I looked at a 65 body on an 85 3/4ton frame and runnin gear and it has a 14 rear but I am pretty sure its not the FF14 though. It has a 10 bolt front and I did search here in the tech section and from what I can tell the 10 bolt is very similar to a 44, on paper any way. And I will also add I dont know much about GM stuff except motors and I know the 14FF is a hoss so any info is great.

I really want a 1 ton with a 60 but that is proving very difficult, and the reason I want a chevy is for the pass drop to one day swap the runnin gear into my jeep.

Any info or advice on the 10 bolt or where else to search would be great.
Thanks

keep lookinh buddy, a 14ff is easily identified by the axle shafts being bolted on at the very end of the axle, also if you look near the pinion there will be bolts on a ff and not an sf. with a front 10 bolt its most likely an sf rear. i would leave that truck unless its dirt cheap. the 10 bolt is weaker than a 44 and definitely not the axle you want to use in a project at a later date, keep looking and find what you want. dont settle.

:shaking: what part of the 10 is weaker than the d44?

they are the same, if anything the 10b has a thicker pinion shank, other wise they are identical is strength.

in my experience 10 bolts break more, ive used both and always had problems with the 10 bolt axle shafts, twisted the splines of several inners, and broke the u-joints and shafts at the u joint many times as well. if your gonna spend some cash and get upgraded shafts the 10 bolt is fine. i didnt have as many problems with the 44 and it has much stronger aftermarket support.

I think 10 bolts(front and rear) up til 88-89 used 28 spline shafts, then went to 30 for a couple years before solid axles were phased out completely in the front of chevys.

the shafts are identical up to the neck down, if you break a 10 youll break a 44.


the shaft thing is a divenign point, if you are going to sink $700 is into full shaft with marginale joints[$1000 with super joints] then why not just by the d60.

if you have some sort of comitment like an arb,ox, spanky diff or lots of trick suspenion work then i could see some one wanting to stay with their current axle.

in the end you would still be left with a weeaker axle than a stock d60.

anyways just to provide so spec info


they use the same bearings, stub shafts, spindles, knuckles, brakes, backing plates, rotors, hubs, locking hubs, wheel studs and balljoints.

the housing's are different and the guts are not interchangeble. the tubes are smaller od on one of them but the mid 70's d44 have .50" thick tubes where as the early d44 and 10b have .375" think.

there are some small differences but like all things, they are minor and easy to change.

the early d44 1/2t use a smaller spindle and inner wheel beaering, the outer wheel bearing and shaft bearing are the same from 69-91. the 3/4t d44 and both 1/2 3/4t 10b use the same larger stronger spindle.

the 10b stub shaft has a extra snap ring groove close to the end of the spindle, it is not mandatory but will help to seal the seals to the back of the spindle. again both d44 and 10b stub shafts are 100% swappable.

the inner axle shafts are not interchangeble at all. they are differnt lentghs and splinee counts. the d44 from 69-78ish[the end of the d44] have 30. the 78-87 10bs had 28 splines, the 88-91 had 30. they are not any stronger they neck down to the same diam.

the knuckles are interchangeble from 69-91. you can make cross over on any truck by using the pre 69-75 knuckles, and i say knuckleS, the earlier knuckel the tierod taper comes from the top, the later ones come up from the bottom. i dont know the exact year of the change.

the early 69-72 d44 had a hollow tube steel tierod.
the 73-78 d44 had a solid steel rod.
the 10b went back to a shorter steel tube becuase the tre had the steering stabilizer mount made into it. it is the same tre used on the solid steel d44 tierod for the short end.

the 10b tie rod makes and excelent cross over drag link. just by the cheaper 7/8 x 18 tpi tapand you can very easily make it any length you need and use the factory tre's.

I think 10 bolts(front and rear) up til 88-89 used 28 spline shafts, then went to 30 for a couple years before solid axles were phased out completely in the front of chevys.

they did, but like i typed, and you didnt see yet, they are the same neck down which make the spline count moot, it will allways break at the neck before it eats the splines, diff, and typicaly the yoke.

the shafts are identical up to the neck down, if you break a 10 youll break a 44.


the shaft thing is a divenign point, if you are going to sink $700 is into full shaft with marginale joints[$1000 with super joints] then why not just by the d60.

if you have some sort of comitment like an arb,ox, spanky diff or lots of trick suspenion work then i could see some one wanting to stay with their current axle.

in the end you would still be left with a weeaker axle than a stock d60.

anyways just to provide so spec info


they use the same bearings, stub shafts, spindles, knuckles, brakes, backing plates, rotors, hubs, locking hubs, wheel studs and balljoints.

the housing's are different and the guts are not interchangeble. the tubes are smaller od on one of them but the mid 70's d44 have .50" thick tubes where as the early d44 and 10b have .375" think.

there are some small differences but like all things, they are minor and easy to change.

the early d44 1/2t use a smaller spindle and inner wheel beaering, the outer wheel bearing and shaft bearing are the same from 69-91. the 3/4t d44 and both 1/2 3/4t 10b use the same larger stronger spindle.

the 10b stub shaft has a extra snap ring groove close to the end of the spindle, it is not mandatory but will help to seal the seals to the back of the spindle. again both d44 and 10b stub shafts are 100% swappable.

the inner axle shafts are not interchangeble at all. they are differnt lentghs and splinee counts. the d44 from 69-78ish[the end of the d44] have 30. the 78-87 10bs had 28 splines, the 88-91 had 30. they are not any stronger they neck down to the same diam.

the knuckles are interchangeble from 69-91. you can make cross over on any truck by using the pre 69-75 knuckles, and i say knuckleS, the earlier knuckel the tierod taper comes from the top, the later ones come up from the bottom. i dont know the exact year of the change.

the early 69-72 d44 had a hollow tube steel tierod.
the 73-78 d44 had a solid steel rod.
the 10b went back to a shorter steel tube becuase the tre had the steering stabilizer mount made into it. it is the same tre used on the solid steel d44 tierod for the short end.

the 10b tie rod makes and excelent cross over drag link. just by the cheaper 7/8 x 18 tpi tapand you can very easily make it any length you need and use the factory tre's.



