what the largest tire size you could run on a stock 2005 wragler axles i would like at least 35'' and it will just be a trail rig not crazy offroader

I run 35s on a stock 2001 30/44 with no breakage yet. but i do drive cautiously.

I second that. I ran that same combo for 8 years until now

I ran 32's on my 04 wrangler X, D35 front D30 rear No problem. I like to go further up the trail sorta speak and now I'm doin a D44 upgrade on the rear since bending the stock D30 axle. I also run a 3" trea-flex lift kit+sway bar disconnects. Depends on how you drive where ya go. Biggest issue is what your gearing is vs. what size tires ya run. If your runnin stock gearing+big tires your gonna have a really high ratio even in 4low. IF ya drive on the highway you"ll lose speed capability. For example when i had stock gearing in mine my top speed was like 65-70 and I had no 5th gear unless down hill or really level.

I ran 32's on my 04 wrangler X, D35 front D30 rear

I know you know this but the 30-35 the other way around!

ya i know it's the 35 rear axle I bent, just to correct myself.

I can't believe you have been running 35's with stock axles for even a year!!. I guess you take your Jeep only on the road and maybe some sand/trail once a year?

Deppending on what you plan to do. If you really want to enjoy the Jeep then you really need to upgrade those axles. If you don't want to upgrade then i would say 32's are the max you can go with Stock D30/D35.

a just trail rig is a dedicated off road only rig. But by what you said im assuming you meant mild trails and not rock crawling. If you drive easy you can get 35s to work, also what rear end do you have a 35 or 44? that makes a big difference. Your front 30 can take a beating but to much tire will kill it fast. Also the bigger tire you go the less you can use the skinny pedal without breaking things. Also are you planning on running lockers? that adds stress to axle internals which increases breakage.

a just trail rig is a dedicated off road only rig. But by what you said im assuming you meant mild trails and not rock crawling. If you drive easy you can get 35s to work, also what rear end do you have a 35 or 44? that makes a big difference. Your front 30 can take a beating but to much tire will kill it fast. Also the bigger tire you go the less you can use the skinny pedal without breaking things. Also are you planning on running lockers? that adds stress to axle internals which increases breakage.

x 2 on this....... there is a big difference between a D35 and a D44...... What axle is in your Jeep Juliang? If you don't know, order a Build sheet (it's free) and I'll be happy to tell you how to do it.

I ran a 30/35 in my YJ for years with 33s or 35s and lockers and 4.88s. Never had a problem, it was a dd and went wheelin quite a bit. Put an XJ44 in and bent the housing within a year.

The first trip I made on 35's (really only 33's that said 35 on them) with the stock axles ended with two broken axles.:shaking: Got the 60s when I got home.:smokin:

I've been running 33" on my stock D30&D44 for three years and no problem what's so ever and my foot isn't all that easy on the pedal.

javier

I'm going to agree with Jorge on this one and say 32's max for the dana 35. Hell, I swapped in dana 44's before going past 31's.

My buddy's junk. 33's, stock 35 rear with traclock, only been on mild trails maybe 4 times before it went boom. This was leaving his driveway, just made it into the street when he heard the POP.
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/704/101tomaxle1-med.JPG



CARRY SPARES, LOTS OF EM!

I ran a 30/35 in my YJ for years with 33s or 35s and lockers and 4.88s. Never had a problem, it was a dd and went wheelin quite a bit. Put an XJ44 in and bent the housing within a year.

Man I don't know where you wheel, but a d35 with locker and 35 inch tires probably wouldn't last 10 minutes in my part of the World. Interesting thing is locked d35 and 33 inch tires are common in FL and they don't seem to have the issues with them that we do. I was one a trail with a newly locked d35 and it didn't make it past the first hill we had to climb. :eek:

i killes super35 kit in 10 minutes with 31" at's.

My DD has a 30/35 on 33" tires locked in the rear. I have wheeled it for a year and not broke any thing yet but it will happen soon enough. I also wheeled a TJ for the past year with 36" tsl's with a 30/35 and only broke one rear shaft. I drove it very, very easy with a lot of caution. It did every trail at Flat Nasty, MO and Lower 2, upper 2 and Slick Rock at tellico with no breakage, but i do not recommend it I was just lucky. It was the only thing I had to wheel at the time.

with chromo shafts on the 30/35 combo i ran 35's for a few years... with no serious breakage... just the caps of ujoints walking out... taking out the stub shafts... i'm not easy on my junk either...

you don't need to drop 60's under your rig just cause everyone else does...

you don't need to drop 60's under your rig just cause everyone else does...

Not saying everyone needs 60's, but everyone who wheels a heep with a 35 in the rear should swap something else in its place. Dont regear, lock, alloy axles, or swap discs on a 35, its a waste of money. They are a known weakness plain and simple. 8.8's and TJ44's are easy enough to find and you'll be alot better off in the long run. The guy in the pic above, we just swapped a TJ44 in for the same price as a super 35 kit, which do you think is the wiser choice there?

The worst trails I ran with the 30/35 was slickrock, gaurdrail and schoolbus. That was stock axles, soa. I did have a four banger and knew what I had but it went about anywhere I tried to go.

The worst trails I ran with the 30/35 was slickrock, gaurdrail and schoolbus. That was stock axles, soa. I did have a four banger and knew what I had but it went about anywhere I tried to go.

The 4 popper helps....... the 4.0L don't fare as well.

