Has any body done a high steer on a early bronco,It is a 70 bronco, 351 w, 5 1/2" lift,using a f-100 2wd stering box.If so did you have any problems,clearance issues,track bar problems etc?I have a ford reverse cut 44 with chevy knuckles and the high steer arms on.I have not reamed out my arms or cut the factory mounts off my knuckles yet.I am doing a frame off,so the bronco is not complete but it is a rolling chassis now. I am at the point of buying my tie rod and drag links.Thanks

It shouldn't have any clearance problems with the track bar as high steer places the tie rods and drag link well above the factory track bar mount.

I would not bother with cutting the factory mounts off the Chevy 44 knuckles either. Most guys with EBs don't run high steer because you get bump steer due to the vast differences in length and mounting height between the drag link and track bar.

This is why I have not cut off my factory tie rod mounts on the knuckle yet just incase it does not work for some reason.This high steer project has been a a research challange since I cant seem to find anybody that has done this on their broncos before.Trying to mix chevy and ford parts to keep the 5 on 5 1/2 bolt circle.In fact I was talking to wild horses in stockton and I asked them and they said they have never seen it done before on a bronco.

Interested to hear if anyone has done highsteer on an EB aswell. I think it would be hard to do without getting alot of bumpsteer.

I think it would be hard to do without getting alot of bumpsteer.High steer is usually done when there is 5+ inches of lift. Since your moving your steering location up 3-5", why wouldn't you move the track bar up at the same time? (Also on some full size axles the mounting gets in the way)

So it sounds like the problem with the high steer is bump steer.And it sounds like the way to correct that is to keep the track bar inline with the draglink as you should.I have to either get a longer track bar or make a new mount on the axle because the mount is farther away on my axle which is out of a 76 f-150 than a stock bronco dana 44.It has been narrowed to a bronco width though and I am running a 5 1/2" lift as well.

So it sounds like the problem with the high steer is bump steer.And it sounds like the way to correct that is to keep the track bar inline with the draglink as you should.I have to either get a longer track bar or make a new mount on the axle because the mount is farther away on my axle which is out of a 76 f-150 than a stock bronco dana 44.It has been narrowed to a bronco width though and I am running a 5 1/2" lift as well.

Wildhorses sells this trac bar axle mount thats adjustable and stonger then the stock peice

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Trac_bar_riser/Trac_Bars

Just a question for ya... Why did you choose to go with the 2 wheel drive steering box? When I built up my EB approx 9 years ago, I used one, but it has been a regret of mine being that it hangs down really low off the frame. While you have the truck apart, you might want to look in to the 4 wheel drive box, or at least a steering box that puts the pitman arm closer to the frame so it doesn't hang low.

Just my .02

The main reason I went with with the 2 wd box is the price.The stock bronco 4 wd box is like 3 times the cost of the 2 wd box.I would like to use the 4 wd box also since it mounts in the stock location on the outside of the frame.Alot of people I know use the 2 wd box and like it.But in my situation especially with the high steer clearance issues hopefully I can use the 2 wd box.

Don't get me wrong, the two wheel drive box will def work. I have had no functional problems with it at all. I def recommend getting a brace to run across to the pass side frame though just to keep it from putting large twisting loads on the driver side frame. Next time I re-do my bronco I will probably look in to using the late 70's F-series 4 wheel drive box and changing out the internals.

Oh yeah, is that high pinion 44 you have full width?? I have the drag link and tie rod from back in the day with my chevy 3/4 ton TRE's just sitting around that I never used. It is set up for the Early Bronco stock dana44 width axles though. I don't really need it anymore because I found a 60 to swap in so I am just leaving the current steering until I do the swap. If I remember correctly the tube is 1.25OD x .812 ID if you're interested...

Thanks posbronc but I have the tubes already but no rod ends yet.I narrowed the full width axle down to a eb width.Thanks anyways

Trying to mix chevy and ford parts to keep the 5 on 5 1/2 bolt circle.In fact I was talking to wild horses in stockton and I asked them and they said they have never seen it done before on a bronco.

It is really simple... Use the Chevy/Waggy flat top knucks, spindle, caliper and caliper mount with the Ford F150 wheel hub, rotor and locking hub.

So it sounds like the problem with the high steer is bump steer.And it sounds like the way to correct that is to keep the track bar inline with the draglink as you should.I have to either get a longer track bar or make a new mount on the axle because the mount is farther away on my axle...

Yes, keep your trac bar and drag link as close to the same angle and the same length as possible.

Trying to mix chevy and ford parts to keep the 5 on 5 1/2 bolt circle.In fact I was talking to wild horses in stockton and I asked them and they said they have never seen it done before on a bronco.
What? Have they never seen a computer before either? :shaking:

As Tech Tim said, it's very easy and I know guy's who were doing this in the 80's.

:shaking: I still haven't figured out what purpose high steer serves on an EB...

It's simple, if you don't lift your junk so @#$%^&* high that it's unuseable, you never have steering issues.

Two areas where I see people lose their damned mind when it comes to EB's, cooling issues, and wanting to lift it to the sky, then bitching about why it overheats, or handles poorly.

:shaking: I still haven't figured out what purpose high steer serves on an EB...

Two areas where I see people lose their damned mind when it comes to EB's, cooling issues, and wanting to lift it to the sky, Yeah your right, why list it over 5", who needs a tire taller that 35" going to the mall anyways?

What about crossover or crossover reverse, any issues with this?

Yeah your right, why list it over 5", who needs a tire taller that 35" going to the mall anyways?

You can put pretty substantial tires on the EB with very little lift. I ran as large as 38" TSL's with 2" lift in the front and none in the rear, and a 2" body lift. Plan ahead, and you can get a little bit of stuff, and tons of droop out of your suspension, even using stock suspension configuration with quality springs and shocks.

Why folks want 5-1/2" lift to clear 35's is beyond me. It's a waste, and a whole lot of geometry headaches (caster, panhard, draglink, driveshafts, pinion angles, etc) It's just raising the COG for no reason, other than aesthetics, or an unwillingness to trim fenders for fitment (if you like a finished look, there's lots of nice flares out there, I chose to run without them)

If you're that concerned with BOA or belly height, buy or build a good skidplate.

As I stated before the questions I had was regarding clearance issues nothing to do at all with parts interchange mixing ford and chevy parts that was simple.I have seen a computer before MR N and that is where I got alot good info on your dana articles very good info there very helpful I saw your articles years ago.I will see what happens when I put the motor and tranny in to see where I need to build my track bar to.If it wont work i will put the steering back down to the stock location and go to the tie rod over knuckle set up.Thanks to everybody for there input.....