Ox Trax – New Shifter Assembly Installation and Assessment

Note: Date of this document is 06/30/2002. Please check for updates to this document at

http://home.att.net/~email.id/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html


After installing three of the new Ox Locker Shifters I have to say up front, the Ox Trax folks got this right!!!

This is impressive folks, in machining, design and operations.

There are virtually no real adjustments with this new design. It is simple to install and presents you with an easy to use, spring-loaded movement of the shifter to engage the Ox Locker.

I can’t imagine anyone who can read a few simple directions having any difficulty installing or using the New Ox Locker Shifter.

1. Can you put two drops of medium strength Loctite on a set of threads?
2. Can you measure ½ inch between two parts?
3. Can you turn one threaded part on until it is just touching another part?

If yes, then you have the ability to adjust and install the New Ox Shifter successfully.

It truly is that simple folks.



Directions:

The new Ox Shifter Assembly comes with one page of instructions having five steps.

These worked just fine for me, but I do believe there is some opportunity to improve on the instructions a bit.

The instructions I have appear to be written for someone doing a completely new Ox Locker installation. They do not address a few things you will need to take care of if all you are doing is replacing your original Ox Shifter Assembly with the new assembly.

I also believe adding a few arrows and labels on the pictures to identify which parts are being addressed would be helpful.

With that said, here is my version of the installation instructions on “How to replace an existing Ox Shifter Assembly with the newly designed assembly.” (With pictures, arrows, labels and even my hand!)



Pre-install Instructions:

The instructions that come with the shifter tell you up front,

“The installation of the shifter should be done after the cover is on the differential. Make sure you have already routed the cable and placed it near to where you are going to install it permanently.”



My Additional Recommendations:

Set Screw

If you are going to be replacing your original shifter assembly with the new one, you will need to take the old shifter out.

Do you remember that little nylon set screw inside the shifter cross pin?

Make sure you loosen this first, before attempting to unscrew the shifter assembly from the cable. If you don’t you will end up unscrewing the inner cable rod from the shift fork inside the differential because the inner cable will turn along with the original shifter assembly you are trying to take out.

(Trust me on this, experience talking! I forgot to do this on the first unit.)


Loctite Inner Cable Rod

If you are not sure you have two and only two threads protruding from the inner cable rod through the shifter fork inside the differential, and you have not already put Loctite on these threads, do it now.

Do it right!

This is purely my advice.

Take the differential cover off, and remove the cable assembly.

Clean up the threads of the inner cable rod and shift fork inside the cover with brake cleaning fluid and let it evaporate.

Then apply two drops of medium strength Loctite to the threads of the inner cable rod and screw it into the shift fork. Make sure two threads are protruding past the end of the shift fork slider.

Why do you want to do this?

Well, the shifter fork slider can and does rotate freely. It is not directly attached to the shifter fork, but rather is held in place with two large “E-Clips”. Over time, it can and often does rotate. This will cause it to thread in or out on the inner cable rod.

The medium strength Loctite will prevent this from happening.

Put the differential cover on and route your cable to where the shifter will live and you are now ready to install the redesigned shifter assembly.


Previous Spring Loaded Cables

Many Ox Lockers were delivered to customers with an optional spring that was fit into the differential cover prior to installing the shifter cable.

The purpose of this spring was to give the shifter a spring load effect when trying to engage the locker when the engagement cams were not perfectly lined up.

Those who did not install this spring installed a small metal spacer in the cover prior to installing the cable.

I would strongly recommend, if you have the spring in the differential cover, that you remove it and replace it with the metal spacer, prior to installing the new design Ox Shifter Assembly.

I Do Not Know as Fact that you must remove this first, but it sure does make sense to me. I believe there is potential for lost motion if you do not.

Just my opinion here, take it for what you think it is worth.



Shifter Installation Instructions

BE SURE to put two washers between the upper Shifter Plate and the lower assembly to compensate for the thickness of your mounting bracket, prior to adjusting the new shifter. Find washers the same thickness as the mounting material.

If you don’t the geometry will be off!