I agree with kwrangln. I know the OP said that this wasn't going to be a hard core trail rig but many guys start off saying that and wind up doing more and more harder trails so they upgrade anyway. Granted going to d60's could be overkill but going to a d44 could save you in the long run incase you decide to run harder trails. You could get an d44 from a Wrangler Unlimited (from 97-2003) and it'd be a straight swap except they come with stock 3:73 gears.

I know several people running the 30/35 with 35's with no problems, YET, they are pretty easy on them also.

I agree with kwrangln. I know the OP said that this wasn't going to be a hard core trail rig but many guys start off saying that and wind up doing more and more harder trails so they upgrade anyway. Granted going to d60's could be overkill but going to a d44 could save you in the long run incase you decide to run harder trails. You could get an d44 from a Wrangler Unlimited (from 97-2003) and it'd be a straight swap except they come with stock 3:73 gears.

When I was looking for a replacement for my D35, I started by looking for D44 out of a Rubi. I found these axles to be way over priced for what you get and really not that strong of an axle. I ended up having an 8.8 built to my specs (Detroit & all the goodies) as a bolt in axle for my TJ. The built 8.8 is suppose to be just a hair weaker than a stock D60.

what about a 8.25 chrysler out of a XJ i have been thinking about putting one in my DD tj that gets alot of wheelin. They are pretty tough, probably as good as a 44 and are a dime a dozen, I have a couple of then. What do you guys think?

what about a 8.25 chrysler out of a XJ i have been thinking about putting one in my DD tj that gets alot of wheelin. They are pretty tough, probably as good as a 44 and are a dime a dozen, I have a couple of then. What do you guys think?

The 8.25 maybe stronger than a D35 but not a D44.

what the largest tire size you could run on a stock 2005 wragler axles i would like at least 35'' and it will just be a trail rig not crazy offroader

Right now I'am running 37" Creepys on a D30 27spline and D44 33 spline both have cromolys axles. So far I've broke only one front axle and I'm not easy on my rig.You should be fine with 35"tires on stock axles.

This Topic has been beat mercilously since the beginning of time.

I ran a locked 30/35 combo with 35s for about 2 years with no breakage. I did all the trails, climbs etc that the jeep could handle (suspension wise). Same as the guys with 60s. The end all be all is you are not going to just drive, bounce, hop, or power yoiur way thru and over obstacles like u could if u had a set of 60s. Driving the 30/35 combo takes ALOT of finese. As a matter of fact the best drivers ive ever seen started out on the 30/35 or the 30/20 combo and ran tires that should have shredded the shafts everytime out while they were building better axles.

I think if u take the time and learn how to drive that combo, then you will be better in the long run for it. Still and 8.8 in the rear is really a good thing. Good Luck

I ended up having an 8.8 built to my specs (Detroit & all the goodies) as a bolt in axle for my TJ. The built 8.8 is suppose to be just a hair weaker than a stock D60.

Who built your 8.8? Cost?? if you don't mind me asking.

Who built your 8.8? Cost?? if you don't mind me asking.

Wayne Hartwig he is one this site, or you can drop him an e-mail at info@alljeep.com

My 8.8 is at the top end, all new everything including bearings, seals, etc., I went with full Detroit, Yukon axles, Yukon gears, performance disc brakes, brake cables, racing lug studs (APS?), brackets for TJ, wheel spacers (don't get these), etc. etc. axle was bolt in when I received it. Total cost to my local hub was approximately $2,400 or $2,500.

Wayne Hartwig he is one this site, or you can drop him an e-mail at info@alljeep.com

My 8.8 is at the top end, all new everything including bearings, seals, etc., I went with full Detroit, Yukon axles, Yukon gears, performance disc brakes, brake cables, racing lug studs (APS?), brackets for TJ, wheel spacers (don't get these), etc. etc. axle was bolt in when I received it. Total cost to my local hub was approximately $2,400 or $2,500.

Thanks for the info.

Wayne Hartwig he is one this site, or you can drop him an e-mail at info@alljeep.com

My 8.8 is at the top end, all new everything including bearings, seals, etc., I went with full Detroit, Yukon axles, Yukon gears, performance disc brakes, brake cables, racing lug studs (APS?), brackets for TJ, wheel spacers (don't get these), etc. etc. axle was bolt in when I received it. Total cost to my local hub was approximately $2,400 or $2,500.

Thanks for the info.

I forgot to tell you, contact Wayne, he will build whatever axle you desire (D44, 8.8, 9 inch, D60) to your specs. He has a price list that he will e-mail you and you can add all the goodies, or only a few, whatever you desire. Besides, Wayne is a heck of a nice guy to deal with.

I saw an add for stock rubi d44's for around 1300 a piece, included the 4:10's, locker, and rear discs. from mopar perf.

granted the tubes aren't much stronger than a 35 or 30, and the front shafts use the same joints and stub shafts as the later d30.

unless you have trouble with breaking ring gear and pinion the 30 is nearly as good as the 44, with a super kit, as strong as far as the axle shafts go.

I saw an add for stock rubi d44's for around 1300 a piece, included the 4:10's, locker, and rear discs. from mopar perf.

granted the tubes aren't much stronger than a 35 or 30, and the front shafts use the same joints and stub shafts as the later d30.

unless you have trouble with breaking ring gear and pinion the 30 is nearly as good as the 44, with a super kit, as strong as far as the axle shafts go.

I went with 4:56 gears, but wish I had gone with 4:88's. 4:10's would not have even been worth the effort.