I was assembling some of my junk and found a small crack in the paint on my iron bellhousing. Well when I scraped it away I found it is in the casting?!?!?
Am I screwed on this BH?
Is it worth the effort to grind it and try to braze into the crack?
Any input appreciated.

Broke a bell housing on my Dads old 80 Chevy Scottsdale. Let the clutch out and pop, bang.... Had to be replaced....

some pics
wide view

close up

different light

I cracked one behind a 440 in my roadrunner back in the day. I took it to a local l weld shop to have them weld it, with specific instructions NOT TO BRAZE! Guess what $180 ('90) to get a brazed housing! For another $60 back then I could have had a BRAND NEW Lakewood! Live and learn.

If you take it to a GOOD weld shop, they can use Nyrod to weld it, but I would just go get another from the pick and pull or a new lakewood. The crack looks like it was from being dropped though not from romping on it. You may be able to use it like that if $$$ are tight now. Although it'll be a pain to swap out later.

run it till it dies.
where did you get a cast iron bell with the clutch linkage on the passenger side?

I busted a Peugeot tranny but that is the worst tranny ever made.:flipoff2: now I got an auto :skull:

My starter took out my bellhousing. I actually have a pretty big hole in it. I have been running like this for almost 3 yrs :eek: It is for sure on my list of things to take care of though.

i'd weld it up to keep it from cracking more then run it till it brakes but check on it once every blue moon

just my .02

Braze it or leave it alone Ill bet it's always been there,unless there is obvious mechanical damage on the inside.
I can't see it flying apart from that crack,however if it's was by the edge or near a bolt hole I would definitely weld it up.
If you do weld or braze it keep it mounted so it don't warp.

With it as easy to get to as it is now, get another. It may or may not ever give you any trouble but changing it will give you piece of mind.

if you really must keep it ( get a lakewood:D ) drill a 1/8" hole at either end of the crack to stop it from propagating

like this o--------o

I think I'll drill it and keep it. The passenger side clutch fork style bell is a little more rare so I'll keep an eye out for one.
Thanks folks

Originally posted by AIRZUKI
if you really must keep it ( get a lakewood:D ) drill a 1/8" hole at either end of the crack to stop it from propagating

like this o--------o


Drill the holes like AIRZUKI said but also put a couple of 1/4" grade 8 bolts in the holes to reinforce the cracked area.

Yeah...I third the drilling it! Then run it untill it dies. It looks more like a casting swell from after the casting process than a crack.

Drill either end and thread in a couple of plugs. That will stop the crack form continuing.
If you want to get rid of the crack entirely, then drill overlapping the plug you just put in, thread and plug that hole. Keep repeating untill you have filled the crack all the way across.

I thought all the hydro Chevy BHs were on the passenger side? Or is that not a Chevy? :confused:

Bryan

i dont think that is a hydro bell, it looks cast iron but does have a couple bolts?
not all hydro bells are PS, my 85-88 pickup bell is DS, they used it in Blazers to ~92ish

yes it is hydro and now it's drilled as well.
how does putting a bolt in the hole keep it from spreading?
i would assume (farm engineering) that screwing something in the hole would thus try to spread open the crack?
I'm not doubting you just wondered why that works?:confused:

Originally posted by ForestCam



Drill the holes like AIRZUKI said but also put a couple of 1/4" grade 8 bolts in the holes to reinforce the cracked area.

yep

bolts and you can even weld it up after you put the bolts through

i dont think it will give you any major problems,as long as your mounts are good

Originally posted by AIRZUKI
if you really must keep it ( get a lakewood:D ) drill a 1/8" hole at either end of the crack to stop it from propagating

like this o--------o

Yep, if you just lay a bead on the crack it will run further across the housing like a windshield chip. I might even drill 1/4 just to make sure you've covered the area where you think the crack ends.

SeanP

without really heating it you cannot see the ends of the crack.
so do you just drill what is visible?
I would leave it be

well I drilled the crack ends and very quickly then hit the clutch in side, now I believe that the clutch may be too big. I think I have a 12 inch when I need an 11 or 10
aruughhh!:mad: :mad: :mad:

sometimes I think I need an easier hobby like frisbee or tubing

anyone wanna join my tubing club? "pirates of the wilamette"

you can run either the 11" or 12" clutch with that bell housing! no need to get frustrated!;)

Yup, mine cracked..... in transit :mad3:

http://users.superford.org/ylobronc/engine/tranny/crackedinside.jpg

Got it welded back up for $100, been fine ever since.

Originally posted by fcfred
sometimes I think I need an easier hobby like frisbee or tubing

anyone wanna join my tubing club? "pirates of the wilamette"

I hear ya. I think the same thing somtimes. :laughing: