i have the oppurtunity to buy the dana 60 you see in these pictures. it is a kingpin style out of a full time dodge, from a 70s/80s model.

is this a desirable axle?
it has these funky hub/drive flanges on it, whats the deal?
is there anything different about this axle?

here is a picture of one of the hubs, ignore the silver color, the owner painted it that way.

here is another pic of the hub

overall pic, the axle i would be buying is the one in the foreground

the knuckle

they just use external locking hubs which are pretty much junk. other than that they are a standard front 60.

edit: in your case they have a bolt on drive flange. pretty much everthing else is interchangeable with chev stuff.

Originally posted by Aggro
they just use external locking hubs which are pretty much junk. other than that they are a standard front 60.

edit: in your case they have a bolt on drive flange. pretty much everthing else is interchangeable with chev stuff.

so what i would be buying, how could i convert it to a decent WARN locking hub?

Originally posted by 9-Volt


so what i would be buying, how could i convert it to a decent WARN locking hub?

new wheel hubs. a complete front axle is generally cheaper than the wheel hubs, though.

Originally posted by Aggro


new wheel hubs. a complete front axle is generally cheaper than the wheel hubs, though.

could i put chevy kingpin knuckles on it?

lol :p

I am rebuilding the exact same axle to go under my truck. I will be running the drive flanges and an ARB up front.

Don't let people scare you about the external lockout design - if you are breaking those drive flanges you need 35 spline outers anyway :p And speaking of which - you will need to convert to GM style outer assemblies to move up to 30 spline outer stubs.

So if you are upgrading to a 60 from something considerably smaller (Toyota, 44) then run it and upgrade later if you ever need to... Most people won't need to :)

Originally posted by DRM
lol :p

I am rebuilding the exact same axle to go under my truck. I will be running the drive flanges and an ARB up front.

Don't let people scare you about the external lockout design - if you are breaking those drive flanges you need 35 spline outers anyway :p And speaking of which - you will need to convert to GM style outer assemblies to move up to 30 spline outer stubs.

So if you are upgrading to a 60 from something considerably smaller (Toyota, 44) then run it and upgrade later if you ever need to... Most people won't need to :)

sounds good DRM...

but the axle pictured, good deal at $500?

Originally posted by DRM
lol :p

I am rebuilding the exact same axle to go under my truck. I will be running the drive flanges and an ARB up front.

Don't let people scare you about the external lockout design - if you are breaking those drive flanges you need 35 spline outers anyway :p And speaking of which - you will need to convert to GM style outer assemblies to move up to 30 spline outer stubs.

So if you are upgrading to a 60 from something considerably smaller (Toyota, 44) then run it and upgrade later if you ever need to... Most people won't need to :)

what the hell are you talking about? do you even know?? the drive flange is obviously NOT the weak link. The bolts that hold it on are- just like external hubs on jeep axles, the bolts loosen up and snap off. 35 spline outer stubs will also work fine with those hubs, you just need to get a 35 spline drive flange. "move up to 30 spline outers" WTF??:question: :flipoff2:

would somebody please tell me if this would work for my purposes, and is a good deal.

250hp
welded diff
80:1
42s
heavy right foot

axle cost is $500

9-volt
buy it
run the drive flange
if you want 35 spline stubbys make a set out of side gears
also do not believe those who say that the external locking hubs are junk, I would actually vote the opposite, I like to be able to tighten them down with some nice big bolts rather than all that internal stuff, but that's just me. Plus I think the Dodge hub looks bigger and burlier.
what t-case are you running?

also be sure to keep the bolts tight or aggro just might be right:D

Is it already welded?
or were you going to weld it?
if it isn't I wouldn't, at least not up front.
just run it open until you can afford an arb, mac, or ox

no caliper$
the rotors look like chev
are you running 16 or 16.5 rims?

it is not already welded.

i kinda like the look of the flanges too. i will be running a 203 since the thing will be in four wheel drive all the time anyways, and that leaves me to run a doubler later very easily.

