Ok, I finally made some visible progress so this may just be worthy of Pirate...hopefully.

Well I collected parts for a while, but it became time to get to work just after Christmas.

The Parts -

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link011001-1.jpg
2 - 2.5" Sway-A-Way Race Runner reservoir 14" travel coilovers, with dual rate kits.
2 - 2.0 Fox 4" air bumps.
4 - JMX-16 FK chromoly 3 peice rod ends with tube. adapters, high misalignment spacers, jam nuts and bolts.
4 - 3.0 Ballistic Fab flex joints with 1-1/4" welded studs, tube adapters, jam nuts and bolts.
2 - 2.0 long style air bump cans
2 - 2-1/4"OD x .375" wall x 36" lengths of 1020 DOM tube for lower links.
2 - 2"OD x .250" x 36" lengths of 1020 DOM tube for the upper links. Overkill, I know, I wanted something more like .134" or .188" wall but I couldn't easily find it in short lengths.
Jason old ORU sway bar and end links with heims.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link013001.jpg
2 - Parts Mike springless D60 knuckle caps with hardware.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link013002.jpg
Slew of brackets to make the process and quick as possible, there are some others in another box.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link013003.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link013004.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link013005.jpg
7.6ci/rev load reactive orbital valve with mounting plate and short steering shaft. I mounted the two using 3/8" SHCS. Not pictured is the anti-kickback valve to prevent pump damage from tire side heavy input.

I started by adding some uncoated thick washers to the 1/4" brackets to add more load bearing surface for the bolts. I'm trying to keep them in good shape for years to come.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link014001.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link019005.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link019001.jpg

Then I tore the truck apart.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link015001.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link015007.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link015009.jpg

I took a some time and swapped in the springless arm caps.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link017007.jpg
Painted them up.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link018002.jpg
Pulled the old stuff out.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link018004.jpg
Lubed up the new bushing.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link018007.jpg
Threaded in the studs with locktite.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link018010.jpg
Slipped in the washer.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link018009.jpg
Torqued the cap down with the knuckle preload at 25lbs and put in the zerk fitting and locknut.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link021001.jpg
The 3.0 Ballistic managed ot be too wide for the brackets I bought, sigh. The inner sticking out I can fix but the bolt sticking so far out into what will be the frame was an issue.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link022002.jpg
I turned some hardened nuts down to 7/8" OD and bored the inner plate to the same.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link022001.jpg
I pressed the nuts into the plate and later welded them in fully fixing that issue.

Then it became front axle time. I had to clear the shock tabs, spring perch, anti-wrap bracket and smooth it all down. It took some time but I got it back to square one.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link023002.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link023008.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link023010.jpg
I bent up the main hoop and tacked the brackets in place to see how they would all fit.

Well that brings us up to yesterday morning..

I went back, modified the upper brackets, knocked off the coilover mounts as I'm still not happy with placement (the 2.5 c/o's require me to work just a little harder) and welded in the main hoop, lower mounts and then the uppers.

Then it was time to start adding the sheets. I figured, hey, I've got a coilover box, cardboard should be tough enough right?
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link024001.jpg


Ok, fine, be that way, I'll make it from steel just to appease you all.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link024002.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link024003.jpg
Ooo, dimples.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link024007.jpg
Getting there. Yes, I still need to add tube flanges to be able to disco the ram truss as it's all welded into the diff cover.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link024009.jpg
Tacked in place for the evening. If you notice there is a second sheet behind with matching dimpled holes. I'll be welding tubes through them for rigidity and to help seal the truss.

More to come.

quality of the work looks great! how are you going to have any kind of uptravel with that gigantic upper link mount though?

it also looks like your cylinder isn't parallel with the axletube, or it's an optical illusion.

Looking good bud :)

Must be an optical illusion, I just looked at that pic myself and got worried. Measures out fine though.

For uptravel, at ride height I have a little over 5"s before the upper truss tube hits the front of the oil pan with the axle forward, modifying the air bumps to a 3" stroke so I have 2"s of uninhibited bump and 3"s of assisted bump. I'll probably add 1/4" of UHMW to the striker for the bumpstops to keep the noise from driving me insane. It should work, I can always notch the upper hoop if I need another 3/8-1/4".

Should have made the dimpled pieces from bacon instead of cardboard :flipoff2:

I was wondering how the hell you were planning to take off your diff cover. Then I re-read and caught this.
I still need to add tube flanges to be able to disco the ram truss as it's all welded into the diff cover.

Nice build. Looking good.

X2 on the bacon.:laughing:

True, I could have used bacon and then cooked it extra crispy for strength:laughing:


Yea, taking off the cover just got 12 bolts tougher.

Sweet truck. Just curious what brand and lift are your old leaf springs?

Looking forward to seeing this thing go through another build! Keep them pics coming:flipoff2:

balla!

Sweet truck. Just curious what brand and lift are your old leaf springs?

Alcan, custom offset, ~3" lift.

truck is comein alng good, can't wait to see future progress.:smokin:

hell yea. your trucks bad-ass. looks like its gonna be a sick beast soon.

I sat out in the dark with my buddy holding up the halogen shop light (the freestander is dead currently) and welded up the runners with the tube flanges I got in from PolyPerformance thid afternoon. I also started welding up the front sheet, trying to disperse the heat as well as I could. The wind picked up and started hurting my ability to shield my welds so I called it quits.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link026001.jpg

I assembled the coilovers with the springs I ordered from Poly earlier this week. 16" 450in/lb primaries and 12" 300in/lb. tenders.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link027016.jpg

Well before I started today I brought out my new package of welding hood outer lenses. I've been using the same outer lense since I bought it and to say it was a little worse for wear was an understatement. I could hardly see through it actually, the sad thing is it happened so gradually I didn't notice it occuring.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link028001.jpg

Well the new lenses are a bit clearer.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link028002.jpg

Oh thank goodness, night and day.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link028003.jpg

I started the day by cutting a runner from a short stick of 1-1/4" .095 wall HREW I had and notched the ends. Then I popped the tack welds off the rear plate on the truss and welded the tube upright from the hoop to the axle tube. I'm planning to notch the hoop for a tighter fit on the oil pan so I can bring it down the inch I want to. Then I just spent the afternoon welding the plates on.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link028005.jpg

A big part of the time was consumed by the welding to the nodular centersection. I layed down some beads, heated them with a propane torch for a while and then covered them with a blanket to insulate so the mild steel sheet and nodular centersection would cool slowly and make the large difference in thermal coefficients less noticable.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link028004.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link028007.jpg

Then I ran out of welding gas. So is my life, I always run out Saturday afternoon after the welding supply closes but before I can finish all I want to for the weekend. I'll probably toss my 2lb spool of flux in and tack in the shock hoops or something tomorrow if it's not raining.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link028008.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link028009.jpg

Awesome work man:smokin:

Keepin' it real for the fullsize guys:D

good work Kyle...keep it up.

Did you do any pre-heat of the nodular case? Wondering if propane is enough heat to really matter. Either way nice work. There is enough weld to steel on that truss that is should be plenty strong. Impressive welds.

Did you do any pre-heat of the nodular case? Wondering if propane is enough heat to really matter. Either way nice work. There is enough weld to steel on that truss that is should be plenty strong. Impressive welds.

I did preheat with the propane torch but most of the use there was simply sweating out oil so I had clean metal.

