Anyone know if I'm supposed to keep the rear sway bar? I've got my control arm mounts ground off and went to set the truss and it looks like the sway bar mounts are right where the truss is supposed to mount.

Here's the diagram:
http://bsdboy.com/images/claytonTruss.tiff

Only see a red X--no picture.
You probably can leave off the rear sway bar. Might help to describe your ride??

Ive done this swap on my '97 and ran into the same question. When I called and talked to Alex he said they did not run a rear sway bar. In their thinking it is so thin and doesn't offer much if any help. Not sure I agree but I did cut off the mounts and haven't ran with the rear bar in about 3 years. Call Alex and talk with him. He will answer ALL your questions. I think I called him about a dozen times in the week I installed my kit. He is real cool and loves to talk jeeps!

Dunno why the image doesn't show, here's a link to it: http://bsdboy.com/images/claytonTruss.tiff

And it's on a 2006 LJ, non-rubi

I called clayton yesterday for a couple other reasons, spring retainers I believe. So just chop the bugger off eh... Alright :D

I can kind of see the point, it is pretty thin. And more importantly, it'd right in the effin way. Thanks a ton.

Probably will have a few more Q's and the clayton shop is closed so stay tuned :homer:

cut it. you can fab up a better rear bar if you want one when your done

Dunno why the image doesn't show, here's a link to it: http://bsdboy.com/images/claytonTruss.tiff

And it's on a 2006 LJ, non-rubi

I called clayton yesterday for a couple other reasons, spring retainers I believe. So just chop the bugger off eh... Alright :D

I can kind of see the point, it is pretty thin. And more importantly, it'd right in the effin way. Thanks a ton.

Probably will have a few more Q's and the clayton shop is closed so stay tuned :homer:

Ask away. Mine is a TJ and it is a stretch kit but I am sure it is quite similar!

I thought Clayton ran triangulated rear uppers? If so You dont need it or want it. It will only cause bind as the triangulated uppers will want the rear axle to travel vertically in a straight line. where as the track bar will want it to swing vertically in an arc.

I thought Clayton ran triangulated rear uppers? If so You dont need it or want it. It will only cause bind as the triangulated uppers will want the rear axle to travel vertically in a straight line. where as the track bar will want it to swing vertically in an arc.

sway bar...not track-bar

Ha Ha reading comprehension helps immensly with this web wheeling stuff!
Scratch what I said. :homer:

sway bar...not track-bar

I was just about to say the same thing :mr-t:

Ask away. Mine is a TJ and it is a stretch kit but I am sure it is quite similar!

I'm about to have another q but not quite ready... I have the front "done" (but not adjusted) and have the springs and shocks in. I have noticed that the shock has about 4" of up travel left, which seems incorrect. Seems like the shock is either too long or the spring is too short.

Again, nothing had been adjusted but at first glance this looks like a problem. Once I get the rear back in I'll take some pics and start complaining... :grinpimp:

I'm about to have another q but not quite ready... I have the front "done" (but not adjusted) and have the springs and shocks in. I have noticed that the shock has about 4" of up travel left, which seems incorrect. Seems like the shock is either too long or the spring is too short.

Again, nothing had been adjusted but at first glance this looks like a problem. Once I get the rear back in I'll take some pics and start complaining... :grinpimp:

Did you change spring height? If so did you change the shocks to match?

"Change spring height"

I took out the old, put in the new.

"change the shocks to match?"

Again, took out the old and put in the new :smokin:

Really sorry, I'm clueless... This is my first lift :smokin:

"Change spring height"

I took out the old, put in the new.

"change the shocks to match?"

Again, took out the old and put in the new :smokin:

Really sorry, I'm clueless... This is my first lift :smokin:

So when you bought the lift from clayton it included new springs and new shocks??? If so then I'd say your okay. The guys at Clayton's are pretty sharp and I bet they got it right.

Reason i asked is you can buy just the arms and brackets from them (what I did) and then re-use your old springs and shocks. It is just recently (within the last couple of years) that they even started offering springs and shocks with their kits.

How are the clayton springs and shocks? I am looking at buying the 5.5" and just curious for feedback.