Here are some pictures to compare the original shifter to the new shifter. I have included some of my observations on the differences. There may indeed be other differences I have not noted.

http://www.dana60.com/daless2/oxside11.jpg

http://www.dana60.com/daless2/oxside22.jpg





http://www.dana60.com/daless2/oxbott.jpg


Here is a picture of the parts you are going to be working with.

http://www.dana60.com/daless2/oxpartss.jpg


The newly designed shifter assembly has three parts: the Main Shifter, the Loading Spring, and the (inner) Cable (rod) Piston.



Step One:

Put two drops of medium strength Loctite on the end of the threads of the inner cable rod and then screw the Cable Piston onto the Inner Cable.

http://www.dana60.com/daless2/oxpistonn.jpg


You want to leave ½ inch clearance between the end of the Cable Piston and the head of the Cable Housing.

Please measure this.

While I am showing a ruler in this picture I used a stainless steel radiator hose clamp, which measured exactly ½ inch wide, as a feeler gauge to get this measurement accurate. You might want to do the same.

Please be sure you get all the slack out of the cable.

Take a break for 10 minutes and let the Loctite set up.


Step Two:

Loosen the two lockdown screws around the swivel fitting until the swivel fitting can be rotated freely. (Not too loose folks, just until you can turn it.)

http://www.dana60.com/daless2/oxscrewss.jpg




Place the Shifter in the unlocked position, then place the Pressure Spring on the nipple at the end of the Cable Piston as shown in this picture.


http://www.dana60.com/daless2/oxa1.jpg



Insert the Pressure Spring, Cable Piston and Cable into the Swivel Fitting.

Turn the swivel fitting until it just begins to thread onto the outer Cable Fitting.


Step Three

You are about ready to make the only real adjustment required for the New Ox Shifter Assembly.

Turn the shifter assembly upside down so you can see in the bottom of the unit.

Begin to thread the Swivel Fitting onto the outer Cable Fitting. You will see the shifter Inner Piston begin to extend. You should also see the Shifter Forks, which are at the bottom of the shifter rod.


http://www.dana60.com/daless2/oxa3.jpg



To make this adjustment you want to continue to thread the Swivel Fitting onto the Outer Cable Fitting until the “Shoulders” on the Inner Shifter Piston are just touching the Shifter Fork.


http://www.dana60.com/daless2/oxa4.jpg





Shift the unit several times from unlocked to locked and back. Make sure the Inner Shifter Piston is still just touching the Shifter Fork.

When they are just touching, tighten down the two Swivel Fitting Lockdown Screws and the Outer Cable Lock Nut.

Please be sure you tighten the Lock Nut against the swivel fitting and not against the cable housing.


http://www.dana60.com/daless2/oxa5.jpg




You’re basically done!


Last Step:

All that is left is to mount the New Ox Shifter Assembly in your vehicle.

It mounts in exactly the same way as the original shifter.

You should have no problems mounting the new shifter in the same holes you had the original shifter mounted in.

Unscrew the knob, remove the spring load detent and spring, remove the two top plate screws and remove the shifter top plate.

Install the bottom of the shifter assembly and then replace the above parts in reverse order.

Then…….

Go Wheeling!



About the Author

My name is Frank, and I go by Daless2 on the 4x4 forums.


Folks I am a Jeeper, like all of you, nothing more and nothing less.

I have no affiliation with the folks at OX Trax, or any of their distributors.

That said, I would be remiss if I did not comment on my experiences in getting help from Ox Trax and the distributor I always work with, Drivetrain Direct.

Both have provided, in my opinion, outstanding service and support in resolving passed issues I have had in helping a few other Jeepers out with their Ox Lockers.

I have never had any problems with my own Ox Locker.
(But for one minor problem I caused when locking the cable lock nut down in the wrong direction. Clearly my error.)

To date I have helped other Jeepers adjust 30 Ox Locker (original) Shifters. All but one were adjusted successfully and stayed in adjustment.
(Read that, “The old shifter worked great but was a bit difficult to adjust”.)