Who knows if the little torch had enough btu's to do anything on that large centersection? Made me feel better doing it though:D

Well a mix of no welding gas, weather and being out of town hasn't netted much progress. I have been fooling around with lower frame side link mounts in SW. I had about 6 designs but none of them really struck a cord aesthetically or strength for weight to me. I had a little epiphany during my three hour drive home tonight and drew up a new design I'm pretty happy with. Some more sleep on it and I might actually have something to work with.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/front.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/right.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/eplode.jpg

It will be welded onto a 1/4" plate the frame is going to be boxed in a little farther back with.

Well I built the brackets today, I had to modify the mounts a bit to to fit the driveshaft. I made the main hoops, then sectioned 3"s out of the middle to create the width I needed. Then I tacked the brackets I had from Ruffstuff onto them in the right places and chopped the exposed bend off the end with the sawzall. I cut a plate to cap the end and integrate the Ruffstuff bracket and the tubes. I used square tubes instead of bent round tubes simply for ease. I wasn't gaining much strength with the tube bent in any case so I just used shorter straight box tube.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link030002.jpg
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http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link029008.jpg

My evil workshop...errr driveway...sigh.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link029009.jpg

Tomorrow I'll try and wrap up the front axle with an oil pan notch, c/o mounts and a support gusset for the lower passenger link mount. It may even get paint. The driver frame rail will get plated and hopefully the coilover hoop will be well on its way as well.

Badass. I like it.

Arnt the dimpled holes that you made in going to allow dirt and water to pile up in between your plates? Sweet ass work tho

I think he sleaved them.

Arnt the dimpled holes that you made in going to allow dirt and water to pile up in between your plates? Sweet ass work tho

Yea, a little. It's dimpled on the bottom and top though so it shouldn't be a big deal.

I'm sleeving the truss, not these. If you notice the hole pattern top and bottom don't match.

I started today with a fresh frame rail Mike cleaned up for me, I filled some gaps from plasma penetration to make it structurally sound.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link032001.jpg

Then I cut a 1/4" plate and drilled it so I wasn't just welding the perimeter.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link031001.jpg

With that on I needed to start making hoop mounting points so I measured for a while for hoop placement. Then finally started making the blocks to hold the base of the tube legs. Everything starts drawing it out.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link031002.jpg

I cut them out with a cut off wheel.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link031003.jpg

I cut some plates and cleaned them all up for welding.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link031004.jpg

Then I just tacked, bent it around the corners with the deadblow and tacked again.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link031005.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link031006.jpg

Burned them in all the way.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link031007.jpg

Then I burned the mounts to the frame.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link031010.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link031011.jpg

I still have to add another gusset on each block on the outside edges, but that didn't get done today.

I did bend one of the hoops and cut off the excess. Mike was kind enough to catch a moment of sawzall stress relief.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link031015.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link031016.jpg
You'll notice I also used the plasma and cut out a bit of the inner fender. The hoops still need a lot of work, but it's a start.

I did bend one of the hoops and cut off the excess. Mike was kind enough to catch a moment of sawzall stress relief.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link031015.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link031016.jpg
You'll notice I also used the plasma and cut out a bit of the inner fender. The hoops still need a lot of work, but it's a start.

It looks great. You just love that plasma aye?

Nice to see some progress Kyle. how come you didn't ditch the inner fenders? Just to keep it neat and clean?

It looks great. You just love that plasma aye?

I can cut metal by basically drawing what I want, whats not to love?

Nice to see some progress Kyle. how come you didn't ditch the inner fenders? Just to keep it neat and clean?

Basically it's extra work. They keep trash out of the bay as is, my computer is mounted to this one as well as the CFR. The air filter is mounted on the otherside. It just creates problem for no benefit, I just cut them as I need clearance for stuffs.

6 plates, 2 bends and a lot of time fitting around previous welds and the coilover hoop mounts on the driver side are all welded in. Sadly I seem to be out of flap wheels so no clean up of the edges until tomorrow or whenever its not raining.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link035001.jpg

nice...very nice :D

Hurumph, well it rained all day today. I set up a little table top of a sheet metal to work on at the edge of the garage and tried to do as much as I could.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link036001.jpg

I figured why not build the coilover hoop mount for the passenger side so once its cleaned off I can weld it in quickly? Well 11 peices later I had all the parts I needed cut out. I still don't have my standoff rollers for my plasma setup right so the main plate was cut free hand without a straightedge. Not my best work, but it should be just fine.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link036005.jpg

I welded it all up peice by peice and mocked up top and bottom plates with my magnets for flat straight surfaces. Finished it up with a trip to the drill press and some time with a flap wheel.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link037.jpg

I like it man. Hey I thought it never rained in CA?

wow thats some nice fab.

is the rear getting changed at all?

any high speed action with those purdy coils??

wow thats some nice fab.

is the rear getting changed at all?

any high speed action with those purdy coils??

The rear isn't getting linked now if that's what your asking. I just don't have the time this year and monies to do all I want to the rear and bed along with my other goals for the year.

I have another 14FF housing getting dropped off later this week that I'll weld the tubes on, weld on the Ruffstuff truss I have sitting around and add some Timbren bumps to. I have some lowering shackles I'll plate and then move the shackle flip hanger to try and soften up the rear a bit to work with the front.

The truck is heavy, really heavy. The bumps and coils will help but with the limited uptravel it is in no way a desert running vehicle. We'll have to see how she bottoms out with the new setup though. The isn't a cage in it currently either so I can't be going crazy regardless.

No physical work done today, it was too wet for me to sit under the truck cutting templates and fit the hoops. I did however draw up a likeness of the way I want to connect the coilover hoops. Once I get the hoops fitted and tacked in I can make the final part drawings and with the help of PacFab get the sheets shot out so I can dimple, bend and weld them.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/completeassembly.jpg

I got the materials for the adjustable ends on the crossmember. It's a 1-8 B7 threaded rod with a pair of G8 nuts and hardened washers. The to be welded spacer in between the cardboard is 1-1/2" .250wall 1020 DOM. The cardboard is a mockup of a pair of hotroll mild steel plates that will weld into the ends of the middle section of the crossmember. I'll add a hole for an end wrench in the crossmember to adjust the inner nuts. The tubing perpendicular to the threaded stud is 1-1/4" .250wall 1020 DOM that will bolt into the end peices with a 3/4" G8 bolt. I'll double plate the holes like I did on some brackets. Anyways, pics:

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link038001.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link038002.jpg

Notice the coped threaded stud end. I still need to clean the mill scale and coating along with face and chamfer the tubes on the lathe but thats the idea.


I also got the bronze bushings for the sway bar in. The bar will mount inside of a 1-1/2" tube which will bolt to factory mounts with welded flanges.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link038003.jpg

I did what I think are the final modifications to the axle today short of welding in the through tubes for the dimpled holes.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link039002.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link039003.jpg

I chopped the upper crossmember and plated it in for oil pan clearance.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link039006.jpg

I welded in plates for the lower link mounts to strengthen them as well. The passenger side inner tab is welded to the nodular housing so I wanted to attach it to some mild steel as well and I couldn't leave the driverside looking different.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link039004.jpg

I welded on the coilover tabs at the axle.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link039007.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link039008.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link039010.jpg

I also cut out some plates to start plating the frame and extending the box section about 8"s. I needed to cover all the holes ORU had me drill for the old leaf brackets so this was the first step. I have the passenger side cut but daylight left me so I had to stop here for the day.

More tomorrow.

