I've got this idea, just wondering what you guys think the weaknesses will be.

Basically, chop off the housing ends on a Ford 9", machined some new ones out of solid steel, designed to press fit onto axle tube, and allow a Chevy / Jeep Dana 44 front spindle to be bolted on, that way I can run the same spindle/hub/bearings/calipermount/caliper/rotor/lockout(prolly full-time hubs) in the rear as I have in the front, in a full floater configuration. My concerns are: 1.) axle shaft size will be limited to around 1.35", should be plenty for my 2.5l, SM420, NP231, 5.38's full spool and 35's. I'm currently running early Bronco 28 spline shafts and haven't broken any, yet. 2.) I will machine the housing end to fit the spindle as tight as the front knuckle does, and use grade 8 bolts, will this carry the weight of my Jeep, about 2000lbs including unsprung weight. 3.) Should I machine the inside diameter of the housing end to be a press-fit onto the axle tube, or should I find a lathe big enough to chuck up the whole axle and turn down the OD of the axle tubes to a consistent diameter, and match that on the housing end. 4.) How much tube engagement do I need into the housing end to support the weight and help with alignment issues, is 2" enough? 5.) What steps should I take to ensure proper alignment? I plan to bolt up the spindles, should I make alignment pucks to indes the spindle onto a 1" bar? Or should my press-fit be enough? Take a look at these images and tell me what you think, sorry for the crude rendering, just trying to show my idea, nothing's to scale yet cuz I don't have a spindle at work.

http://www.thunderbayoffroaders.rockcrawler.com/images/fullfloat.BMP
http://www.thunderbayoffroaders.rockcrawler.com/images/fullfloat2.BMP

Heck, why cut off the old ends? Do what Warn does. Drill to fit.

Seriously, my Warn 44 full loat kits uses a front spindle with a new hole drilled in the axle housing...

Preeeeeety Pictures . . . gurgle gurgle . . .

J. J.

One of the reasons I'm doing the full float thing is to build a 9" to 63" WMS to WMS, my current EB 9" is 58" and my tires rub the frame under articulation, plus, I'm narrowing a Ford front to 63" to replace my 60" Wagoneer unit, just need a little more width, but not full size. One of my other concerns is the full floating axles's outer spline count, I'll probably upgrade to a 31 spline spool, since I'm having shafts made anyway, but what about the 19 spline outers so I can run regular Chevy front full-time drive flanges? Will they be strong enough? Does the warn kit use a standard lockout only with the set screw and different spring to combat self unlocking? What spline are the warn full-floater shafts on the outside? If they are like 30 spline lockouts, could I get front stub shafts to match, so I could run the same lockout all the way around?

Preeeeeety lame huh?

gurgle, gurgle, me just a gearhead trapped in a CAD geek body, gurgle, gurgle

I think you would be better off using D70/ 14bolt parts, with a machined hub. This way you could run 35 spline :cool:

Sounds like a very good idea but it is more simple that you think. Don't get to caught up in the end to tube fit because you need to make a jig that holds the new end and just butt weld it to the end of the tube like you would if you just bought 9" ends or were welding on a FF spindle like this
http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/60jig1.jpg

The reason you do it that way is because the housing is almost always bent so if you just slip it on the end of the tube it will not be streight most of the time. You can slip it on and weld it as you want but it isn't the way I would do it.

Originally posted by 4Bangler
One of the reasons I'm doing the full float thing is to build a 9" to 63" WMS to

some 70's f-100's used a 62" wide for 9". might be easier just to get one of those. i used to have one but i sold it. it had the stronger flanged housing and 31spline shafts. just another option

