Recieved a DSA Type1 Reciever from aloharover and put an STG-58 togeather yesterday. The plan was to refinish in Duracoat "Parkr" but I sort of like the worn finish. I may just replace the furniture and leave it...

Thanks again Rover!

http://myweb.cableone.net/rnjacobson/fal1.jpg

http://myweb.cableone.net/rnjacobson/fal2.jpg

prettttty :D

I just finished converting my fal to "para" and am wondering if I should leave it black and green or do something "interesting" :laughing:

by the way, is your headspacing lug set in all the way?

by the way, is your headspacing lug set in all the way?

Locking Shoulder.

And no its not.

Pete

headspacing lug
Locking Shoulder.

tomatoes / red squishy things on the vine you make spaghetti sauce with
:flipoff2:

yeah, you'll definitely want to hammer that locking shoulder flush with the receiver...

yeah, you'll definitely want to PRESSSSSS that locking shoulder flush with the receiver...

press it in, do NOT hammer it. Good way for it to chip/crack/get the top fucked up.

press it in, do NOT hammer it. Good way for it to chip/crack/get the top fucked up.


meh. I hammered mine in with a punch. The little divot keeps the punch from drifting while you drive it in. Works tits...

Yeah that was the sorta part in my title. It is a little large on the outer edge so I need to run a file around it so it sits inside the reciever.

the locking shoulder needs to be as tight as possible, I wouldn't think filing any of it would be a good idea.

It can be a bitch to get in, but once it's in, you know it's not coming out.

I hammered on it real well, I can see it hanging up on the front edge justa bit! I think I am going to just make a strting taper on it so it will self align...

I hope that works!

I hope it's the correct shoulder also. :laughing:

I did the WECSOG method of headspacing until I can get some gages.

I hammered on it real well, I can see it hanging up on the front edge justa bit! I think I am going to just make a strting taper on it so it will self align...

I hope that works!

I hope it's the correct shoulder also. :laughing:

I did the WECSOG method of headspacing until I can get some gages.




wow. I wouldn't even fuck with it unless I was absolutely sure it was the correct one.

we kinda lucked out when we did our group-build of FAL rifles. Most of us could salvage someone else's locking shoulder. I don't think anyone had to order any new ones :D

I did the WECSOG method of headspacing until I can get some gages.


do you need to borrow a set?

Tell me what you think!! I am going to hammer this thing in the rest of the way, but as far as it goes now I can chamber 3 different kinds of ammo, and an A-zoom snap cap just fine. BUT! If I put one layer of electrical tape (.0065 on my caliper) on the face of any of the rounds it will not cahmber all the way. I know this is ghetto, but damn that seams like a good headspace to me.

If you guys feel this is not correct then I would be grateful if I could barrow a set from ya doc!

I pressed the locking lug all the way in using my vice, an old magazine, and a flat piece of bar stock...

All the rounds still chamber, but if I add one layer of electrical tape (.0065) None of the rounds will chamber.

This is a matching numbers kit.


What do you guys think? Shoot it, or check it?

Check it , then shoot it.

Either take it to a Smith and have him check the HS for you, or buy the go no-go gauges, or borrow them from one of us that has them.

I wouldnt trust your electrical tape method :laughing:

give it to me. I'll let ya know if it shoots or not. :D

Recieved a DSA Type1 Reciever from aloharover and put an STG-58 togeather yesterday. The plan was to refinish in Duracoat "Parkr" but I sort of like the worn finish. I may just replace the furniture and leave it...

Thanks again Rover!

http://myweb.cableone.net/rnjacobson/fal1.jpg

http://myweb.cableone.net/rnjacobson/fal2.jpg

Great looking Stg. I wouldn`t replace the furniture though. Take a razor blade/box knife blade and scrape over the major problems spots to smooth them out. Then bead blast it. It`ll go good with the worn finish on the rest of the rifle. IMHO the "WESCOG", headspace method is OK in a field repair scenario, but absolutly stupid when access to proper tools are available. Why take the chance of injury at worst, or destruction of a very spendy receiver at best. :shaking: Shit man, I`ll send you my headspace tools for nothing if you want to use them. Your face and the rifle are worth it.

Haha

Thanks guys for offering the tools up. I am going to take it to impact and see if the guy there will let me throw the gages down the chamber real fast. If not I am just going to purchase them. I need a set for my 1919 and Polytech M14 anyhow.

