I was just reading the new JP magazine and I saw that www.ctmracing.com (http://www.ctmracing.com) has a super joint for the 44's and 60's apparently. made out of 300M. supposedly not broken yet. anyone heard of these before? i think they were over 200 bucks <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> a U joint though!!! ouch!!!
later
bob

ouch ... do they come with a warranty ??

good to see others trying to make this work- 200 per joint wow- might be worth it though- thanks for posting up- Jess

its on page 38 of Jp magazine November issue 275 each for d44 joints and 300 each for d60 joints.

yeah....thats all cool but what happens when your joint is stronger than your shafts, or your shafts are stronger and joints are stronger than your R&P....

Would rather have a joint go and save the shafts than save the joing and blow a R$P

course you may not have that problem if running warm hubs of which are still expensive

i'm sure someone here will say just go 60! anyhow I'm hoping jesse's joints get worked out and they are priced more reasonably.
I can hope can't I,
Bob

Originally posted by RockJeep:
<STRONG>i'm sure someone here will say just go 60! </STRONG>

$275 per u-joint ( <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> )and $700 for a full set of alloy shafts sure takes a lot of the sting out of a 60, that's for sure.

The "weakest link" discussion is always an interesting one. In this case what WOULD you prefer to blow first? R&P, alloy axle, mega u-joint, or hub? I'm thinkin' hub hands down as it's the cheapest / easiest to replace, but what if you're running slugs?

And then, at what point DO you finally throw in the 44 towel and move to a 60 or have we finally reached the point where alloy axles / mega u-joint costs outweigh the benefits (or at least make a 60 financially attractive)?

[ 09-30-2001: Message edited by: Eric Ruhl ]

Now that is pretty damn pricey and I thought $100 per joint was pushing it. They did say that they was rebuildable.

I think this product is definatly for a niche market of users who only need slightly more then a stock dana 44, those who will be blowin axles and/or ring and pinion on a regular basis should step up to a 60. It comes down to knowing what you expect and having the common sense to not push the envelop of your equipment. Discresion is the better part of valor(sp?)

anyone wanna buy a 4.56 8 lug d44 front? hehe <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

I just had a chat with Axle Jack of CTM today. He was driving home from the A.R.C.A event. He told me that his U joints held up in the test rigs at the comp., instead two outer stub axles broke. They were Moser chrome-molly units! 300M stock is about twice the price of 4130 (chrome-molly) and is extremely tough to machine, hence the price. But something else will always break first when using 300M. Many people already have a lot invested in there front D44s (lockers, R&Ps etc.)and don't want to start over with a heavy, expensive D60.One other thing, when a axle or stub breaks just replace it. When a U joint breaks, it often takes out axles and sometimes the ball joints causing the wheel to come off.
Just my thought on it.

Originally posted by RockJeep:
<STRONG>275 each for d44 joints and 300 each for d60 joints.</STRONG>

That is just plain stupid <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
Anybody who would pay that is a real sucker.
How many Spicers could you buy for that, like 28? Good grief <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Reddwarf:
<STRONG>That is just plain stupid <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
Anybody who would pay that is a real sucker.
How many Spicers could you buy for that, like 28? Good grief <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

how many shafts could you replace, at 140 a pop...... every time ive wasted a joint ive taken a shaft too....

so in the last 2 months ive spent 450$ replacing broken joints and shafts......

currently lookin to build a 60...... but this is worth lookin at...

Originally posted by Reynolds:
<STRONG>I just had a chat with Axle Jack of CTM today. He was driving home from the A.R.C.A event. He told me that his U joints held up in the test rigs at the comp., instead two outer stub axles broke. They were Moser chrome-molly units! 300M stock is about twice the price of 4130 (chrome-molly) and is extremely tough to machine, hence the price. But something else will always break first when using 300M. Many people already have a lot invested in there front D44s (lockers, R&Ps etc.)and don't want to start over with a heavy, expensive D60.One other thing, when a axle or stub breaks just replace it. When a U joint breaks, it often takes out axles and sometimes the ball joints causing the wheel to come off.
Just my thought on it.</STRONG>

Yeah, I saw this at ARCA. He WASTED two outer shafts with these joints.

Hmmm, makes you wonder, huh?

