OK I need a battery kill switch and saw the post recommending the Del City (http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/catalog?parentid=4877&page=1) one for $17. My question is does this just go between the battery and motor or what? I saw on the other recommended switches (http://www.magnumforceracing.com/flaming_river_battery_switches.asp) and they have some for battery + Alt. Can somebody school me on this?

Next Q. What steering wheel and quick disconnect do you all recommend? I'm a little on the hefty side so I know I have to get a removable setup and would like a little smaller steering wheel than the factory Toyota one.

Thanks.

Just wire your battery disconnect so that ALL of the power comes from it (ALL except your winch). The main thing that confuses people is the charging circuit. If you run the main charge wire from your alternator around to the starter, even with the disconnect turned off, the motor will remain running off of the alternator.
Just run the main alternator wire to the switched side of the disconnect and you will be good.

As for a steering wheel disconnect. Get it wherever you can find the best price, but make sure you get the "splined one" not the "octigon one". the splined one is WAY easier to take on and off.
I think I spelled octigon wrong:flipoff2:

I am also working on the cut off switch now. I was told at the local hot rod shop to install the cut off in the ground line from the battery. This seems too easy. Will it work?
I have the octagon type steering wheel disconnect and so far no issues with removal and install. Maybe time will change this.


Octagon
We really need spell check. Maybe we have it and I dont know how to access it.

I found an easier speling for the non-splined disconnects: hexagon.

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/wil-270-2017.jpg

:D

The hexagon quick disconnects I saw were ~$30 at SummitRacing.com, and the splined disconnects were $70-150.

Here's a splined one for $59...any good?:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=REB%2D270%2D8630&N=700+115&autoview=sku
I understand the splined disconnects are easier to engage and disengage, and may rattle less.

...but on my budget, I was willing to give the $30 coupler a try first.

I've had no issues with my hexagon disconnect, going on 2 years of use. It does have a very slight play in it though, enough to notice it anyways, but not enough to make angry.

I am also working on the cut off switch now. I was told at the local hot rod shop to install the cut off in the ground line from the battery. This seems too easy. Will it work?

Thats how I was thinking of doing mine. It will work. The only thing Im not sure of is wether or not the motor will run off the power from the alt. My brain isn't working, I cant come up with an answer to that.

EDIT: Thought a little more and I think the alt would keep the motor running. Everything would still be grounded and there would be power, just no ground to the battery.

What about this.
If I lose ground from the battery my propane solenoid should cut off effectively killing the vehicle?

EDIT: Thought a little more and I think the alt would keep the motor running. Everything would still be grounded and there would be power, just no ground to the battery.

Does a 3-wire Toy alternator ground through the engine block or only through the wiring?

My jeep (powered by Toyota) is running a master disconnect on the neg side of the bat. When I shut off the switch while running, it will kill the engine. This way also keeps the amps from runnig through the switch, just completes the circuit. At least that is how I understand it...may be wrong.:D

What about this.
If I lose ground from the battery my propane solenoid should cut off effectively killing the vehicle?I think it'll still cook a burger or two before it dies.

I've had the hexagon Q/R in my buggy since I built it. Just don't get it cocked trying to put it on.

Does a 3-wire Toy alternator ground through the engine block or only through the wiring?

Good question!

I thought about that also. If it grounds through the wiring the ground wire could be switched just like you would do with the charge wire. Id have to go poke around on an alt to figure that out, I dont know.....

What about this.
If I lose ground from the battery my propane solenoid should cut off effectively killing the vehicle?

If your alt and solenoid are still grounded to the frame and/or block it may not shutoff. The circute would still be able to complete to the alt.

I think you should try it out and tell us the verdict.:D
Switching gound would be ideal IMO. You wouldnt be pulling amps through the switch.

You'd still be pulling amps through the switch. The electrons would just be "going" the other way. The electrons don't magically disappear after they come out of a red wire.

But....if there are other ground paths (frame, block, etc.), then the ground conductor is huge, and they're very dissipated. And if that's true, then the switch would be meaningless. :(

Put it right off your + battery lead--that's why most switches are rated at 150A continuous and up to 1000A (starting). That said, too, it now makes a lot of sense to directly connect the winch. I would ASSume that you'd want to also run the + to the winch solenoids directly off the battery---instead of the disco--so you could winch with the power off.

I ordered the main disconnect from 12volt guy along with a custom panel :).

I ended up ordering the steering wheel and quick disco (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2065,176_Rim-Style-Quick-Release-Hubs.html) from speedway.

Thanks!

Damn, Speedway has some affordable splined QR's:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2059,176_Pin-Style-Quick-Release-Aluminum-Hub.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/eccStoreFront/product_images/900-949/910-32851_R.jpg

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2060,176_Steel-Pin-Style-Quick-Release-Hub.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/eccStoreFront/product_images/900-949/910-32853_R.jpg

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/4510,176_Push-Button-Quick-Release-Hub-Spline.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/eccStoreFront/product_images/900-949%204TH/910-32858_R.jpg
In hind sight...I think I'd have ordered this one, but I already bolted my wheel to my hex hub.

Wow...this one (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/1380,176_Push-Button-Quick-Release-Hub-Hex.html) is $10bux cheaper than the similar hex one I got from SummitRacing. Thanks for posting the Speedway link, Jeep07!

How about running this for a disconnect switch, would this work?

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Battery_Switches-HELLA_BATTERY_DISCONNECT_SWITCH.html

It would work fine. Plus as an added bonus, it is seawater proof...since you have SO much seawater around AZ.:D

Cheaper than the last one I bought too, it was around $40.

How about running this for a disconnect switch, would this work?

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Battery_Switches-HELLA_BATTERY_DISCONNECT_SWITCH.html


I'm running on of those, but I also did this to for an easy kill switch. I got it at a hot rod boat shop.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/arizonaxj/F-Toy/kill_switch_2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/arizonaxj/F-Toy/kill_switch_1.jpg

If your alt and solenoid are still grounded to the frame and/or block it may not shutoff. The circute would still be able to complete to the alt.

I think you should try it out and tell us the verdict.:D
Switching gound would be ideal IMO. You wouldnt be pulling amps through the switch.


I will start the rig tommorrow and pull the ground from the battery and report back. I am running a GM one wire alt so no toy alt issue. I do have a ground strap from the block to the chassis. I may need to remove this also. (If Possible)

How about running this for a disconnect switch, would this work?

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Battery_Switches-HELLA_BATTERY_DISCONNECT_SWITCH.html

The Marlin Crawler F-toy runs that disconnect. It sucks! I'm on my second one and that one is starting to act up. Get something better.

A+ for speedway. From Nebraska to TN in 2 days but paid for normal ground shipping. :)

I'm running on of those, but I also did this to for an easy kill switch. I got it at a hot rod boat shop.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/arizonaxj/F-Toy/kill_switch_2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/arizonaxj/F-Toy/kill_switch_1.jpg

Pat,
Where did you get this one at? Do you know about how much?

The Marlin Crawler F-toy runs that disconnect. It sucks! I'm on my second one and that one is starting to act up. Get something better.

Great that is the one I bought several weeks ago.
It will do for now.
today was crazy busy so I did not get to pulll the neg cable. Hopefully tommorrow.

How about running this for a disconnect switch, would this work?

http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Battery_Switches-HELLA_BATTERY_DISCONNECT_SWITCH.html

As Desertoy has already mentioned, this type of cutoff switch is very unreliable. Any dirt or dust that gets inside will cause it to malfunction. :)