Started cutting things off and the grinding began.

Heres it all tore down
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/tahoewheelers/dana70torndown.jpg

Pics of the massive drum brakes that are new and for sale.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/tahoewheelers/dana70hddrumbrakes.jpg

Opened up the diff cover to find that the guy who sold these axles was not bull shitting about being completely rebuilt. This is the 4.56 gears and some kind of locker. He said it was a detroit but it looks like some kind of posi which I wasnt super stoked about.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/tahoewheelers/dana70rp.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/tahoewheelers/dana70locker.jpg

And the 70 HD has huge 35 spline axle shaftshttp://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n127/THEROCKGODS/jack.gif
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/tahoewheelers/dana70axleshaft.jpg

B2Krawler seems to think it was a dully axle due to long wheel studs. Im not sure on how to tell. Also, its going to be a really wide rear at a wms of 73". So going to have to run some 2" back spaced rims to suck it in.

Who offers an affordable full on disc brake conversion?

If this is a dully rear do I need to get a new standard dana 70 hubs on each side to retain a standard dana 70 set-up?

Lastly, can anybody identify the locker setup in the pictures above?

And I still have some grinding to do on the pumpkin. After 3 sanding discs my hands were pretty tired.

You can do a disc conversion for like $200 bucks, give or take $10. Buy a weld-on bracket from Ruff Stuff, buy K20 rotors, calipers, brake pads, and caliper pins, put rotors on hubs, mount your caliper (loaded with brake pads) on your weld-on bracket with caliper pins, find out where the bracket needs to fall on the tube, and weld it. By the looks of it, I'm going to guess that your bracket would fall on the hub side of your drum backing flange. Pull out the calipers and see what the OD is there, since it necks down. Mine necked down from 3.5" OD to 3" OD. The bracket is $38, and I think I paid something like $166 for all the brake parts. Good luck, post up questions if you have any.

Hardly a good picture of the brackets, but from what I told you, it's pretty straight forward: http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc116/336wheeler/unknown.jpg

Like a dana 60, with the 70 there are so many different variations (as opposed to toy axles, GM, and ford). A lot of the kits that claim to be bolt-on probably don't have the right bracket off-set. The easiest way is not to guess and just weld on a bracket.


BTW - sierravalley, congrats on your purchase. These are very nice axles - not much breakage goes on with them. Mine is the same WMS - WMS width of yours, with the spacers added (I'm running a DRW front so I spaced the rear out 5".) I'm running non-recentered H1s on 39.5 IROKS and outside of tire to outside of tire in the rear is right at 84".

The big spring that you can see inside the differential makes it look like a Detroit locker. Also, you've got backspacing backwards, if you buy 2" backspacing wheels you're going to be wide, if you buy 7" backspacing, like H1 wheels, it will be more narrow.

Thats a Detroit buddy, congrats.

The big spring that you can see inside the differential makes it look like a Detroit locker. Also, you've got backspacing backwards, if you buy 2" backspacing wheels you're going to be wide, if you buy 7" backspacing, like H1 wheels, it will be more narrow.

Good catch, I was wanting 2" for the front axle since its going to be narrower or possibly do some spacers. 5"-7" would be good for the back. I was considering H2 or H1 rims if I can find them cheap enough online.

You can do a disc conversion for like $200 bucks, give or take $10. Buy a weld-on bracket from Ruff Stuff, buy K20 rotors, calipers, brake pads, and caliper pins, put rotors on hubs, mount your caliper (loaded with brake pads) on your weld-on bracket with caliper pins, find out where the bracket needs to fall on the tube, and weld it. By the looks of it, I'm going to guess that your bracket would fall on the hub side of your drum backing flange. Pull out the calipers and see what the OD is there, since it necks down. Mine necked down from 3.5" OD to 3" OD. The bracket is $38, and I think I paid something like $166 for all the brake parts. Good luck, post up questions if you have any.

Hardly a good picture of the brackets, but from what I told you, it's pretty straight forward: http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc116/336wheeler/unknown.jpg

Like a dana 60, with the 70 there are so many different variations (as opposed to toy axles, GM, and ford). A lot of the kits that claim to be bolt-on probably don't have the right bracket off-set. The easiest way is not to guess and just weld on a bracket.


