so i just pulled the motor out of my 77 chev and im droppin it into my buggy but i dont want to run carb so what the best way to us the same motor and still run injected with out droppin a bunch of cash is there a kit or anythin?
TEDO

so i just pulled the motor out of my 77 chev and im droppin it into my buggy but i dont want to run carb so what the best way to us the same motor and still run injected with out droppin a bunch of cash is there a kit or anythin?
TEDO

what is considered a bunch of cash to you???? performance or stock??? throttle body or direct injection........

Did you check Jegs? What about propane? I hear it is pretty cheap and as good as EFI

You can get a complete GM TBI system for around $300. I just put one on my blazer. Try E-Bay or your local u pull it yard.

Check your local savlage yards. When I was looking into a complete TBI unit the local GM savlage place wanted 400 for every thing, Computer to tbi throttle body. The most expensive part of the conversion was the wiring harness, They wanted more for the harness then the computer, tbody, dist combined. I ended up getting an after market one.

so what all does the kit come with and i heard that the heads are cut differently and thats why you can just drop a trottle body in well let me know what you think is the best way to get it done cuz im runnin out of time thanks

go to a junk yard and get the throttle body , computer, and harness or buy a aftermarket one and put it on your engine . they make adapters for the throttle body to put on old 4 barrel intakes . its fairly simple to do and if you need a harness for the TBI go to AFFORDABLE FUEL INJECTION they will hook you up .

go to a junk yard and get the throttle body , computer, and harness or buy a aftermarket one and put it on your engine . they make adapters for the throttle body to put on old 4 barrel intakes . its fairly simple to do and if you need a harness for the TBI go to AFFORDABLE FUEL INJECTION they will hook you up .

What he said. Here is a link to an adapter at summit racing.............http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TRD%2D2207&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Be aware that there is two different size throttle bodies(smallblock & bigblock).

Also be aware that there are three different adapters- One offsets the tbi to the front, one sets it in the center, and one offsets it to the rear of the stock quadrajet opening on your 1977 manifold. Mine needed to sit on the rear, over the secondary bores on the intake.

Check your local savlage yards. When I was looking into a complete TBI unit the local GM savlage place wanted 400 for every thing, Computer to tbi throttle body. The most expensive part of the conversion was the wiring harness, They wanted more for the harness then the computer, tbody, dist combined. I ended up getting an after market one.

my friend got a harness for $15 from pick-n-pull. converted it to be stand alone be himself.

so is it wrong to pimp my junk in your thread?? :D
got most of what you need except a fuel pump, distributor, and a computer reflash to disable the passlock.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=644608

what all do you got and how much are you lookin for?
TEDO

ok so give me a list of everyhting that ill need to get you got me all sorts of lost i build buggys not motors plz?
TEDO

LP for me, the BLUE FLAME:
400 should cover it bolts on ready to run in 37 min. flat, and i didnt know what i was doing....

i got a buddy that sells the setups.

you can get the tanks for $20 on craigslist, i got 4 new ones for 25 EA.

PM me if you need info

ok so give me a list of everyhting that ill need to get you got me all sorts of lost i build buggys not motors plz?
TEDO

For fuel injection you need a harness, ecm, tbi, and all the sensors that are on the engine. Don't forget the MAP which is on the firewall. Find stuff from an 88-91 IIRC, and from a vehicle that has the same size motor if you don't want to mess with chips and tuning. You also need a Fuel pump, o2 bung, and a little SES light for the dash. Grab the ALDL too. Put all your sensors on the harness, put the tbi on the motor, and run fuel lines. You need a return line, so if you don't have one in the tank already you'll have to install one. For fuel line I went to napa and bought some 3/8 and 5/16 brake line and a bender. TBI is 12-15 psi, and regular rubber line is rated at 50psi, so whatever you choose is up to you.

With an external pump mount it as close to the tank and as close to the bottom of the tank as possible. Run your 3/8 line to the tbi and be sure to put a filter in there somewhere. On my first tbi install I don't remember installing a filter. My second one I got some factory braided lines from a tbi and ran them from the motor down the frame and to a fuel filter. (like factory) If you don't get the factory lines you can go to napa and get some little bits with the correct flare to fit the tbi. On my first I ran hardline to the motor and rubber from there to the tbi.

I don't run the ign from the switch. Due to voltage drop I run all switched 12vdc thru the relay.

if you use a bosch style relay here are the pins:

30-12v fused input(should also hook up your org ECM constant 12v to this wire)
85- Gnd
86- 12vdc from ign sw(black wire that was hooked up to the coil +)
87- pink/blk, pink(ignition, ecm power)
87- red, white(injectors)

there are 2- 87 output terminals on the relay so you can use both.
There are several places the pink/blk branch off to.
I have also used a terminal strip and just run the sw 12vdc from the relay to the terminal strip and connect the other loads to it.

