Drew a garage using Google Sketch Up. Just want to know what you guys think about it. I need to level the area this winter and hope to start building in spring.

The colored and framed versions are for the city. The other is the original version I built and includes the stairs and plumbing. The city won't know about those. Way too much work to get permits for plumbing and they don't need to know the upstairs will be used for a home gym and storage (again extra cost for city to approve 2 story building). I figure the less the city knows, the better.

Not all of the lumber is drawn (don't beat me up about details) and the dormer is shown with 2 different eves because I'm not sure which way I'm going to go.

I may go with just an 8 foot door instead of the 10 footer because I would never put an RV in there, but was going to do it more for resale. I'll probably frame it (header) for 10 footer, then install the 8x10.

Looking for some opinions. And, no, it can't be any bigger. Wish I new how to make them a jpg so every one can see. You'll need Sketch-up to view these.

Garage Shell (http://home.comcast.net/~stevenjwilliams/StevesGarage(1).skp)

Framed in (http://home.comcast.net/~stevenjwilliams/stevesgarage2.skp)

Colored (http://home.comcast.net/~stevenjwilliams/stevesgaragecolored.skp)

I'd show all the details, the city WILL beat you up over it.

All they really asked me for was a sketch and dimentions of lumber to be used. Not really an architectual drawing. I know there are a few things I need to change, no garage door, man door, or window headers were drawn. I'll probably be printing them soon and taking them to the city to make sure that meets their requirements prior to obtaining a permit. I think they are pretty lax about it, you know, small town and we know the Mayor.

I'll be doing most of the work myself with the help of friends/family (bro in law is a contractor). I drew everything so I could visualize a bit better.

Found a file converter from skp to jpg. Here's a test:

http://home.comcast.net/~stevenjwilliams/stevesgarage2.jpg

Ok, the file is a bit huge, but it will work. The resize function on the software was not very good, plus much smaller and a lot of detail was lost. I have to go to work here in a hour, stay tuned for more pics.

Hope nobody is still using dial-up :eek:

http://home.comcast.net/~stevenjwilliams/stevesgarage1.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~stevenjwilliams/stevesgarage1-2.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~stevenjwilliams/stevesgarage2-2.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~stevenjwilliams/stevesgaragecolored.jpg

I'm fairly certian that 2x6's ain't gonna cut it for the roof lumber, but I don't have my code book handy to tell you for sure. The 8" wood I beams aren't enough, hell a 16" wood I beam only gets you 36' @ 12"o.c. You possibly need to do something about shear on the garage door wall. I'm also not sure if you have enough room for a header on the large door.

I'd also move the stair to a wall, and throw the toilet under that. You also have a lot of windows and doors, while the natural light they let in is great, they are also a very large security concern, and a large expense. Also moving the compressor outside doesn't do much for noise abatement, if you have a door right next to it.

And too much work to get the permits for the plumbing? WTF it's the same damn office as the building permits (at least it is for me). Though you may need a zoning varaince, which is just going in front of your local board with your design and explaining the "need." If you ever want to sell the house get the permits, if you don't get along with any one of your neighbors get the permit. Here I'll even give you all the design changes you'll have to make. You'll need a fire proof door for the stairs, a double layer of drywall around the stairs (facing the garage) and a double layer of drywall on the ceiling.

You are aware you need a header above all wall openings right? Every wall is load bearing. I would suggest picking up a code book, good luck.

Most times, the companies you purchase trusses and I-lams for joist systems will design an engineered package. Not saying what you have in mind won't work, as you haven't included all the details. But why not let them take care of the details, since you are paying for those services anyway? Unless you are planning on going down to the local Menard's or equivalent.

This also cuts down on potential insurance headaches in the case of roof collapse, for example, at a later date. In my area, insurance companies won't cover a roof system that isn't certified, even if an individual copies a certified system.

I like the overall layout of your garage.

This also cuts down on potential insurance headaches in the case of roof collapse, for example, at a later date. In my area, insurance companies won't cover a roof system that isn't certified, even if an individual copies a certified system.

He's building a hip roof not a truss it doesn't have to have an engineers stamp as long as it complies with code. The inspector won't pass a truss roof if it doesn't have an engineers stamp either. Once he passes the inspection then an insurance company has no reason to deny coverage, unless the system is modified without a re-inspection.