I thought about the earlier F100 axle, but I kinda like the idea of running a full floater, plus cheap disk brakes, and the same parts as the front, also, I could easily swap to 6-lug or 8-lug hubs if I was ever tempted to (like to run the paddles off my 1-ton, like my 4cyl would turn them) plus, with a full float 9" I can pull the third member in a matter of minutes, on the ground, cuz I don't have to mess around with the flanged axles. Does anybody know what the diameter Ford axleshafts are? 28 spline vs. 31 spline vs. 35 spline? Not sure it will matter, since the outerspline would be 19 spline to use standard Dana 44 lockouts, is that my weak link? I'd use 14 bolt outers, got lots of them, but I want to keep 5 on 5.5. Thanks for the tip, 66CJdean, I was thinking an alignment jig machined to fit on an old wheelbearing nut, and fit snug on a 1" alignment bar, then I could tighten the ends down to hold everything straight. Should I leave on alignment puck open for the bar to pass through, or cut teh bar to desired length and used closed pucks? The reason I ask is a local machine shop said I could use a 6' length of 1" solid if I bring it back, no charge, but it's 6' and I can't cut it without buying it.

what are you going to di for shafts? I imagine your'e going to have to buy custom, since at the width you have listed, there's not alot of stock shaft options out there fof the cut/repsline trick.
I think the stongest and most cost effeective thing for you to do is build a SF rear with the Ford 9" big bearing outers. if you plan on having a differential, then you can get 35 splines, no prob. if you want a spool, then you can go all the way up to 40 splines.
FF axles are really for load carrying capacity, not torque capacity. your 2.5L Jeep basically weighs nothing over the rear tires.
I also don't understand why you'd machine your own 9" ford ends. everyone and they're mother makes them aftermarket, and you can get a pair for about $60. you caqn ahve the stick-out fo the SF flanged axles machined to match stock GM caliper brackets to make for an easy disc swap, too.
Id bet the SF way to go is stronger (for your application) and maybe half the price of the FF you have planned.

I hear you on pulling the rear diff ina matter of minutes, but it's gonna take you 10 min, otherwise with a SF to pull the shafts, and you'd still have to dick around with the front axle, which is gonna take a hell of a lot longer in any configuation.

Moser will build any spline combo full floater shaft for $295/pair. If I do SF I'd buy housing ends, but I don't think anyone( except me, maybe) makes a housing end to bolt a GM spindle to a Ford 9" I'll be running a spool, but I don't think I will ever need 40 spline axles. I like the idea of running rear lockouts on the trail and unlocking one to help my turning radius. The full float setup would cut rear 3rd member removal time easily in 1/2, and I've been toying with the idea of throwing my old 3.54:1 open 3rd member in for the drive to Moab (from nothern Michigan, it's a long damn way, I'll prolly put it on a train anyway) then toss the 5.38:1 spooled in before the trail. I'm still concerned about the 19 spline outer and standard Dana 44 lockout or full time drive flange, will they hold up in a rear application?

you can get the housing ends in a front spindle bolt pattern, the very old dana 44's used that flange style for a while. look around. you'd have to machine down the index ring on the back of the spinde so that it registers to the beaing bore on the end of the spindle, but that's easy. I'd skip the 19 spline FSJ drive plates that you seem to be planning on using and pony up the $150 for the Warn FF kit 30 spline drive plates. they should fit in half ton hubs easily.

Originally posted by Sundowner
you can get the housing ends in a front spindle bolt pattern, the very old dana 44's used that flange style for a while. look around.

They won't work. The early willys D44's have a very small diameter tube, and both the tubes and the ends are made of thin metal. That is what I built my trailer axle out of though.

Yeah, I looked at my pile of flat fender axles and thought that the pattern was similar, but not beefy enough. I'd run the Warn FF lockouts or drive flanges, but I'd like to have the same setup in the front, maybe Moser can make me some 30 spline stubs for less than a million dollars.

66cjdean can you explain what you got there in that picture. Looks like a large steel rod with an aluminum chunk on the end. sorry for my ignorance

arndog

They won't work. The early willys D44's have a very small diameter tube, and both the tubes and the ends are made of thin metal. That is what I built my trailer axle out of though.

how thick are the old flanges? the spindles flanges are only 3/8"-ish. I've seen it done before with no problems (that I know of)



maybe Moser can make me some 30 spline stubs for less than a million dollars.
just tell them they're inner shafts, but REALLY short:D
I *think* you can swap the 30spline inner broach gear from a 1-ton Warn hub to a 19 spline, half ton Warn hub, but don't hold me to that.