to make a 35 spline outer for it why couldnt i just cut down a inner? making a drive flange for it is easy, i would just take this drive flange to a machine shop and say i want the hole 1.5" diamter and 35 splines instead of 30.

so you think i should buy it?

d 60 is from a 76-79 dodge with a 203 tc. no lock outs avail. will need to convert all from king pin out. i would leave it alone. its plenty strong the way it is. if you do convert i'll by your junk. dogbender@hotmail.com

Originally posted by mj
no caliper$
the rotors look like chev
are you running 16 or 16.5 rims?

there is a caliper for it in a box that comes with it.

it definetly needs the calipers rebuilt though, and needs new rotors.

i want to run 15s with a 3.5"BS, a little grinding is ok with me.

my friend 'freshman' on this board bought a dodge 60 with external lockout hubs. with a 350/465/205 locked with 38 sx's on a landcruiser he blew those external hubs apart left and right like they were kids toys. He finally made some drive flanges and they ain't broke since.

I think $500 is a good deal for that axle. Run the drive flanges dude you'll be fine with a 4 banger even with the 42's. even it becomes an issue you get 35spl stubs and make some drive flanges for them for cheap.

Originally posted by 9-Volt


to make a 35 spline outer for it why couldnt i just cut down a inner?

so you think i should buy it?

The inners dont have the metal ring that the seals go on, dirt and water could flow in and out of your hubs and they would get toasted quick. does any body understand what im trying to say.

Originally posted by Danger Ranger
my friend 'freshman' on this board bought a dodge 60 with external lockout hubs. with a 350/465/205 locked with 38 sx's on a landcruiser he blew those external hubs apart left and right like they were kids toys. He finally made some drive flanges and they ain't broke since.

I think $500 is a good deal for that axle. Run the drive flanges dude you'll be fine with a 4 banger even with the 42's. even it becomes an issue you get 35spl stubs and make some drive flanges for them for cheap.

yeah well i wont be having a 4banger anymore :D

i thought about it and realized what a crappy idea it was at only 75:1 heheh

why are you talking about cutting down an inner shaft to have it made into 35 spline?

I think you will most likely be fine with the 30 spline stub shafts and drive-flanges for a while
but when you are ready


get an arb

use the side gears in the open dif as drive flanges by having a local machine shop anneal them, and weld them to a flat plate that has been drilled to bolt onto your hub

buy new 35 spline stub shafts they are cheap insurance

and then you are done

if you're not gonna get that $500 60 let me

If you willing to wait I'd even help ya make the drive-flanges when I make mine.

9 volt those drive flanges are awsome. They should be easy to convert to 35 spline like you said at a machine shop. I would say that those 8 huge bolts are alot stronger than the splines on an internally splined hub. Those look like they are the same size as the bolts on a 14 bolt rear axle flange and I know those are half inch. If that is true then thay are the same size and number as the ones on a rockwell drive flange. I am sure that this is a stronger setup than some internally splined setup. Just make sure that you locktight the bolts in so they wont back out. Use the red shit. It seems to work best for me. I would say get it. What is the WMS to WMS on it? If it is the same as the chevy version like I think some of the dodges are, you should switch to the chevy shafts because they do not neck down. In fact the ones in the chevy front end I had for while actually necked up to be bigger than 1.5 after the splines. I think that if you run it that way with the 35 spline stubbs you will never break it with 38s. I would not however recomend welding the diff. We did that to swamper502s front 60 and it works but with the hubs locked in 2 wheel drive it is a real bitch to turn. I dont think that you want to permanently give your truck the turning radius of a semi. I would justy wait until you can get a detroit. That way when you get the doubler you can put it in 2 wheel low and the detroit will unlock and let you steer. Believe me, I used to run a detoit with no 2 wheel low and I got really sick of 90 point turns and I know that welded diffs are even woirse than that!