Looks great.:grinpimp:

I welded in another plate to extend the boxed distance back farther. I had to pu some ears on it so I could weld the upper and lower to the frame rail.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link040001.jpg

Then after some pondering I decided to cut off the runners on the lower mounts and use the upper mount as the support. I mocked it up with magnets, cut some feet for the upper mount and a small tube to connect the two.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link040002.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link040003.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link040004.jpg

Then I welded it up which was a process in itself to get access to all the sides I wanted to visually and physically.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link040008.jpg

I like the frame mounts alot kyle. Nice work

I did some minor turning work this evening. I faced and chamfered the tubes for one of the coilover crossmember adjusters and welded it up after cleaning the mill scale and zinc off the pair.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link041001.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link041002.jpg

I also got the tube adapters and heims for the new sway bar end links from BallisticFab. I stopped at OSH on the way home to get some jam nuts. Stupid me forgot that left hand jam nuts are a hard item to locate locally. I just bought two left hand 1/2" UNF nuts and turned them down to a shorter height and broke the edges with a chamfer. Luckily right hand thread jam nuts were easy enough.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link041004.jpg

What kind off a welder and plasma are you using? The results look great.

What kind off a welder and plasma are you using? The results look great.

Its a 'chinacut' 50a plasma and a M175 mig. I need to buy a new torch for the plasma, the stock one is falling apart and needs constant tinkering to stay working.

Well I duplicated all my work over to the passenger side this weekend. It goes quite a bit faster once I know how I'm going to do it and it's simple implementation not creative thought.

I welded in the new boxing peices for the frame.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link043004.jpg

I shaved off and smoothed the leftover beads from the support runners.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link042001.jpg

I added the legs and joining tube to make an assemble of the upper and lower brackets.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link042003.jpg

With a bit of measuring and chopping I welded the mounts in place. I ran into the exhaust again on the passenger side even though I thought I wouldn't. Simply unbolted the collector and chopped it off about 2 feet back. The exhaust mods shouldn't take long, might get to them this week.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link042005.jpg

Then came the arduous process of cutting off the UCA mounts and the stock shock mount. I just can't get over how difficult with a all the tools that still was. Then came the smoothing and wire wheeling and finally welding the plate I made a couple weekends back.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link043001.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link042008.jpg

Looks like it's time to make mockup links and get the axle under the rig and tack in the coilover hoops and make the crossmember template. Oh boy, the fun stuff.

I took a moment and assembled my joints and hardware this evening. I was going to make the mock-up links but I got unmotivated so that will have to wait. It may get done in the morning after class and before work.

Started with a pile of parts:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link044001.jpg

Assmbled the parts into this:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link044002-1.jpg

For giggles another comparo: 1" x 1-1/4" rod end compared to a 1/2" x 1/2" rod end.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link044003.jpg

I was kind of absorbed with other things today like cleaning the garage up a bit but I did chop up the driver exhaust and make my mock up links and get them installed on the truck.

I layed the ends out with the tube adapter threaded out an inch on the 3.0 joint so I had an extra bit of adjustability if my length numbers are off. Uppers should need to be 30-5/8" and the lowers should be 30-1/4".

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-2.jpg

I cut some cheapo 1018 HREW to length and tacked the tube adapters on.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-1.jpg

I threw them on the truck. Manipulating the 60 under the truck isn't quite a one person job. Hopefully I can get some help tomorrow to give me a hand so I don't hurt myself trying to position it.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04.jpg

Mike showed up this afternoon and between him, my dad and myself shoved the 60 under the truck without to much commotion.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-5.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-3.jpg

As I was trying to get the axle to ride height (the truck is sitting 2" taller than it should be on its own) I ran into the old lower control arm cross member quite literally. I was pretty sure I would but I wasn't about to carve it out if I didn't need to.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-6.jpg

With the need obviously there I welded a new beam flush with the front frame rails before cutting the old unit out so as to keep the alignment.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-4.jpg

With the old piece cut out I brought the axle to ride height.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-7.jpg

I pushed it even farther to full bump and then shoved a tire on it to look at clearances. The axle will be going another 1.5" forward as I can chop it up there pretty easily however I'm rubbing the pinch weld on the firewall currently.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-8.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-9.jpg

I drooped out the passenger as far as the ground would let me. My cross measurements at the axle side coilover mounts say I've got another inch and a half of downward wheel travel on passenger.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-10.jpg

Then I let axle out to full droop. I really enjoy the flush frame rails without the old cross member over the axle. I'll need to make a thin skid plate for the underside but other than that I dropped about 20lbs between the cross members.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-11.jpg

Awesome work man, keep it coming. Really like how u did the frame side link mounts. And yeah, much cleaner look without that factory crossmember hanging down there.

Very nice! I cant wait for warmer weather here so I can get to work.

Its a 'chinacut' 50a plasma and a M175 mig.



Is that the actual brand or is it one of these founs on ebay: http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh314/simadretechsllc/4050DDpics004.jpg

I've got a Mitech Cut50 that I got of ebay for a little over $500 shipped. I can't live without it.

Holy thread hijack batman 360691

Check the shop and tool forum. Seabass44's "I got a plasma" thread...Parker Plasma cutters:smokin:

Bggreen- Nice work on the shock hoops, truss, upper control arm mounts :smokin:

damn i got this thread off topic, my bad

Good work man. It looks nice.

Is that the actual brand or is it one of these founs on ebay:

I just call them all 'chinacuts', they all seem to ship in the same housing regardless of who modifies the internals to which spec and ships it with what torch.

It's a 50a CAT-518D so the box says. I really need to invest in a better torch I've seen on ebay. I have a roller for mine but it's too big for the cup so I make do without currently. Add the zip tied trigger and constant issue with maintaining continuity within the torch itself it creates a hassle.

Progress is slow.

I spent the mid afternoon squaring up the axle under the truck and checking tire clearances to the firewall. It's kind of a trick getting left to right orientation, squareness to the rear axle and camber all in check using the same 4 links.

Front axle placement at full bump, bumper will need to be modified.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-12.jpg

Hey! Four tires on it again! Too bad 2 aren't touching the ground or constrained in terms of steering.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-13.jpg

With the axle in place I measured for the final links and started on the passenger set. I chopped the tubes to length and drilled a pair of 3/8" holes for rossette welds and then pressed the tube adapters (recently removed form the mock-up links) into the tubes with a dead blow.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-14.jpg

I threaded in my joints with a liberal coating of anti-seize on the threads (to allow easy removal after welding in the adapters) and a tin foil top to keep any spatter from destroying the precision surfaces.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-15.jpg

Welded them up one at a time, removing the joints immediately following heat application and giving them a position in a partially filled water bath (threads pointed straight up) to keep the heat soaked threaded ends from melting the liners. I might be able to get to the rest tomorrow.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-16.jpg

I just call them all 'chinacuts', they all seem to ship in the same housing regardless of who modifies the internals to which spec and ships it with what torch.

It's a 50a CAT-518D so the box says. I really need to invest in a better torch I've seen on ebay. I have a roller for mine but it's too big for the cup so I make do without currently. Add the zip tied trigger and constant issue with maintaining continuity within the torch itself it creates a hassle.

Progress is slow.

I spent the mid afternoon squaring up the axle under the truck and checking tire clearances to the firewall. It's kind of a trick getting left to right orientation, squareness to the rear axle and camber all in check using the same 4 links.

Front axle placement at full bump, bumper will need to be modified.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-12.jpg

Hey! Four tires on it again! Too bad 2 aren't touching the ground or constrained in terms of steering.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-13.jpg

With the axle in place I measured for the final links and started on the passenger set. I chopped the tubes to length and drilled a pair of 3/8" holes for rossette welds and then pressed the tube adapters (recently removed form the mock-up links) into the tubes with a dead blow.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-14.jpg

I threaded in my joints with a liberal coating of anti-seize on the threads (to allow easy removal after welding in the adapters) and a tin foil top to keep any spatter from destroying the precision surfaces.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-15.jpg

Welded them up one at a time, removing the joints immediately following heat application and giving them a position in a partially filled water bath (threads pointed straight up) to keep the heat soaked threaded ends from melting the liners. I might be able to get to the rest tomorrow.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-16.jpg

Whose Heims are those? Besides the JJ's

Whats your ride height in terms of lift? looks like you are about 5" above stock, but im not sure.