Here's another shot of his alignment puck, nice work!

http://www.respite.org/images/cj66dean/60jig3.jpg

check out this thread for more info..

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=48833

"I *think* you can swap the 30spline inner broach gear from a 1-ton Warn hub to a 19 spline, half ton Warn hub, but don't hold me to that."

Wow, I wish, I don't think anybody would even sell 19 spline if you could do that, I'm betting not, the Dana 60 hub is huge compared to the Dana44, but maybe I could bore the center out of a Dana 44 part, and turn down the Dana 60 part, and stick the two together with a 220V glue gun. Hmmm, seems the Warn stuff may be easier, damn I hate buying stuff thought, I like to e able to get replacements out of my pile or at any wrecking yard.

I working based off me sitting on the floor in a pepboys with two boxes of hubs that "SOMEBODY" opened up :D
damn, they looked close, tho. maybe I'll go back with my snap ring pliers...

I wonder what just that internal broach gear would cost from Warn?

REEEEAAAALLLLYYY? Cool, you may be my new best friend, but I'm not going to rub your belly. I guess I was thinking Dana 60 full time hub gear vs. Dana 44 ful time hub gear, no way those swap, but swapping the drive gear out of a lockout, now that's thinkin. Of course Warn would prolly charge me the cost of their full-float kit for those gears, but I can dream can't I?

I did some more seaching and came up with this nearly identical thread

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=62536

But I would like to avoid bolting on an adapter to bolt on the spindle, too many things to go wrong. I wonder if Warn's 9" full float kit widens the axle? Of course they won't just sell me the spindles that bolt to the Ford bearing end.

I was actually trying to find a list of the diameters of the different spline combos available for Ford 9"

28 spline = ?"dia
31 spline = ?"dia
35 spline = ?"dia

also, the spline diamters for Dana front outer stubs,

Dana 44 19 spline =?dia
Dana 60 30 spline =1.285"dia
Dana 60 35 spline =1.5"dia

Warn full float outer spline = 30spline, 1.285"dia

(edit) found some sizes on another thread (edit)

moser has that data.
by definition, the ff kit does not affect track width becuase it uses the stock brakes over again
(well, ok, it increases by the thickness of the spindle flange x2, but basically nothing)
I have kit on my CJ's model 20

I was going to do exactly what you describe, then got concerned about the strength of the lockout hubs on the rear. I took a 9", and welded the ends off of a 14 bolt to it to get full float. the 14 bolt shafts are large enough to get cut and resplined to 31 spline ford carrier size. works great. I kept it 8 lug with rear discs, but I think you could manage to get it converted to 5 on 5-1/2. I think the pictures of the alignment pucks of Dean's are the ones he made for me. they worked great. If you have any other questions, let me know.

Chad

I've had a dozen or so 14 bolts in my life three of them with disk brakes, (the first was a TSM bracket - the rest were copies I made) and really loved them, swapping 14 bolt outer would be my next step if I planned on going over 35's, but I'd like to be able to run lockouts or removable drive flanges, which brings me to another question, why hasn't anyone built a lockout or drive flange setup for a 14 bolt yet? Seems easy enough, and it beats pulling the shafts and installing dummies.

I've looked all over Moser's site for spline diameter dimensions, but can't seem to locate them, any other sources?

Does the warn kit use a standard lockout only with the set screw and different spring to combat self unlocking? What spline are the warn full-floater shafts on the outside? If they are like 30 spline lockouts, could I get front stub shafts to match, so I could run the same lockout all the way around? [/B][/QUOTE]

Correct. Warn uses a standard lockout with a set screw and spring. They're 30 spline chro-moly all around. I know they make a kit for a 9" as well.
I run their rear 30 spline lockouts on my front 44 as well. I had Warn make me a 30 spline chromoly outer stub shaft. I am 30 spline inner and outer instead of 27 outer.

