okay i would like too beef up the drive shafts and u-joints as well what would be the strongest splicer u-joint too run,

the biggest one you can afford . . . . .more specs are needed, as what do you have for a driveline and why do you need to upgrade.

79 ford f350 60 front,460 10.1 cr,4x4 cam 429cj heads,c6 auto stage 2 shift kit vaule body, 205np,60 rear,40 inch boggers,gears are 5.19

Okay, that answers half the question. Are you breaking drive shafts? Why do you want to go stronger?

1410 are the "common" big size. go with sealed not greasable.

if it's trail only 1/4 inch wall drive shafts are the biggest made. but unless you are using the shaft to slide over rocks it's overkill.

who knows what size joints he already has? don't ford one tons have 1410 in the rear already?

1410 or toyota u-joints for the drivelines.

CTMs or longfield 60's for the axle.

I have a buddy that runs two grade 5 bolts at the axle yoke. Prevents lots of major breakage, just carries extra bolts. Easy to get to and replace.

Just my .03...

I run 1450's. They seem to be pretty big.

haven't heard of 1450's, 1350's/1410 (same strength just one allows more angle), and 1480's and bigger, unless its a bastard joint of some sorts.

1410 are the "common" big size. go with sealed not greasable.

if it's trail only 1/4 inch wall drive shafts are the biggest made. but unless you are using the shaft to slide over rocks it's overkill.

who knows what size joints he already has? don't ford one tons have 1410 in the rear already?

hey dicksmack

explain to me why a "sealed" universal joint is superior to a "greasable"

1410s would be the strongest, most common u-joint you can find. You'd have to get a custom made driveshaft, and get new yokes. what size joints does it have in it now? I'm guessing probably only 1330s.

If you go with 1410s, your next weak point would be your 60 rear. It's a good axle, though most consider it to be pretty weak compared to the other full floating axles out there like the d70, sterling, 14 bolt, etc, you might want to look into upgrading the rear too. Then again, the idiot who had my truck before me ran 44's on a stock rear 60 and beat the living hell out of it and never broke anything....

hey dicksmack

explain to me why a "sealed" universal joint is superior to a "greasable"

Greaseable u-joints are cross-drilled for the grease passages, which takes alot of meat out of the cross. A good quality sealed u-joint has a solid cross which makes it considerably stronger.

The truck probably has 1330 series joints stock, maybe 1350 series. If it is 1350 series, the first thing I would do would be put some Spicer 'life series' solid u-joints in it and see how they do, it probably has greaseable u-joints in it now if I had to guess. If it has 1330 series, swap up to 1350, with solid joints, I doubt you'll need more.

The 5.13 gears take a lot of the stress off the drive shafts. I agree the 1350's are probably big enough. Are you busting u-joints, or do you just want to get it ready to drive harder. If you can afford the beefier shafts too, then the cost of changing yokes and joints is not that much difference between the 1350's and the 1410's, so now would be the time to decide if you want to go all the way. If you are going to stay with the stock shaft style, I'd say 1350 is all you need.

Nongreaseable joints will not outlast greaseable joints in the mud and water, i have not had any luck with them lasting any longer, i say mud cause from the sounds of the truck it seems that this is what it will be used for, but if not correct me if i'm wrong.

Nongreaseable joints will not outlast greaseable joints in the mud and water, i have not had any luck with them lasting any longer, i say mud cause from the sounds of the truck it seems that this is what it will be used for, but if not correct me if i'm wrong.

I agree with this completely, however I did not mention it as it seemed his primary goal was strength and I didn't want to confuse him. I swapped the u-joint at the axle end of my rear d-shaft (which is the one always taking the brunt of the mud/water) for a 1350 greaseable setup over the 1330 solid I was running. I only broke one cross with the 1330, but I would eat the caps out of them all the time due to mud/water intrusion. My though was a 1350 greaseable would be about the same strength as a 1330 solid, time will tell I guess.

Greaseable u-joints are cross-drilled for the grease passages, which takes alot of meat out of the cross. A good quality sealed u-joint has a solid cross which makes it considerably stronger.
.

i know how a 'greasable' u joint is constructed but thanks for the stupified explanation. I disagree with the loss of strength by cross drilling but thats another topic. Any moving part should be greased and be able to be re-greased so you don't wear parts out.

