Here we go, a new F-TOY build.
Some of you know me, my name is Brett Porter,(although Mustard Dog refers to my by whatever obsenity rolls off of his tounge).:laughing:
Some of you don't care. I work at Western Fabricators as Lead Designer, and Production Manager, we are a production laser cutting
shop and general weldment job shop.
After a couple of years of researching F-Toys, and one year competing and wheeling the rig that I bought, I found a need to take
the Hendrix Formula Toy Chassis to the next level. I contacted Albuquerque Jim , here on the PBB, after I saw his interest in building
a rig. After many conversations he decided that he was ready to step into an F-Toy, and have me build it for him. this build-up will be
a Comp-Spec rolling chassis and I will highlight all of the details as we go, rather than lay out a "Master Plan".
Along with this build I will be developing a product line for F-Toys that will, hopefully, assist you in your project. Quite a few of
these items will resemble products that Hendrix already sells, mainly because I do most of his laser cutting:D, but I will never step on
his toes and "steal" or copy Hendrix products.
I am in the process of buying my Yellow Star, so I am not officially advertising or posting prices, but I will soon. This chassis
belongs to Albuquerque Jim and when I am finished he will be taking over the build thread, and hopefully not cutting off everthing
that I built. :laughing:

Here are a few pics to get started.

Nice! I'm no fabricator, so I'll buy all the :grinpimp: parts you, Hendrix, Dalton, or whoever can supply! I'm already digging the front crossmember/spring mounts and the rear chassis mounts/shackles.

Donald

I am not up to speed on what "EXACTLY" I can do or not do without a yellow star, but PM me and we'll talk. Thanks.

Some more detailed pics.

Damn, man, that's big pimpin! :grinpimp:

I love stuff that does dual duty. The chassis mounts/shackle hangers are almost as purty as your wife! :laughing:

PM'ed

Hey, that's mine...

As Brett stated, when I considered the F-Toy build I knew I didn't have the skills to do "everything". Brett contacted me after I posted my Build Planning thread cause he was considering building a "rolling chassis". We talked about options, worked out some plans, talked some more, added some things, and we continue to tweak the details on a weekly basis.

I can tell you that Brett is knowledgeable about F-Toys and Fabrication, easy to work with, and doing a kick ass job at putting together this build. I can't wait to take posession and literally start putting the rest together.:flipoff2:

Hey, that's mine...

As Brett stated, when I considered the F-Toy build I knew I didn't have the skills to do "everything". Brett contacted me after I posted my Build Planning thread cause he was considering building a "rolling chassis". We talked about options, worked out some plans, talked some more, added some things, and we continue to tweak the details on a weekly basis.

I can tell you that Brett is knowledgeable about F-Toys and Fabrication, easy to work with, and doing a kick ass job at putting together this build. I can't wait to take posession and literally start putting the rest together.:flipoff2:





Thanks Jim, I think that when I am "Official Vendor" I will hold a contest to see who can guess the correct numer of dimple died holes in your car. Remember I'm not done with adding plate work!:laughing:

Killer beads

Thanks Jim, I think that when I am "Official Vendor" I will hold a contest to see who can guess the correct numer of dimple died holes in your car. Remember I'm not done with adding plate work!:laughing:

:shaking:

we need more pics. this is going to be sick

we need more pics. this is going to be sick




Promise you more this weekend. Thanks!

bling fawking bling!!!!!

Very Nice!!!:smokin:

NICE!

those shackle/chassis mount thingy's turned out pretty cool

Makes your rig look too plain, Brett. You need to dump yours cheap and start over with something pimp like this:D

Some more detailed pics.

Nice, unique fabrication! :)

Brett PM a price on some shackles. Redoing a bunch of stuff and need some.

Nice work cum-guzzler:flipoff2:


It's really cool to see a support aftermarket growing for these rigs, it'll definately make for building a super clean rig much easier.

Ya, Brett has a cool way of approching the design aspect of these custom parts. He enters all of the information into his Solid Works program and designs a 3 dimentional part on the computer. He then lazer cuts it out of plate and bends it up in his CNC break. you can't see it in the pictures but he designs the parts to fit together like a puzzle so every part ends up being identicle without having to make jigs to assemble them.

VERY COOL!!

Damn..nice stuff Brett

Sweet looking stuff Brett, I like it.

I like it alot but it would be very hard for me to beat the crap out of it like I do my current parts.:D it's to nice:eek:

is it still ok if I call you dirty names? :confused: :emb:

Cool stuff. Me like. :D

:smokin:

is it still ok if I call you dirty names? :confused: :emb:







You can call me whatever you want, just don't call me!:laughing:

What's the chassis mounting height on that setup?

Noone has made a mention about it yet, but yes those are Hendrix motor mounts and Chassis mounts which are available on his website.

What you probably can't notice is that the chassis mounts on this build are modified to elevate the chassis above the frame 2 inches higher than normal. I can't say whether or not Hendrix will offer these, but I might just run a batch of them ,send them out, and bill his credit card.:laughing:

Jim Hughes is a pretty tall guy 6'4", so it will be a challenge to pack him into this rig. I started by elevating the bottom of the rocker tube 2 inches above the top plane of the frame rail. I didn't like the way it was sitting, so I actually raked the chassis nose down about 1 inch. We are going to lay the seat back a little so the drop on the front should give a little better visibility, wiht a fairly flat hood.

Noone has made a mention about it yet, but yes those are Hendrix motor mounts and Chassis mounts which are available on his website.

What you probably can't notice is that the chassis mounts on this build are modified to elevate the chassis above the frame 2 inches higher than normal. I can't say whether or not Hendrix will offer these, but I might just run a batch of them ,send them out, and bill his credit card.:laughing:

Jim Hughes is a pretty tall guy 6'4", so it will be a challenge to pack him into this rig. I started by elevating the bottom of the rocker tube 2 inches above the top plane of the frame rail. I didn't like the way it was sitting, so I actually raked the chassis nose down about 1 inch. We are going to lay the seat back a little so the drop on the front should give a little better visibility, wiht a fairly flat hood.

Interesting approach. I'm 6'0" and I don't even have my chassis to mock up yet, but the headroom is already a big concern for me. I'd like to see how this looks in person some time. Perhaps I'll wait a little longer till you have more cool stuff done to it for me to get ideas from.:grinpimp:

If things go right I should have alot more done this weekend. I won't get to the floor pan and seat mounting for a while but keep your eyes peeled.

Cool, you're going with the old hot rod stance. Those get better mileage cause they're going downhill all the time:flipoff2:

Cool, you're going with the old hot rod stance. Those get better mileage cause they're going downhill all the time:flipoff2:




Yeah I'm going to change to those big long adjustable shackles that all the cool Camaros had. You know, like John used to drive.:laughing:

Wheres my pm with a price?

Interesting approach. I'm 6'0" and I don't even have my chassis to mock up yet, but the headroom is already a big concern for me. I'd like to see how this looks in person some time. Perhaps I'll wait a little longer till you have more cool stuff done to it for me to get ideas from.:grinpimp:

Headroom is also a BIG concern for me. I'm 6'3" tall and I had my wife measure
the height to the top of my head from the seat bottom for me. It's 39" and
it's 40" from the bottom of the bottom chassis tube to the inside of the top
chassis tube. Looks like the chassis on mine will end up being appx. 3" above
the frame rails to get the 4" gap.

Headroom is also a BIG concern for me. I'm 6'3" tall and I had my wife measure
the height to the top of my head from the seat bottom for me. It's 39" and
it's 40" from the bottom of the bottom chassis tube to the inside of the top
chassis tube. Looks like the chassis on mine will end up being appx. 3" above
the frame rails to get the 4" gap.