These guys make a flange for the Warn hubs

http://www.r-p4wd.com/java/product_pages/randp7.htm

Not gonna swear they would fit front d44 spindles, but they look like they would.

If you have the machining skills, the new flange would be easy to make and then you could use all junk yard parts (butt weld on with an alignment bar like Dean suggested). Warn makes 30 spline 1/2 ton hubs that would fit ford/chevy wheel hubs (ff kits don't use the set screw any more). Or, you could get drive flanges for full float kit. Get custom ff axles from dutchman as they are 4340 warn blanks.

Another option if you want the strongest setup is to buy a 35 spline full float kit from warn (if they still offer it). The kit has 1 ton wheel hubs/bearings/spindles and of course 35 spline 4340 shafts. It still has a 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern and you can use it with your stock brakes or warn disk brakes.

HTH

I've looked all over Moser's site for spline diameter dimensions, but can't seem to locate them, any other sources?


I kinda figured this out on my own, no one ever told me if it was right or wrong, feel free to correct me if anybody knows better.

a "spline" is a US standard spline. it is a certain length from peak to valley. larger spline count is stronger becuase the shaft itslef must be a larger diameter to hold the extra splines.

from hazy memory
35 spline shafts are 1.5"
30 spline ff shafts are 1.31"
27 spline (stock CJ front) are 1.25"-ish.

19 spline front 44 shafts are coarse spline and don't fall into the above.

I don't have the machining skills myself, just the design skills, but I have an out of work club member with machining skills and equipment, so I thought I would throw him a bone. I'd rather use all junkyard parts (I have them all anyway) but now I'm thinking of using the Warn 30 spline lockouts and replacing my fronts to match. R&P looks like they make the housing end already, so unless my guy can build a couple for less than $120, I'll go that route.

"from hazy memory "

sounds pretty good, I found another thread that listed 30 spline as being 1.285, but either way it will fit through my 1.350 spindle. 35 spline might be a bit overkill for a 2.5l Jeep on 35's If I had to go to 14bolt housing ends, I'd just jump to 40 spline gundrilled super titanium kyptonite shafts, then my crankshaft would come flying out of the block before I ever broke an axle shaft.

Okay, so do I go all out and jump up to 30 spline outers for the front and have 31/30 spline shafts made for the rear & buy four new lockouts, or, do you think the 19 coarse spline Dana 44 setup would work in the rear, so I could keep all my spares including my 19 spline spare tire carrier with spare rotating hub, spindle and lockout, run off the shelf drive flanges in the rear, keep my lockouts and outer stub shafts, etc?

If it was my jeep I would use all 19 spline stuff. It is nearly a strong as 30 spline and with the shafts being 4340, they are about twice the yield strength as stock. You'll never break anything with the 4 banger. The nice thing about it is you can use all junk yard parts and keep the project fairly inexpensive.

Watch it now, it's no stock 4cyl, hell, it's got a K&N, maybe I should look at 60's

Okay, now about aligning, I know this has been covered elsewhere, but I was wondering if a threaded puck on the spindle with a 1" bar passing through will be enough, it's a 9", so I can't put pucks in the 3rd member and torque them down to hold the alignment bar, pucks inside the bearings maybe? or alignment bar that fits the bearings? or pucks that I can pass the bar through to keep it close?

Originally posted by 4Bangler
I like the idea of running rear lockouts on the trail and unlocking one to help my turning radius.

yeah i'd like to see how long that one hub you leave locked in will last! that would be a very weak link and who the heck wants to climb out and lock and unlock a hub all the time? i still think it would be light, cheaper, and easier to stay semi floating and get a set of 35spline shafts and a spool. just my op.

also rear disc's on a semi floating axle are no harder than a ff.