Progress is slow going but getting close :p

I have the truss welded on and got the SYE sorted out yesterday. Ground and painted all the welds and exposed metal so all that is left is putting the rear back underneath, brakes lines, rear shocks/springs, and a whole lot of adjusting.

Couple of questions.

The truss was supposed to be welded on at about 12 degrees forward, I got a cheap ass angle finder and find that it's at about 5-7 degrees forward only. Think this will much be a problem?

Also curious if the zerks on the johnny joints are supposed to be zerk up (inside the brackets) or zerk down (asking to get knocked off). It would make sense to put them zerk down so you can get to them without disconnecting the entire system to grease them.

Progress is slow going but getting close :p

I have the truss welded on and got the SYE sorted out yesterday. Ground and painted all the welds and exposed metal so all that is left is putting the rear back underneath, brakes lines, rear shocks/springs, and a whole lot of adjusting.

Couple of questions.

The truss was supposed to be welded on at about 12 degrees forward, I got a cheap ass angle finder and find that it's at about 5-7 degrees forward only. Think this will much be a problem?

Also curious if the zerks on the johnny joints are supposed to be zerk up (inside the brackets) or zerk down (asking to get knocked off). It would make sense to put them zerk down so you can get to them without disconnecting the entire system to grease them.

If the truss is tacked I'd knock it off and redo it. If it is fulling welded I'd live with it. As long as it is square to the housing, the 5-6 degrees will just mean you will have to lengthen or shorter your uppers to compensate when you adjust for pinion angle.

As for the zerks, put them up! It is harder to grease them but they will not survive facing down. Wonder how I know???

Fully welded and living with it :smokin:

Ya, I can se an argument for either up or down. I guess I was a little concerned that they would get knocked off by the bracket if I put them up. I'll let you know hoe it goes!

Progress is slow going but getting close :p

I have the truss welded on and got the SYE sorted out yesterday. Ground and painted all the welds and exposed metal so all that is left is putting the rear back underneath, brakes lines, rear shocks/springs, and a whole lot of adjusting.

Couple of questions.

The truss was supposed to be welded on at about 12 degrees forward, I got a cheap ass angle finder and find that it's at about 5-7 degrees forward only. Think this will much be a problem?

Also curious if the zerks on the johnny joints are supposed to be zerk up (inside the brackets) or zerk down (asking to get knocked off). It would make sense to put them zerk down so you can get to them without disconnecting the entire system to grease them.

You will find out if the degree difference will matter when you install the axle. The pinion should be aimed just below the T-case. Hopefully the degree diff is not so much that you have to re-do the truss. There should be enough adjustment in the control arms to set your pinion.

Upper arms are as short as possible and I still need to bring the pinion angle up a bit so the truss looks perfect. Nothing is adjusted at this point so I might be a bit off but I don't foresee any issues.

Just some minor stuff and she's done, front brake lines and steering is the only thing left really. Fawkin thing is tall, thinking 5.5" might be a bit overkill :shaking:

Upper arms are as short as possible and I still need to bring the pinion angle up a bit so the truss looks perfect. Nothing is adjusted at this point so I might be a bit off but I don't foresee any issues.

Just some minor stuff and she's done, front brake lines and steering is the only thing left really. Fawkin thing is tall, thinking 5.5" might be a bit overkill :shaking:


Sweet, glad the angle worked out. I did a different brand 5.5 linked lift and I thought the same thing about how tall it is. Just means you can put bigger tires on it. :flipoff2:

Here's the finished product, still need to get the arms all the right length

http://bsdboy.com/images/lifted2.jpg

The rear bar will give you some extra stability, but if you pay attention it seems to be much less effective with the geometry change that the triangulated uppers bring. On my long list of stuff to do is put an antirock or the other aftermarket rear bar (mfgr name escapes me) so I can adjust it to be a little stiffer and more effective.

It's probably stable enough without that most would never notice a difference if they weren't sensitive to that kinda thing.

I have claytons 5.5 on my 2006 lj rubicon with 37s and I love it. No rear sway bar and it hasn't been a problem yet. Just use the front one. But it rides good without either of them.