Those are very close to my measurements. Since Brett is in CA and I am in NM this is somewhat of an educated guess...I'll let you know how it fits when I take posession.

Those are very close to my measurements. Since Brett is in CA and I am in NM this is somewhat of an educated guess...I'll let you know how it fits when I take posession.

Yours will be VERY different from mine, since mine's on a Jeep CJ8 frame with
a 350SBC/TH350/4sp Atlas II drivetrain. That really changes the positioning
of the seats compared to a Toy drivetrain.

Yours will be VERY different from mine, since mine's on a Jeep CJ8 frame with
a 350SBC/TH350/4sp Atlas II drivetrain. That really changes the positioning
of the seats compared to a Toy drivetrain.

Yep, a little different.

Headroom is also a BIG concern for me. I'm 6'3" tall and I had my wife measure
the height to the top of my head from the seat bottom for me. It's 39" and
it's 40" from the bottom of the bottom chassis tube to the inside of the top
chassis tube. Looks like the chassis on mine will end up being appx. 3" above
the frame rails to get the 4" gap.

Gary, you might consider notching the drivers seat into the frame rail an inch or 2. This will keep you from having to mount the chassis soo high.

Jim Hughes is a pretty tall guy 6'4", so it will be a challenge to pack him into this rig. I started by elevating the bottom of the rocker tube 2 inches above the top plane of the frame rail. I didn't like the way it was sitting, so I actually raked the chassis nose down about 1 inch. We are going to lay the seat back a little so the drop on the front should give a little better visibility, wiht a fairly flat hood.

I wasn't sure this was legal. Guess I should have asked. I was seriously thinking of going that route with mine...I may still.

I wasn't sure this was legal. Guess I should have asked. I was seriously thinking of going that route with mine...I may still.






I'm not sure that it is. I'm on the F-Toy BOD I guess I should know.:laughing::laughing: Maybe John will chime in here and let us know.:D

As a future competitor....my vote is "yes"! :laughing:

As a future competitor....my vote is "yes"! :laughing:

I vote yes...:D

Update!


Rear inboard spring mounts are done and installed ( Well clamped in place) the weather didn't permit me to move the sandblasted frame from the laser shop to the fab shop, and no welding and gringing allowed in the laser shop!


Here are a couple of pics of the hangers before mounting.




Complete with fish plates for the inner plane of the frame.

Inboard mounts clamped to the frame and ready to weld.


These are not standard Hendrix inboard mounts. I had full intentions of using the Hendrix mounts, I figured why change a good thing. Stupid me I designed the whole rear section of this car to be the max allowed 29.5" inboard. When I went to install the hangers I realised that the Hendrix mounts only allow 33" spring center. I figured now was as good a time as any to design a mount to max inset. This pretty much completes "The Kit".

Very nice looking inboard mounts. Are those going to be available as a "kit" with the rear shackles?

Until I buy my "Yellow Star" (which will be this week)I am not allowed to say. But PM me and I will give you the low down. Thanks.

Me likey...a couple more go fast holes too :D

Until I buy my "Yellow Star" (which will be this week)I am not allowed to say. But PM me and I will give you the low down. Thanks.

I already have (well, about the shackles anyway), you told me to remind you in a couple of days if you didn't get back to me about the specs of them. :flipoff2:

Inboard mounts clamped to the frame and ready to weld.


These are not standard Hendrix inboard mounts. I had full intentions of using the Hendrix mounts, I figured why change a good thing. Stupid me I designed the whole rear section of this car to be the max allowed 29.5" inboard. When I went to install the hangers I realised that the Hendrix mounts only allow 33" spring center. I figured now was as good a time as any to design a mount to max inset. This pretty much completes "The Kit".

I may be wrong, but I thought the max inboard was the same as the front springs. Which is 29" o.c.

These spring hangers are beyond words! :cool2:

I may be wrong, but I thought the max inboard was the same as the front springs. Which is 29" o.c.






Yeah you're probably right. Oh well what's a .25" per side?

These spring hangers are beyond words! :cool2:

















Thanks for the compliments!

Yeah you're probably right. Oh well what's a .25" per side?

I was a little worried cause I made mine at 29". If you made hangers like that for me, theres no way I would complain about .25" per side. Your work is incredible!!!!

I think you should move to my area, and come be my new best friend!!!:flipoff2:

I was a little worried cause I made mine at 29". If you made hangers like that for me, theres no way I would complain about .25" per side. Your work is incredible!!!!

I think you should move to my area, and come be my new best friend!!!:flipoff2:




I don't have to move there, we can expand our friendship through UPS and the postal service. I send you parts, you send me money!:D:D

I don't have to move there, we can expand our friendship through UPS and the postal service. I send you parts, you send me money!:D:D

i OLE !

i OLE !





Good morning FAGMO!

i think i want to start building another ftoy just so i can use brett's parts...the build would go sooo much faster and look nicer. i am sure his parts are the cheapest but well worth the cost so i dont have to hunt down everything i need and spend 100's of hours trying to fab up the same thing and not do as good as job.:smokin:

i think i want to start building another ftoy just so i can use brett's parts...the build would go sooo much faster and look nicer. i am sure his parts are the cheapest but well worth the cost so i dont have to hunt down everything i need and spend 100's of hours trying to fab up the same thing and not do as good as job.:smokin:




Dang, it sounds like I have some people out there that I can hire as salesman.

well worth the cost so i dont have to hunt down everything i need and spend 100's of hours trying to fab up the same thing and not do as good as job.:smokin:

My sentiments exactly:D

Mandatory linked pic of the pedal bracket in 3....2....

Alright! I now have my yellow star. It is now time to legally pimp my goods! I have talked to a few of you through pms' and I want to thank everyone again for the compliments.
I would like to give an overview of the direction that I am going with this build. After coming to an agreement with Jim on the overall foundation of his Formula, I realized that I was NOT totally prepared to make this happen.:D It was on! A mad dash to design and put into production F-Toy parts. First the idea was to build and advertise rolling chassis, ready to go, and built to comp specs. The other idea is to design parts that will assist the garage fabricators in their rockcrawler build-up.
I have decided to make both options available, even though my prices might be out of reach for most( including myself), I will keep on developing parts for these ultra-capable rigs. Look forward to seeing more products soon, such as, pedal mounts, seat mounts, floor board assemblies, full steering column assemblies, trans mounts, winch mount plates, cargo racks, propane tank mounts, and standard sheet metal skins.
Most of these items will be implemented into this chassis, so keep your eyes peeled for some cool stuff! And remember that I will be advertising my goods and PRP seats in the Vendors Forum here on the PBB. Talk to you in a few days.

Brett,
I really am looking forward to seeing your development of all these new F-Toy parts. :)

Brett,
I really am looking forward to seeing your development of all these new F-Toy parts. :)

YOU ARE :eek: It's all I can think about.

I'm thinkin' about going with a paint scheme like the Toyota Formula 1 car. What do you think?

http://pics.montypics.com/albuquerque_jim/2008-01-08/1199860097_formula_1.jpg

After Brett does his magic the rest of the build plan is fairly "normal" from what I have seen...

22re EFI
5-Speed
Dual cases with 4.7 rear
E-Lockers F&R (I already had them) need re-geared
'83 axle trussed
IFS Rear
30 Spline Longs
Longs Hub Gears
ARP Studs
TG High Steer
ARP Knuckle Studs
Hydro Assist
ORS Harness
PRP's
37" MTR's

Almost everything on this build will be rebuilt with "new" parts (axles, t-cases, etc). The engine has about 40k on it and the trans has 15k on a rebuild.

I'm thinkin' about going with a paint scheme like the Toyota Formula 1 car. What do you think?

That's Hot! :D

White tubing with the red/white "flamework/flash" down the side skins?


You know, we're both faaaar too early along in our builds to be planning color schemes, but it's nice to have something to visualize at the end of the build.

That's Hot! :D

White tubing with the red/white "flamework/flash" down the side skins?

You know, we're both faaaar too early along in our builds to be planning color schemes, but it's nice to have something to visualize at the end of the build.

That's what I'm thinking...

I know it's early, but it does help to be able to see what you are shooting for.

YOU ARE :eek: It's all I can think about.

I'm thinkin' about going with a paint scheme like the Toyota Formula 1 car. What do you think?

http://pics.montypics.com/albuquerque_jim/2008-01-08/1199860097_formula_1.jpg

That's awesome, do it!

It's never too early to think about your paint scheme. I'm totally doing the "Ivan" theme. I was also thinking of painting my chassis tubes white and just having the stripes on the side panels and hood, but I'm afraid that the white tubes will get dirty too easy.

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/6873/1000001imgip9.jpg

The white tubes wont have time to get dirty cause you,ll scrape the paint off in no time

That's Hot! :D

You know, we're both faaaar too early along in our builds to be planning color schemes, but it's nice to have something to visualize at the end of the build.


Never too early mine is 90% complete and on the trail. I still cant decide what color to paint it. It really looks ok with rattle can black tubes and primer grey panels, dash, and roof.
I really do want to come up with something of a paint scheme.

White's easy--it's a standard rattle can color, and would be easy to touch up.

I was going to powder coat my chassis when done, but then I realized that touchup will be easier with a rattle can. I'll probably use black tractor paint for the base coat, and rattlecan for touchups.

White's easy--it's a standard rattle can color, and would be easy to touch up.

I was going to powder coat my chassis when done, but then I realized that touchup will be easier with a rattle can. I'll probably use black tractor paint for the base coat, and rattlecan for touchups.

I am thinking powder as well...still rattle can touch-up. With white I should be able to get real close. A cool thing about living in the dessert is rock rash doesn't turn to rust right away.

Not sure if I want more red or more white though? I think white will show off Brett's fab work better.

Well I have been racking my brain for several days now, since I started designing a trans crossmember. I have talked to several people about the best way to go, and had discussions with Jim on his ideas on what he wants out of his rig. This is not the easiest thing to do, by the way, I am walking a fine line here between trying to design some really trick parts and getting a customers rig to him in a timely manner.
The line gets even finer when you throw in the fact that the Toyota aftermarket is very small and trying not to totally "steal" someones design idea, it becomes very difficult to come up with something original.


I thought that I would pose a question for the opinionated PBB members as to what they think the best way to mount the T-case is.




I have two basic ideas that I would possibly build off of, keep in mind that as of now we are using stock motor mounts. That may change before this is over. The first idea, based on the motor mounts is a Budbuilt style mount that supports the case from the bottom with a factory mount. the second option is a Front Range style mount that uses the rear bolt holes of the housing to support the case.


I am not asking for this to be a pissing match about who has the better mount. In my opinion they both are killer. What I am asking for is your opinions or suggestions and maybe ideas on what you know of that is working well. Remember I am researching products to manufacture for the "Average" F-Toy build. This is not going to be THE perfect T-case mount for everyone.


I already have this ready to go, and no I did not order a Budbuilt mount, spec it out, and ship it back, like some Dirtbag!

Throw in some ideas.

For the Ftoy crowd don't plan on using the stock mounts on the frame because we move everything back and normally aim at flat belly. I like the Bud Built style mount on the inside of the frame rails. Just design some nice weld on mounts that the average welder can weld to the inside frame rails at the height he/she chooses. :)

Could you make a mount that includes both styles and also includes a cover for the rear output flange so we are werock ready with the rear driveshaft? Like extend the existing BB style mount back to the rear of the case and do a FROR style back there with a flange cover that is like what Ftoy #10 runs coming off the top of the FROR type mount?

No idea if this is a good or bad idea its just why not take the to awesome designs and make 1 that uses both? :)

I have always thought the Front Range style is better. A little more ground clearance is possible. I also think a fully belly pan like you have on #20 (well, it's almost a full belly pan...) is much better than the small Budbuilt style.
And with the Front Range type mount, you don't have to count on the belly pan to hold the drivetrain, so it's easier to build and work with/remove.

Also, sturdy motor mounts are a must. T-case mounts aren't strong enough by themselves to hold the entire drivetrain from shifting front to back. Stock mounts don't help out at all.

I had the stock mounts last go around, but this time I'm going with one of FROR's center chunks and making my own tabs. Stock tcase mounts are expensive to replace if you buy new...unless you use the rubber bushing style'd ones one of the vendors is now selling.

If you could make a decent belly pan that was light with lots of ribs and mounts for a front steady bearing, room for exhaust and lots of dimple died holes and .... stuff then you'd be on to something ;)

If you could make a decent belly pan that was light with lots of ribs and mounts for a front steady bearing, room for exhaust and lots of dimple died holes and .... stuff then you'd be on to something ;)

X2..........

I dont like the idea of using stock type t-case mounts. They suck even with two of them, and you loose ground clearance.

Pook nailed it!! T-case mounts/ flat belly pan/ carrier bearing mount/ an easy route for exhaust all fitting together nicely.... That would be sweeeet!:D

I have always thought the Front Range style is better. A little more ground clearance is possible. I also think a fully belly pan like you have on #20 (well, it's almost a full belly pan...) is much better than the small Budbuilt style.
And with the Front Range type mount, you don't have to count on the belly pan to hold the drivetrain, so it's easier to build and work with/remove.

Also, sturdy motor mounts are a must. T-case mounts aren't strong enough by themselves to hold the entire drivetrain from shifting front to back. Stock mounts don't help out at all.




I'm with you on most of those points and that was my original direction.
But from a manufacturing standpoint, you have to look at what is going to work best. And after thinking about it I don't believe that it will be possible to design an overall mount that would work for everyone. Every build is different. That is why Ellinger sells just the center plate.
But on my rig the full belly pan is a pain, when you have to drop the transfer case,especially now that it is all dented up, when you go to bolt it back up it doesn't fit.

This rig may end up with new motor mounts, and a trick t-case mount that is custom to this application.

What about something like this Brett. (this is my version of solid works:flipoff2: )

Has anyone tried building a mount with a strap over the tranny like they use on vw bell housngs, but for the toy trans ?

What about something like this Brett. (this is my version of solid works:flipoff2: )



Someone in the toy section is selling a similar mount setup.

Inboard mounts clamped to the frame and ready to weld.


These are not standard Hendrix inboard mounts. I had full intentions of using the Hendrix mounts, I figured why change a good thing. Stupid me I designed the whole rear section of this car to be the max allowed 29.5" inboard. When I went to install the hangers I realised that the Hendrix mounts only allow 33" spring center. I figured now was as good a time as any to design a mount to max inset. This pretty much completes "The Kit".

This stuff is soooo nice it's sickening.:bawling:

What about something like this Brett. (this is my version of solid works:flipoff2: )




Yeah,we talked about that and like you said, I need to watch out for it becoming to stiff at the case and turning it into a structural member. Aftermarket bushing assemblies don't really move like the stock one.
I don't know maybe I am over thinking this.

But on my rig the full belly pan is a pain, when you have to drop the transfer case,especially now that it is all dented up, when you go to bolt it back up it doesn't fit.

Is a full belly pan a pain altogether, or just for dropping the drivetrain? Would a 3-piece belly pan be better? Welded sides with a narrow (4RnrRick style) removeable center section?

What about something like this Brett. (this is my version of solid works:flipoff2: )

mine is mounted like this but with the bushings at the frame...I think you should a least do a 2 piece design(tranny mount and skid plate)...Then you have 2 parts to sell too :D

Someone in the toy section is selling a similar mount setup.
http://4xinnovations.com/pages/drive/casemount.htm

Guess what I'm doing!? My wife says that I needed pictures of me working, so here is what you get.




Thanks for all of the input and suggestions, I am now in full design mode, so I'll be like a hermit for a few days, and this thread will probably not be updated by me. So leave me alone!:flipoff2:

So THAT'S how you do it. VERY cool! I want one of those things, and I can barely use CAD lol

I'll be like a hermit for a few days, and this thread
will probably not be updated by me. So leave me alone!:flipoff2:

That's all well and good....but your wife is smarter than you...have her post updates and pics!!!

How about some pictures of you wife :flipoff2:.
BTW, nice side panel in the back ground. Those bead rolls are SWEET!

Very cool Brett! Where were ya with all the blingin parts when I was building mine?

I like the t-case mount you posted. It's very close to how I did mine. I went that route because I had a marlin skid that I could mod to fit between the frame rails, and then just make some mounts. Having a skid that was designed to fit between the frame rails would be way better than modding somthing up.

Nice work :smokin:

WOW!! Outstanding work!!

Jim, I knew you where getting the chassis, but I had no idea you where going this route. I guess you'll have an extra frame now :p You need to come hang out in the garage more and keep me posted on these things..Damn!

You hiring ? :D

Im sorry to be so ignorant. But, what is that tool?
Is it taking measurements to assist in some sort of CAD design?
I dont even know what it is and it looks awesome.

nice side panel in the back ground. Those bead rolls are SWEET!

I'm not sure how it got scratched though....never gets driven...bet you have a hard time finding it in your shop with all the shit piled on it :flipoff2:

I'm not sure how it got scratched though....never gets driven...bet you have a hard time finding it in your shop with all the shit piled on it :flipoff2:


:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:

Im sorry to be so ignorant. But, what is that tool?
Is it taking measurements to assist in some sort of CAD design?
I dont even know what it is and it looks awesome.



Exactly, it's a CMM, or digitizing arm. What I am doing is picking points on a parts geometry. As I am doing it the "points" are showing up on the laptop behind me, which then gets turned into a 3-D solid model.

Im sorry to be so ignorant. But, what is that tool?
Is it taking measurements to assist in some sort of CAD design?
I dont even know what it is and it looks awesome.


It's a romer arm. It's got a little probe on the end of the arm that can locate holes, features, or what ever you want it to and plot them out for you to be able to machine them or transfer them to another piece. We use them at the shipyard for laying out electrical cabinet foundation's. We romer arm the cabinet holes and then lay them out on the deck plate so we can drill them as necessary. Saves alot of time and setup. Very slick setup.

WOW!! Outstanding work!!

Jim, I knew you where getting the chassis, but I had no idea you where going this route. I guess you'll have an extra frame now :p You need to come hang out in the garage more and keep me posted on these things..Damn!

Yeah...this just started unfolding. This is beyond any of my original thoughts with the build. Brett contacted me with his ideas and we went for it. It pays to be in the right place at the right time. :D

I'm not sure how it got scratched though....never gets driven...bet you have a hard time finding it in your shop with all the shit piled on it :flipoff2:

Some of the shit fell down, that's how it got scratched.

How about some pictures of you wife :flipoff2:.




Here you go!

Exactly, it's a CMM, or digitizing arm. What I am doing is picking points on a parts geometry. As I am doing it the "points" are showing up on the laptop behind me, which then gets turned into a 3-D solid model.
I want one.
Im guessing, If I sell my first born I could get one????:laughing:

Well I spent some time on the computer yesterday. I have a decent start to a mount, at least something that I can mock up and make sure that we have seat clearence. Like I said it will be a tight fit for Jim in this car, but he says that his kid will be driving from time to time so we are making a compromise and running standard width PRPs'. After this mock up goes in I will start floorboards, seat mounts, and then mount pedals.


I wasn't going to post this yet, but I figured that I would get some input.

I want one.
Im guessing, If I sell my first born I could get one????:laughing:



Not bad, about 25 grand from Richard Petty Racing (Petty Enterprises) used, no software. They upgraded to the 150 price tag.

I like the model for the the T-case mount. The only thing that comes to mind is how will you handle slight differences in frame widths? One side or the other (or both sides) needs a slot for the bushing mount holes.

I like the model for the the T-case mount. The only thing that comes to mind is how will you handle slight differences in frame widths? One side or the other (or both sides) needs a slot for the bushing mount holes.



The outriggers you see are actually not going to weld directly to the frame. I just haven't finished the mounting brackets yet, the outriggers will bolt to brackets on the frame.

Easy. Ship it a tad long, and cut the end down to fit with a chopsaw!!!

Brett--any need to "horsecollar" this crossmember for overall frame/chassis strength? (Like AirRide's Ultimate Formula Four build--where he's got the 180º tube over the t-case output?)

Not bad, about 25 grand from Richard Petty Racing (Petty Enterprises) used, no software. They upgraded to the 150 price tag.

Tell the class what Petty Ent was gonna do with that thing:laughing:

Tell the class what Petty Ent was gonna do with that thing:laughing:




They had a pending contract to scan Boobies for a bra manufacturer!

I bet you're getting off on that.:flipoff2:

Easy. Ship it a tad long, and cut the end down to fit with a chopsaw!!!

Brett--any need to "horsecollar" this crossmember for overall frame/chassis strength? (Like AirRide's Ultimate Formula Four build--where he's got the 180º tube over the t-case output?)




It could be done. But here is the deal, look real close at his four seat build. The trans mount is actually more of a BudBuilt style, and because of the extra frame length for the four seat, that is only a frame cross member and drive shaft loop. I figure that I could do a dive shaft loop off of the mount plate, or a low profile crossmember.

They had a pending contract to scan Boobies for a bra manufacturer!

I bet you're getting off on that.:flipoff2:

It's all about the nipple pocket:laughing::p:laughing:

Well I spent some time on the computer yesterday. I have a decent start to a mount, at least something that I can mock up and make sure that we have seat clearence. Like I said it will be a tight fit for Jim in this car, but he says that his kid will be driving from time to time so we are making a compromise and running standard width PRPs'. After this mock up goes in I will start floorboards, seat mounts, and then mount pedals.


I wasn't going to post this yet, but I figured that I would get some input.
the drivetrain will have a decent sized rotational load on the those bushings. i know you are working with limited space, any chance moving thing mounting to the frame mount closer to the center of the drivetrain.

the drivetrain will have a decent sized rotational load on the those bushings.



I am hoping to eliminate some rotational load with a new motor mount design, instead of using factory mounts. I also want a little load applied to the bushings instead of putting so much load on the transfer case housing.

the drivetrain will have a decent sized rotational load on the those bushings. i know you are working with limited space, any chance moving thing mounting to the frame mount closer to the center of the drivetrain.



Here is a chopped up "Example Only" of another location for the bushings.
instead of so much force on the bolts, it will apply force to the bushings that will be sandwiched under the flat plate. This is all experimental we may end up with several different variations. By the way thanks for the input.

Sorry it's late!

I kinda liked FryDudes tcase cross member.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=178873&stc=1&d=1111718119 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3849513&postcount=149)

They had a pending contract to scan Boobies for a bra manufacturer!

I bet you're getting off on that.:flipoff2:

I'm soooo in the wrong line of work!

And...yes, yes I am!! :grinpimp:










So....do they scan them standing up, lying down, prone?

:flipoff2:

With Brett's designs and trick parts I bet somebody could get $100k invested in a FToy.:laughing:

With Brett's designs and trick parts I bet somebody could get $100k invested in a FToy.:laughing:

Don't go there...:flipoff2:

Don't go there...:flipoff2:

You get what you pay for. :flipoff2:

I'm really liking this build so far BTW. :)

Don't go there...:flipoff2:

So your wife/significant other is on the board too? :laughing::laughing:

Ok i'll leave that alone.

why build such a badass rig and not make it comp legal ?
just from my quick scan of the pics I see a few non legal items.

1. lowering the front hood or engine hoop 1"
2. rear springs mounts are out of spec.

seems with all the fancy measuring stuff you could have built it to spec.

Easy. Ship it a tad long, and cut the end down to fit with a chopsaw!!!

Exactly, that way people that aren't using toy frames, but toy tcase's in their buggies or whatever would also be able to use these. :)

why build such a badass rig and not make it comp legal ?
just from my quick scan of the pics I see a few non legal items.

1. lowering the front hood or engine hoop 1"
2. rear springs mounts are out of spec.

seems with all the fancy measuring stuff you could have built it to spec.

How do you figure?
The rear spring mounts are the same width as front 29.5" oc.
Or where you talking about somthing other than the width?

and theres no rule on how high the chassis is to be mounted in relationship to the frame. Lowering the front, could have been said as " I raised the rear up"

I dont think the front of the chassis was bent down like Wilson did on 004? That would be illegal.

How do you figure?
The rear spring mounts are the same width as front 29.5" oc.
Or where you talking about somthing other than the width?

and theres no rule on how high the chassis is to be mounted in relationship to the frame. Lowering the front, could have been said as " I raised the rear up"

I dont think the front of the chassis was bent down like Wilson did on 004? That would be illegal.

You are right Sean, it's totally legal. Camo just misread it.

I think tilting the chassis is an advantage. sure its not in the rules but depending on how you do it, you make the chassis and frame shorter. Gain visibilty, get rear tire clearance which allows a shorter wheelbase...etc. This is one of those things that I don't get. Everyone is saying this is fine but some of the other non specified things in the rules are not legal just because some one said so.

I think tilting the chassis is an advantage. sure its not in the rules but depending on how you do it, you make the chassis and frame shorter. Gain visibilty, get rear tire clearance which allows a shorter wheelbase...etc. This is one of those things that I don't get. Everyone is saying this is fine but some of the other non specified things in the rules are not legal just because some one said so.

I absolutely disagree, but please, start a new thread so we can talk about it without cluttering up Bretts buildup.

Theres a thread on the ftoy board. but we can start one here :D
Sorry for the O.T. post Brett :beer:

rear spring hanger location

from memory and jumpimg thru desing hoops to make it work I recall that to make the front spring hanger for the rear spring work to the rules spec the spring had to be placed right next to the frame. if you find my origanal thread you will see we that we had to have the nut on the inside of the frame to place the springs in the correct location to be the proper width.

I didn't like the way it was sitting, so I actually raked the chassis nose down about 1 inch.


I took that to mean they cut the front clip. Now if they are jsut tilting the WHOLE chassis then they are smarter then me....good idea

camo

I didn't like the way it was sitting, so I actually raked the chassis nose down about 1 inch.


I took that to mean they cut the front clip. Now if they are jsut tilting the WHOLE chassis then they are smarter then me....good idea

camo

That's exactly what they're doing....Tilting the entire chassis to give a little more headroom for a tall driver, while maintaning a good sightline:)

I didn't like the way it was sitting, so I actually raked the chassis nose down about 1 inch.


I took that to mean they cut the front clip. Now if they are jsut tilting the WHOLE chassis then they are smarter then me....good idea

camo



I am glad that you posted that. I was minutes away from posting some *sshole comment for you, but I figured that it would only hurt this build.:D

rear spring hanger location

from memory and jumpimg thru desing hoops to make it work I recall that to make the front spring hanger for the rear spring work to the rules spec the spring had to be placed right next to the frame. if you find my origanal thread you will see we that we had to have the nut on the inside of the frame to place the springs in the correct location to be the proper width.



I may be reading the rules wrong, but the rear springs are allowed to be moved in to the stock front width. Is that correct?

rear spring hanger location

from memory and jumpimg thru desing hoops to make it work I recall that to make the front spring hanger for the rear spring work to the rules spec the spring had to be placed right next to the frame. if you find my origanal thread you will see we that we had to have the nut on the inside of the frame to place the springs in the correct location to be the proper width.

They were built that way on yours because it was easier for Jason

Thank you all for the input. Just for clarification...the intent with this build is comp. spec. legal. I don't plan to compete in 2008 (I will need to dial in and learn the rig), but you will see me on the west coast in 2009 (maybe even late 2008). I hope we are staying within the rules. I think we're ok :D

I may be reading the rules wrong, but the rear springs are allowed to be moved in to the stock front width. Is that correct?

yes

By 2009 I hope we can run our own events out here. Lets get together when your rig is done.

Good deal! I hope to have it ready by this Memorial Day.

One thing that should be illegal for sure is.......























That quality of fab work.

You are making everyone elses look bad!!!!!:flipoff2:

One thing that should be illegal for sure is.......
















That quality of fab work.

You are making everyone elses look bad!!!!!:flipoff2:







It's alright. We haven't even tested the parts yet!:D


I keep telling Jim that he is getting the "Guinea Pig" build.:laughing:

Stock front is ~29", the way the #001 mounts were put it at about 31-32"


Brett, the mount looks good, even makes a support point for the belly pan. I kinda like the bushings in closer like that. Not quite as rigid, seems like it might make for less vibes.

I kinda liked FryDudes tcase cross member.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=178873&stc=1&d=1111718119 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3849513&postcount=149)

I ended up adding some bracing.

Good deal! I hope to have it ready by this Memorial Day.

So you will need to host a BBQ/work day. I work for food and I do have a cherry picker.

This thing is looking sweet. Looks like I won't be keeping up with you now. Dang I even did the SAC.

So you will need to host a BBQ/work day. I work for food and I do have a cherry picker.

This thing is looking sweet. Looks like I won't be keeping up with you now. Dang I even did the SAC.

Yeah, I will need some help to get it wheelin' by Memorial Day. I think it's doable though.

Hey brett, how much ya want for some of those cool rear shackels,,i need some for my F-toy.....:smokin:

Hey brett, how much ya want for some of those cool rear shackels,,i need some for my F-toy.....:smokin:











Too much!:D




Thats alright though, I don't want to be too cheap. $150 for the pair with 4 -18mm bolt assemblies and 2 -1.75 inch bushing assemblies. You can fab your own parts to mount them onto an existing crossmember, but I will be making a more universal mount for them shortly.

Nice! parts complete and with a price.

Strong & lite is hard to make, and isint cheap

I can usually only get one of those two, its either gonna be heavy or its gonna be weak. Sometimes Im able to make it both heavy and weak:eek:

Nice! parts complete and with a price.

Strong & lite is hard to make, and isint cheap

I can usually only get one of those two, its either gonna be heavy or its gonna be weak. Sometimes Im able to make it both heavy and weak:eek:

:laughing::laughing::laughing:

Well, got a little work done today.


This transfer-case mount is a little different than the first concept, but I figure that this is a lttle stronger and way more versatile

Here are a couple of pics. Then I will give all of the details.

BADASS!!!! I want one, how much! and I don't even have a gear drive case in my shit yet. :laughing:

When I made changes to the original concept of this mount I decided to sacrifice the idea of dropping the T-case down, without unbolting the outrigger mounts. I figure that the whole assembly can drop down by removing the outer four bolts.

BADASS!!!! I want one, how much! and I don't even have a gear drive case in my shit yet. :laughing:





Just wait I'm still posting!:D

This mount is multi-purpose.

It will also provide the mounting points for the belly pan.

That is awesome!

I did not take any pics but as is this mount is set-up to provide a flat belly.
I set it up to be able to be dropped down two inches, use the same skid plate, and possible squeeze in wide body PRPs'

If you look closely, even though I haven't gotten that far yet, I may be able to use a very similar structure ,forward of the back case, to help support the belly pan and give some mounting points for the floor pans.


There are very few clearence issues to deal with.

If I use a small diameter tube on the two piece driveline I don't think that I will have to notch anything, as of yet. I will get a Hendrix carrier bearing and go see Bruce at High Desert Driveline to see what we can make work.

Exhaust is the only item that I did not try to address in this mount. Mainly because I have seen so many different set-ups for the exhaust, and this item was designed to be somewhat universal.

Once I get the floorboards in and the seats mounted I will determine where the exhaust will run, and I may need to make some mods to the driver side of the mount.

are you going to make one for a truck too ? if you do I'll buy one this week.

are you going to make one for a truck too ? if you do I'll buy one this week.



Probably not. There are some "Conflict of Interest" issues there.

Probably not. There are some "Conflict of Interest" issues there.

So you make parts for someone in the industry who sells mini-truck parts? Ok, well tell them to market this design, 'cause it is killer and will do very well IMHO!

So you make parts for someone in the industry who sells mini-truck parts? Ok, well tell them to market this design, 'cause it is killer and will do very well IMHO!



Yes, and I am trying to stay geared more towards the F-Toy market and manufacturing parts for garage builders to use to complete their projects. I have no interest in marketing towards the mini-truck market, but if someone purchases my parts I can't control how they use them.

that came out nice.

that came out nice.




Thanks!

that does look sweet :smokin:

Your fab work looks great and I can't wait to see the finished product!

Yeah, I will need some help to get it wheelin' by Memorial Day. I think it's doable though.

Jim...Steve just sent me the link to this. Looks badass and I hope to see it on the Memorial Day trip.

Jim...Steve just sent me the link to this. Looks badass and I hope to see it on the Memorial Day trip.

Thanks!

I hope to see it on the Memorial Day trip too! :D

If Hobie is the booty fab king is Brett the king of bling?:laughing:



I wouldn't go that far. Even though it is pretty funny.

Plus, bling doesn't always mean that it will function, some of you "Guinea Pigs" will figure that out for me.:laughing:

I wouldn't go that far. Even though it is pretty funny.

Plus, bling doesn't always mean that it will function, some of you "Guinea Pigs" will figure that out for me.:laughing:

:flipoff2:

some of you "Guinea Pigs" will figure that out for me.:laughing:
:eek::laughing::laughing:

What material are you using for the shackles and the hangers? Little hard to tell. Nothing to reference off of. Hell of a nice build man, great ideas hope I can pull off something that nice. Great work.

What material are you using for the shackles and the hangers? Little hard to tell. Nothing to reference off of. Hell of a nice build man, great ideas hope I can pull off something that nice. Great work.




Mostly .125 & .188 mild steel. The shackles are a combination of both thicknesses and the inboard mounts are all .125 . The rear crossmember is 12ga. outside and 14ga. inside.
Thanks for the compliments ,and it helps to have a shop full of equipment at your finger tips.
Also, keep an eye on this build it should get pretty trick here real soon.

I need to find a bucket of money to fall in so I can drop my junk off at your shop. :(

I need to find a bucket of money to fall in so I can drop my junk off at your shop. :(




I'm totally ok with payment plans.:D
Let me what know if you're interested, you live so close I could go down there and break your legs if you didn't pay me.:laughing:

I'm totally ok with payment plans.:D
Let me what know if you're interested, you live so close I could go down there and break your legs if you didn't pay me.:laughing:

Well, I still don't even have my chassis yet, and I still have that 4runner for sale in my sig. When those things get resolved I'll let you know.

You going to the cleanup this Sat?

Well, I still don't even have my chassis yet, and I still have that 4runner for sale in my sig. When those things get resolved I'll let you know.

You going to the cleanup this Sat?



Not gonna make it.:(


Too many other commitments. My F-toy is torn down completely, so I can rebuild it for the KOH. And we still haven't even started building the ToolChassis that we are giving away at the race.:shaking:

Also, keep an eye on this build it should get pretty trick here real soon.


Good, cuz I am starting to get bored with all the plain parts and bland fab work:flipoff2:

What size hole/dimples are running in the crossmembers and shackles? What thickness is the tcase/ tranny crossmembers?

What size hole/dimples are running in the crossmembers and shackles? What thickness is the tcase/ tranny crossmembers?

Big enough and thick enough.:D

Just kidding, I believe the holes are 1.5, and most of the crossmember is .188.:D

Hey SteelFuser, there are more important threads and more important questions to ask if you're doing FToy research!!!! :D

Or.....call Brett up, ask him to build you a rolling chassis, and to start another build thread.....we'd all love to see what he comes up with!

MT4Runner, don't you worry your little heart out. This is all I have been reading for the 5 days besides working on my yota frame. Anyways I needed to know what size dimple die to buy:flipoff2:. Buying my chassis tonight. Talked to hendrix yesterday said about 3-4 weeks. Sorry for clogging your thread 80proof.
Your doing some great work, can't wait to see what you come up with next.

if there parts were available when I started mine I would've bought them. That tcase xmember is so nice. Buying prefabbed parts would've saved me at least 2 weeks on the build.

Thanks for the help guys. As long as Steelfuser keeps it too a minimum, I don't mind the questions. I would like to take it to PMs' or phone calls though.
Steelfuser, send me a private message and I will give you my ph #, you can call and ask me whatever you want.:D Glad you like my stuff!

I did not take any pics but as is this mount is set-up to provide a flat belly.
I set it up to be able to be dropped down two inches, use the same skid plate, and possible squeeze in wide body PRPs'

Have you thought about adding a tcase brake bracket/setup to this mount? Maybe just some bolt holes in the xmember and design your own ebrake setup that bolts to this xmember so it can be purchased as an option?

That would be really nice..

Today I had the opportunity to visit Brett's shop up in Hesperia. He has lots of nice "Bling Bling" machines! I would have gotten some great spy pics, but I was too awed as he spent the entire 1.5 hours telling me about the neat things they do there. :)

Thanks for your time, Brett!

Today I had the opportunity to visit Brett's shop up in Hesperia. He has lots of nice "Bling Bling" machines! I would have gotten some great spy pics, but I was too awed as he spent the entire 1.5 hours telling me about the neat things they do there. :) Now get back to work. :D

Thanks for your time, Brett!

Man I am blown away at the cool things that you guys have to say!

And here I was thinking the PBB was full of *ss holes. You guys are awesome. Thanks!

Man I am blown away at the cool things that you guys have to say!

And here I was thinking the PBB was full of *ss holes. You guys are awesome. Thanks!

OK everybody group hug:laughing::laughing:

Man I am blown away at the cool things that you guys have to say!

And here I was thinking the PBB was full of *ss holes. You guys are awesome. Thanks!

Don't worry Brett there is still plenty of *ss holes around :flipoff2:

Great work :beer::beer:

come on Brett I wanna see some new stuff:D

come on Brett I wanna see some new stuff:D

This build will be a little slow till after the KOH race :smokin:

Although, I'm still doing the boring stuff like:


getting diffs regeared
getting my T-cases together
pulling parts from my donor rig
etc.

come on Brett I wanna see some new stuff:D

:laughing::laughing:
Like Jim said, his build will be slow for another couple of weeks. But trust me my mind is still working on it.

Thanks!

I hope to see it on the Memorial Day trip too! :D

Jim - I just now saw this thread...very very cool!

This is a great build! I can't wait to see it in person and in action :smokin:

That tcase mount is trick...nice design.