"yeah i'd like to see how long that one hub you leave locked in will last!"

Yup, I agree, it would just be for those PITA situations that the spool gets in the way, real tight turns, prolly in front wheel low, just to take some bind off, like sliding the front end around. Or just pushing the damn thing around in my driveway, ever try to turn a non-running Jeep with a spool around in your driveway by yourself?

"also rear disc's on a semi floating axle are no harder than a ff"

Yeah, except that I have all the stuff to do it FF, all the same stuff as my front, plus, it would make a switch to 6-lug or 8-lug super quick, if I ever needed to do something like that, I've got enough six and eight lug hubs to do all four on three Jeeps.

R&P off road makes the housing end, $120/pr, so that's taken care of, I can either find some early chevy 1/2 ton spindles that use the small bearing (I need to replace my fronts too) or get some large bearing spindles turned down for $80 or so/pr, or, I can get a set of 6 lug hubs redrilled to 5 lug for $50/pr through Moser, and use the large bearing spindles, and my Chevy outers would finally fit right and hold the lockout tight. Plus if I used the large bearing spindles, I could swap to 8 lug as quick as pulling the hub and throwing on the other, not that I would do that all the time, but it would be cool to be able to do.

Originally posted by 4Bangler
One of the reasons I'm doing the full float thing is to build a 9" to 63" WMS to WMS, my current EB 9" is 58" and my tires rub the frame under articulation, plus, I'm narrowing a Ford front to 63" to replace my 60" Wagoneer unit, just need a little more width, but not full size. One of my other concerns is the full floating axles's outer spline count, I'll probably upgrade to a 31 spline spool, since I'm having shafts made anyway, but what about the 19 spline outers so I can run regular Chevy front full-time drive flanges? Will they be strong enough? Does the warn kit use a standard lockout only with the set screw and different spring to combat self unlocking? What spline are the warn full-floater shafts on the outside? If they are like 30 spline lockouts, could I get front stub shafts to match, so I could run the same lockout all the way around?

I have been thinking about the same type thing, but using a HP 60 axle for the rear of my 2A, I already have it. I can either do the more common/easy route, and go with 14 bolt outers, and respline the axle to 35 spline, for the carrier. Or I have been searcing this board for a while, several weeks, for the right info on a 60 spindle that will accept a 1.5" axle, and the correct hubs, to use with lockout and or drive flanges. I have a set of 70 axles, that are already 35 spline for the carrier, just have to respline the hub side. Just looking for some input. The 14 bolt outer is probably what I will do. But the 60 lockout has its merrit also.
Input appreciated, Andy

I bought the Warn FF kit for the TJ d44. Still sitting in my garadge. Decided to build my own. I used a 44 housing from a 76 cherokee wide track and began by retubing it- something that you aren't going to do if I understand you. 63" wide.
Built my own adapters like you asked, no need for the alignment jig- .0005" clearance - press on and weld. No room for misalignment. The shafts are Moser 1.31 30 dana cut 30 spline inner and 30 spline Toyota cut outer end. Spindles are Toyota fronts from solid axle PU. (Insestructable) 6 lug.
Breaks are from toyota supra so they are easy hydraulic hook up. Rotors are from the Toyota pu. I did have to build my own bracket, easiest thing I've done so far.

let the steel fly.

press was 3/4" all thread and big sockets.

and..

That's alot like what I was thinking, but I'm using the Chevy parts cuz I got lots of them laying around. Actually, I found that R&P offroad makes the housing end already, and Moser will cut down my 9" and weld the ends on in thier jig for $85.00. I still rather do it myself, but I think it would cost me more, and I'm so far behind schedule on this, and I'm having Moser built the shafts anyway, that I'll prolly have them do it.

Your simple alignment seems like it would do the trick, but in the 9" I would have to run the all thread all the way across the housing, and there would be no way to align with the carrier. Hmmm....maybe I'll do a Dana axle someday, for now I think I'll have Moser do it.

