I am thinking about wristing this arm I built but I wanted input on what might be the best way to go. Would you want to do it behind the shock piviots or would that lose strength at that point?

I would do it where you angled it to clear your 38's. That is the weak spot anyways, so why not gusset it and wrist it there? By the way that shock set up is TRICK! 17 inches should be enought!:D

Magoo,
Thanks for the reply, That is were I saw fit to do it but I still have not yet figured out just how I would do it. How would the pivot and lock set up be, and is it really a good spot to put at the bend or just behind, just in front of???

I'ld keep it either at the bend or behind the bend, infront of the bend would cause bindage. I also think that having the bend that far back will give you some troubles.
(say wristed on Pass. side) Driver side goes up twisting pinion downward, so the radii arm(on Dr. side) is going to point downwards till the pivot. Pivot is a ways back. The more V'ed the arm gets the shorter it gets, its gunna pull the wristed side of the axle back. And the frame side of the arm is gonin to 'pull' up at the wrist (defeating its purpose). Thats Y the "wrist" should be as close to the C-clamp as possible.
But Damb those arms look flash!
Just my 2 bits.

I agree that you want the wrist to be as close to the c as possible. If you put it out past the shocks I don't think it will work right.

BTW, given that those are already extended, if you wrist them as well you will need all the shock you can get. Are you sure you have enough spring to take advantage of that much movement? I have the Wild Horses 5.5" lift springs and I damn near max them out with a 9012 and a wristed arm.

Kick assed work man.

-Jack

Do you really need to wrist it? My dad has 12" longer arms on his EB and he gets plenty of articulation with it. The way you built your arms, it looks like a difficult project with (probably) not much benefit IMO.

I'd remove the wedges from the axle tube on the side you want to wrist and use a tube on the arm that has the I.D. of the axle tube thats split and tightens around the axle tube like the original arm did around the wedges so it is free to move when you loosen it, maybe make the tube bigger so you can wrap a piece of 1/4" sheet rubber around the axle tube in between the axle & pc. of tubing on the arm for a bushing, and then weld two tear droped shaped pieces of 1/4" plate to the axle tube on each side of the arm with the tips pointing back and run a pin threw from plate to plate threw the arm you made to lock it, and the 1/4" plates on each side will keep it from traveling side to side.
Not my idea just an idea I saw used on a set of stock E.B. arms that where bent for more tire clearance and one of them was wristed like this. Hope this makes sense. Later, Tonto.

the best way?

Sell those are that you have.
bend a stock arm, Brace them, then wrist it
The only way to wrist that arm is a total re desgin, making the 2 tubes connect at the C's with a heim, they need to be seprate too, no bracing them gether.
Then add a sliding mount on the top of it.

Thanks for the ideas, it sounds possible to do it right behind the C. No I don't need it just want it! and yes I have enough shock for it 17 1/4" of travel and as far as the 5.5" springs go I would have drop outs built in. Yes this is way to much work to do for someone but I do it all my self. It is my way to get rid of stress caused by people I deal with durring the course of the average day. Let me know if this set up looks at all like it would work (if you can see it). I do not want to get rid of the arms and I think with a removable piece in the top of the arm to let it flex and then replace to drive on the street. What do you all think?

I think that would work......

Remember the arm needs to pivot equally in both directions. The way you have your pin setup, it looks like it could only break away in one direction.

Can't you center the pivot on the "C" vertically? Basically like a standard wristed arm?

definately want the pivot as close to the axle as possible

Just to be clear, the wristed arm needs to be opposite side of the diff. Otherwise your driveshaft won't be very happy.

Nobody, Yes it would open and close the v gap to flex. I would have around 3-4" for the V to close and then it can open as far as needed. Also it would be going on the pass side. I could also put the pivot in the center just as easy and still build the removable like the same. Do you think the like design will work ok to "pin it"?

I think I see what you're getting at.

In your drawing, the arm is in the neutral position? then you would have to actually remove 2 pins and remove a piece of steel? Seems overly complicated to me. Or am I way off?

Nobody, You got it but they would probably just be Quick pins, so not a big deal.

A Canadian named Gary Yortson made a 2-piece D44 axle tube for the passenger side on his 'glass Bronco. The outer part of the tube, including the "C" clamping portion, rotates. Very similar concept to Tonto's.

That would work really well for your current arms.

My .02

Got any pics! I was thinking of a typical set up as well but thought the wrist would be alot less work.

if you are capable of building those arms why dont you just 3 link the thing and be done with it?

Hey rok, one problem I see is there is no shock on the axle so you won't have anything but spring when you flex.

What I was thinking of at the angle was an angled piece of 1" , to match the current angle, coming from the arm and a couple of plates off of the axle side with 1" bolt through. That way you would have your shocks on the axle controlling droop and compression through out the entire range. Being a machinist it's the way I would do it.

"if you are capable of building those arms why dont you just 3 link the thing and be done with it? "

If the wrist does'nt work how I like then 3link is next!



"Hey rok, one problem I see is there is no shock on the axle so you won't have anything but spring when you flex. "


I'm cornfused! What do you mean no shock? Yes in this pic their is not a shock but the system has 17 1/4" worth of them.

I believe he was talking about it being on the other side of the wrist from the axle. Just a guess but, as long as the axle is not allowed to twist (stabilized by the other side) more than the poly gives, it probably would not be a big problem. It would certainly try to fold the wrist though…

the very fact that they feel the need to pin the wrist for street driving tells me it doesnt work as well as it should.
why build a bandaid when you can do it right?

Originally posted by mj
the very fact that they feel the need to pin the wrist for street driving tells me it doesnt work as well as it should.
why build a bandaid when you can do it right?

They work exactly as they should. The ability to pin the arm makes for great street performance, and the ability to remove the pin makes for great offroad performance.

Although I agree that if you're going to modify to that extent, might as well go all the way and 3,4,or 5 link it.

BTW, I can't even notice a difference on the street with the arm un-pinned. In fact if you were to look right now, the pin isn't there. In fact I don't even know where it is. Then again my Bronco II is somewhat lighter than an Early Bronco

Well here are a few shots from today. Got the whole thing back together and it all worked great, But I already seperated the NEW tranny mount.

And more!