So to start out we will go right down the line in order.

A1- grn/wht- this wire is used to energize the fuel pump relay.
A2- not used
A3- not used
A4- gry- to EGR relay.(optional) This is a ground from the ECM to control the EGR relay.
A5- brn/wht- SES(service eng soon) light. This is a ground to turn on the light.
A6- pnk/blk- switched 12v from the ignition relay.
A7- not used
A8- orn- ALDL Serial data. This is your ALDL pin E data for your lap top.
A9- wht/blk- ALDL pin B diag mode. When jumpered to ground will set the ECM to ALDL diagnostic mode.
A10- brn- VSS speed sensor signal to the ECM (optional)
A11- ppl or blk- MAP sensor ground. See ECM ground thread.
A12- blk/wht- System ground. Can be tied with D1. Goes to engine ground.

B1- orn- 12v fused from battery. I use an inline fuse on this. It also ties into C16.
B2- tan/wht- Fuel pump signal from the relay. This one ties into several places, the fuel pump, the relay, and the ecm. When the relay is on it sends 12v thru this wire to turn on the fuel pump, at the same time it tells the ECM the fuel pump is on.
B3- blk/red- EST reference.
B4- not used
B5- ppl/wht- EST high reference
B6- not used
B7- blk- ESC signal This is the knock sensor signal to the ECM. The knock sensor circuit is optional. If not used, tie this wire to C14 the 5v reference.
B8- dk grn- AC signal. This tells the ECM that the AC is turned on. This can be used to set the idle speed higher when you turn the AC on. I use it to increase the idle when using the compressor for on board air. Same thing!! Just tie it to the wire going to the AC clutch.
B9- not used
B10-orn/blk- Park/Neutral sw. This is optional but I have hooked it into the park sw on the tranny. It tells the ECM when you are in Pk or N. It can be used to give a slight adjustment to idle speed when switching from park to drive and back.
B11- not used
B12- not used

C1- not used
C2- not used
C3- IAC- Idle air control
C4- IAC
C5- IAC
C6- IAC -The ECM controls the IAC motor. It adjust the amount of air that is bypassed around the butterflies to adjust the idle speed.
C7- not used
C8- not used
C9- ppl/wht- Starter crank signal. Goes to the small terminal of the starter. The stock scout wire is white that goes there. Tells the ECM you are trying to start the engine.
C10- yel- Temp sender signal
C11- lt grn- Map sensor signal
C12- not used
C13- dk blu- TPS sensor signal
C14- gry- 5v reference signal to map and TPS.
C15- grn- inj B ground signal. Most systems do not use this. It was used on some of the bigger engines to share the load of the injector signal.
C16- orn- fused 12v tied to B1

D1- blk/wht- System ground, ties to A12 and engine. See ECM ground thread.
D2- blk- Sensor ground. To eng.
D3- not used
D4- wht- EST control
D5- tan/blk- EST bypass. This is the wire that has a plug near the distr that you disconnect to set your timing.
D6- Tan- O2 ground to engine.
D7- ppl- O2 sensor signal
D8- D13 not used
D14- lt grn- Injector B ground signal
D15- blu- optional injector A ground signal
D16- blu- Injector A ground signal
And that's it.
If you sit down on your garage floor and have each sensor plugged into the harness, then trace each wire back to the ECM connector, you will be able to separate a lot of uneeded wires.
Once you have each wire identified and layed out, then you can set it up on the engine and start tailoring it to fit your engine.
Placement of the sensors will determine wire length. Most stock harnesses are plenty long and only need to be shortened or wrapped and bundled.
When I'm all done and it's running then I go back and reinstall the plastic loom over all the harness.


With this you should be able to figure out where your wires go, and which ones you can cut out. It won't fire up right away, you have to cycle the fuel pump several times to get the system primed, then it should start.

One other thing I didn't think about, you will probably need to grab the distributor and est while you are at it, I don't know how to hook it up to a HEI.

All the info I posted at the justih site is correct and I have additional data listed in the link in my sig on the BinderBulletin.
Might be easier to see it all in one place then to copy and paste it here.
Choice is yours, info is the same.

Yeah but some people seem incapable of leaving Pirate to find info elsewhere.

alright thanks man i think thats the way to go but ya ill check out your site and give it a final run down before i make my choice.
thanks guys