BTW - sierravalley, congrats on your purchase. These are very nice axles - not much breakage goes on with them. Mine is the same WMS - WMS width of yours, with the spacers added (I'm running a DRW front so I spaced the rear out 5".) I'm running non-recentered H1s on 39.5 IROKS and outside of tire to outside of tire in the rear is right at 84".

Thanks for the advise, I was planning on doing a weld on set-up. I will go check out Ruff Stuff and hit up Napa this week or next.

BTW, I got a hell of a deal on these axles. Dana 60 king pin front with 4.56 gears and was told it was open (havent got to that axle yet) and the rear is the dana 70 HD with 4.56 gears and the detroit. Both were completely rebuilt military axles that I was able to pick up for $1600 in a package deal where my buddy got a dana 60 front and 14bolt rear with 4.56 gears for $1400 that were rebuilt.

Am I going to have to replace the hubs that were on there or are they good to go with some new wheel studs?

Thats a Detroit buddy, congrats.

Thanks for the confirmation. That will make me sleep better tonight.

Would these be the brackets I need from Ruff Stuff 336wheeler?
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/bracket-dually-p-219.html

And whats a DRW axle opposed to the SRW? I believe mine is the chevy dually DRW. However, its in my buddys shop and he's headed to Hawaii tomorrow so I wont be able to take a look at it for a while but he wants everything ordered for when he gets back so I can put it together and get it out of the shop.

This is the rig that my dana 60/70 combo will be going under. Trying to keep this on a budget especially since I quit my job last friday. Plans are to do spring over front and rear. Still need to figure out how much outboarding I should do on the front and in the rear if I should inboard them for better flex? Probably just run some rancho 5000 shocks for now. Also, will have a track bar for the rear to keep it located. Plan to run 42" irocks on 17"rims. Going to comp cut the rear and do more tube work for the rockers.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d67/panclan/Twister/IMG_9322Medium.jpg

This is an 85 CJ 7 with an amc 360 v8 on 35's locked front and rear.

That bolt on bracket isn't the one you need, I'm pretty sure. The extra wide 70s didn't really come in too much, although there isn't anything wrong with that. Because they're a different width of axle than the usual 67" WMS, I doubt that those bolt-on brackets don't have the correct offset from the flange to the caliper. Just be safe with the offset, and cheaper than the bolt-ons and get a weld on. Get your mics out and measure the OD of the tube on the hub side of the flange, because I'd have to guess that your bracket is going to land on that side of it. There really isn't too much difference in the SRW and DRW axles, except the spindle is longer on the DRWs to help with the design of two rear tires displace load. I don't see any problem with running your existing hubs. Keep it on budget, get a deal on H1s (if the front is DRW width - 75.5" WMS width), run them stock, and get some Stazwork HDPE inserts for them. I wouldn't mess with inboarding the rear. I've seen plenty flex well enough with the springs right under the frame rails.

I am putting the same setup dana 70HD axle in my 78 blazer.

I grabbed the hubs off a 14 bolt SRW and put them on the DRW dana 70 HD I had, to gain an additional 2 inches of width to match my DRW Dana 60 front.

So...
If you didnt know, the 14 bolt and dana 70 hubs are interchangable...
I bought my weld on kit from www.diy4x.com.
You may have to ream out the K20 rotors as well, as the 70 is a little wider than the K20 rotors can fit... or you can buy reamed for you from Kert and diy4x

My DRW 70 is really wide..... It is going into the S10 I am building.

Here is a few pictures.....

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w253/Big91RustyBucket/89%20S10%20Pickup/CIMG0136.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w253/Big91RustyBucket/89%20S10%20Pickup/CIMG0137.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w253/Big91RustyBucket/89%20S10%20Pickup/CIMG0079.jpg
http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w253/Big91RustyBucket/89%20S10%20Pickup/CIMG0080.jpg

I too found a good deal on a chevy 60 front and a D70hd. Mine aren't as clean, but the price was right.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y3/GhettoFab75/Dscn2156.jpg

Mine came out of a dually. Rear hubs are the same as some 14bolts and I see no need to change them to run a single wheel if the width works for you. With 7" backspaced H1 rims the width works out perfect for me. If you can find H1 rims cheap thats a good way to go, but the tire selection isn't as good as the 17" rims.