The issue with the one unit, which I could not adjust properly, has now been resolved. One of the “E-clips” that holds the shift fork rod to the shift fork was missing.

Why? I have no clue.

What I do know is that I had that cover off 10 times (if I did it once), and I should have found this much sooner. (Sorry! Several blonde days in a row I guess!)

Last week I installed three (3) of the new re-designed Ox Shifter Assembles, and I have to tell you, this IS the way to go.

If you have an interest in replacing your shifter to the new design I would suggest you call the DEALER you purchased your Ox Locker from, and discuss how you can get your hands on one (or two if you have two).



Document Ownership

This document is being put out into the public domain. Anyone, may use this document (all or any parts) for the purpose of explaining how to install the new re-designed Ox Shifter Assembly.

This document can be downloaded in MS Word format from my rudimentary web site at
http://home.att.net/~email.id/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html

Please look on my web site for any changes I may make from feedback I receive from others.

I can be contacted at email.id@worldnet.att.net

I would be happy to answer any questions you may have, or include any suggestions you might like to offer.

Anyone who would like to host this write-up on your web site is welcome to do so. Let me know if you do so I can point folks to it.

Frank

Daless2

Nice Write up man! Very informative.

I'll host it on my site if you want. It would be my pleasure ;)

I couldn't agree more. The new shifters are a much better setup. I now have one of each and am wondering how expensive just the new shifter is?

They are a $49 dollar running upgrade through Drive Train Direct. They are currently on a one to two week backorder.

I haven't really had any problems with my old ones, but they sure are a pain in the ass to adjust...
http://home.earthlink.net/~jdrios/AA_0767_020.jpg


Jes

They are a huge pain in the ass to adjust. I had to remove the shifter when I dropped my tranny, and so the adjustment is now off and it won't lock. I'm hoping to avoid having to adjust it the old way, and somehow that's worth the $49 dollars to me :) OF course, they would be on backorder...

This is sorta off topic but does anyone know the exact cable travel of the Ox-locker cable assembly (with the new shifter)? I am trying to come up with a shifter for a crawler box (similar to the KluneV) for my LT230 transfer case. It needs to be remote mounted, fairly sturdy cable, and have about 1.1" (inches) of travel to engage and disengage the crawler box.

Here is a pict of the crawler for those interested (it slides inside the PTO outlet of the Land Rover LT230 t-case).

Thanks for any responses

Blister

ps. Can you buy a whole shifter/cable assembly without buying the locker? And if so, where and how much?

Btt

FR,
Dunno the travel but 1" and a little seems right. DTD sells cables separately and in different lengths. There will most likely be a number of used older style shifters for sale soon I'll bet. My buddy will have 1 I am sure 'cause he is fed up with adjusting it everytime he needs to remove it for something.
My bet is you can call DTD or Superior and get either model.
Good luck.

Originally posted by FrankenRover
This is sorta off topic but does anyone know the exact cable travel of the Ox-locker cable assembly (with the new shifter)? I am trying to come up with a shifter for a crawler box (similar to the KluneV) for my LT230 transfer case. It needs to be remote mounted, fairly sturdy cable, and have about 1.1" (inches) of travel to engage and disengage the crawler box.

Here is a pict of the crawler for those interested (it slides inside the PTO outlet of the Land Rover LT230 t-case).

Thanks for any responses

Blister

ps. Can you buy a whole shifter/cable assembly without buying the locker? And if so, where and how much?

Hi Blister (FrankenRover),

I just went out to my shop to measure the throw you can get out of the Ox Shifter Assemblies

The maximum throw for the Original Shifter Assembly is 9/16-inch.

The maximum throw on the newly designed Ox Shifter is 3/4-inch, HOWEVER this shifter is not physically attached to the cable in the new shifter. It pushers on the cable only (via a spring). Cable return is accomplished via the springs in the locker.

Perhaps one of the original style shifters can be modified by changing the pivot point, or add a belllcrank to get the additional movement you need. In it's stock format you will not be able to get anywhere near the 1.1 inch throw your looking for.

Frank

Thanks for the info on the shifters, that is very helpful.

Blister

ARB Switch instructions:
Hook up switch wires to compressor. Flip on to engage, flip off to disengage.

Ox. I just don't get it.

Originally posted by sethmark
ARB Switch instructions:
Hook up switch wires to compressor. Flip on to engage, flip off to disengage.

Ox. I just don't get it.


Now, now, Seth,.. stay on topic.

They are just trying to fix a problem that never exhisted, for hundreds of people willing to shell out more bucks to fix a problem that they dont have.

Hell, Ive always wanted to see one actually work, I may get my chance now.

Sorry frank I couldnt resist,...it all goes back to my philosophy of testing a product under extreme trail and comp durress before sending it off to the public for testing.

[snicker] See you at Johnson Valley

I digress:D

Originally posted by H8monday



Now, now, Seth,.. stay on topic.

They are just trying to fix a problem that never exhisted, for hundreds of people willing to shell out more bucks to fix a problem that they dont have.

Hell, Ive always wanted to see one actually work, I may get my chance now.

Sorry frank I couldnt resist,...it all goes back to my philosophy of testing a product under extreme trail and comp durress before sending it off to the public for testing.

[snicker] See you at Johnson Valley

I digress:D

Cant help but agree. :D

Ya, I suppose I should just get rid of my Atlas with those stupid levers and swap in something that's push button operated. That would be much better. :rolleyes:


:flipoff2: :D


Jes

Originally posted by H8monday



Now, now, Seth,.. stay on topic.

They are just trying to fix a problem that never exhisted, for hundreds of people willing to shell out more bucks to fix a problem that they dont have.

Hell, Ive always wanted to see one actually work, I may get my chance now.

Sorry frank I couldnt resist,...it all goes back to my philosophy of testing a product under extreme trail and comp durress before sending it off to the public for testing.

[snicker] See you at Johnson Valley

I digress:D


Hi Guys,

There is a lot of truth in the statement "Why spend money on a problem you don't have?" especially when the original Ox Shifter works flawlessly right out of the box.

Or at least the 33 units I have adjusted do. But then again, what do I know?, My experience is somewhat limited.

I think just about any company, and any new product can have problems from time to time.

When that happens it is nice to see them step up to the plate and resolve the problem, regardless of what it's cause (Installation errors, complexity, poor design, ect.)

Ox Trax is no different then any other company like that.

Take a look at Currie's High TJ Steering.

Would anyone question Currie's commitment to "fully testing a product under extreme trail and comp durress before sending it off to the public for testing?"

I wouldn't, yet it was re-engineered wasn't it?

Do you think this was a good thing or a bad thing? I think it was a Good thing myself!

Any new product, no matter how much testing is done, will sooner or later expose weaknesses which may or may not need to be fixed.

As for those folks who like to push buttons, you can make your Ox Locker lock via push button just like an ARB, and with no adjustments what so ever.

Mine works that way.

And if you would like your ARB to operate via hydraulics (Diff Gear Oil) that's doable too (No air what so ever, I mean why use all those extra air system parts that can fail.)

I guess the point is there are lots of ways to do the same thing. Pick the one you like, the one that works for you and meets your own needs and go with it.

H8monday, baring any unforeseen difficulties, like I stop breathing or something like that, I will indeed see you at JV. I really am looking forward to meeting you in person.

Frank

ARB instructions:

Hook up wire to switch, flip on to engauge, works fine, go out on trail, flip switch, hunt down electrical gremlin for 2 hours, fix electrical gremlin, flip switch, works fine for five minutes, hunt down air leak for two hours, flip switch, compressor fails, hook up bycilcle pump and make passenger maintain 90 psi for lockers, passenger walks home, create contained gasoline explosion to generate 90 psi for locker, drive forward fully locked for fifteen feet until out of locker requiring situation, drive home unlocked until carrier splits locking both rear tires at 45mph and sends diff chunks through rear end cover, scrap out truck and build Jeep with Ox locker and spool.