They are bad ass joints. And like already said, they went unbroken at ARCA this weekend. I've never seen a Moser axle break like that before. <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0">

Seems to make sense to me.... and I am super CHEAP!


Like was said, if a U joint goes you generally lose one or both shafts on that side....

So that $300 joint basically means you are saving one shaft and the joint every time you break... seems like at $140 a shaft, the guy who broke 2 stub shafts int he ARCA competition just broke even on one joint... and will be ahead of the game next time he breaks...

Gee , I just came on here to ask that same question. I was wondering if anyone had tried these out. Not sure, but these are the oil-lite bushing style joints we are talking about? I know they said they were only for trail use trucks ( if that is a factor to anyone. Wonder if they would work for drive shafts too? Or if anything is in the works.
My problem is I need to stick with 44's because of the rear offset, and low output of the D18. These would be a definate plus to me. Cost???????? what the fawk, its a drop in the bucket. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Mud Lite:
<STRONG>My problem is I need to stick with 44's because of the rear offset, and low output of the D18.</STRONG>

D20 and a centered 60 or keep the 18 and convert a Ford front 60 (high pinion AND the offset you like).

DRM, you're saying alloy axles are a waste of money? The whole reason behind the alloy axles IMO was the ability to survive a blown u-joint but it sounds like you're claiming alloys get wasted just like stock axles when the u-joint blows. From what I've seen with the alloy axles, you blow a 297x and you're out $30. Slap in a new u-joint and you're back on the trail, but put these bad oscars in there and you're back to breaking axles (except now those axles are $$$). It sounds like the approach is to stick to stock outers with these u-joints. If it's gonna break anyway, at least let it be a cheap, short (easy to carry), boneyard replacement. With the alloy inner shaft and the super u-joint you can bet that stock outer is the weak point. Unless you use Superwinch hubs of course <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

Interesting stuff!

Originally posted by Eric Ruhl:
<STRONG>D20 and a centered 60 or keep the 18 and convert a Ford front 60 (high pinion AND the offset you like).

DRM, you're saying alloy axles are a waste of money? The whole reason behind the alloy axles IMO was the ability to survive a blown u-joint but it sounds like you're claiming alloys get wasted just like stock axles when the u-joint blows. From what I've seen with the alloy axles, you blow a 297x and you're out $30. Slap in a new u-joint and you're back on the trail, but put these bad oscars in there and you're back to breaking axles (except now those axles are $$$). It sounds like the approach is to stick to stock outers with these u-joints. If it's gonna break anyway, at least let it be a cheap, short (easy to carry), boneyard replacement. With the alloy inner shaft and the super u-joint you can bet that stock outer is the weak point. Unless you use Superwinch hubs of course <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

Interesting stuff!</STRONG>
these are my thoughts exactly. I would not run these U-joints if I had alloy inner and outer axles and felt there was a chance of axle breakage. That would defeat any point of cost saving, and for me money is the biggist issue. By using these with stock outers it would be an upgrade over stock, but how much? This definatly falls under my favorite saying, its always something....

Originally posted by DRM:
<STRONG>Seems to make sense to me.... </STRONG>

I just got off the phone with the guy and he's in the process of having the joints made of the same material, only forged... He said that even the CNC are hella strong. After tearing the ears off the stub shafts and being spit out onto the ground the joints were dusted off the and didn't have a scratch on them.

Originally posted by Eric Ruhl:
<STRONG>D20 and a centered 60 or keep the 18 and convert a Ford front 60 (high pinion AND the offset you like).

DRM, you're saying alloy axles are a waste of money? The whole reason behind the alloy axles IMO was the ability to survive a blown u-joint but it sounds like you're claiming alloys get wasted just like stock axles when the u-joint blows. From what I've seen with the alloy axles, you blow a 297x and you're out $30. Slap in a new u-joint and you're back on the trail, but put these bad oscars in there and you're back to breaking axles (except now those axles are $$$). It sounds like the approach is to stick to stock outers with these u-joints. If it's gonna break anyway, at least let it be a cheap, short (easy to carry), boneyard replacement. With the alloy inner shaft and the super u-joint you can bet that stock outer is the weak point. Unless you use Superwinch hubs of course <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