Whose Heims are those? Besides the JJ's

No JJ's present, they're Ballistic Fab joints.

In any case the rod ends are FK JMX-16T's.

Whats your ride height in terms of lift? looks like you are about 5" above stock, but im not sure.

I'd have to go check again, with the leafs it was about 9"s with the new lighter bumper, but I dropped it back down a couple inches up front. Most likely about 7-8".

No JJ's present, they're Ballistic Fab joints.

I'm very interested to hear your feedback on these joints. I was orignially planning to run them, but the welded stud was a bit of a concern to me. I am leaning more towards the JJ's due to their 1-piece forged design for a similar price.

Badass tires man.... That things lookin good

Busy morning but I made it out to Simms to try and procure some steel. I got out of their for less than I think I ever have at under $30.

In any case I cut the remaining link tubes to length, drilled them, ground the tacks from the setup links and welded the new units together.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-21.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-20.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-19.jpg

Following some final welding and a little cleaning I painted the frame side link mounts too. I'm going to let them cure overnight before I put the links and axle back under the truck.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-18.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-17.jpg

With some parts I'm picking up this evening from Kevin at PacFab I should have the coilover hoops notched and tacked if not fully welded in tomorrow and possibly the steering valve in place as well.

I'm very interested to hear your feedback on these joints. I was orignially planning to run them, but the welded stud was a bit of a concern to me. I am leaning more towards the JJ's due to their 1-piece forged design for a similar price.

We'll have to see. The welded shank doesn't really both me but the larger 3/4" bolt were something I had decided I needed. I saw Jason have to much issue with the little 9/16" bolts in his rig.

Progress today was really pretty much nill. I threaded all my joints in to the new links, spent a while getting them in the truck and longer still aligning the front axle again.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-23.jpg

With that done I slipped the 1/4" brackets Kevin at PacificFab shot out for me onto the hoop I had prebent. I was going to use the Ruffstuff brackets but for this application I really worried about ripping the thin (.120") wall tube open. These brackets wrap all the way around the tube so that can't happen. I called Kevin up on Friday afternoon, asked about getting some and he ran through the numbers with me (tube OD, bolt OD, seperation) and had them shot out custom same day on the CNC plasma. They even went as far as to undershoot the bolt hole and drill it out for tighter accuracy. Sweet service!

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-25.jpg

Unfortunately I had a bigger issue I should have seen coming that prevented me from being able to make use of those brackets. I welded the coilover tabs on the axle in line with the truss, unfortunattely with my axle pushed forward of where I originally though the angle is too steep front to back and I can't get the coilover in.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-24.jpg

Sigh, setback. I took out the cutoff wheel, sawzall and flap wheel and removed the bracket. When I was at Simms on Saturday I snagged ~20 3x3" 1/4" plates that had been sheared so I have plenty of material to make some nice mounts so I went to the drawing board...err SolidWorks.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/axlecoiloverbracket.jpg

I'm thinking of building something like this to fill the void, reduce the angle on the shock bearing to 0 by tilting it back and moving the mount itself 1-1/4" back.

I think you do great work and you will have it fixed and 'BLINGEN' no problem.

Sweet truck, and very nice work!!!! :smokin:

I picked up some neat interlocking brackets for my axle side coilover mounts from PacFab on my way back on Friday that solved my angle problem with a little trimming.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-22.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-26.jpg

I did have to pull one of the studs and cut it down on the lathe (my parting tool decided to go missing making it a pain) to keep good clearance to the lower coil cap at lock.

With the mount on the axle workable I had the chance to weld up my driver side hoop with the fully welded wrap around tab from PacFab as well.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-27.jpg

I couldn't bring myself to do it all over again on the passenger side again today so I worked on pulling my steering box and getting my steering valve in.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-31.jpg

I cleaned the frame up a bit as well in anticipation for the steering valve mount.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-29.jpg

To mate the splined shaft from the steering valve with the female section on the steering shaft I had to make a flat on the male stub and then press it into the female section. I locked it down with a 1/4-28 G8 bolt.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-32.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-30.jpg

The steering valve mount itself needed some gussets so I welded those on as well as bolted the unit up to the reinstalled shaft and tacked it in for the night.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-28.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link04-33.jpg

Really enjoying your build so far. Not much of a Chevy guy myself, but I will definately be using some of your ideas on my old J-10.

Interested in info on your coilovers, as I'm almost at that point on mine. Considered Air Shocks, but in the long run, I think they wouldn't be enough for my build, as it's going to be One Heavy MF.

Doug

Really enjoying your build so far. Not much of a Chevy guy myself, but I will definately be using some of your ideas on my old J-10.

Interested in info on your coilovers, as I'm almost at that point on mine. Considered Air Shocks, but in the long run, I think they wouldn't be enough for my build, as it's going to be One Heavy MF.

Doug

What info were you looking for on the c/o's?

Well more progress was made today.

I welded up the other bracket kit from PacFab. It's a 4 piece, interlocking setup. It looks like this when completed.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link05-5.jpg

With the flick of a switch (hydraulics are so cool) and a repin the other hoop was bent.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link05-3.jpg

I welded that onto the axle and started making some rough cuts on the inner fender so I could get the coilover hoop in.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link05-2.jpg

Unfortunately I seem to have misplaced one of the shock tabs so that was as far as I got on the shock mount today.

Moving onto projects I can actually work on I managed to create my sway bar mounting system and end links. I used a 1-3/4 .120 wall piece of tube with feet made from 3/4" strap bent and notched welded onto 3x3 .250" plate mounts on the frame. The sway bar rides inside the round 1-3/4" tube on the bronze bushing I showed earlier and is constrained by 1 piece shaft collars. The tabs on the axle are just flat bottom acc tabs I picked up from PolyPerformance. The spacing is 1" leaving me space for a pair of misalignment spacers on the axle I'll turn when I got some material.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link05-1.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link05.jpg

....... Not much of a Chevy guy myself,....... Doug :eek: :flipoff2: BANNED :flipoff2:

Bite me:flipoff2:


Not saying anything is wrong with them. By far the easiest to work with, and the most bang for your buck.

Just thought I'd go a different route.

Jeep J-10 Honcho with Cummins 4BTA, BOP TH400-Chevy 203-Ford 205, Ford D60HP, Chevy D70HD.

Couldn't make up my mind, so used a little of everything.

That's a really cool anti-sway bar setup! What type/size bar did you use for the actual anti-way bar (the one that sits inside the 1-3/4" tube)?

bggrnchvy made any progress im very intrested in ur build. what did u do with ur sas leafs an brakets?

That's a really cool anti-sway bar setup! What type/size bar did you use for the actual anti-way bar (the one that sits inside the 1-3/4" tube)?

Speedway Engineering 1-1/4" solid bar.

bggrnchvy made any progress im very intrested in ur build. what did u do with ur sas leafs an brakets?

I tore out all the brake hardlines and replumbed the truck. School started again and I was away last weekend so all else I've gotten done are some models for a steering reservoir and dual pump engine bracket I'm hoping to start building this weekend. I also picked up a reman 85 G30 P-pump.

Some people were asking in another forum so I thought I'd post an update. The brake hardlines are all replumbed and I've been doing some work in SW.