4Bangler: check this out:
http://bb.bc4x4.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4742

Cornjeeper and I are doing this same build-up, but the jury is still out on 19-spline versus 30-spline. Personally I'm almost certainly going to go 19, using factory drive flanges and Dutchman 4340 shafts - not Moser.

You may find that the guy who made our adapter flanges is a better deal, even when you factor in the shipping from Vancouver.

Other misc info: Moser's D44 shafts are made from 1.32" dia stock. There's a CR seal (p/n 13112) that fits a 2.25" bore and a 1.313" shaft that we designed these flanges around. When we order our shafts, we'll be specifying a polished 1.313" surface for the seal, plus the snap ring groove for the hub.

Chris

Wow, looks like the picture I had bouncing around in my head...
http://bb.bc4x4.com/attachment.php?postid=28794
...I like, I like, I like! Your housing end...
http://bb.bc4x4.com/attachment.php?postid=28802
...looks like it butts to the axle tube...
http://bb.bc4x4.com/attachment.php?postid=28801
...why not press in and weld? Are those Chevy/Jeep caliper brackets with the tin sheilds removed? Sure looks like it. I too am debating the 30 spline or 19 spline outer, 19 spline=lots of spare hubs and drive flanges (I gots lots o Chebby stuff) 30 spline=more $$ and no spares. What's the cost on the Dutchman shafts? When I originally came up with this idea two years ago, Dutchman gave me some wild price on shafts and Moser's $295/pair was way better. I'm thinking of using these ends...
http://www.r-p4wd.com/java/product_images/axle-end.jpg
...for $120/pair. I'll have to machine the index on the back of the spindle to use them, I'd rather used unmodified GM spindles for ease of replacement, what does you end use? I'm also debating on the inner spline, I've got a 28 spline spool and stock Early Bronco shafts right now, not sure what they look like inside, but they've held up for a year of hell. I may go to a 31 spline spool when I go full float, but that's another $155. I don't think 35 spline would fit through the spindle, how much stronger is 31 spline anyway? Nice shave job by the way, thinking of that as well, with a friggin drain plug some where.

Id sugguest using a jig, regardless of how close your press-fit method may seem. Most 15+ year old axle housings are not as straight as one would hope

If I do it myself I'd use a jig, just wondering why all the housign ends butt to the end of the tube, rather than press over it, I assume it is to combat misalignment of the tube, but it I could get a lathe big enough, I press a raw steel block onto the ends and achine it down true to the axle.

Assume the axle is bent. Without a monster lathe and some real tricky setup (I really can't imagine how you'd do it) there's no way to guarantee alignment between the carrier bearings and the new flanges, except to use a jig and butt-weld.

Press-fit would be a lot stronger, but consider that all the FF kits out there bolt up to the factory flanges, which are butt-welded to the housings. I'm going to weld some tubing sections over top of the main seams on mine, for extra reinforcement.

The axle outers are GM/Wag D44 small-bearing spindles, Wag caliper brackets & calipers, and Ford 1/2-ton hubs & rotors. Standard recipe for front discs on a Ford D44 front, same as we're running up front.

Got a pair of 19-spline drive flanges you could send me, in exchange for all this helpful advice? :D

Chris

"Got a pair of 19-spline drive flanges you could send me, in exchange for all this helpful advice?"

I have a pair I'll trade for a pair of those housing ends :D

The ends made by R&P are stepped in increments to allow welding to several different ID tubes, but the ends you are using look much beefier, those ends require that the spindle index be turned down, I assume to allow more meat between the spindle bolt holes and the index bore, what does your end do in this area?

I'm currently running the same spindle, hub, rotor setup as you are in the front, but I had some of the full circle heavy steel caliper brackets, so I used those. I may run the 1/2 brackets (for lack of a better term) in the future (I have several of them) for better cleaning.