With the sloped roof on 4 sides the stairs need to cut in. I think that spot right next to the lift is smart. What I would do is either box in under it or where the yellow cabinet is for the sink and toilet. That or possible slide the stires over to the side (twords the toilet area) and then box it in over there..

Thanks for all the input.

That is a good point about resale as far as permits go for the plumbing. I'll ask about that before assuming it will be a PITA. I have heard you need a variance though, but if that's easy, I'll go that route.

As far as the upstairs is concerned, I'll ask about that. What I wanted to avoid is all kinds of fire code hassles. Hell I wasn't even planning a door into the upstairs (I may later if I smoke it up too much from welding etc). I know codes are there to protect, but in this instance, it's not like it will be an apartment or dwelling of any kind. There'll probably be a tread mill, bow flex and shelving for some of our 'crap'.

The stairs are where they are because as mentioned before, hip roof, so you can't go up a wall. Stairs are also located between the bays because if it were infront of the 16 foot door, it would be hard to work on a car having to negotiate the stairs.

I'll get busy drawing the headers and see what I can find out about code and materials. The guy at the local lumber store seemed to think that the 8" I beams were strong enough for the 20' span (from wall to Glulam). I'll go back and get some specs.

the ruff looks good, but most of your lumber values are off significantly. your longest rafters are around 18 feet and depending on what the snow load is in your area your going to need 2x10 or 2x12s. as was said before, your main beam is way small. for an upstairs with a treadmill your going to need a serious beam if you dont want any posts. In wood my best gues will be somthing along the lines of a 8x16 micro or glue, with 2x12 joists.

Honestly its good to know about what you want, but if your spending that kind of money on a garage, you mine as well get it drawn up by a profesional.

I would put in 12 foot ceiling so you could put in a lift later.

I would put in 12 foot ceiling so you could put in as lift later.


what about the sprinklers

if you have a room of any kind in our area you have to have sprinklers and the must be plumbed before the inside cutoff and before the toilet and sink.

what about the sprinklers

if you have a room of any kind in our area you have to have sprinklers and the must be plumbed before the inside cutoff and before the toilet and sink.

This is residential not commercial. I've not heard of any area that requires sprinklers in residential areas, under 5 stories anyway.

As far as the upstairs is concerned, I'll ask about that. What I wanted to avoid is all kinds of fire code hassles. Hell I wasn't even planning a door into the upstairs (I may later if I smoke it up too much from welding etc). I know codes are there to protect, but in this instance, it's not like it will be an apartment or dwelling of any kind. There'll probably be a tread mill, bow flex and shelving for some of our 'crap'.


Since you are going to need a building permit anyway (at least I'm assuming you do) it's a lot less hassel than to go back in and put in the plumbing. Since this isn't an attached garage then I don't think you need to do the doubleing of the drywall, but you might since it could be considered "living space." I'd add the door at the bottom of the stairs to cut out on dust anyway, the extra costs isn't that much.

I would show the plans as a single story, you can"add" the upsairs later, get it passed inspections and finals then come back and do the stair well up and finish the top that way you don't need to be out the fire code door, and hassle of the extra expense. I would also pull the electrical, plumbing permits, that way when you do the footings stem and flat work it is all done and you dont need to mess with saw cutting the slab and doing extra work. might seem like a lot to do now to get the permits but will be worth it in the long run. reason for the electric here in OK if it is not permited no meter to the structure. Another idea is to call a couple ofbuilding supliers and ask about plans from them that are stamped that you could take in with about the same footprint you want to build, some of the smaller places will draw them up for a small reasonable fee and then you would be set.

you should look into open web trusses for the area to hold the second floor. you can get them to span the entire 40' and engineer them to put the load where you have the post in the middle. if you plan to install plumbing and anything else like A/C it will make easier and w/ no drilling/hole sawing. downfall is the size and weight of the truss an manuvering them up there... not impossible w/ a few friends or a scissor lift. once they're up there and plumbed, just nail them in the top plates and you are ready for the next one. A glue lam may not be strong enough to support the weight in the middle. I personally would use a couple of LVL's to support the load of the roof and second floor.
edit: you may also look into roof trusses. I inquired about a 32' span truss (32' X30' building) and this included an 8' square opening for attic space. these were around $90 each..I thought it was cheap considering I would only need 15 of them on 24" center.