Well here are some of the models I've been working on in the late evenings lately. I still haven't pulled my KRC pump to model it or get its bolt pattern so the bracket isn't finished but it's well on its way.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/dualpumpassemblyiso-1.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/dualpumpassemblyback-1.jpg

The reservoir still needs a sight tube and the return port will be going in through the cover through a mounted filter which I can pull as a unit to service.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/hydraulicreservoirfront-1.jpg

Are you going back to highflow or anthing to the stock P pump or leave it? On other note, you are pretty damn good with solidworks, I have always wanted to learn it.

Are you going back to highflow or anthing to the stock P pump or leave it? On other note, you are pretty damn good with solidworks, I have always wanted to learn it.

Nope, leaving the p-pump stock. I just need more flow at idle really so the boost from a functioning non-modded p-pump on top of my 3.2gpm KRC should be plenty. The name of the game is flow and reliability.

I'm getting gradumacating with a degree in CAD shortly, probably a good thing I can whip up some messy models in my off time:D

Really cool build man. A friend of mine is thinking about doing the same with his half ton. I also have to say.... that welding/plasma/bender cart combo is soooo sick. I may just need to make myself one of those this summer if I have some free time. Looking good :mr-t:

-Steve

Really cool build man. A friend of mine is thinking about doing the same with his half ton. I also have to say.... that welding/plasma/bender cart combo is soooo sick. I may just need to make myself one of those this summer if I have some free time. Looking good :mr-t:

-Steve

Not sure I would do it all with a 1/2 ton platform if I had to start again.


I tried to get a to get a lot done on the rig this weekend but I had to help my friend disassemble his D60 being it's in my driveway currently.

Started by cutting 5 sides to a box out of 12 gauge with some time with a square, straightedge and a cutoff wheel. I welded them up to form the box.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link05-16.jpg

I spent some time smoothing the beads and blending the edges.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link05-15.jpg

Being the intended use of the box, testing with fluid was needed to verify its ability to hold liquid. I filled it with tap water (2.25gal btw) and let it sit for a couple hours. All of the seams were dry to the touch thankfully.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link05-14.jpg

With leak testing done I started to check clearances for output lines, sight tube and the top mounted return line. The space in the engine bay used to be taken up by an underhood storage box.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link05-13.jpg

Some old lids cam in handy to create the curve templates I needed for the top and cover. I shot them out with the plasma then cleaned and blended the arcs and lines with a flap wheel. I don't think it came out that badly. A top was made with 5/8" of overlap using the same method and holes where then drilled and G8 1/4-20 bolts where welded in to create permanent studs.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link05-11.jpg

I grabbed my old reservoir and dropped it in just to chuckle a little about the difference.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link05-10.jpg

For a filter I used my old mount from my SE ram system and mounted it to the lid. I'll use a 90* street elbow compression fitting to point the input up to the cover and link it to a bulkhead fitting I'll weld into the cover.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link05-9.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link05-8.jpg

Other than that all I got done was totally disassembling a D60 to the housing and kingpins. The old 4.10 gear set, bearings and races are out as well at this point (pic is from last night).

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link05-12.jpg

Not sure I would do it all with a 1/2 ton platform if I had to start again.


just curious why?

just because you had to upgrade the trans and brakes and all that, or because the weaker frame?

just curious why?

just because you had to upgrade the trans and brakes and all that, or because the weaker frame?

The thickness of the frame rails is a big part, the rest is the drivetrain. It would have been hugely beneficial to have started with a truck with a 4l80e, BW4401 fixed rear yoke t-case and a 14 bolt stock.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Link05-7.jpg

Got a few packages in the last couple days. I'm not sure how that looks like $200 worth of hydraulic fittings but that's what it's supposed to be. I also got the vented fill cap and the PFA hose and fittings for the sight tube.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-1.jpg

I ordered some 2-1/4" mandrel bends from Speedway to resurrect my exhaust around the new link mounts in the frame as well. I'll section them to get the bends I need to go around and come back to the same horizontal position.

The good news is tomorrow is my last day at my place of employment. I'll have an extra ~6hrs a day in the afternoon to work on the truck and other projects for a few weeks.

S-H-O-V-E the J-O-B

Really enjoy you're build, can't wait for more updates (and pics).

S-H-O-V-E the J-O-B

Really enjoy you're build, can't wait for more updates (and pics).

Something like that, it felt good to let them know I was taking my ball and going home.

I'll keep updating as things change.

lookin good man

Well I finished the reservoir this afternoon. I drilled all the holes for the bungs and welded them all in as well as created the path from the filter to the top of the lid. The mounting points also appeared.

Now it's time for some paint.

Pre-fitting mockup
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-4.jpg

Filter inlet routing.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-5.jpg

Fitting mockup.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-3.jpg

Mounted for the interim.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-2.jpg

Well I got a big pain out of the way this afternoon, exhaust. I can't tell you how little fun it is to chop, tack, check, rework, repeat 20-30 times to get two ~2-1/2' runs that go just the way you need.

I cut the collectors I had off and sectioned out the piece with the O2 bung so I could reuse it and just chopped up a couple of the 180* mandrel bends to get the shapes I needed.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-9.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-8.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-6.jpg

The reservoir was disassembled and shot with my regular oxide primer/flat black mix.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-7.jpg

Managed to pull the two ram feed hoses and cleaned them up with scrubbing and Gojo (lots of grime and oil from my leaky sector shaft seal). Then I cut the nylon web into lengths, burned the edges to keep from fraying and strapped them on. The nylon will protect them against mild abrasion, some heat and UV rays to extend the lifetime. Not bad for $1/ft.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-10.jpg

Excellent work man, very impressive that it's all done in your driveway.

Driveway builds are shit man! Awesome job on the 4 link wish my fab skills were that good.

Awesome work!!

I have always admired your truck :smokin:

Thanks guys, I do what I can with what I have. Every once in a while I have to buy something new to accommodate my mind thoughts, it all still ends up in the driveway though:laughing:

This afternoon and yesterday afternoon I worked out bumpstop mounting and air bump destroke.

For the destroke I popped the bottom cover off with a screwdriver and a couple deadblow whacks. Then I released the gas charge via the fitting on top so I could push the seal body back into the tube to access the snap ring. With the snap ring pulled I wiggled the shaft assembly out so I could take off the rebound return spring, shim packs, washers and valve. With that done I replaced the rebound return spring with a turned piece of tube to face and true the dimensions. Then I just reassembled the unit. Obviously it will need a new N2 charge (I'm going to try 150psi) that I'll get done when I charge the C/O's.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-24.jpg
Our patient.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-23.jpg
Cover off.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-22.jpg
Snap ring out.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-21.jpg
Wiggling out the shaft assembly.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-20.jpg
The guts if you will.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-19.jpg
I found it strange the threaded stud was seemingly tig'ed to the shaft instead of just turned and threaded as one unit.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-18.jpg
This was one spacer, I later turned a longer 3-1/4" one as I deleted the rebound return spring.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-13.jpg
Fin!
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-16.jpg
New stroke vs. old.

The bump cans I had need to be mounted so I notched the frame a bit and welded them in with some plating support. It took an hour or so of bumping and drooping with the C/O in place to figure a good mounting spot that wouldn't be in the way.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-17.jpg

With the mount in place, I still needed a landing pad for the bump. I cut out this 6 piece bracket which ties in the the sway bar tabs. The impact surface is supported very well so I shouldn't ever hurt it.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-15.jpg

Contact!
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-12.jpg

This was all well and good but the one downside to all this was swaybar mounting. I'll have to chop off the mounts and move it ~2"s back which in the grand scheme of things was a very small setback to get these bumps in.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-11.jpg

Is it the weekend? I've lost all track of the date at this point.