I too would just use the weld on brackets. Look in the vendor section, I think ballistic or ruff-stuff makes a bolt on kit, but I see no need when you can just weld a bracket on for a 1/3 the price. To each his own I guess.

Sounds like you got a good deal, have fun!

Kevo

This looks like a pretty good weld on set-up from ballistic. http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Weld-on-Dana-70-caliper-brackets_p_27-1439.html

Pretty cheap as well. The HD 70 is 3.5" right? Cant measure mine as its an hour away and my buddy is in Hawaii.

This looks like a pretty good weld on set-up from ballistic. http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Weld-on-Dana-70-caliper-brackets_p_27-1439.html

Pretty cheap as well. The HD 70 is 3.5" right? Cant measure mine as its an hour away and my buddy is in Hawaii.

4" Tubes.

As I've been saying all along, the main tube OD doesn't matter. The tube necks down before the drum backing flange. The tube between that flange and the hub is what you need to measure! Your bracket will MOST LIKELY weld on there. That tube OD is what it needs to fit. I would suggest figuring out a way to measure it. Maybe get one of your buddies friends thats an hour away to measure it for you. I have 3.5" tubes on my D70-1SU, but it necked down to a 3.0" tube OD between the flange and hub - this is why I'm saying measure it!

fuck all that. Just buy the diy4x.com kit for the HD axles like i did and call it good. You take the hub off and slide the bracket on put the hubs back on. Center the caliper on the rotor that they supply to you and then tack the backing plate on. Then weld the piss out of it.

^Or not. I don't see why you would need a special rotor at all. You MAY need an 11/16th drill bit to accommodate for the extra shoulder width on the possibly 5/8th wheel stud with the K20 rotors. Sierravalley, just measure that OD and get the corresponding weld-on bracket. I don't think its necessary to mess with all the $140 kit stuff.

I put K20 rotors on mine. They fit right out of the box, no drilling necessary.

Can you use dana 60 hubs on a dana70 spindle??

Becuase it was cheaper to buy with the rotors. Autozone and everybody else where i live were selling them for 50 a piece, excluding tax. So when you look at it i saved some money.

Well Im up in Humbolt Ca chillen out so I havent had a chance to get over and measure my junk. I did call my buddy and he said it was a 4" main tube so most likely mine is the 3.5" tubes at the hub. Im gonna order some brackets today so they are there when I get back.

You're probably right about the 3.5" at the hub, seeing as how mine went from 3.5" to 3.0"... I guess it'd make sense for yours to step down half an inch as well.

I just took a little bit off the OD of the hub to allow ANY "standard" K20 rotor to be installed.

Let me see if I can find some pics...

Ah hell...looks like I erased them.

anyway, I would recommend having the OD OF THE STEP turned to match the ID of the Rotor LOCATING HOLE (the hole in the center of the rotor); it doesn't take much and that way ANY K20 rotor will fit, off the shelf.

That way you don't need to have "custom" rotors if/when you replace them.


EDIT:

JUST TO CLARIFY:

I reread this post, and I think it could be confusing:
I said I took some off the "outside" of the hub, I meant the "step" on the back of the hub (toward the differential) where the face of the rotor mates with the hub.

I don't think you could take enough off the hub to mount the K20 rotor on the front (Outside) of the hub.

Does that help?

I also had a 1/4" gap when I first set the rotors on the hub.
It was then I determined that I would need to remove part of that "step".

Are you putting your rotors on the outside of the hub? I guess I don't see what your having to turn on the hub to get standard K20 rotors to fit. I mounted mine on the inside of the hub with no problems and plenty of clearance around the hub. It went together like it was meant to be.:D
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y3/GhettoFab75/Dscn2474.jpg

BTW, my tubes are 4" and neck down to 3.5".

