question.....


going to dana 60's front and rear....found a set from a 96 f350 with 4.10's and disks ...complete for 950.00.......
the pros-cons with thess particular difs? anything good/bad about them i should know?

any input is appreciated.....




thanks..
still a newbie
pat

sooo.... what R U putting them in:question: SII, 800, :question: Opel, AMC marlin:rasta:

The front diff is on the drivers side.

I'm not sure but a '96 F350 should have the big Ford rear end not a D60?

"FORD 10.25-INCH"
"Ford's biggest axle comes with semi-floating shafts in 1983-and-newer F-250s, and as a full-floater in F-250HDs and F-350s."

:rolleyes:

FORD front diffs are on the wrong side for a SII, or Scout for that matter. Guess you can run a divorced Ford t/c and have the diff problem fixed.

$950 is a good price for a complete set of one ton axles.... :mad3:

:D Congrats..

:flipoff2:

I doubt the rear is a 60, unless someone swapped it in. Should be a big ass Sterling

before you get all worried...the rear sterling isn't bad, it just has limited gears, lockers, etc...same as a 14 bolt.

The front will be a ball joint 60 I think. This means that you need to have the knuckles machined like a 44 to accept any highsteer arms.

And you can swap sides on the dif, but this requires some money....

I agree with SD about the sterling not being a bad axle, other than gear selection it is a BETTER choice than a 60 rear, its stouter anyway.

Originally posted by Scout Dude

The front will be a ball joint 60 I think. This means that you need to have the knuckles machined like a 44 to accept any highsteer arms.


I don't see how the ball joint front 60 will accept a high steer arm; the stock knuckle does not look like it has enough room on top to mount an arm?

thanks fellas.

what R U putting them in
72 SII

i guess i could swap sides for the front...a bit of a hassle.

in which trucks can i find a front d60 that i would be able to use without swapping sides?

also... anyone currently running a sterling?

which 60 would be the "optimal" for swapping into my sII?
thanks
pat

Originally posted by patstanley
thanks fellas.




which 60 would be the "optimal" for swapping into my sII?
thanks
pat

80's GM will bolt right in :D
.
.
.
.if your tape measure doesnt have 32nd's on it... thats a joke HAHA
.
.
. I would run that HP60 however... if i had it:D

:rolleyes:

Dodge and Chevy has the pumpkins on the correct side for the front. Not sure of the optimum years....just make sure the 60 is an open knuckle...dually 60's can work once you turn the hub off...

Maybe you should keep that matched set and just run a divorced transfer case with a driver side drop :eek: for dual t/c's and a beefy drivetrain....that's what I would do...

HTH

:flipoff2:

THIS IS WEAK. YOU HAVE A LINE ON A HIGH PINION D60 FOR A GOOD PRICE AND YOU AREN'T GETTING IT BECAUSE IT'S DRIVERS SIDE DROP? JUST DO A LITTLE FABRICATION AND MAKE IT INTO WHAT YOU NEED.

BTW: THE PROBLEM WITH THE LATE MODEL FORD D60'S IS THAT THE PUMKIN IS WAY TOO CLOSE TO THE KNUCKLE. EARLY FORD D60'S HAD A 31 INCH SPRING SPACING ABOUT THE SAME AS SCOUTS, BUT LATE MODELS HAVE A 36 INCH GAP BETWEEN THE SPRINGS.

Originally posted by Hammerlock
THIS IS WEAK. YOU HAVE A LINE ON A HIGH PINION D60 FOR A GOOD PRICE AND YOU AREN'T GETTING IT BECAUSE IT'S DRIVERS SIDE DROP? JUST DO A LITTLE FABRICATION AND MAKE IT INTO WHAT YOU NEED.

BTW: THE PROBLEM WITH THE LATE MODEL FORD D60'S IS THAT THE PUMKIN IS WAY TOO CLOSE TO THE KNUCKLE. EARLY FORD D60'S HAD A 31 INCH SPRING SPACING ABOUT THE SAME AS SCOUTS, BUT LATE MODELS HAVE A 36 INCH GAP BETWEEN THE SPRINGS.