Anyways tore through some more stuff today. Passenger side bump mount, striker and I destroked the other air bump. I also eeked out enough time to give my friends D60 some ring gear protection.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-28.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-29.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-27.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-25.jpg

It's starting to look right.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-26.jpg

Planning to pull the axle tomorrow, finish the work on it, clean it up and start painting it. Rapidly running out of things to do!

Dang! Yous gettin' all high tech like.

really enjoyed your build. Very detailed and lots of pics. that power steering fluid reservoir is freakin sweet. I am jealous of your skills. Keep up the good work. :smokin:

Thanks:laughing: I am kind of a picture whore.

Two steering axles in the driveway, neither under a truck, great:laughing:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06.jpg

Pulled the axle and welded through tubes in and a support to the pinion from 2x3 .120". Obviously I also cleaned it up, taped it off and primered it.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-1.jpg

Looks good kyle. I cant wait to see it all done.

It's looking really good man. I really like that front axle truss setup. Any idea on overall weight of the front axle though, just curious?

-Steve

It's looking really good man. I really like that front axle truss setup. Any idea on overall weight of the front axle though, just curious?

-Steve

Shrug, alot. Less than it could have but I'm sure it weighs quite a bit more than it did when I started. The materials have been light and I've been trying to makeup for strength with geometry instead of mass but I still added a fair amount of metal. I'm going to go weigh it after I'm done, we'll see how heavy she ended up.

Keeping it moving along I finished painting the axle as well as welding on some studs for the limit straps. I don't want to be using the valve/shim assembly and bottom cap to stop droop. The ram also got tossed on and I rechecked toe so it was locked in before I put it back under the truck.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-4.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-3.jpg

Yes, my newspaper lit on fire in a lot of places which really happened all within about a minute while I was using the plasma. Let it be a lesson to those of you without fire extinguishers, bad things can happen at random times. Luckily I was just able to stomp it out and the heat helped my paint cure if anything.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-6.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-5.jpg

The links all got painted.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-2.jpg

The steering valve was finally welded in place fully and I moved the sway bar up 2"s for plenty of clearance with the bumps.

I've said it before andI'll say it again... Very nice work, I can't wait to see it finished.

It was hot but the axle is back under the truck with some new hardware.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-7.jpg

I also primered and painted the sway bar and new crossmember. You'll notice the PS cooler mounted to the new crossmember.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-8.jpg

Some pins were picked up, tapered on the lath and drilled out for the pins and became the begging of the quick disconnects. I still need to weld a small peice of tube to the back and hook a keyring to it to pull them out.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-9.jpg

I got word the bracket for the twin pumps has been cut over at PacFab on the CNC plas. I'll make a trip out there tomorrow to snag it and another coilover mounting tab. HOping to get it sitting on it's feet this week.

I sent my .sldprt file over to Jason at PacificFabrication looking for a quote and hoping he didn't need a dimensioned .dwg file being the number of odd arc's and strange angles as well as center locations. He got back to me really quick and just asked that I send him an undimensioned .dxf. Sure enough he had my bracket cut, sand blasted and ready for pickup the next morning. Awesome service and a great price! It saved me a lot of work and the holes are dead on for sure.

Pictors!

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-12.jpg

Checking my pump mounts, both the KRC and my stock P-pump. Just waiting on my PSC p-pump. I picked up a non-hi-flow pump from them as it was actually $10 cheaper after core than a rebuild from Kragen and it has AN/JIC fittings on the can already.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-11.jpg

Mocked up on the block using a couple bolts and a c-clamp. The only point of interference looks like the radiator hose. The serpentine belt from the AC comp to the P-pump is going to need to go where it is. I guess I'll have to section a hose together or find a better fitting one.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-10.jpg

The reservoir now has a gasket and a new filter and is installed in the truck.

Temps are down today, back to the 90's instead of the 100*F+ we've had the last few days so I'll get the axle located here soon, jam nuts tacked, bracket finished and coilover hoops done with an over engine truss.

Time for an update.

Four standoffs were faced to length from a rod of 1" .250wall 1020 DOM to a length of 3.75 +.003/-.000 and then they were bolted into the holes with a 1/2" G8 bolt and held fast while they were welded in.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-13.jpg

The AC comp mount was made from some 1x1 .120wall square tube with the front two studs welded in and ground flat to mate with the plate and the rear 2 being fully removable. Two runners were cut to angle with a notch to mate with the standoffs on the other and welded in.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-14.jpg

The bracket was bolted in to test fitment again.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-15.jpg

The links were reinstalled finally, tomorrow the axle will be aligned.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-16.jpg

Using the new tab supplied by PacificFab I welded up the tabs with gap aligned bolt holes so I can weld the hoop in in the morning.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-17.jpg

The coilover hoops needed a bit more strength at the base so I cut out eight tabs and welded them in.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-18.jpg

For the over engine hoop after about 3 tries I just couldn't make the box tube work without making a huge deal out of it. I just decided to forgo it and use a bent tube, the change also got rid of my design for an adjustable centerlink. I modified the lowering shackles I had laying around and used them for the bushings and structure. The hoop was bent to keep it as close to the engine as possible and the arc gradual. The hoop will connect by 2 coped in tubes on the ends with tabs made from some 3/8" laser cut shackle plates I had laying around.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-19.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-20.jpg

I cant wait to see this thing completed, nice fab work and nice welds by the way.

Ok, here's a visual update. Not a whole lot of change since last.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-23.jpg

I received my pump from PSC.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-21.jpg

I welded up the crossmember with tabs. I still have to weld the shackles on fully and paint the whole thing. Hopefully I'll have it buttoned up on Monday night.

I've been messing with hydraulic hoses the last couple of days. I have 9 lines in my system including 2 check valves, and an offsize T. I drew out the whole system and marked each connection with a letter and described the fittings required following fluid flow on another sheet. After checking off everything I had and realizing a couple issues I modified and created a list. The list was complete as of this morning short of the right T, but that will be here soon enough. With all the fittings and pump here I started making all my hydraulic lines and mocking it all up.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-24.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-22.jpg

I have to pull it all apart and get the p-pump mounted right as well as paint the bracket. Soon it will be plumbed and ready for fluid though, I'm leaving in the early afternoon tomorrow through Sunday afternoon though so not that soon.

Well the truck is sitting on it's feet again. It may be 3" too tall, but it's sitting.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-29.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-30.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-28.jpg

I painted the mounts all up.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-25.jpg

Installed the hardware.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-27.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-26.jpg

And bolted up the tires.

Unfortunately my numbers were off and the truck is too tall now. I'll be swapping the coils out to get the right height (-3"s).

kyle looks awsome. I am glad to see its a roller again. What do you mean swap the coils, are you changing rates or using a shorter coil?

kyle looks awsome. I am glad to see its a roller again. What do you mean swap the coils, are you changing rates or using a shorter coil?

Shorter coils would prevent me from keeping tension on the pack at droop without cranking the body.

I just need to modify the rates.

oh ok, what rates did you start with? And please post up your final rate that works for you if you would.

Well I made a mistake. It would seem the rates are perfectly fine.

I forgot to adjust the collars on the body up to prevent the slider from hitting engaging the primary rate too early. I've since moved them up and the truck sits 2-3/8" lower than before giving me 5/8" for sag and more if I crank on the adjuster at all (currently its topped out).