Okay, so the bicycle pump and explosion was thrown in for dramatic effect, but the ARB just has tooooo many things that can go wrong, lock up is dependant on switches, relays, wiring, complressor, seals, airlines, more seals, and a carrier with a bunch of small moving parts, true, many people run them without incedent, but many people are luckier than me. My Ox works fine, although I may buy a new cable, I bought my Dana 44 Ox when they were first released and mostly meant for rear application, cable choice was not available and mines a little short.

Originally posted by 4Bangler
ARB instructions:

Hook up wire to switch, flip on to engauge, works fine, go out on trail, flip switch, hunt down electrical gremlin for 2 hours, fix electrical gremlin, flip switch, works fine for five minutes, hunt down air leak for two hours, flip switch, compressor fails, hook up bycilcle pump and make passenger maintain 90 psi for lockers, passenger walks home, create contained gasoline explosion to generate 90 psi for locker, drive forward fully locked for fifteen feet until out of locker requiring situation, drive home unlocked until carrier splits locking both rear tires at 45mph and sends diff chunks through rear end cover, scrap out truck and build Jeep with Ox locker and spool.


Okay, so the bicycle pump and explosion was thrown in for dramatic effect, but the ARB just has tooooo many things that can go wrong, lock up is dependant on switches, relays, wiring, complressor, seals, airlines, more seals, and a carrier with a bunch of small moving parts, true, many people run them without incedent, but many people are luckier than me. My Ox works fine, although I may buy a new cable, I bought my Dana 44 Ox when they were first released and mostly meant for rear application, cable choice was not available and mines a little short.


ARB Instructions.

Install using modified wiring harness, stainless lines, and reliable air source.
Install onto 80 percent of all competition rigs in the country, and use with nearly flawless performance for years at a time.

OX instructions.
Install however the most recent set of instructions trys to get the adjustment correct.
Shine up the shiny diff cover to impress your friends at the parking lot before the trail, because thats the last time anyone will be impressed.

I would really like to see them used in competitions just to see if the stock spider gears would hold up to the abuse over time.


4 bangler, why would nearly every competitor in the US(who uses a selectable locking diff) be using the ARB in competition, if they were so unreliable.
Competitors will not use an unreliable product.
The proof is in the years of comp testing,....NOT in the shiny diff cover and a bunch of hype.
Go ahead and buy what you want, and buy as many modified levers as you need,..whatever. But dont try and start a war about which locker has the best record of tested reliability, you just dont have enough stats to back your claims,.....PERIOD....

Originally posted by H8monday


4 bangler, why would nearly every competitor in the US(who uses a selectable locking diff) be using the ARB in competition, if they were so unreliable.
Competitors will not use an unreliable product.
The proof is in the years of comp testing,....NOT in the shiny diff cover and a bunch of hype.
Go ahead and buy what you want, and buy as many modified levers as you need,..whatever. But dont try and start a war about which locker has the best record of tested reliability, you just dont have enough stats to back your claims,.....PERIOD....

You missed something.

When a dumbass installs an ARB. OF COURSE your going to have problems! An ARB requires someone with mildly competent wrenching skills to install properly.

I know more people running ARB's without incident than Ox. I'm letting that track record speak for itself. Ox is "ok" but if your serious about wheeling you'll go ARB. (Maybe, someday Ox will prove itself, it hasn't yet)

Originally posted by twaldher


You missed something.

When a dumbass installs an ARB. OF COURSE your going to have problems! An ARB requires someone with mildly competent wrenching skills to install properly.

I know more people running ARB's without incident than Ox. I'm letting that track record speak for itself. Ox is "ok" but if your serious about wheeling you'll go ARB. (Maybe, someday Ox will prove itself, it hasn't yet)


Well that same argument of Dumbasses could easily be argued for the OX,..and In fact, I believe that is probably the cause of most of the probs I have seen with them on the trails at JV.
However, as much as I would love to have another viable option. ARB, has not sponsored me with any products, so I am not committed to them in any way, (other than the fact that I have years of reliable service from the product).
But Ill be damned if Im gonna be the guinea pig and step up to the plate, only to be stuck on a side hill in front of a thousand spectators and potential, and current sponsors, with a locker that wont engage or isnt up to the strength needed for the task. Not to mention my gear Guru, snickers, and rolls his eyes, when someone mentions there "OX" is so awsome
If someone could convince me with action, instead of lip service on the dozens of comp courses across the country, then I would be the first to jump on the band wagon. Honsetly, I would not mind getting rid of the plumbing, if there was a proven alternative,...unfortunately there doesnt seem to be any other company willing to step up to the plate. (I have heard that Eaton will put there electric units, in some test rigs when the initial design and testing is complete, we will see).

My little recollection was merely meant for entertainment value, as I said, many people are running ARB's and having a grand 'ole time of it, but all those folks are luckier than me.

There is one fact though, hands down, the ARB has more potential for failure than the OX, they may not be catastrophic failures, more the little nuances that pop up in everyday trail rigs. Too many seals and leakage potentials.

You guys rip on OX for redesigning the shifter to work better, well that's a part of improving the product, I understand ARB improved there compressor since I had mine back in '93, hmmm, they must not have done their homework? I doubt it, more like they saw an area for improvement. Sounds like nobody that uses ARB's uses them as is off the shelf with the ARB compressor and plastic lines and original wiring harness anyway.

I too am curious to see how the spider and side configuration holds up in the OX, my ARB spiders and sides were fine, but the carrier exploded, perhaps due to 4Wheel Parts sending me a carrier with three bolts missing, then telling me to call ARB, and ARB sending me two different types of bolts, both different than the rest in the carrier, and telling me that either bolt will work fine. If you don't believe me, I can snap a pick this weekend of the greasy box of metal fragments that used to be my ARB.

I'm sure my lack of maintenance at the time had something to do with my ARB's performance, but I haven't touched my OX since I installed it, out of the box, unmodified, and it works fine, maybe not as instantaneous as an ARB, but I'm not in that big of a hurry, a slight jerk of the wheel and I'm in bidnez with my improperly adjusted OX. I could adjust it to work a little better, but it works and that's what I need it to do, I'm too busy keeping the rest of my junk going down the trail and having fun to worry about it, when it becomes a problem, I will address it.

ARB has an excellent track record, but I bet they have more failures than OX as well, why, THEY HAVE BEEN AROUND TWICE AS LONG. I'm sure when ARB was the new kid on the block some innovation hater said it will never out wheel my power-lok, but only time tells what works and what's for the mall. I agree that I would like to see some OX units in competition, but competition isn't everything in the world, it's just damn cool to look at. Stuff that works for competition rigs may not be the best thing for a trail rig that get rode way less hard but get put away twice as wet twice as often.

It all comes down to personal preference and usage. As I said, time will tell what works and what's for the mall crawlers, and who knows, maybe one day every single OX locker on the planet will spontaneously combust and all you ARB guys can laugh as I print this thread out and eat it through my back side crapping it out my mouth ala South Park.

Sorry for the rant, gotta go watch EROC competition video from this weekend and get a chubby.

Arron,
You still dont get the big picture.
Sure ARB's break and have ongoing improvements,..but ARB sponsors dozens of rigs at their own cost so that they can be continualy pushed and tested to the limits. They are tested in open and viewable venues where the public can witness the good the bad and the ugly, at ARBs expense,(both interms of dollars and reputation). This is what makes a company bent on having a good reputation, work so hard to keep their products as good as they claim.
Not throwing it out to the public, making your proffit, then waiting to see what happens as the environemt grow tougher, every other weekend. Only to charge more for the upgrades when the design proves to be,...uhmm lacking, lets say.
Now, granted, competitions are not the only place that a locker will beused, but it is a yard stick to measure any hard core piece of gear that is at least portraying itself as a bullet proof type of locker.
So if your trying to say that the OX is a great trail locker, but its sure no rugged competition locker such as the ARB or Detroit, than Ill buy that, and walk away from this argument right now. Personaly I have had no use for a moderate trail locker, since I blew up my 1st EZ locker, so I have no opinion on such lockers.
But if you wanna say that the OX is the next ARB or Detroit,..I laugh,..and say no they arent, or they would step up to the plate and start prooving it.
What you dont understand is that I really would like to see OX become what they already seem to have you convinced that they are. If they would participate with the big dogs it would be better fro all of us, including them,...provided their product could hang.

I dunno, to me this is like the Ford vs Chevy debate, to each his own, I never said that Ox would replace ARB or Detroit, no way in hell, it's just another option. I feel that it is a rugged trail locker, and think that it would stand up to the rigors of competition, but the engagement time would probably prove to be a disadvantage. Two big block trucks, one with OX and one with ARB doing front wheel burnouts High Angle driveline style would be a decent test of the durability, and I think the two would be similar in strength. I too would like to see OX sponsored competition vehicles. Maybe that is what the future holds, maybe not, but small-time innovators like the OX people are what keep this sport going in new directions. If nobody came up with new stuff, we'd all be running powr-loks, and new designs, whether good or bad, feed the creative minds out there and keep the innovations coming.

I just watched the footage of EROCC in Jellico last night and all I can say is WOW. Obviously there is no time in competition to fus with a locker that needs a little jerk of the wheel to lock up, but when I'm on the trail, I've got all the time in the world, and I like having a mechanical means of locking the front, just like I like having a t-case shifter rather than a push-button vacumm diaphram hoop-in-a-joop to deal with. It's just personal preference. If I was running a competition rig maybe I would run some sort of fast acting solenoid to actuate the locker, or maybe I'd run an ARB, who know's. Either way, I'd say the OX is in a different category than the EZ and other lunchbox lockers. I will continue to praise the performance I have had with my OX until it does something that warrants a different opinion. Yes, competition is an excellent test bed, but it's not the whole world, and some things that work for comp rigs would not be reliable for trail rigs and vice versa.

Let's not turn this into another Super 35 thread, and call it a dead horse.

Originally posted by Jes
Ya, I suppose I should just get rid of my Atlas with those stupid levers and swap in something that's push button operated. That would be much better. :rolleyes:


:flipoff2: :D


Jes

Bah who needs an Atlas anyways...pffft! :flipoff2:

Hey Jeff, (H8monday),

I think you have a very valid point about the Ox Locker not being proven anywhere near to the level that the ARB or Detroit Lockers have been proven.

There simply are not enough of them out there, nor have they been installed long enough.

But competition is not the be all, end all of proof. We all know that.

Time in the market place surely is. I would imagine, in time strong points and weaknesses will get flushed out.

Until then we only "have what we have" to make a judgment.

And what we have, in the area of "facts", are the experiences of those folks who actually use the product.

And while that is not the be all or end all of knowledge, I would imagine most folks would see this as having more value then speculation or opinion.


I am certainly not all knowing, but I think it is an accurate statement to say that; "The vast majority of all issues dealing with the Ox Locker fall under the category of Shifter Adjustment."

I don't know of a single unit that has blown up.

Does any one else know of any?
This would be of value to know.

I have no clue if the Ox Lockers will be or won't be proven under competition conditions, but I think that one is a bit pre-mature.

I would think the OX Locker would first need to be available for the D-60 as that appears to be the differential of choice for most competitive teams.

Time will tell, as will the number of installed units out there.

I have both an Ox and an ARB, and in truth for what I do I could be happy with two of either locker. Both have operated flawlessly.

Frank

Originally posted by H8monday




Install using modified wiring harness, stainless lines, and reliable air source.


....

Okay, I've got 2 ARBs, braided lines and reliable air source. I want to know more about modified wiring harness. What are the details?

Originally posted by Jason R


Bah who needs an Atlas anyways...pffft! :flipoff2:



:flipoff2:


:D



Jes

Originally posted by nobody20


Okay, I've got 2 ARBs, braided lines and reliable air source. I want to know more about modified wiring harness. What are the details?