So what "little fabbing" is going to switch a D-drop to a P-drop axle??

Originally posted by The Mick


So what "little fabbing" is going to switch a D-drop to a P-drop axle??

That's what I was wondering :confused: :shaking: :rolleyes:

I think that HAMMER meant that you first have to fab up the BONG that is required to envision...

Then try to move the diff over...Too much work man.:eek:

yea...i'd rather not spend 5 bills on a front diff only to rip it completely apart... fabbing up some spring mounts is fine...but ripping the housing completely apart is not what im lookng to do.

i've got a friend who happens to be a seargent at the local PD.... he's got his eye out for a repo-ed 1 ton truck for me. hopefully something with a few more useful parts will show up.

thanks for all the advice.
pat

This is supposed to be a hard core forum. Not a forum for a bunch of mall-queens who need bolt-on kits. Maybe you guys should hang out at binderbulletin.org. :flipoff2:

I guess it's all relative. What's a minor to job to some is not easy for others.

For those of you who have to ask:

http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2000/hpd44front/hpd44front.cfm

Originally posted by Harvester of Sorrow
Then try to move the diff over...Too much work man.:eek:

Fawk me! Run a 727 to a 203/205 doubler with drivers drop. For $1000.00 (or cheaper if you do the work) you will get 4:1. if you really need 60's don't you think you are going to break that rear output on the D20?? with a doubler you have a 1ton case to match your bolt in 1 ton axle and you can step up to 1350 or 1410s at both yokes. if yer gonna be a pussy stick with yer d44 :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by troutbum


Fawk me! Run a 727 to a 203/205 doubler with drivers drop. For $1000.00 (or cheaper if you do the work) you will get 4:1. if you really need 60's don't you think you are going to break that rear output on the D20?? with a doubler you have a 1ton case to match your bolt in 1 ton axle and you can step up to 1350 or 1410s at both yokes. if yer gonna be a pussy stick with yer d44 :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Good idea if he can grind into the diff enough to move the driver side spring perch over a couple of inches. Scout springs are narrower then Ford's which will help.

Originally posted by troutbum


Fawk me! Run a 727 to a 203/205 doubler with drivers drop. For $1000.00 (or cheaper if you do the work) you will get 4:1. if you really need 60's don't you think you are going to break that rear output on the D20?? with a doubler you have a 1ton case to match your bolt in 1 ton axle and you can step up to 1350 or 1410s at both yokes. if yer gonna be a pussy stick with yer d44 :flipoff2: :flipoff2: I agree with troutbum,go with offroad designs doubler kit, who cares what side the pumpkin's on, go with the ford, the price is right:D

sounds like a plan.... i'll have to see how much i can / need to grind.

time to research the 203/205.....

i'd like to get all the parts and plans together now, so in sept when i get off of school, i can rip the fawker apart and start from the ground up...again.



...see other post on 203/205 doubler if you've got any experience in that area....

pat

[QUOTE]Originally posted by patstanley
[B]sounds like a plan.... i'll have to see how much i can / need to grind.

time to research the 203/205.....

i'd like to get all the parts and plans together now, so in sept when i get off of school, i can rip the fawker apart and start from the ground up...again.



...see other post on 203/205 doubler if you've got any experience in that area....

grind? grind what? just run a ford 205, leave the axle alone:D

Originally posted by harkinoff


grind? grind what? just run a ford 205, leave the axle alone:D [/B]

Pay attention newbie. ;) The spring perches on this D60 aren't in the same location as the Scout II.

Originally posted by harkinoff
move the fawkin springs, its not hard, well maybe for some:flipoff2:

You could do that. However, that will put the springs too close to the wheels. You won't be able to run large tires and make tight turns without the tires hitting the springs. Understand?

Originally posted by Hammerlock


You could do that. However, that will put the springs too close to the wheels. You won't be able to run large tires and make tight turns without the tires hitting the springs. Understand? my bad!! I didn't know that ford changed there spring perches to 36.5" widths, is that right?