Tender is 300in/lbs, primary is 450in/lbs.

n post 110 the first pic shows a glimpse of your front D shaft, maybe I missed it but what and where did you get that much slip?

how firm is the front and what stroke 14"?

n post 110 the first pic shows a glimpse of your front D shaft, maybe I missed it but what and where did you get that much slip?

South Bay Driveline made the original shaft with that slip and provided the parts.

how firm is the front and what stroke 14"?

I have no clue, I haven't driven it. I just bounced on it a couple times and it really didn't give me a great indication.

14" stroke.

Today I was highly unmotivated, feeling pressured with class work so I worked a little in the morning and a little this evening and did classwork all afternoon.

I got the disconnects finished up and the end links installed.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link070002.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link070003.jpg

The truck got lowered a bit last night like I mentioned.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link070004.jpg

The steering valve got mounted up and I started hooking up lines.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link070005.jpg

why such a stiff front springs ?

i have the same truck and was thinking 200 over 300?

Stiff? Shoot and I thought I picked low rates:laughing:

I went with the spring rate the calculators spit out at me when I gave them my numbers and ride height.

I know 2 other fullsizes with c/o's while still having sheetmetal and ones running 350/500 and the other is running 350/450. The numbers seemed to add up.

Finished and painted the accessory bracket and bolted it all up.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link07-7.jpg

I had to put in a different upper radiator hose as there was a bend that ran right through where the serpentine belt had to go.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link07-6.jpg

I found a hose of the right diameter but a little longer on the rack at the auto part store. I brought it back and lopped off the last bend and it went right in.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link07-5.jpg

It took 4 different belts to get the right length even with a string cut to the length I needed, but the motor finally has a serpentine belt on it. Unfortunately Goodyear only sees fit to make Gatorbacks up to 97in in length which is about 4in less than I needed.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link07-4.jpg

The limit straps came in on Saturday via good old USPS (I love 6 day a week delivery) and I bolted them up quick to the welded studs.

The hydraulic hoses are all installed, hooked up and tightened down. The reservoir is filled with almost 2 gallons of fluid and the truck is ready to turn over...except for the little fact of a dead battery I forgot to start charging earlier. Hopefully I'll have enough juice to turn it over this evening.

Well now it steers in the right direction and the brakes have been sealed up and bled. I greased the joints, hooked up and greased the driveshaft and reran my ARB line as well as my diff breather. Most of my list is done as of now. Tomorrow I'll finish welding up the exhaust and make some misalignment spacers for the coilovers so I can torque the mounting bolts and call it drivable.

Mounting the reservoirs was proving to be a pain so I just decided to leave them in the wheel well up above and back where the tire won't touch them even if it gets bigger.

To do it I bent 2 of the mockup links and coped the ends to match the planned placement.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link074001.jpg

Some cleaning and welding and the tubes were in place.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link074002.jpg

A shot of primer and paint, some drying time and the reservoirs are mounted.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link074003.jpg

Yeeeeeee Haaaa now drive that biatch!

Been following this from the beginnig of the conversion from leaf to link/coilover. You still gonna drive this on the street? I had heard full hydro steering was a no-no here ( I looked in the VC and found nothing specific to steering, so this is just a question). Did you heat up your front casting when you welded to it? I want to do it with angle cut rectangular steel on my front axle to truss it, but have had concerns about wire welding to cast iron (I have seen the welds crack). I think I can arc weld the cast with nyrod and switch to wire on the tubes, what would you suggest? The work looks terrific, how much more articlulation you gonna get over the leafs?

Been following this from the beginnig of the conversion from leaf to link/coilover. You still gonna drive this on the street? I had heard full hydro steering was a no-no here ( I looked in the VC and found nothing specific to steering, so this is just a question). Did you heat up your front casting when you welded to it? I want to do it with angle cut rectangular steel on my front axle to truss it, but have had concerns about wire welding to cast iron (I have seen the welds crack). I think I can arc weld the cast with nyrod and switch to wire on the tubes, what would you suggest? The work looks terrific, how much more articlulation you gonna get over the leafs?

-Yes, still street driven from time to time. Looking for a 12k 20ft bumper pull to yank it around to the trails though. No laws I can find regarding means of applying pressure tot he knuckles to steer. Late model Unimogs used as road service vehicles in Europe are all full hydro so I'm still thinking it's plenty safe.

-I didn't do much pre heating to weld to the nodular housing. It's not nearly as bad grey iron like a 14FF as the carbon is tied up. I did cover it for cooling though and the short hot beads helped. I had a long 6" bead crack about an hour after welding, it sounded like a gunshot. I rewelded it as 3 small beads and covered it and all was well. All done with mild steel filler out of my mig.

-Probably not a whole lot more articulation, they're only 14" c/o's. I think total wheel travel is only going to go up by about 5"s. However my pinion angle won't go to hell at droop, roll axis is significantly lessened and the tires don't move backwards as the axle goes towards full bump.

Thanks for the reply. No question about the safety of the hydro steer, just heard something and wondered if you had more info. I checked too and found nothing on the subject of steering in the VC. Just brakes on the steering axles (whole other subject). So considering the 14 bolt is more grey iron would nyrod be more appropriate for it. (I actually want to do this on a front Dana 44 and a 14 bolt). Keep up the good work, I'm sure JP is looking down with a big smile of approval.:D

Thanks for the reply. No question about the safety of the hydro steer, just heard something and wondered if you had more info. I checked too and found nothing on the subject of steering in the VC. Just brakes on the steering axles (whole other subject). So considering the 14 bolt is more grey iron would nyrod be more appropriate for it. (I actually want to do this on a front Dana 44 and a 14 bolt). Keep up the good work, I'm sure JP is looking down with a big smile of approval.:D

I hadn't considered Jason's approval for a long time, I can only hope. He's probably reserving his judgment until I actually get out and use the stupid thing.

For the 14FF, I would definitely use nickel rod to weld a truss to the housing. There's so much carbon floating around in the casting you need the nickel to bond to it and encapsulate it. I've been told the best way to do it is to weld it up with a thick throat of nickel, then grind out most of the root leaving a thin layer of nickel fused to the base metals. Then go back over with mild steel filler and lay a couple hot passes and allow it to cool over several hours under an insulator.

Great, thanks for the info, I'm no metallurgist so I wasn't to sure.
I have not been following the thread too much but I thought you were involved in finishing Jasons tuck. Sorry if I touched on a sensitive subject, no harm meant. Chris.

Great, thanks for the info, I'm no metallurgist so I wasn't to sure.
I have not been following the thread too much but I thought you were involved in finishing Jasons tuck. Sorry if I touched on a sensitive subject, no harm meant. Chris.

No worries. Yes, I'm involved in trying to get the AM Chevordbenzal back together. I just hadn't considered what Jason might think of the things I've been building of late in a while. Sensitive, maybe, but only in a positive way.

I captured some video of the new steering. The first is the steering with the single KRC pump running at 1500rpm l-2-l then at idle l-2-l.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PU_-JFDQEY

This second video is of the new steering at idle then at 1500rpm.

http://www.youtube.com/v/bRTVwqUo6jY

The difference is crazy.

I captured some video of the new steering.


This second video is of the new steering at idle then at 1500rpm.



The difference is crazy.

Understatment much, that shit is awesome. To hell with crawling over boulders shove em sidways.:D

I'm limited by how fast I can turn the wheel now, it's kind of a cool feeling.

We'll have to see how it holds for long term use.

Any action shots yet?

Nope, not finished yet. I haven't worked on it honestly in about 2 weeks.