Again thanks folks!

Ok, I took the rifle down to Impact guns and we ran two different sets of gauges through the gun. It would not close on any of the go, or no go gauges!!! :confused:

So I guess the thing is tight. I went down to Crudbelas and purchased some hornady .308 MATCH 168gr BTHP and it chambers it without any problems...


So now what? Should I open it ups so the gauge says it's good, or let it be knowing that it could open up after firing? I would assume the MATCH ammo is at the largest of specs in order to be tight in a chamber, but the FAL still eats it.

So now what? Should I open it ups so the gauge says it's good, or let it be knowing that it could open up after firing? I would assume the MATCH ammo is at the largest of specs in order to be tight in a chamber, but the FAL still eats it.

its only going to move like .001-.002 at most.
it should close with like "2 thumbs pressure" on a GO 308 gauge. that will keep it in the tight end of 7.62NATO

you can shave the back of the bolt or the flat face of the locking shoulder. I would do the locking shoulder and make sure its square.

you did pull the extractor and everything from the bolt when you did this right?
see if it will close with MASKING tape on the back of a match round.

you did pull the extractor and everything from the bolt when you did this right?
see if it will close with MASKING tape on the back of a match round.

X2 on removing the extractor, proper measurement of headspace WILL NOT happen with it installed.
That and EVERYTHING must be CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN!! That includes the chamber, bolt face, and bolt carrier.

So I guess the thing is tight. I went down to Crudbelas and purchased some hornady .308 MATCH 168gr BTHP and it chambers it without any problems...


awesome! you got one of the rare match quality fals. it is good for .25 moa or less at 1k yards:D

Ok, We did not pull the extractor when he did the G0/NO GO gauges...

I just got the extractor out (Already had the FP out) and chambered a round with thumb pressure no problems. I added one layer of Blue Painters masking tape and it takes ALOT of pressure to get it to chamber. It does though. I have to use the palm of my hand and push real hard. I am going to add a second layer and try it.....


Two layers is a no go!

awesome! you got one of the rare match quality fals. it is good for .25 moa or less at 1k yards

Well yeah!


What do you think I am building here a plinker!!!

Now back to my masking tape headspace WECSOG method.. :flipoff2:


I guess I will take it down tomorrow and try it again using his guages. This time without the extractor in place, and with the carrier I will try to close it on the GO using two thumbs..

Ok, We did not pull the extractor when he did the G0/NO GO gauges...

I just got the extractor out (Already had the FP out) and chambered a round with thumb pressure no problems. I added one layer of Blue Painters masking tape and it takes ALOT of pressure to get it to chamber. It does though. I have to use the palm of my hand and push real hard. I am going to add a second layer and try it.....


Two layers is a no go!

"I" would say its safe if that is a true match round. I would still run a set of headspace gauges WITHOUT THE EXTRACTOR YA DUMBASS :flipoff2:
at your next earliest convenience before shooting :laughing:

and a spotless chamber and guage :p

oh and how much fun was that extractor to pull without the tool? :laughing: you can make a remover out of some steel rod. I will post a pic if I remember.

"I" would say its safe if that is a true match round. I would still run a set of headspace gauges WITHOUT THE EXTRACTOR YA DUMBASS :flipoff2:
at your next earliest convenience before shooting :laughing:

and a spotless chamber and guage :p

oh and how much fun was that extractor to pull without the tool? :laughing: you can make a remover out of some steel rod. I will post a pic if I remember.

http://www.alpharubicon.com/leo/falextractserger.htm What do I win? I posted it first

oh and how much fun was that extractor to pull without the tool? :laughing: you can make a remover out of some steel rod. I will post a pic if I remember.



I use a small punch that the end has broken off, leaving a small nub that fits perfectly in the hole on the extractor. Put the bolt in a vise and press down with the punch and the extractor comes right out... no fancy tools required :D

I use a small punch that the end has broken off, leaving a small nub that fits perfectly in the hole on the extractor. Put the bolt in a vise and press down with the punch and the extractor comes right out... no fancy tools required :D

the ghetto tool in the link by Numidian will fit inside a 249 pistol grip :p along with a 2 piece firing pin, springs and extractor vacuum sealed in a little bag :flipoff2:

A Small nail in the vice got the extractor right out. I flipped the vice and the extractor falls right in...

Not a problem!