Interesting stuff!</STRONG>


im not sure thats what he meant,


as for me, i have special axles and everytime ive taken a joint out the inner axle went with it.... so about 155 a pop... if i could get a joint that would hold up, my shafts will last me longer... i may break a stub.... thats an easy cheap fix, plus i think the stub will hold up a little better than the stock 297 joint..

i dont think its the cure all, but i sure would like to see what they are about..... 60 joints are in my near future.... <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

I have been running 35 spline outers on my Ford 60 that are made from 300M. Now the yokes on the axles are breaking.Both times the yokes broke it did not hurt 300M. Was able to use axle again after putting on new yoke. Locker in front is tough on stuff. <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">

The purpose behind this joint for me is different then those w/d60's. I i'm going to run 38's and probably 37's after these old gumbo mudders where out. So i'd like a joint that will hold up a little bit more then the 297 but don't think i need all the strength of a 60. Does anyone know what size tire, hp, gearing, and how much gettin' it awn caused his stub to break?
Thanks,
Bob

Originally posted by RockJeep:
<STRONG>I was just reading the new JP magazine and I saw that www.ctmracing.com (http://www.ctmracing.com) has a super joint for the 44's and 60's apparently. made out of 300M. supposedly not broken yet. anyone heard of these before? i think they were over 200 bucks <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> a U joint though!!! ouch!!!
later
bob</STRONG>

The first two pairs of the u-joints for dana 60's were made for myself and friend from missouri back in MAY.. We had been breaking 60 front u-joints which take out the inner and outer axles usually because it breaks the ears off the yoke just like a dana 44 when the joint goes.My friend ran his set Memorial day weekend in a full size chevy that weighs 7200 pounds with very healthy big block;but, only with 39.5 boggers.The truck is used for rock climbing. While pounding on a big rock slab while turning lots of rpm's the axles finally let go. The u-joint went flying out like a ninja star.I have it on video and you can see the sparks flying.We found the u-joint laying in the rocks.It was without a SINGLE scratch!! However, it ripped the ears off the inner and outer axle shafts on the driver side and broke a 35 spline outer shaft in the middle of the shaft on the passenger side.The ears on the passenger axles were intact.But, they had started to stretch as evidenced by a gap around the u-joint cap and broken spot welds on the u-joint caps.Verne from Jp stayed with us all weekend and took pictures of it which I am suprised it didn't make into the memorial day article. needless to say the u-joint is far superior to the hardness of the ears on the axle shafts.The ear will let go before the shafts..If you go to chrome moly shafts you will be pushing the strength of the ring and pinion.My buddy runs a reverse rotation front 60 and is going to run the joints with the chrome moly 60 shafts JAck is makign for him and see what happens. I passed on my set that JACK made for me because I felt that it was pointless to use a joint that was indestructible(which it is!) that would lose its caps when everything else broke..I suggested he make replacable caps and then it would be a great set-up.Otherwise you would be stuck buying a u-joint just to get caps.He is alos tossing the idea around of making chrome moly shafts with removable ears.Therefore when the ears go you slip them off and put new ones on .Give him a call.JAck is a super nice guy and loves a challange and is easy to work with on something.Anyways, just thought I would pass on the information.I would have posted it months ago .But, I didn't want to upset anyone since I knew Jesse was making joints and I thought might be taken the wrong way. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

[ 10-01-2001: Message edited by: onetonwillysands10 ]

[ 10-01-2001: Message edited by: onetonwillysands10 ]

[ 10-01-2001: Message edited by: onetonwillysands10 ]

Originally posted by RockJeep:
<STRONG>anyone wanna buy a 4.56 8 lug d44 front? hehe <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"></STRONG>


