I was installing a set of Bobby's Super BF's into a customers truck today along with an ARB, and remembered the thread a couple of days ago about not needing the tack, on lockers with a cross pin. With an ARB you for sure need the tack or the inner will go far enough inside the ARB to go past the seal.
Here's a shot of the tack.
Butch

nice......boggers, give me WOOD :D :smokin:

Originally posted by texican
With an ARB you for sure need the tack or the inner will go far enough inside the ARB to go past the seal.
Here's a shot of the tack.
Butch

Butch,

I was throwing my axles back in today so that I can get the axle over to my buddy's shop to complete my SR/SO. I'll be running the ARB up front, when it comes, so I guess I will need the tack. Question, I read that the tack is measured a particualr dist. from the end, and I have also read that it is tacked outside the shiny part of the splines. I understand the idea both ways, which is MORE correct? I'll do the tack after I get my ARB and have to take the axle apart again anyway.

Also, I'm having a difficult time getting the short side to slide into the diff, the long side goes in fine, and the short side slides into the diff easily enough with the diff out. Also, with the diff out, I can slide the short axle shaft/birf in with no problem. What gives? Any idea Its holding up my front from being complete (except for ARB).

Thanks

If the tack is not put on 1 1/2" from the end it will slide in too far and it will not ride on the seal.......it's really easy to check this since you don't have the BF's installed with the clip. simply slide the axle in until it bottoms out (hint : metallic clunk), and look at the seal mine were in too far, they were in the groove sext to the really smooth shiny section.
I have ran into this problem a couple of times, one solution is easy, the other you ain't gonna like.
Substitute another axle, chances are it's tweaked a bit....did it come out hard? (Damn that sounds bad)
The other time I ran into this was on the axle housing I bent jumping Yeller, on the side it was bent (long), we had to take the knuckle off and pry the Birfield out, it was so tight it came loose from the axle, then the axle slid right out.
Not to say either of these is your problem, just what I have found.
Butch

Originally posted by texican
Substitute another axle, chances are it's tweaked a bit....did it come out hard? (Damn that sounds bad)


Thanks Butch, Looks like I'll have to tear down my 75 front with drums that I was hoping to sell whole. Oh well!!:(

You mean you don't have a spare axle laying around or a buddie with one you could borrow?
I think every member in our wacky bunch has spares in the backs of our trucks......
Look here, he has some listed often I have bought from him, and James Valley in NH. One of the best things to have is good friends in the rust belt for parts.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1839361840
I try to keep a couple of extras of each variation at the shop, saves tons of time........time=$$$$$$
Butch

Originally posted by texican
You mean you don't have a spare axle laying around or a buddie with one you could borrow?
I think every member in our wacky bunch has spares in the backs of our trucks......


Well no!! No yet. Even though I've shed the "newbie" title on the POR board, I'm still very much a newbie. :p


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1839361840

Hehe, had that one bookmarked already!!:D

I do have a buddy that is doing a weird set up using some sort of chevy axle that he is gonna machine to fit a 40 axle housing, that will have U joint and not a birf. Maybe he has an extra set of inners! I did give him a good 4spd trannie and tcase, guage cluster and speedo cable from the truck I just parted out!

Thanks

Thanks Butch, Looks like I'll have to tear down my 75 front with drums that I was hoping to sell whole. Oh well!!
Sean,

I buy the drum front ends for the inner axles and sh*tcan the rest.(I Do keep the housings and steering arms though for a S/O in the future or for sale...) I have about four sets now. Got my last three axles(complete) for a total of $30.00

Is the "MD11" of the "MD11fr8dog" name the type of aircraft you fly for FedEx??? Just curious...

-Brett

Originally posted by cruiserbrett

Sean,

I buy the drum front ends for the inner axles and sh*tcan the rest.(I Do keep the housings and steering arms though for a S/O in the future or for sale...) I have about four sets now. Got my last three axles(complete) for a total of $30.00

So you're saying that my 75 front axle is worth $10??;)


Is the "MD11" of the "MD11fr8dog" name the type of aircraft you fly for FedEx??? Just curious...


-Brett

Yep, :smokin: http://home.off-road.com/~md11fr8dog/Graphics/MD11.jpg

Originally posted by BJ On Roids
nice......boggers, give me WOOD :D :smokin:

Enjoy...
http://www.nctacomas.com/eskimo/bogger.jpg

Sean -

If it won't go in with the diff in, make sure you try to put it in while turning the pinion flange. One trick I use since my wife wouldn't help me with my rig if my life depended on it, is to use my foot on the driveshaft or pinion flange to jiggle it while I am pushing down and in on the birf.

