Ive got a 95 bronco 5.8 that came with the automatic hubs. Did the manual conversion when i got the truck about 6 months ago. Im now on my 4th set of manual hubs. Only mods are 35" baja claw radials and a 3 inch single exhaust. Ive now got the warn premium hubs which i replaced yesterday as I broke the last set. Lifetime garuntee on em. I had cheapos before but this just isnt making any since. My k5 never had this problem and I had bigger tires and more power. Only difference was I had superwinch instead of warns.

Warn makes a good hub. You are running 35's on stock TTB parts. Bad gearing and big tires on weak parts makes for a boom. You can see whats available as far as drive flanges go, but that will just make the next weakest part fail. I would swap a 60 or at least a ctm'd cromod 44. That will solve the weak parts for the most part. Dynatrac has a new desing manual hub for 500 a set. I doubt you will find those easy to break.

I would advise better gearing and less skinny pedal.

Warn hubs are junk. I had superwinches with 35" sx, standard and LOTS of skinney pedal.


With that said put a 60 up front. TTb brings the GHEY.

Check the wheel bearings. On a TTB, even a little excess play will eat locking hubs.

I don't recall where I heard or read this, but I saw it somewhere that you have to change something else besides just the hubs if you had automatics. I don't know any more about it.

Found it. That didn't take long. "Automatic hubs with 3 screws in the cap, requires a Warn 32720 spindle nut conversion kit that we keep in stock." It was a vendor on ebay.

you must use a diffrent spindle lock with locking hubs vs the factory autos - we had a truck at work that would eat one hub - it had the factory auto -lock on one side and the other style on the other - we replaced the huds with factory fords - and no more problems - x2 on the wheel bearings

Warn hubs are junk. I had superwinches with 35" sx, standard and LOTS of skinney pedal.


With that said put a 60 up front. TTb brings the GHEY.


i still have a free set of mile markers on mine... i kinda hope they blow before anything else...:D

Wheel bearings are tight but that side was a little loose. I have the proper spindle nuts on it. Im not throwing a 60 under it till I start seriously damaging this thing. I ran 44's on a dana 44 for over a year with no problems, maybe I'll get luckier on this as well. At least the parts store gives these a lifetime garuntee.

I ran 44's on a dana 44 for over a year with no problems

ya in 2 wheel drive :flipoff2:

Warn makes a good hub. You are running 35's on stock TTB parts. Bad gearing and big tires on weak parts makes for a boom. You can see whats available as far as drive flanges go, but that will just make the next weakest part fail. I would swap a 60 or at least a ctm'd cromod 44. That will solve the weak parts for the most part. Dynatrac has a new desing manual hub for 500 a set. I doubt you will find those easy to break.

I would advise better gearing and less skinny pedal.

TTB D44 hub parts are no different than any other D44 hub parts :shaking:

Its the loose wheelbearings. Tightening them up should stop the hubs from going boom.

It has nothing to do with TTB. If you had automatic hubs, you have to change to a different type spindle nut to use regular hubs. I would imagine at least the hub is different since they are automatic hubs, but maybe its the spindle. I don't know. What makes the automatic hub engage. is it electric or is it power to the shaft?

Power to the shaft. I swapped the spindle nuts. FYI they will work without changing the nuts, I did discover that, It breaks the hub. After the 1st set I got the correct nuts. I ran my blazer in 4wd, I just didnt run a locker. I wont run one in this either. I dont feel I need one.