Yeah PM me 4 more

Originally posted by onetonwillysands10:
<STRONG> The first two pairs of the u-joints for dana 60's were made for myself and friend from missouri back in MAY.. We had been breaking 60 front u-joints which take out the inner and outer axles usually because it breaks the ears off the yoke just like a dana 44 when the joint goes.My friend ran his set Memorial day weekend in a full size chevy that weighs 7200 pounds with very healthy big block;but, only with 39.5 boggers.The truck is used for rock climbing. While pounding on a big rock slab while turning lots of rpm's the axles finally let go. The u-joint went flying out like a ninja star.I have it on video and you can see the sparks flying.We found the u-joint laying in the rocks.It was without a SINGLE scratch!! However, it ripped the ears off the inner and outer axle shafts on the driver side and broke a 35 spline outer shaft in the middle of the shaft on the passenger side.The ears on the passenger axles were intact.But, they had started to stretch as evidenced by a gap around the u-joint cap and broken spot welds on the u-joint caps.Verne from Jp stayed with us all weekend and took pictures of it which I am suprised it didn't make into the memorial day article. needless to say the u-joint is far superior to the hardness of the ears on the axle shafts.The ear will let go before the shafts..If you go to chrome moly shafts you will be pushing the strength of the ring and pinion.My buddy runs a reverse rotation front 60 and is going to run the joints with the chrome moly 60 shafts JAck is makign for him and see what happens. I passed on my set that JACK made for me because I felt that it was pointless to use a joint that was indestructible(which it is!) that would lose its caps when everything else broke..I suggested he make replacable caps and then it would be a great set-up.Otherwise you would be stuck buying a u-joint just to get caps.He is alos tossing the idea around of making chrome moly shafts with removable ears.Therefore when the ears go you slip them off and put new ones on .Give him a call.JAck is a super nice guy and loves a challange and is easy to work with on something.Anyways, just thought I would pass on the information.I would have posted it months ago .But, I didn't want to upset anyone since I knew Jesse was making joints and I thought might be taken the wrong way. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

[ 10-01-2001: Message edited by: onetonwillysands10 ]

[ 10-01-2001: Message edited by: onetonwillysands10 ]

[ 10-01-2001: Message edited by: onetonwillysands10 ]</STRONG>

Who makes the alloy 60 35sp inners and outers, and how much about?

<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

I saw these things at the ARCA event last weekend, and they look awesome. The guy who made them was walking around with a broken stub shaft attached to an unbroke ujoint, and a big smile on his face. They look beefy as can be, but they do seem real expensive.

neat idea, but still a dana 44. It only takes a few stubs breaking in the spindle and the spindle is junk too. Add that to your spares list! Here's an idea... put those joints in a dana 30 with alloy shafts and get better ground clearance in the process. Then sling it under your fullsize for the ultimate in bulletproof, and clearance!! <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> Proof positive this spindle has seen one too many broken stubs!!
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1554566&a=11802211&p=44969753&Sequence=0

[ 10-02-2001: Message edited by: Aggro ]

it would be nice to avoid breaking the allow axles - i was hoping to fix the cross breakage and make the hub the weak link - but it seems the hubs are quite strong - so is anyone in favor of the caps breaking and we hope the axles do not distort? is this an acceptable alternative - for around 100.00 range? or is this a dumb idea? thanks for your input- Jess

I think the idea of stub shafts that are double splined and have a removable yoke is the way to go...

DRM you must have stock in spicer spindle manufacturing!!! <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

How about using a factory D44 inner? they break in a way that doesn't mess anything else up. I know that's a pretty serious limit on torque, but it's also really well controlled. But, I think the ears are going to stretch on any factory axleshaft exposed to a strong joint for very long.
How about building an appropriate strength hub fuse to protect the axles, then run all super duper high zoot expensive as it gets axles and joints. I realize the hub fuse isn't perfect because of turning angles and the associated strength decrease, but it's cheap and easy to fix.
OR, replacing factory axles in the D60 isn't that expensive of a job, assuming you're running a non-custom shaft, so run a good joint and good 4340 stub and plan on ripping ears off the inner. It's a $100 fix, and not very compact parts, but once again it's predictable.

I popped a spicer D60 joint at full turn this summer, no idea what broke first, but the joint was broken, and the ears were ripped off too. The inner was twisted very slightly, and so was the 35 spl. stub. This seems like a very balanced setup to me, and it's kind of expensive to fix, but not terrible. You're buying a joint, inner and outer. If you did the same with a 300M joint, you're buying a joint (for caps), inner and outer. HMMMMM...

This is a tough one, don't think there's a way to win here.

Originally posted by onetoncv:
<STRONG>it would be nice to avoid breaking the allow axles - i was hoping to fix the cross breakage and make the hub the weak link - but it seems the hubs are quite strong - so is anyone in favor of the caps breaking and we hope the axles do not distort? is this an acceptable alternative - for around 100.00 range? or is this a dumb idea? thanks for your input- Jess</STRONG>

If this works - I'm all for it.