Butch could be right, but I think he is assuming you know all the other tricks and have exhausted them. :flipoff2: NEWBIE :flipoff2:

HTH,

Jim:D

I'm with TLC on this, especially since he can slide the axle into the side gears out of the axle.

Rotate the pinion flange or driveshaft so the side gears turn a little. Slide it in and move on. May require locking the other hub and stopping that axle from turning. Leave the arb OPEN.

Never force an inner axle into the side gears!

Originally posted by TLCObsession
Sean -

If it won't go in with the diff in, make sure you try to put it in while turning the pinion flange. One trick I use since my wife wouldn't help me with my rig if my life depended on it, is to use my foot on the driveshaft or pinion flange to jiggle it while I am pushing down and in on the birf.

Butch could be right, but I think he is assuming you know all the other tricks and have exhausted them. :flipoff2: NEWBIE :flipoff2:

HTH,

Jim:D

Yep, I tried that, I had to do that to get the long side in. I could "feel" the splines when doing the long side, but not on the short side!!

Oh and thanks!!:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by SpaceGhost
I'm with TLC on this, especially since he can slide the axle into the side gears out of the axle.

Rotate the pinion flange or driveshaft so the side gears turn a little. Slide it in and move on. May require locking the other hub and stopping that axle from turning. Leave the arb OPEN.

Never force an inner axle into the side gears!

No ARB yet, no hubs on yet and what driveshaft???:D

So you're saying that my 75 front axle is worth $10??

Nope...just that I got lucky I guess. I wanted one and found three, so I kept the housings, thirds and inner axle shafts...

Speaking of that anyone need a 4.11 third member??? Got one to sell...$50/ea plus shipping.

-Brett

Originally posted by cruiserbrett


Nope...just that I got lucky I guess. I wanted one and found three, so I kept the housings, thirds and inner axle shafts...

Speaking of that anyone need a 4.11 third member??? Got one to sell...$50/ea plus shipping.

-Brett

Maybe I'll just break down the 75 front axle and sell the birfs and brake stuff, and keep the diff and inners!! Same with my 76 spare rear axle. Nothing like having two spare 4.11 diffs!! :D I'm keeping my 76 birfs and warn hubs as trail spares!!

I'll get that choke cable, air rail, and nozzles out today or tomorrow, you'll see them by Tue, but what about the otehr stuff - distributer and something else? Just make a reasonable offer, hit my PayPal, and I'll ship it out. That should be between $5-10 shipping for the dist.

Sean

Originally posted by texican
Substitute another axle, chances are it's tweaked a bit....did it come out hard? (Damn that sounds bad)

Butch,

That's what I did. I broke down the 75 axle and grabbed the short side inner. Slid it in without the birf, it went in fine, then I pulled it out and put the birf on and tried again!! Bingo, it went. I looked at the splines on the inner I first tried and they looked a little boogered on the ends, just barely enough to keep the splines from meshing. Not sure if I did it (though I didn't try to force the shaft at all) or if the PO did. In any case, I'll take it to my buddy at the local machine shop and have him clean up the splines for me so its useable again.

Thanks for the help. The axle is complete now, finally, just waiting to be broken down again next month to get the ARB done!:)

Have a good weekend!:beer:

I would still bet the axle is bent, not the splines, on the one I had so much hell with, my driveshaft guy chucked it up in his lathe, and it had several thousands of runout. I have cleaned splines up on the trail with the file out of my Leatherman.....they don't seem to have to be perfect, cause I can't make them that way with a Leatherman!!
:D :flipoff2:
Butch

Originally posted by cruiserbrett


Speaking of that anyone need a 4.11 third member??? Got one to sell...$50/ea plus shipping.

-Brett

Hey Brett,
I could use a spare third member, especially with a 4sp pinion flange. I can probably come pick it up too.

email me if you want to do it.
Charlie

Originally posted by texican
I would still bet the axle is bent, not the splines, on the one I had so much hell with, my driveshaft guy chucked it up in his lathe, and it had several thousands of runout. I have cleaned splines up on the trail with the file out of my Leatherman.....they don't seem to have to be perfect, cause I can't make them that way with a Leatherman!!
:D :flipoff2:
Butch

I tried to clean mine up a little with a file from my toolbox. I'll have my buddy turn mine and see.

I have a picture on my laptop of the 76 I just tore down where I'm standing in front of the carnage holding up my Leatherman as if I did the tear down with that! :D

Originally posted by Eskimo


Enjoy...
http://www.nctacomas.com/eskimo/bogger.jpg

yeah nice...thanks

hey got any more pics of your front bar work?