1992 F350 front axle (Dana 60)

Driver drop. Balljoints not kingpin.

Axle has been rebuilt, all new bearings and seals. New rotors.

Problem - there is about 80 thou of movement of the brake rotor. During the rebuild I thought this might be a warped brake rotor, but the problem remains with brand new rotors.

During the rebuild, the bearing race within the hub (larger bearing, not the outer bearing) showed 4 distinct impressions from the roller bearings. I know the donor vehicle was in an accident, so assumed the bearing damage was from that accident.

As I mentioned, all new bearings, seals and brake rotors. If I swap the "bad" hub/rotor assembly with the hub/rotor from the other side - problem solved.

So I am assuming I am dealing with a bent hub, not a bent spindle. Does that sound correct???

The only original parts are the hub, spindle, knuckle, and axle housing. Everything else is new.

Suggestions appreciated.

Also suggestions as to buying a new hub, or new hub and spindle. (Ford 5 bolt spindles). I am in Colorado so would use Drive Train Industries, but even with a BOM number for them, they are not able to locate what I need. And so far I have not had much luck locating a used version.

Suggestions or idea's??

thanks in advance

sounds like a hub to me - if it was a spindle then there would be no run out - just out of plane - just get a hub - id try napa - or a local parts store- might be cheaper

Neither Napa or Carquest carry the hubs anymore. And getting the local dealer for Dana to get a price has been impossible.

I have sourced a used hub from Denver through Used 4 x 4 Parts here in Ft Collins. Would have preferred new, but I'll take whatever I can get.

I found this...

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-11704_dana_60_spindle.htm

Might want to double check the measurements to make sure its the right one.

I found this...

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-11704_dana_60_spindle.htm

Might want to double check the measurements to make sure its the right one.

Bookmarked, thanks.

A note of interest. The hubs and spindles are largely interchangeable, even between the Dana 50 (later year F250's) and Dana 60. However, some Dana 60 stuff is different, depending on whether the F350 was SRW or dually. I am guessing, the offset is changed so the DRW wheels could fit.

Bob Schleppy at Used 4 x 4 parts is an incredible resource, he must a photographic memory.

thanks again for the link, I hope the newly ordered used hub will do the trick, but if not, I will be headed to the Bronco graveyard site.

Final feedback.

Hub arrived, stripped, painted, bearings installed, and assembly onto spindle.

Problem solved, guilty part was the hub. Even with close inspection now, I cannot see or measure where the hub was bent.

thanks to all who offered advice.

quicky:


when i have bought rotors, sometimes they come with the spindles, installed bearing races, studs AND the rotor. that may have been and option for you as well.

Final feedback.

Hub arrived, stripped, painted, bearings installed, and assembly onto spindle.

Problem solved, guilty part was the hub. Even with close inspection now, I cannot see or measure where the hub was bent.

thanks to all who offered advice.

Are you sure it might not have just been that one of the bearing outer races(cups) wasn't seated fully in its recess in the hub? Or maybe some trash got behind it when they were driving the new one in? I think I'd check that just to see if that's the case since it sounds like you can't see any bend in the flange. Sorry I didn't think of that before you bought the new hub if that's it, but at least you will know now(and still have a spare hub). If you paid someone to do it, maybe you could show then what they did and recoup some of your money for the new hub.

Are you sure it might not have just been that one of the bearing outer races(cups) wasn't seated fully in its recess in the hub? Or maybe some trash got behind it when they were driving the new one in? I think I'd check that just to see if that's the case since it sounds like you can't see any bend in the flange. Sorry I didn't think of that before you bought the new hub if that's it, but at least you will know now(and still have a spare hub). If you paid someone to do it, maybe you could show then what they did and recoup some of your money for the new hub.

Good suggestion.

I noticed the runout before I stripped the axle. Initially I thought it may have been a warped rotor. I was also noticed the large bearing race was damaged when I stripped the hub. And made sure everything was clean before re-assembly with new bearings, so I was pretty certain it was not just dirt or a poorly seated bearing race.

Good suggestion.

I noticed the runout before I stripped the axle. Initially I thought it may have been a warped rotor. I was also noticed the large bearing race was damaged when I stripped the hub. And made sure everything was clean before re-assembly with new bearings, so I was pretty certain it was not just dirt or a poorly seated bearing race.

Then I would take it to where they turn rotors and let them spin it for you to see where its bent just to solve the mystery. The only thing that could make the rotor run out would be a bent flange, and you should see that. Unless of course it was machined off center to start with and no one ever cuaght it till you did.

been there had that happen too. rotor was cut off center and ended up a brazillion with runout :rolleyes:

Then I would take it to where they turn rotors and let them spin it for you to see where its bent just to solve the mystery. The only thing that could make the rotor run out would be a bent flange, and you should see that. Unless of course it was machined off center to start with and no one ever cuaght it till you did.

That could well be the case. With the original ford calipers you may not have even noticed or bothered about the runout. But when I put the Wilwoods on, and had to fab the mounting brackets, it became obvious pretty quick. If I am noticing 80 thou of runout at the edge of the rotor, I would guess there may only be 40 thou at the hub.

My guess is the flange is bent, I know the donor truck did two rolls during the accident that totalled the truck. And the damaged race is further evidence.

Interesting question - if you could measure the amount of runout at the hub, could you shim the inside races appropriately in that sector of the hub to correct it? I know, I know, red neck POS fix, and I would only consider it temporary, but I was wondering if it would work?

Fortunately I found a used hub that works.

No, you would not want to shim the bearing races. They must be seated firmly and squarely in the hub to work properly, and to keep the main body of the hub on center. The fact that the flange is bent also means that it has been weakened, and even if you could find the hollow spot and firm it up so the rotor didn't warp when you tightened it up, I still would not use it. Furthermore, the reality of countering the runout in any fashion to get a true running hub or rotor would be an exhaustive and futile effort to get it as precise as you would need for it to be useable again. That piece belongs in the garbage.