Hope all that helps. :beer:

Doesnt that 203 have a 2 wheel drive selection? I thought they were part time full time cases. Maybe that is something else I am thinking of.

well after thinking about the drive flanges more and how often i hear of lockouts breaking on the trail, i bought it :D

i dunno how much i will finally pay for it in the end, cause he thinks he might want to do a partial trade for a dodge dually dana 70 rear end that i have around.

if thats the case, i could end up with a front 60 and a FF rear 60 for under $350 :eek:

how kick ass would that be? :D

the neck down shafts are not brand specific, they are year specific.
my 1990 Dodge 60 has the fat shafts as well and is ~2" narrower then a chev

if this 60 has the necked down shafts, is it just a bolt in thing to go with the fatter ones or is there a bunch of other shit i have to change?

Originally posted by Aggro
move up to 30 spline outers" WTF??:question: :flipoff2:

Obviously a typo on my part dude.... chill out :p

From what I understand - all replacement shafts are no longer necked down, so buy new stock Dana shafts and swap them in, keeping the stock necked down ones as spares.

For $500 - you got a deal.

I paid $700 for mine. Was missing one caliper bracket and both calipers, only had one drive flange and one Selectro lockout. Good part was it was welded, and came with stock 4.88's :cool2: I picked up another drive flange for pretty cheap, got a good deal on the ARB so the welded diff goes to the rear when I convert to 35 spline there. Brakes are not big deal - I am converting to 3/4 ton brakes anyway.

To the person who broke lockouts - bet there were the junky Selectro hubs....

As for the comments about the bolts loosening and breaking - Maybe YOU had problems checking your truck for loose bolts, but the rest of us are generally better at simple maintenance ;)

Run the BOM and make sure it is not a front 61

Ron

Originally posted by DRM
From what I understand - all replacement shafts are no longer necked down, so buy new stock Dana shafts and swap them in, keeping the stock necked down ones as spares.

For $500 - you got a deal.

I paid $700 for mine. Was missing one caliper bracket and both calipers, only had one drive flange and one Selectro lockout. Good part was it was welded, and came with stock 4.88's :cool2: I picked up another drive flange for pretty cheap, got a good deal on the ARB so the welded diff goes to the rear when I convert to 35 spline there. Brakes are not big deal - I am converting to 3/4 ton brakes anyway.

To the person who broke lockouts - bet there were the junky Selectro hubs....

As for the comments about the bolts loosening and breaking - Maybe YOU had problems checking your truck for loose bolts, but the rest of us are generally better at simple maintenance ;)

got any pics of yours dave?

this one has 4.10s, but i am going with 5.89s anyways so it doesnt matter. only nice thing about it having 4.88s would be resale value of the gears, and then i have a low gearset open carrier for the 5.89s :smokin:

wanna sell your open carrier since youre going with an ARB? ill trade you a 35spline 4.10 carrier for it :D

Originally posted by 9-Volt


got any pics of yours dave?

this one has 4.10s, but i am going with 5.89s anyways so it doesnt matter. only nice thing about it having 4.88s would be resale value of the gears, and then i have a low gearset open carrier for the 5.89s :smokin:

wanna sell your open carrier since youre going with an ARB? ill trade you a 35spline 4.10 carrier for it :D

http://www.tennessee4x4.com/toyota/images/60/60f-01.jpg

http://www.tennessee4x4.com/toyota/images/60/60f-02.jpg

http://www.tennessee4x4.com/toyota/images/60/60f-03.jpg

http://www.tennessee4x4.com/toyota/images/60/60f-04.jpg


I have started tearing it apart to rebuild it in the shop just a few days ago - I will get some more pics tomorrow if you want.

The carrier that came in the front axle was the welded one - so that one wil go in the rear. I do have another stock low ratio carrier, but I am gonna hold on to it until I am sure of my plans ;)

You can find them on e-bay all the time, pretty cheap too...

I need a 3.54 detroit d60 35 spline
I have 4.88 powerlok d60 35 spline

Originally posted by mj
I need a 3.54 detroit d60 35 spline
I have 4.88 powerlok d60 35 spline

i have a 4.10 35 spline open D60 :D