Bottom line the best advice for driveline yokes is to run at least a 1350 series and if more angle is needed then step up to 1410 series

I have been running 1410 non greaseable solid trunin (or cross)for years.
but I did drill holes and install grease fittings in the center of each cap.
wort fer me!!!!:beer: In my 79 bogger.

i know how a 'greasable' u joint is constructed but thanks for the stupified explanation. I disagree with the loss of strength by cross drilling but thats another topic. Any moving part should be greased and be able to be re-greased so you don't wear parts out.

Bottom line the best advice for driveline yokes is to run at least a 1350 series and if more angle is needed then step up to 1410 series

How do you not agree that removing material would make it weaker? Thats just stupid.

If greasing them is such a big deal, drill holes in the caps and install grease fittings. Or take them out once in awhile, put a dab of grease in the caps, and reinstall.

How do you not agree that removing material would make it weaker? Thats just stupid..

like i said it's the same argument of solid vs. hollow

If greasing them is such a big deal, drill holes in the caps and install grease fittings. Or take them out once in awhile, put a dab of grease in the caps, and reinstall.

or hey here's an idea:cookie:

just buy greasable u joints

and if your still tossin u-joints than step up to a larger size, assuming there is no axle wrap or stupid angles.

like i said it's the same argument of solid vs. hollow



or hey here's an idea:cookie:

just buy greasable u joints

and if your still tossin u-joints than step up to a larger size, assuming there is no axle wrap or stupid angles.

Lets make it easy for you to understand choad breath.

Which would be stronger, 1" poop pipe or 1" solid rod? You have 20 seconds.

Lets make it easy for you to understand choad breath.

Which would be stronger, 1" poop pipe or 1" solid rod? You have 20 seconds.

ya, your right

he should just run some 1330 non greasables, they will be much stronger compared to a greasable 1410 series joints/yokes:laughing:

if you want strength go bigger

ya, your right

he should just run some 1330 non greasables, they will be much stronger compared to a greasable 1410 series joints/yokes:laughing:

if you want strength go bigger

Its easy for you to say that when you aren't the one buying all new yokes/d-shafts for his truck (1410=$$$). :shaking:

Its much cheaper to try going from a 1350 greaseable to non greaseable (no changing yokes, etc), or even swaping up to 1350 from 1330, still using OEM parts often times.

Your rear 60 should be blowing before 1330's are if you have 5.38's.

Its easy for you to say that when you aren't the one buying all new yokes/d-shafts for his truck (1410=$$$). :shaking:

Its much cheaper to try going from a 1350 greaseable to non greaseable (no changing yokes, etc), or even swaping up to 1350 from 1330, still using OEM parts often times.

Exactly. Not one person said a 1330 non greasable is stronger than a 1410. But it IS stronger than a greasable 1330

A 1350 non greasable should hold up to all that that 60 will.

Its easy for you to say that when you aren't the one buying all new yokes/d-shafts for his truck (1410=$$$). :shaking:

i have shelled out the cash to get 1410 everything and it does cost alot of coin but well worth it for the peace of mind knowing you just elimated a weak link in your drivetrain that most people overlook when building a truck.

79 ford f350 60 front,460 10.1 cr,4x4 cam 429cj heads,c6 auto stage 2 shift kit vaule body, 205np,60 rear,40 inch boggers,gears are 5.19

if you look at what the OP has said about his setup it doesn't look like he is afraid to spend a little money and the extra strength will be needed especially with a bigblock behind everything.

non greaseable is junk parts. if it moves it needs lube. end of story.
you gain nothing in strength from losing the lube paths.

non greaseable is junk parts. if it moves it needs lube. end of story.
you gain nothing in strength from losing the lube paths.


after building drivelines for a few years, I gotta say every fricken greasable u-joint out there is plain junk in the light duty truck realm. The machining of the spicer life series u-joints over greasable is by far better.

OEM's put in non servicable u-joints and most are typically going 100k plus before needing any type of new u-joints.

Your not going to put in a greasable u-joint and only grease it once and go 100k plus out of them.

a fordged peice is going to be stronger than a the cast peice of crap that all greasable u-joints are made from.

non greaseable is junk parts. if it moves it needs lube. end of story.
you gain nothing in strength from losing the lube paths.I'm sure that is true for driving to the mall and back.... A u-joint that sees a lot of street miles.