Originally posted by COMPLAINE:
<STRONG>Who makes the alloy 60 35sp inners and outers, and how much about?

<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

The same guy. His name is Jack and he runs CTM. web address is www.ctmracing.com..The (http://www.ctmracing.com..The) axles are custom .Give him a call and he will work with you.

Originally posted by Aggro:
<STRONG>neat idea, but still a dana 44. It only takes a few stubs breaking in the spindle and the spindle is junk too. Add that to your spares list! Here's an idea... put those joints in a dana 30 with alloy shafts and get better ground clearance in the process. Then sling it under your fullsize for the ultimate in bulletproof, and clearance!! <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> Proof positive this spindle has seen one too many broken stubs!!
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1554566&a=11802211&p=44969753&Sequence=0

[ 10-02-2001: Message edited by: Aggro ]</STRONG>

dana 30...would last 5 seconds whether every part in it was made of chrome moly or not..The point about the spindle is certainly a valid point since the 60 spindle swells when the stub shaft breaks.In the end you will come back to picking your weak link.A better idea is to pick the weak link which takes the most force to break without causing collateral damage .This would take serious testing over several components.By the time you pay for chrome moly joints and shafts along with your 60 you probably could have bought 2 1/2 ton rockwells or something that avalanche produces.Also, you then are possibly making the ring pinion the weak link if you run a standard rotation 60 front.if you come up with an indestructible axle assembly you will just move the weak link to the driveshaft or transfercase/transmission..... just my two cents...

If they are charging that much for just one U-joint, you could go to a machine shop and have them make you one for cheaper.

I deal with 300M for work, it is really expensive, thats for sure. Its just a real pure version of 4340. You could run 4340 (cheaper) and still get most of the strength.

But in my opinion, I would rather replace a cheap U-joint, than any other part as it would be more expensive and more work...

JMO

Steve

You can heat treat 4340 up to about 280,000 psi and 300M up to 300,000 psi. Both are very brittle at this stress level. 300M was the strongest material until a few years ago when 310M came out. We use 300M for large transport aircraft landing gear. It must always have a coat of oil, plating or paint on it because bare metal will rust while you look at it!! My feeling is that it is way overkill for all the damage reasons stated so far. If you are worried about breaking D60 axles, it's time to step up to the Rockwell military axles!!

I would run these with a hub fuse and it should let the fuse go before the joint or axel even when turned. Using an ARB you should never have to replace anything but the fuse. At $7 thats cheap and the $300 for a ujoint is cheap if it works.

How about this. Dana 44 with the new 33 spline Ox-Locker and cro-moly shafts with the CTM U-Joints. Just run warn hub fuses and it seems to me that all you would ever break would be the $20 fuses. Ultimate set-up if you ask me, strength/weight wise.

How about moly outers, a good joint, and stock inners? This way the inner shaft will break down towards the r/p. Kinda costly to break a shaft, but if a stub goes, it's liable to take a spindle with it. If a joint goes it might takes shafts, I'm running slugs so the fuses are out.

Personally, I think I'll find me a 60, but a 44 that can take a beating dn't sound bad either.

Well if anyone wants to check them out this weekend at Clean Up I'll have them installed. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

http://www.jeepshots.com/shots/projects/miscellaneous/CTM%20U-joints.jpg

Paul

Were you able to get extra caps in case one spits and a cap flings itself someplace you can't find it?

How about moly outers, a good joint, and stock inners? This way the inner shaft will break down towards the r/p.
Not the easiest break to trail repair... fishing the inner axle out could be fun to watch. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

The beauty to having the hub as a 'fuse' is the ease of its repair....

Randii

Personally I like it! Jack builds some cool stuff! His website is new and small, but theres some info up. www.ctmracing.com (http://www.ctmracing.com)

I wonder if the rigs that broke the alloy outer stub where running drive flanges. For us mortals why not just run a good quality hub? I would think that the hub would let go before anything else in this system? Then, replacing a hub on the trail isn't that bad, and you can fit all the tools and parts you need in a tupperware container under the seat <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

You can only make a D44 so strong. I would think that having a good strong hub break would be a good cutoff point. Hell, with the new 33spline D44 detroit and OX locker you would have stonger inner shafts. The CTM joint, and a alloy outer axle, WARN hubs. IT sounds like a good combo to me!