Looking forward to the memorial day trip in Moab once again! Now I gotta find a way to keep up with you and Steve... :cool2:

Jim - I just now saw this thread...very very cool!

This is a great build! I can't wait to see it in person and in action :smokin:

That tcase mount is trick...nice design.

Looking forward to the memorial day trip in Moab once again! Now I gotta find a way to keep up with you and Steve... :cool2:

Thanks Westy...

Working with Brett was definitely a good decision for me.

Now if I can only get him to get back to work :flipoff2:

Thanks Westy...

Working with Brett was definitely a good decision for me.

Now if I can only get him to get back to work :flipoff2:



:laughing::laughing:God I can't even tell you how much I have been doing. Just not on your rig:flipoff2:. But my rig is finally back on its axles. I will put up some pics in the Preparation thread shortly.

I thought I would post my part in this project. I re-did the front axle and built the transfer cases. I am the destination in Tempe, Arizona that you will be delivering the chassis to and meeting Jim.

Front Axle:

http://www.sonoransteel.com/Hughes_Axle_Front.jpg

http://www.sonoransteel.com/Hughes_Axle_Rear.jpg

Transfer Case/Crawler:

http://www.sonoransteel.com/Hughes_TCase.jpg

Also I found the truck that the motor and everything else will be coming from. Here that is.

http://www.sonoransteel.com/Hughes_Truck.jpg

So now even the parts that Brett did not work on are in here as well and the donor vehicle.


ALSO: When you bring this thing over to Arizona, bring me one of those bottle bugs and I will buy it from you. Pick one that will go good with a blue Miller Machine.

Steve

Axle looks good :) No knuckle ball gussets?

I figure with the super trick stuff brett is doing that the axles would be diamonds or TG's.

This is going to be a nice rig.

Keep it up.

Thanks for posting this up Steve...

Axle looks good :) No knuckle ball gussets?

I figure with the super trick stuff brett is doing that the axles would be diamonds or TG's.

This is going to be a nice rig.

Keep it up.

It's still not too late too add gussets. As far as Diamonds or TG axle housings...it's a budget thing. I am not in a position to go that far budget wise. I think this will still be a nice build and very capable buggy with OEM axle tubes.

Remember, I am building this for a capable & reliable 4 seat family wheeler. It may see the occasional comp. but it is not intended to be a comp. only buggy.

It's still not too late too add gussets.

I have my doubts on those. Richard Stubbs was telling me why welding on the Dana 44 castings required something special, I have a call in to him to clarify that.

I have installed a few, but my buggy does not have any.

his buggy with 4 people and added gear is going to weigh more than ours. those axles need trussing front and rear and balls. they will be alot more prone to bend with all that weight in it.

X2 on the ball gussets. Toy knuckle balls are steel, weld away.

and while you at it remove the lower ubolt perch.

Thanks for posting this up Steve...



It's still not too late too add gussets. As far as Diamonds or TG axle housings...it's a budget thing. I am not in a position to go that far budget wise. I think this will still be a nice build and very capable buggy with OEM axle tubes.

Remember, I am building this for a capable & reliable 4 seat family wheeler. It may see the occasional comp. but it is not intended to be a comp. only buggy.

Jim - I have a set of Trail-Gear front axle gussets that need a home - if you decide to have gussets installed I can drop them off at Steve's.

Jim - I have a set of Trail-Gear front axle gussets that need a home - if you decide to have gussets installed I can drop them off at Steve's.

Thanks Westy, are you running these too?

Thanks Westy, are you running these too?

No, that is why they need a home.

ALSO: When you bring this thing over to Arizona, bring me one of those bottle bugs and I will buy it from you. Pick one that will go good with a blue Miller Machine.

Steve




Right on! At least one of us is making progress.:laughing:

I dont have the knuckle gussets installed...I bought them and planned to have Steve put them on but I decided it wasnt worth it to keep dumping money into the stock front axle. If you are jumping the rig or using it for comps then I could see where the gussets would be a wise idea. Mine has been fine so far w/o them.

If you are jumping the rig or using it for comps then I could see where the gussets would be a wise idea..


i think is a common misconception about comps. there is way less breakage at comps than the trail in my experience. i rarely take it out of double low and 1st and my arb's are off most of the course. comps are not hard on ftoys in most cases. if i were building a comp only ftoy, it would be weaker in areas to perform better than if i were building a trail rig ftoy. if i were building a trail rig only ftoy, i would gusset the hell out of everything and tubes everywhere for saftey and longevity.

I dont have the knuckle gussets installed...I bought them and planned to have Steve put them on but I decided it wasnt worth it to keep dumping money into the stock front axle. If you are jumping the rig or using it for comps then I could see where the gussets would be a wise idea. Mine has been fine so far w/o them.

One good roll on the trail can do your knuckle balls in.

Also shave off the diff drain plug. It'll either fall out or never come out after its been smashed to the point of leaking.

Also shave off the diff drain plug. It'll either fall out or never come out after its been smashed to the point of leaking.

x2 on this one. Drain plugs are the devil. If you are too lazy to shave it, weld it in there or it will definatly fall out on the trail.

x2 on this one. Drain plugs are the devil. If you are too lazy to shave it, weld it in there or it will definatly fall out on the trail.




Yeah, here you are getting yours "Patched Up".



Hey, who's the "Hot" chick?

Are the allen head plugs that marlin sells any better?

Are the allen head plugs that marlin sells any better?
Not much.

Pics pics we need more pics! :D

:smokin:

Are the allen head plugs that marlin sells any better?


That's what we are "fixing" in that pic

I saw one where they put the plug in from the inside , then welded it in from the outside. To drain replace the bottom 2 third member studs with bolts and remove those 2 first. Or you could just leave the studs and drain into a large pan when you pull the third.

More progress...

For electrical I will be running a Monster Harness built by Offroad Solutions http://www.offroadsolutions.com/index.htm

The harness will include:

Basic System:
Ignition
Accessory
Start switches
Main fusible link
Charging system circuit
Fuse panels

Additional Circuits for:
Headlights
Fr & Rr Turn Signals
Tail/Brake Lights
Rock Lights
Fr & Rr Winches
CB Radio
Radio Head Unit
Gauges
Fr & Rr E-Lockers
Fuel Gauge

A big thanks goes out to Mike and gang @ ORS for agreeing to partially sponsor the build :D

I will post pics when the harness is ready!

Brett and I met in AZ today and I took possession of my chassis and frame :D. I'll take some pics once I get home tomorrow...:D

Poser pic...

http://pics.montypics.com/albuquerque_jim/2008-04-14/1208204657_p1010590.jpg

Frame height is set at 24". The wheels and tires (37" MTR's) are there for perspective.

Pictures just don't do the work that Brett (80Proof) did justice. :smokin:

Now it's my turn to make some progress on this build. Thats the donor rig parked behind the trailer.

Get busy... Don't let any dust settle on it :)

Keep the updates coming.

Jim, I thought you where going to add a brace to the A pillar??

Jim, I thought you where going to add a brace to the A pillar??

I will, right now it's easier to get the seats and things in and out of the window opening without it.

Looks like the Hammers and AZ rocks was a blast! :flipoff2: I watched the vids. That was a nice line in the AZ Rocks vid...I thought you were goin over for sure (not sure which trail though).

Cant wait to see when you get some axles engine seats in the thing. Man do i want to still build a f toy

Eric

Springs are mocked into place...everything seems to fit nicely.

http://pics.montypics.com/albuquerque_jim/2008-04-17/1208492738_p1010436.jpg


Camera ran out of batteries and it got dark. More pics tomorrow.

That's it?!? Man you had better pick up the pace :flipoff2:

Oh and yes the trip was a blast, I thought the line was perfect, and the trail was Woody's Wash :D

thats sick....... :smokin:

Next week we get a pic of the front springs installed? :p You gonna build that thing on a trailer deck?