Its really pretty simple.
Break out the schematic that they send with the locker,(mine, are in storage somewhere). You need to run designated fused (10 amp) power to the supply side of each switch, rather than having the power run piggy back from the switch before it. ARB in the interest of safety on the road, has designed their harness to supply power to the ARB switches, 1st through the compressor switch (when in the "ON" position), to the front locker switch, then (when that switch is in the "ON" position, it supplys power to the rear locker. So if any problem arrises in any of the upstream switches you will lose power to the switch.
By running an independent designated power to each switch you will eliminate that problem. The switches themselve are very high quality, once the system is simplified.
Good luck.

Originally posted by Daless2
Hey Jeff, (H8monday),



Until then we only "have what we have" to make a judgment.

And what we have, in the area of "facts", are the experiences of those folks who actually use the product.

And while that is not the be all or end all of knowledge, I would imagine most folks would see this as having more value then speculation or opinion.


Frank


Excactly my point Frank!
Since the locker is not being subjected to a fair comparison of lockers in the same catagory, through demonstrations on an equal playing field, then we can only use our personal observations, and experiences with the product.
As I have stated, I have personaly seen 5 units on the trail, and I have yet to see one operate propperly. This is not speculation or opinion.
If I were to use my better judgement, I would speculate that it was probably due to incompetent installs but that would only be my opinion.
So rather than speculate or opinionate, I must only use my observations that suggest the unit is not very reliable from what I have personaly observed on the trail.
But again, I am really not that interested in trail lockers, and with the OX, setteling in as more of a trail locker, than a high performance competition locker, I really should just back away at this point and let you discuss cable adjustments amongst yourselves.

However there is no reason to wait for a D60 version to be available to test it in competition. Many builder are now going back to, or staying with the D44 for clearance and wieght, now that the reliability is well within comp parameters with the use of Warn shafts, CTM joints, and a reliable full carrier locker.

Damn it Daless! Would you PLEASE group your ideas into paragraphs? You're really hard to read. It's like listening to someone with autism.

You can also run ARB's without electrics. Just plumb the lines into pneumatic switches and provide an airsource tank (CO2, Nitrogen, etc). Pretty foolproof unless the tank runs dry. I have had this setup for 2+ years without problems.

Billster

ps. Here is a link to some pneumatic switches:
http://www.gulfcoastrovers.com/all/switch/index.htm

Here is a pict:

Originally posted by H8monday
Its really pretty simple. Break out the schematic ......Good luck.

Jeff (H8monday),
Thanks for the info and taking the time to explain. I'll be making this mod.

So let me get this straight about the OX....

There are times when you must turn the wheel from side to side, or rock the vehicle forward and reverse, in order for it to engage???? You can't just engage it while making a tight corner or while having your wheels cut and stopped????


If this is the case in even a few instances then I see no practical use for it in compettion.

Well, mines like that, but I'm sure it falls under shifter adjustment, it works good enough for me and I've got better thing to worry about. I've seen quite a few ARB's that would not lock until the vehicle moved a little, kinda hard to enguage those teeth without rotating them at all. I think some sort of fast acting solenoid for moving the cable would put it on par with the ARB for engagement time, but the OX won't unlock due to a drop in air pressure. I'm not sure If I like the new spring loaded shift fork, if the cable breaks (unlikely, but anything is possible, they break CTM's don't they?), the front axle would unlock, I'd rather it be designed to hold position on it's own and only rely on the shifter and cable to change from one position to the other, I think the ARB would also benifit from such a design. Imagine only needing that burst of air to lock up or unlock and not needing maintained pressure to stay locked. I just like the idea of a direct mechanical link between the locker and the engagement device, less potential for failure. Same reason emergency brakes operate off cables rather than air pressure or hydraulic pressure or electrical current, that and the redundant system theory, the chances of bolt systems failing is slim to none. Perhaps an electrically (or pneumatically) shifted locker with an "over center" type mechanical actuator to hold selected position until additional input, with a manual backup system......ooooh.....if I only had tools....