You could also do the same thing on the D60. Run 35spline inner and outers, ctm joints, and warn hubs. This would be a strong a safe combo right?

later <IMG SRC="smilies/jeep1.gif" border="0">

On a D44, the warn hubs will break a 19 spline stub shaft, maybe even a 30 spline stub shaft. You would have to run a hub fuse of some sort.
Where are you going to get a 33 spline D44 front axleshaft? Carve from billet? $$$$

Breaking the stock inner shaft is really a pretty nice place to fix. With a D44, fishing the stub out is a little bit of a pain because the spline OD is close to the seal ID, but a magnet on a long stick does the trick. With a 10 bolt or something similar (smaller splines), the little piece comes out really easy.

There seems to be some agreement that a hub is a good place to break, for good reason. Maybe this is the way to pursue this:

Chromo inners (moser or warn)
30 spline chromo outers (going to have to be custom stubs for most of us, and will have to bore the spindles out to fit them)
CTM joints
Hub fuse from Warn, maybe a custom machined fuse designed to hold up a little better than their existing part.

This way the breakage is controlled to a piece that's cheap, easy to fix and doesn't wipe out other expensive parts. I don't think we can go too much stronger than the existing hub fuse or the D44 axle ears are going to see too much stress. But at least with this system you have some margin for error and the breakage is controlled.

I don't know what to do for a D60. Maybe the same hub fuse idea with custom alloy inners and outers? Maybe stick to stock stuff and be thankful for what you have?

Originally posted by onetoncv:
<STRONG>it would be nice to avoid breaking the allow axles - i was hoping to fix the cross breakage and make the hub the weak link - but it seems the hubs are quite strong - so is anyone in favor of the caps breaking and we hope the axles do not distort? is this an acceptable alternative - for around 100.00 range? or is this a dumb idea? thanks for your input- Jess</STRONG>

Breakable caps sounds like too cheap an alternative- true, itd be easy to make, but when one cap goes, you are still driving until the next cap goes.. which could do some yoke damage.. its whether the cap would be weaker than the yoke.... also, a weak cap wouldnt hold up very long anyway.. and really is like a pain in the azz hub fuse. IMO, if the cap did break on the trail- would u even hear it???????

nasvik: what do you drive and what size are the nuts on your axle u-bolts?!?!?!? I'll be there. I'll be the one with a 36"chainsaw in my backpack. <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

Aggro: U-bolts? That's a leaf spring thing. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> My Jeep is in my sig.

Paul

Ok i'll try again (to be funny that is) what size bolts secure the front axle to the rig? ah nevermind!! <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Mieser:
<STRONG>Personally I like it! Jack builds some cool stuff! His website is new and small, but theres some info up. www.ctmracing.com (http://www.ctmracing.com)

I wonder if the rigs that broke the alloy outer stub where running drive flanges. For us mortals why not just run a good quality hub? I would think that the hub would let go before anything else in this system? Then, replacing a hub on the trail isn't that bad, and you can fit all the tools and parts you need in a tupperware container under the seat <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

You can only make a D44 so strong. I would think that having a good strong hub break would be a good cutoff point. Hell, with the new 33spline D44 detroit and OX locker you would have stonger inner shafts. The CTM joint, and a alloy outer axle, WARN hubs. IT sounds like a good combo to me!

You could also do the same thing on the D60. Run 35spline inner and outers, ctm joints, and warn hubs. This would be a strong a safe combo right?

later <IMG SRC="smilies/jeep1.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

I agree Jack does bulid some cool stuff. He built the portal axles for reynolds 2002 bronco.

Originally posted by Aggro:
<STRONG>Ok i'll try again (to be funny that is) what size bolts secure the front axle to the rig? ah nevermind!! <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

Ah! I get it now!! <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Paul

whew!

Look at that big ol radius, that is what a lot of us were recomending for Jess on the next go around.

were watching - and the radius does look tempting - hope to have ours out next week- i think you would hear a cap blow - and save all of it before the ears blow on the alxes - were going for a cross that's damn tough - i mean if you blow your outer 19 spline axle is the same amount of time if you blew caps up- and less money - concidering the axle does not blow with the caps ? we will see-