Need some advice on how to set my driveshaft angle on my bronco. I just fabbed up a new crossbar for the C6/Atlas and need to know how low/high I should mount it. I also need to know how to set the pinion angle on the rear axle. Its a 14 bolt with new leaf perches that need welding yet. everything is not finalized yet so I am pretty flexible on how I should set things up. Anybody have any advice or links to look at?

IT depends on whether you have a CV driveshaft or not. Each U-joint will create a vibration depending on the angle it runs. A Uijoint with 0 degree angle creates no vibration. In a CV driveshaft, the 2 joints at one end will cancel each other out so the U-joint at the other end should run 0 degrees. In a non-CV driveshaft, the U-joints at each end of the driveshaft should be running the same angle. This is the theory that should be followed when setting up pinion angle and transfer case height. It is very helpful to have a magnetic angle finder also.

I like to weld the spring pads on last.
Then cut them off and reweld them until its right :D

I planned on running a CV. I have beard that running a CV I can point the pinion at the Tcase output and be good to go. Will this work? A pinion at 0 degrees means parallel to the ground, correct? I would like to stay away from this option as I would like to get the pinion up out of harms way. What should my driveshaft angle be at normal ride height? Is a regular ujoint setup stronger than a CV setup?

Originally posted by clc900
I planned on running a CV. I have beard that running a CV I can point the pinion at the Tcase output and be good to go. Will this work?
Yes.

Originally posted by clc900
A pinion at 0 degrees means parallel to the ground, correct?
Yes.

Originally posted by clc900
What should my driveshaft angle be at normal ride height?
As small as possible.

Originally posted by clc900
Is a regular ujoint setup stronger than a CV setup?
With all else being equel, yes. However, since a CV shaft tends to lessen individual u-joint angles and vibratrions, a CV shaft iwould end up being stronger in most appplications...

HTH,

:beer: :beer:

quick rule of thumb- have the actual pinion angle 2 degree's down from straight on with the driveline to have a slight bit of angle keeps the needles inside from eating into the cross- most c/v's are stronger then stock single joints - if you have a 35" tire od better you might want to run a 1330- or 1350 series c/v on yours - Jess

Originally posted by billj

Yes.


Yes.


As small as possible.


With all else being equel, yes. However, since a CV shaft tends to lessen individual u-joint angles and vibratrions, a CV shaft iwould end up being stronger in most appplications...

HTH,

:beer: :beer:
You are going to get this guy all screwed up newbie.

The reference to 0* is the pinion to shaft relationship, not to the ground. If he puts the pinion parallel he is going to have some problems. If there is no CV, then the yoke/shaft angles at each end of the driveline need to be within a degree of each other. With the CV, it is like Jess said, slap the CV on the tcase, and weld the perches so there is a couple of degrees at the pinion. It would be nice if the springs were broke in, and the rig was at the final weight, or you will be shimming or rewelding the perches after a couple of joints.

Originally posted by Keith

You are going to get this guy all screwed up newbie.

The reference to 0* is the pinion to shaft relationship, not to the ground. If he puts the pinion parallel he is going to have some problems. If there is no CV, then the yoke/shaft angles at each end of the driveline need to be within a degree of each other. With the CV, it is like Jess said, slap the CV on the tcase, and weld the perches so there is a couple of degrees at the pinion. It would be nice if the springs were broke in, and the rig was at the final weight, or you will be shimming or rewelding the perches after a couple of joints.



lol sheeesh thanks for clearing that. i was like wtf? :confused:

some poor sole probaly just read the newbies post and is out there right now fawkin his angles up :D

Originally posted by Keith

You are going to get this guy all screwed up newbie.

The reference to 0* is the pinion to shaft relationship, not to the ground. If he puts the pinion parallel he is going to have some problems.

Sorry ´bout not making myself clearer... I was thinking of the absolute angle and not the relative angle, which upon re-read, seems more to the point.

Early "day-after" jitters from the World Cup celebrations...:zzz: :beer: :zzz: :beer: :zzz:

:beer: :beer: (for the hangover)

Ok this is starting to make sense. If I use a 1350 CV what is the max angle I should have at normal ride height. The problem is to much lift on a short wheelbase (EB) rig with a little longer drivetrain setup. Anyone have Jess's number? :D Whats the max angle the driveshaft should be at? :rasta:

Seems simple to me.
Mount that stuff up as high as possiable, Then point the pinion on the diff at the t-case

If you make a lower tranny/tcase mount you will hate it, , an EB, not much can be stuffed up there, so just jam it up there and be done

I have a 3" body lift so I do have a little room. Right now the T/C output is above the frame rails. My drivetrain is a little longer than stock and my lift is at least 5-6 inches. This leaves my driveshaft angle at close to 25 degrees at ride height. Unless i am measuring wrong. :rasta:

Originally posted by clc900
Anyone have Jess's number? :

530-877-2875

dont you want to leave a few degrees to account for some pinion climb when you are on the throttle?

How I set mine is this:-

If the transfer output is parallel to the ground then to get equal angles then you run the pinion parallel to the ground to get equal uni angles.

If you rotate the pinion up untill it points straight at the transfer then you run a double carden at the transfer and a uni at the pinion.

What I do is keep rotating the pinion up a bit more untill the two angles again become the same so that I can run a standard U jointed shaft. This gets both angles less than running the pinion at 0 deg and also gets the pinion up higher than if I was running a single double carden setup.

Found a picture that sort of shows how mine is. Basically I run a normal DS and my pinion is rotated higher than pointing straight at the transfer.

I have never seen anyone else running them this way?? Why not?? This seems to work for me.

Sam

Originally posted by Strange Rover
Found a picture that sort of shows how mine is. Basically I run a normal DS and my pinion is rotated higher than pointing straight at the transfer.

I have never seen anyone else running them this way?? Why not?? This seems to work for me.

Sam

Actually it's a very viable way to run your DS...The problem is many are running with < 12" DS...

I discussed this with both Jess and Tom W. and they both agree that splitting the angel up is great IF you can handel the pinion angel.

Originally posted by JR
I like to weld the spring pads on last.
Then cut them off and reweld them until its right :D

damn, I thought I had that technique patented

Hey Jess, if your still reading this please please answer my e-mail, I need a shaft very bad, my heap's been on jack stands for 3 weeks, I'm going through serious withdrawl...

chad

BTW it's my fault, not jess's, that the jeeps been on jack stands for 3 weeks, I just didn't get around to e-mailing him until last week

Originally posted by clc900
I have a 3" body lift so I do have a little room. Right now the T/C output is above the frame rails. My drivetrain is a little longer than stock and my lift is at least 5-6 inches. This leaves my driveshaft angle at close to 25 degrees at ride height. Unless i am measuring wrong. :rasta:

Yup, thats what mine is around, like 24 deg or so, Its fine, it needs a highangle, but if i droped it down, i would hate it, i too have a 3 inch BL

here is a pic i took a long time ago