I've bought a greaseable because that is all I could find on short notice. Lasted 3 hours on the trail and snapped right down the greaseable input hole.

It's Spicer Life non-greaseable for all my U-joints. (So, if "non greaseable is junk parts" why does Spicer sell them?) It's too late to pull out the facts...
So Newbie, yes you MJ, just search the Spicer expert site on pictures, failure.

Greaseable u-joints are cross-drilled for the grease passages, which takes alot of meat out of the cross. A good quality sealed u-joint has a solid cross which makes it considerably stronger.

The truck probably has 1330 series joints stock, maybe 1350 series. If it is 1350 series, the first thing I would do would be put some Spicer 'life series' solid u-joints in it and see how they do, it probably has greaseable u-joints in it now if I had to guess. If it has 1330 series, swap up to 1350, with solid joints, I doubt you'll need more.

Non-greasable joints are drilled as well, they just have no hole for the zerk. Holes in the trunions, no big deal. A hole in the cross for the grease zerk...that can add some weakness.

The reason the greasable joints are not as strong is because having the a hole drilled there reduces the size of the cross sectional area.

σ = F/A

σ = stress
F= force
A= cross sectional area

You reduce the area you increase the stress. Stress breaks things.

Want a fawking biscuit...:homer:

This thread has been dead since 07 genius.:shaking:

I would rather have a driveshaft u-joint as a fuseable link cause they are easy to replace and saves the carnage from your more $$$$ driveline parts. Like your pinion or t-case output shaft.

The reason the greasable joints are not as strong is because having the a hole drilled there reduces the size of the cross sectional area.

σ = F/A

σ = stress
F= force
A= cross sectional area

You reduce the area you increase the stress. Stress breaks things.

very slight difference in strength in gun drilling a shaft
huge difference in strength between something full of rust vs something spinning in clean lube
easy test, drain the oil from your engine and see if it lasts as long as with oil in the pan

if you are breaking ujoints you need to look at why and I doubt it is the greasenipple causing the issue.
greaseable Spicer lifes are available for most of the lineup, just not d44s last i looked

very slight difference in strength in gun drilling a shaft
huge difference in strength between something full of rust vs something spinning in clean lube
easy test, drain the oil from your engine and see if it lasts as long as with oil in the pan

if you are breaking ujoints you need to look at why and I doubt it is the greasenipple causing the issue.
greaseable Spicer lifes are available for most of the lineup, just not d44s last i looked

Gun drilled shafts have nothing to do with this argument. They are loaded in a completly different direction. When something is in torsion like a shaft, you can gun drill them because the center has little to do with the strength of the part. the stress is all in the outer portion of the shaft. a U joint isnt loaded like a shaft is so removing a section of it will affect its strength.

And I thought Id never have to use the stuff I learned in strength of materials. :flipoff2:

If you want to know why they are weaker thats why take it or leave it.

If they are made from the same material and have the same deminsions, but one has a hole threw it, it is weaker. there is no question there. By how much? I don't know, give me a blue print for each one and I'll try to figure it out.

And I thought Id never have to use the stuff I learned in strength of materials. :flipoff2:


What the point of knowing all this shit no one will believe you anyways. :)

What the point of knowing all this shit no one will believe you anyways. :)

the non greaseable have hollow trunnions almost the same as the greaseables
sometimes they have far less material then a greaseable and try and claim it is a "lube well"
plenty of pulverized until powdered non greaseables have a full "lube well" but not a drop of lube at the rollers where it should be

if there is any doubt on strenth in a non grease and a greasable
put some greasables in for steering axle joints and see how far you get.

if there is any doubt on strenth in a non grease and a greasable
put some greasables in for steering axle joints and see how far you get.

I use greaseable spicer life, spl55-4x IIRC

if they were available for a d44 I would use them but last I looked no luck
the steering u joints exceed the stock shaft strength, so you aint breaking them before shaft issues happen most of the time

steering joints are the most important place for greaseables as they are such a bitch to change

wow i started drama a year and a half ago.

i stand by my opinions. of course maintenance is a consideration for everyone. but this guy didn't ask about that. "me want strong" so shafts in sheer are stronger without holes drilled in them. yes you will have to replace them more often. does this make them weaker, no. does this make them more expensive, yes. does this make them more of a pain in the ass? well if your junk rusts together before the joints wear out then you have to replace the yokes as well as the joints.