Kevo

I bought the ballistic fab 3.5" dana 70 brackets yesterday. Spoke to them on the phone and they said it would ship yesterday so should have them when I get back from the road trip.

Going over to Napa to get some prices and availability on rotors and calipers today.

Advanced Auto Priceton IN.
$ 23 ea disk
$ 15 ea calipers (came with pins)
$ 20 set pads
$ 7 ea seals 80 ford dana 70
Pick them up last night. I also got my Brackets from ballistic.

Are you putting your rotors on the outside of the hub? I guess I don't see what your having to turn on the hub to get standard K20 rotors to fit. I mounted mine on the inside of the hub with no problems and plenty of clearance around the hub. It went together like it was meant to be.:D
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y3/GhettoFab75/Dscn2474.jpg

BTW, my tubes are 4" and neck down to 3.5".

Kevo


I wonder the same thing. I put my rotors on tonight and there is like 1/4 or less space between hub , and rotor.

I think it will make more sense now.

Chris

I just took a little bit off the OD of the hub to allow ANY "standard" K20 rotor to be installed.

Let me see if I can find some pics...

Ah hell...looks like I erased them.

anyway, I would recommend having the OD OF THE STEP turned to match the ID of the Rotor LOCATING HOLE (the hole in the center of the rotor); it doesn't take much and that way ANY K20 rotor will fit, off the shelf.

That way you don't need to have "custom" rotors if/when you replace them.


EDIT:

JUST TO CLARIFY:

I reread this post, and I think it could be confusing:
I said I took some off the "outside" of the hub, I meant the "step" on the back of the hub (toward the differential) where the face of the rotor mates with the hub.

I don't think you could take enough off the hub to mount the K20 rotor on the front (Outside) of the hub.

Does that help?

I also had a 1/4" gap when I first set the rotors on the hub.
It was then I determined that I would need to remove part of that "step".

Need Pictures to understand this.

Check out the pic in this link:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=564234&highlight=70

I will try to explain the procedure, b/c I accidentally deleted the pics off my computer. :mad:

Someone said thye got the rotor on the back of the hub, but that there was a 1/4" gap between the outboard face of the rotor and the inner face of the hub.

The reason for this is the "step" in the inner face of the hub, where the DRUM is usually located.
The rotor has a slightly smaller ID than the Drum, and that "step" needs to be knocked down on a lathe.

I only ended up taking around .100" off the step.

SOME people have NOT needed to make this modification; If you mock up the rotor and if fits flush against the inside face of the hub, you are good to go.

Hope that helps.

chris

I will check mine out but not to sure I fully understand it yet.

I just ground mine down. The studs will pull it flush.

That makes a lot more sense now. My rotor sits flush on the face of the hub, but there is a 1/4" gap between the rotor ID and the hub OD.

I just ground mine down. The studs will pull it flush.

OR you will crack the flange of the Rotor...ask me how I know. :flipoff2:

Im headed down to the parts store shortly and was wondering what size wheel studs to get. I believe my buddy said 9/16 studs?

Also, is there a particular year on the K20 as the parts geeks keep wanting years and I told them there isnt one.

Just say '77 K20. I'm not sure if your D70 uses 5/8th or 9/16th studs. Why are you needing new ones? It appeared that there was nothing wrong with yours...

Well the 85 k20 and the 75 k20 were different models and then a buddy mentioned that some are 10 bolt and some are 44's. Thats why I was a bit worried to buy with out knowing better. He mentioned that the later model k20's in the 70's were 44s.

Well I now have all the parts and should be going out tomorrow to work on getting it all installed then it will be onto the 60 front with more grinding and torching.

Complete swap cost me about $150.

Well its all done, will gets pics on sunday to post up. Was a pretty simple swap (really simple!!). Right now I just have the brackets tacked in there since I dont have it ready to go under the rig yet. Get the dana 60 all cleaned up next week and hopefully get them installed not to much longer down the road.

That makes a lot more sense now. My rotor sits flush on the face of the hub, but there is a 1/4" gap between the rotor ID and the hub OD.