DANG!!!!!!!!

You know a LOT about dana 44s and 10 bolts!!

I learned a lot by reading all that

the shafts are identical up to the neck down, if you break a 10 youll break a 44.

edit: you mean the SHAFT. not the housing... not the teeth on the ring gear..
the 44 has been noted to have smaller teeth on the ring gear, the 10 bolt has the weaker housing.

the shaft thing is a divenign point, if you are going to sink $700 is into full shaft with marginale joints[$1000 with super joints] then why not just by the d60.

where do you buy your shafts? i paid 320 for mine with joints.?


the housing's are different and the guts are not interchangeble. the tubes are smaller od on one of them but the mid 70's d44 have .50" thick tubes where as the early d44 and 10b have .375" think.


Only on fords and jeeps were the tubes .375 thick.GM housings were .5 even with the early ones, as long as they had open knuckles. 76 and earlier had 2 7/8 tubes, and .5 wall thickness.

i dont know the exact year of the change.

77, from what I know.

This may be getting a little off topic but, the truck has a 327 with 2000 miles on the rebuild, freshly rebuilt TH400 and tcase wich I think is a 208 but not sure, and 38x12.50 tsls with about 75% tread, and the 10 bolt front and SF rear, all for 1,500. Dont know if its worth it or not but it would be something to play with for a while and the body is in pretty poor shape too if that matters.

On the 65 chevy you were looking at?

I would take it.

But I am a sucker for those years of trucks...

On the 65 chevy you were looking at?

I would take it.

But I am a sucker for those years of trucks...

Yeah, that is for the 65 on 85 3/4 ton runnin gear, I guess I wasnt that clear, is $1,500 a good deal on the stuff in my last post?

I really just want a chevy 60 and 14FF for my jeep, thats why I was lookin at this truck but if it runs as good as he says it may be worth gettin just to have.

And again I know quite a few people really like the 65 chevys but it is in pretty bad shape.

Since you say the body is bad, no I would not pay anywhere near 1500 for that thing.

edit: you mean the SHAFT. not the housing... not the teeth on the ring gear..
the 44 has been noted to have smaller teeth on the ring gear, the 10 bolt has the weaker housing.

where do you buy your shafts? i paid 320 for mine with joints.?



Only on fords and jeeps were the tubes .375 thick.GM housings were .5 even with the early ones, as long as they had open knuckles. 76 and earlier had 2 7/8 tubes, and .5 wall thickness.


77, from what I know.

i did mean the shafts, thats why i said shafts and not r&p.

i priced them off the first vendor site i looked at, i think it was poly performance, 140each for stubs, 225 and 250 for inners.

The only front axle used in 3/4 ton trucks from about '78-'79 on was the 8-lug 10-bolt...so the comment that "if it's a 10-bolt front than likely a 14SF rear" makes no sense. Just as likely to have either rear axle.

$320 sounds like a hell of a deal for a complete set of upgraded shafts and u-joints..........you do know they were talking about "upgraded" shafts, not OEM replacements?

The only front axle used in 3/4 ton trucks from about '78-'79 on was the 8-lug 10-bolt...so the comment that "if it's a 10-bolt front than likely a 14SF rear" makes no sense. Just as likely to have either rear axle.

Since it's an '85, I'm gonna go ahead and say he is correct, 14bsf.

The only front axle used in 3/4 ton trucks from about '78-'79 on was the 8-lug 10-bolt...so the comment that "if it's a 10-bolt front than likely a 14SF rear" makes no sense. Just as likely to have either rear axle.

$320 sounds like a hell of a deal for a complete set of upgraded shafts and u-joints..........you do know they were talking about "upgraded" shafts, not OEM replacements?

yukons.

so you got 4 yokon shafts with joints for $320.

no buddy deals, kick downs, sponcership rebates/rembercments, 4 shafts over the counter.

so you got 4 yokon shafts with joints for $320.

no buddy deals, kick downs, sponcership rebates/rembercments, 4 shafts over the counter.

well, my buddy IS a dealer for yukon parts... i got em at his cost.

so, yeah, i got a discount.

well then how can you bach at the cost of shafts and brag about what you paid if you got the best end of the stick?

:shaking:SHAME ON YOU grumpy

i got a 10 bolt with 44 shafts they had to cut off the knuckles and shortin one side so while they where at it they clocked the pinion up a few degrees too

wtf! why? why bother? why would you buy it? why would anybody go through so much effort?

wtf! why? why bother? why would you buy it? why would anybody go through so much effort?

somebody else did it i bought it on the cheap so no worrys it also has a detroit ez locker and i paid like 100 bucks for the axle as it sat

does anyone know if there is a 205 transfer case that will bolt to a 1992 nv4500 tranny that had a 241 transfer case bolted to it. tranny has a 32 spline output shaft that sticks out about 1/4 inch past rear face of adapter. tranny is out of a 92 3/4 ton chev. been working on a 51 dodge m37. now trying to put together 383 stroker to use with the 4500 and 205 combo. using a 86 GMC body and bed on a 75 chev 4x4 frame. any help appreciated. thanks

please try to filter out all the useless info in this post, then delete this post and start your own thread. it make children cry and the litterates gouge there eyes out.

or in other words..... WTF!!!!

well, my buddy IS a dealer for yukon parts... i got em at his cost.

so, yeah, i got a discount.

What type of u-joints?