GF graduated with her bachelors so I spent a weekend celebrating and moving her out with her family and I just tonight finished my courses/work to get my certs. Planning to try and get her running/driving tomorrow.

any teaser flex pictures? badass build and sweet truck man

Kyle have you finished your schoolin yet? If I remember correctly you're an ME major. I'm gonna finish mine up next semester. Just two more classes! Can't wait to actually start having the money to do half the stuff you've done already.

Kyle have you finished your schoolin yet? If I remember correctly you're an ME major. I'm gonna finish mine up next semester. Just two more classes! Can't wait to actually start having the money to do half the stuff you've done already.

It's not all it's cracked up to be. I've been out and working for about a year and a half now. I make more money now than ever before, but never have time to actually work on anything. It's surprising how fast life hits you. Next thing you know you'll be buying a house and getting married, trust me.....


Kyle, the truck turned out awesome. I'm still cutting brackets off of the frame on my 91. I'm surprised how well the factory welded them on actually.... I'm patiently awaiting some action shots once you find the time to get it out on the trail again. :D

Just finishing my AS in CAD-mech actually. I took a break from my BSME, I'll finish it piece by piece and get my bachelors at some point. I'm just happy to be out for a bit and able to move on.

I've been interviewing for jobs and I hear you on money>time:( One of the jobs is 5pm-2am + all the OT I want at a very nice payscale but I'd never have anytime for anything but work, chores and sleep.

Stock brackets, especially the shock bracket are a pain. They welded them everywhichway and the added a second layer of metal. I spent much time with the plas, sawzall, grinder and cutoffwheel chopping them out.

As for an update the truck runs. It has an exhaust leak I need to weld up by mirror and apparently my clocking ring - tranny adapter seal is leaking yet again. I have to tear apart the belly tomorrow to get to that and clean/seal it up.

Ok, proof it moves and works in gear. No they aren't fully twisted shots of coolness, but the 4wd works.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link07-11.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link07-9.jpg

Oh and fender clearance, plenty of room for bigger tires with some more cutting here and there. Yes, there is some disparity as the leaf shot has some angle to the tires.

With leafs:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/10-16-06001.jpg
With c/o's:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link07-8.jpg

I picked up a new accessory for the truck today thats going to take a couple days of work to be perfect. I need to do some electrical work; the lack of loom and some of the connections are scary, not to mention the bad ground for the brakes and the crossed up turn signals. Also going to put some extra brake/turn lights on the ramps for uber visibility.

Building some tube structure for true drive over fenders being it's too wide to squeeze through and too heavy to drive over whats there regularly.

Then I need to angle back the attached ramps so I can lesson the tongue load, if that isn't enough it will have to go on backwards. With it scooted back as far as it can now I'd guess tongue load is about 2500 lbs, which is about 2x what it needs to be.

Thinking about replacing a couple deck boards for wear but they don't haaavvvve to be done.

Other than that its got a massive jack, which is amazing. It's a 20ft deck, with 84"s between the fenders, 12.5k lb GVWR, lots of tire tread, locking box up front and a spare. Weight is only 2500lbs so I'm right where I need to be to keep the class IV hitch on the truck currently.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Trailer01001.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Trailer01004.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Trailer01002.jpg

Well we had a glorious lack of visibility on the back of this thing, not to mention a lack of the 3 needed marker lights in the middle.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Trailer0-4.jpg

Solution, led stop/turns, 3 red led markers and 2 new marker lights for the front as well as some reflective tape.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Trailer0-2.jpg

Time to build a visible marker light housing.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Trailer0-3.jpg

Fin.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Trailer0-1.jpg

Much better and I'm not even talking about the lawn chairs and flag for today, our day of celebration of independence.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Trailer0.jpg

Hacked off the trailer ramps by cutting out the bottom of the effective box so I can still positively latch them to the trailer for loading. I'm keeping the legs so when I'm loading I don't stress out the tongue or the trailer frame more than need be.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Trailer0-6.jpg

The hoops retaining the position locking straps for the ramps also were removed.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Trailer0-5.jpg

Cleaned out the slightly rusting box on the front, wiped it down, primered and painted it up. Much better and almost ready to store stuff.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Trailer0-7.jpg

Time to go out and work on the driveover fenders.

Well we had a glorious lack of visibility on the back of this thing, not to mention a lack of the 3 needed marker lights in the middle.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Trailer0-4.jpg

Solution, led stop/turns, 3 red led markers and 2 new marker lights for the front as well as some reflective tape.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Trailer0-2.jpg

Time to build a visible marker light housing.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Trailer0-3.jpg

Fin.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Trailer0-1.jpg

Much better and I'm not even talking about the lawn chairs and flag for today, our day of celebration of independence.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Trailer0.jpg

Hacked off the trailer ramps by cutting out the bottom of the effective box so I can still positively latch them to the trailer for loading. I'm keeping the legs so when I'm loading I don't stress out the tongue or the trailer frame more than need be.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Trailer0-6.jpg

The hoops retaining the position locking straps for the ramps also were removed.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Trailer0-5.jpg

Cleaned out the slightly rusting box on the front, wiped it down, primered and painted it up. Much better and almost ready to store stuff.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Trailer0-7.jpg

Time to go out and work on the driveover fenders.

Nice trailer what did it set you back?

Nice trailer what did it set you back?

I gave up $2900 for it which seemed fair for the market. I thought about buying a POS and building it into something usable but I can't say I'll have the time.

Some paint here and there and a few cheapy mods and this trailer is ready to go.

I cut down the jack handle 4.5"s. It was designed to lift some heavy loads so the handle was huge and the effort to pick up near 1/2 the weight of my rig and the front half of the trailer convinced me the arm was too long, I could have done it in my sleep. Now the throw is more manageable.


http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Trailer03002.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Trailer03005.jpg

I had to build a tube structure to drive over as the fender wasn't supporting the weight of my truck well. Just bent some leftover 1-1/2" .120 1018 HREW in 6 places and added 2 runners down to the trailer frame. This way I can guide the driver tire just inboard of the driver fender and crawl the passenger side without looking. I'm planning to slap some no-slip grip tape onto the tube like my sliders to keep the tire from slipping.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Trailer03003.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Trailer03004.jpg

Lastly I got some new rims to replace the old chipped slightly rusting white rims.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Trailer03006.jpg

Well I spent $12 in paint and some time taping off the tires and pulling the wheels and painting them so they're kind of new:flipoff2:

what was the setup that you had before ie... springs, shackles, and what size tire were you clearing. i need to clear 35x14.50 and still have a decent ride. dont want it to ride like a tank

what was the setup that you had before ie... springs, shackles, and what size tire were you clearing. i need to clear 35x14.50 and still have a decent ride. dont want it to ride like a tank

Emailed you back regarding the 80e btw.

Before it was used ORU brackets, installed according to directions, 3" lift 52" Alcan's with a 1.5" offset pin towards the front, 6" (IIRC) shackles, 1" zero rate with 1.5" of offset and 6* of taper and some Bilstein 5100's.

what did end doing for front spring rates just trying to get close to the right rate for the same truck, also how much spring sag, any help wouuld be very helpfull

you are runing 14"s up front right

what did end doing for front spring rates just trying to get close to the right rate for the same truck, also how much spring sag, any help wouuld be very helpfull

you are runing 14"s up front right

12" 300in/lb over a 16" 450in/lb. I'm using the set collars to engage the 400 spring fully about an inch into up travel. Another inch up the axles hit the bumps and continue so for 2.5"s until full bump. So I guess I should just say it sits 9.5" on spring compression at ride height.

I like it, the body stays nice and level for the most part.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/BlazerFest08070.jpg

Damn! Lookin good man.

Hey what did your belly clearance end up at?

Sitting at 24"s across the belly now.