I had this problem with my 14B disc brake conversion. I asked on here and everyone said just press the studs in and they will locate the rotor just fine. Sorry I didn't like that answer, I need to have things fit and locate properly ( maybe because I am a machinist) so I turned up a spacer ring that pressed into the rotor, then bored it out to fit snugly onto the hub and locate the same as the drums did.

Hey keith, how's it going? been a while. I am doing an 8.8 in my heep right now.

Doing good Greg. You should be much happier with that 8.8 over the turdy five. Get it done and lets go wheelin before I tear mine apart:shaking:

Here she is all finished up and ready for install.

The axle infront of mine is a 14 bolt for comparison. Mines much wider.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/tahoewheelers/dana704.jpg

Calipars and disc brakes
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/tahoewheelers/dana703.jpg

And this bastard isnt light, however, you can move it pretty easy with a tractor.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/tahoewheelers/dana701.jpg

And after that was all finished up, I helped Shawn put Brians buggy back together after we painted the cage the weekend before.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/tahoewheelers/briansbuggy.jpg

Then we moved the dana 60 a bit closer to the shop so I can start work on that soon.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b53/tahoewheelers/dana60.jpg

http://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/190922-help-1-ton-axle-choice-fzj80-build.html

I too am swapping a d60/d70 under my truck (96 lx450). I am preparing to machine the hub to fit the 3/4t rotors. The magical rotors that dont require modification do not exist from all my searching

My rotors and calipers were for a 78 suburban 3/4 ton. I pulled the hub off and it went right over the housing with lots of room to spare. Plus wont be so wide with the rotors on the backside mounted.

My rotors and calipers were for a 78 suburban 3/4 ton. I pulled the hub off and it went right over the housing with lots of room to spare. Plus wont be so wide with the rotors on the backside mounted.

This could be great news for me. I dont want to machine the hub but I figure I could bolt the axle shaft to the hub and throw the shaft in the lathe to machine off the hub

I already baught some 75 3/4t chevy rotors and they dont fit

Just machine the inside of the hub...

It's the easiest thing to do, NOW whiel you have it apart.

Then ANY replacement rotor will slide on without any additional farting around.

Doooo it. :flipoff2:

Chris

This could be great news for me. I dont want to machine the hub but I figure I could bolt the axle shaft to the hub and throw the shaft in the lathe to machine off the hub

I already baught some 75 3/4t chevy rotors and they dont fit

Are you trying to mount it on the outside of the hub or on the inside of the hub. Mine didnt fit on the outside of the hub, thats why I tore it down and slid the rotors on the housing then put the hub and axle back on. Then we just put the rotors, calipers and pads together with the new bracket and tacked it into place.

I machined the lip off the hub this weekend. The rotor now slides on flush but its not a pressed on fit. I tried to get it perfect but there is perhaps 1/32" max play with the rotor on the hub. Does the rotor need to be a press on fit to the hub?

Then ANY replacement rotor will slide on without any additional farting around.

Doooo it. :flipoff2:

Chris

Ya cause it takes all of 5 mins to pull the hub and axle off per side:D

Looks good Sierravalley, I'm doing the same thing to mine right now. Just about to order the 4.56 gears and detroit. I got my axle for free and a DRW front 60 for $600. I have some SRW hubs on the way as well for the 60.

Nice Chris. Hey I need those front tube fenders still, I will pm you my credit card # tomorrow as it expired and I just got it today.

We did get the hubs turned down to accept the K20 rotors and then ran into a problem with the factory wheel studs:


I did go back into my shop today after measuring the Ford stock wheel studs (E5TZ-1107-B) at 9/16" and the rotor having a thickness of 5/8" for the wheel stud to pass through with a stud hole of between 9/16" and 5/8". I found the Dorman 641-4115 wheel stud to consist of a 9/16" X 18 thread, 2.580 long,.619" knurle and a 1" shoulder which passed easy through the rotor (which seems to have a 5/8" hole) and locks in the hub shoulder great. I'm not sure if looseness on the rotor holes in going to be an issue (9/16" shoulder passing through 5/8" mounting hole seems to mean there be could be a little play when applying the brakes as the rotor slaps back n forth to the mounting studs)> Is that why you meant some people have just gone to 5/8" studs to avoid that problem?