I'm considering having one of the many sets of 6-lug hubs I have redrilled to 5-lug and using the later and more common GM large bearing spindle, as the one on my Jeep now are the only ones I could find and are just about shot. The large bearing GM spindle would also allow me to quickly swap to a set of 8-lug hubs I have laying around.

How much for the housing ends you had made? E-mail me an address and I'll send you a pair of drive flanges COD.

do a search for user name 'strong_like_tractor'. his name is JP and he made the flanges for chris and i in his CNC

cwate,

I just realised that I read the buildup info on your Jeep quite a while ago, nice work by the way, I printed it out for one of my club members that is doing the EB axle swap in his Chevy 350 powered YJ. I tried talking him into running the coil and radius arm suspension in it, but he's too chicken.

I was looking at this pic.....

http://bb.bc4x4.com/attachment.php?postid=28801

....and noticed a severe lack of any bolt or spindle stud heads on the back side of the housing end, suggesting that you guys are using threaded studs to hold the spindle on. Any concern that the threads will pull out? Or are the hole counter bored and you're using allen head bolts or something that doesn't show up in the pic?

I'm considering having one of the many sets of 6-lug hubs I have redrilled to 5-lug and using the later and more common GM large bearing spindle

That would be cool. I"m having a tough time finding a pair of small-bearing spindles. If I can't find any, I think rather than having the 6-lug rotors redrilled, I'll have a pair of big-bearing spindles turned down to fit the smaller inner bearing, for the Ford rotors.

How much for the housing ends you had made?

They're cheap in $US, let's put it that way. Contact JP (aka strong_like_tractor) and he'll get you a quote. The pairs that he turned out for me & cornjeeper were the first ones he ever made, and they're pretty damn nice.

Thanks for the offer on the drive flanges, BTW. I'm going to do one least scouring of the local wreckers, and if I can't find any I'll drop you a line.

noticed a severe lack of any bolt or spindle stud heads on the back side of the housing end, suggesting that you guys are using threaded studs to hold the spindle on.

No studs. Check out the photo of the flange - the six holes for the spindle are threaded. We'll just use a set of 3/8" grade-8 NF bolts to hold the spindles & caliper brackets in place. Bear in mind that all the weight load is carried by the machined recess that the spindle base flange rests in. The bolts just keep the spindle etc. in place.

those ends require that the spindle index be turned down, I assume to allow more meat between the spindle bolt holes and the index bore, what does your end do in this area?

Our flanges have a machined recess (on the other side, in the photo) that is exactly the same size as the hole in the 6-bolt D44 knuckle. The GM/Wag spindle base is a very light press fit into the flange, as you'd expect.

Chris

Cool, I think I'll end up getting housing ends from JP, I like the idea of using off-the-shelf spindles rather than having to turn-down the index on the back.

I e-mailed JP and am patiently waiting his responce.

I have several large bearing spindles, but only three small bearing ones that are shot and on my Jeep anyway, I thought about turning down the big bearing ones, but Moser will redrill a pair of 6-lug hubs for the cost of turning down a pair of spindles, and there's less chance of f-ing sumthin up. Plus, with the big bearing spindles I can slap on a set of 8-lug hubs, rotors, and caliper plates and look like one of the big boys.

I'm a little worried about holding the spindle on with the treads of the spindle bolts, the old closed knuckle Jeep axles were like that with threaded studs, and they were known for tearing the studs out of the housing, hell, even the closed knuckle Dana 60's and 70's are known for that. I think I would rather have a bolt come through from the back of the housing end, even if the head had to be clearanced to snug up to the tube.

Shoot me an e-mail with your address, I'll send you soem drive flanges, I can't walk across my living room without tripping over at least one set, I always keep them for spares in case I fragg out a lockout.

I'm a little worried about holding the spindle on with the treads of the spindle bolts,

Whatever you end up doing here, the load will always be carried by threads at some point... unless you're planning on using rivets? :p :D

The flange is 3/4" thick where the threaded holes are, and they're made of solid steel. I'm not worried :)

Chris (don't sweat it, in other words)