That's it?!? Man you had better pick up the pace :flipoff2:

I'm not gonna build it fast, I'm gonna build it right...plus the clutch is out of my 4Runner that's gotta come first...this weekend.

thats sick....... :smokin:

Thanks!

Next week we get a pic of the front springs installed? :p You gonna build that thing on a trailer deck?

Ha Ha...the fronts are in too. But that's as far as I've gotten. Gotta work on the DD this weekend.

As far as the trailer deck...yep, it's gonna start out on it. It was either a garage or an F-Toy. I figure I built my 4Runner in the driveway, I can build the F-Toy there too! :flipoff2:

Bummer on the clutch.. Just throw some parts at it with some Hubba Bubba and hope it sticks:D..
I know man, just hoping to see it on the trail soon and I'm pissed I had to move so i can't lend a hand :(

I'm not gonna build it fast, I'm gonna build it right...plus the clutch is out of my 4Runner that's gotta come first...this weekend.

Bummer on the clutch.. Just throw some parts at it with some Hubba Bubba and hope it sticks:D..
I know man, just hoping to see it on the trail soon and I'm pissed I had to move so i can't lend a hand :(

Plus I am putting a FROR Cross member in the Runner...so that takes more time (especially in a Runner with a rear heater and dual cases, not much room). But I shouldn't have any more motor mount issues.:D

I may happen to have a wrench day when you are here next time...:D:beer:

I may happen to have a wrench day when you are here next time...:D:beer:

I'll let you know when I'll be back :beer::beer::idea::nuke:

Flippen sweet hangers nice stuff!!!!:smokin: i hear some body picked up an F-Toy down in cali. at the comp for a killer deal.. then picked up some tires and beadlocks from Mark M.... send me a pm or hit me up like to meet ya..was busy when ya picked up the tires.....:grinpimp:

Hey man I live in Albuquerque and I plan on buying an F-Toy this summer. I would love to stop by and check out your build. Let me know when you will be working and I can swing by.

Thanks
Tyler

Hey man I live in Albuquerque and I plan on buying an F-Toy this summer. I would love to stop by and check out your build. Let me know when you will be working and I can swing by.

Thanks
Tyler

I wish I had more progress on the F-Toy...I put about 20 hours into the 4Runner this weekend.

Check your PM's...

More progress...

For electrical I will be running a Monster Harness built by Offroad Solutions http://www.offroadsolutions.com/index.htm

The harness will include:

Basic System:
Ignition
Accessory
Start switches
Main fusible link
Charging system circuit
Fuse panels

Additional Circuits for:
Headlights
Fr & Rr Turn Signals
Tail/Brake Lights
Rock Lights
Fr & Rr Winches
CB Radio
Radio Head Unit
Gauges
Fr & Rr E-Lockers
Fuel Gauge

A big thanks goes out to Mike and gang @ ORS for agreeing to partially sponsor the build :D

I will post pics when the harness is ready!

Glad we could help Jim!
Your project is really impressive and we are glad to be a part of it.

~Una

Looking good Jim. :grinpimp:

Man is anything ever gonna get done to this thing?:flipoff2:

Man is anything ever gonna get done to this thing?:flipoff2:

I hear ya...:flipoff2:

Man is anything ever gonna get done to this thing?:flipoff2:

Little updates...

The front is sitting on a mock-up axle. It looks like I guessed the ride height right with about 24" under the frame on 37's (planning for the weight of the drive train).

I just got my Off Road Solutions (ORS) Harness :smokin: This wiring harness is amazing, 19lbs of wire :eek: , high quality Cole Hersee switches, relays, fuse panels, and every wire is loomed. There is no way I could have spent the time to put this together from scratch. The workmanship is OEM quality and every detail is covered. Thanks Mike!

What no pic's? Geesh.

What no pic's? Geesh.

I barely have time to work on it, let alone take pics...

Plus, I've been prepping the 4Runner for a trip to Moab this week. :flipoff2:

Little updates...

The front is sitting on a mock-up axle. It looks like I guessed the ride height right with about 24" under the frame on 37's (planning for the weight of the drive train).

I just got my Off Road Solutions (ORS) Harness :smokin: This wiring harness is amazing, 19lbs of wire :eek: , high quality Cole Hersee switches, relays, fuse panels, and every wire is loomed. There is no way I could have spent the time to put this together from scratch. The workmanship is OEM quality and every detail is covered. Thanks Mike!
Not a problem Jim!!!

What no pic's? Geesh.
I can help him with pics of the harness... ;)

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd131/offroadsolutions/monster%20harness/DSC05697.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd131/offroadsolutions/monster%20harness/DSC05696.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd131/offroadsolutions/monster%20harness/DSC05695.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd131/offroadsolutions/monster%20harness/DSC05692.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd131/offroadsolutions/monster%20harness/DSC05688.jpg

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd131/offroadsolutions/monster%20harness/DSC05687.jpg

Very nice harness!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Man with my fab work and your wiring this is gonna be one sick rig.:laughing::laughing::laughing:

J/K I'm not that cocky.



Hey Jim when you get it done, I'll buy it back.:)

Very nice harness!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Man with my fab work and your wiring this is gonna be one sick rig.:laughing::laughing::laughing:

J/K I'm not that cocky.



Hey Jim when you get it done, I'll buy it back.:)

Not for sale Mr...:flipoff2:

Wow! Nice build!

-Ryan from PSI

Jim...any updates on the build?

I started a new job recently which changed the time I have available to work on the build. So I have more money, but less time. So I have purchased about everything I need to build it.

I have worked on it this weekend quite a bit. It's sitting on axles, wheels & tires, the steering is being mocked up, the fuel cell is mocked up.

It's time for me to bite the bullet and tear down the donor rig and get an engine & drive train in this thing. That's when I can start the floor and seat mounts.

Just curious if there has been any progress on this?

Brett, do you have a website that shows off the prices/parts that you build for these?

Its slow coming...

I am pulling the motor out of the donor this weekend if all goes well.

Just curious if there has been any progress on this?

Brett, do you have a website that shows off the prices/parts that you build for these?




Currently, no website, but I do have a price list that I can send you.

Springs are mocked into place...everything seems to fit nicely.

http://pics.montypics.com/albuquerque_jim/2008-04-17/1208492738_p1010436.jpg


Camera ran out of batteries and it got dark. More pics tomorrow.

Looking good. can you take a pic from the side. I got the same front & back rear spring hangers and I am trying figure out how far forward on the frame to mount the front one.

Completely depends on the springs you use.

For 2nd gen stock rears, you need to be about 46.5" eye-to-eye, or about 44.5" from front eye to shackle eye with a 5 or 6" shackle.

For 3rd gen stock rears (or aftermarket leaves based on these), you need to be about 49.25" eye to eye or about 47.25" from front eye to shackle eye, with a 5-6" shackle.

Maybe someone can weigh in on Marlin or TG leaves what spacing you should use for starters.

As with everything else, depends on your rig--tack everything first!!!!!!!!!!

Completely depends on the springs you use.

For 2nd gen stock rears, you need to be about 46.5" eye-to-eye, or about 44.5" from front eye to shackle eye with a 5 or 6" shackle.

For 3rd gen stock rears (or aftermarket leaves based on these), you need to be about 49.25" eye to eye or about 47.25" from front eye to shackle eye, with a 5-6" shackle.

Maybe someone can weigh in on Marlin or TG leaves what spacing you should use for starters.

As with everything else, depends on your rig--tack everything first!!!!!!!!!!

Definitely good words of advise. Measure, Measure, Tack, Measure.

Looks like he is running the same TG 5" springs I got as well. Hopefully he will post pics and/or measurements.