Thought I would post some pics of my installation and a few other things that I found along the way..Nothing really special but I thought it may help someone

My kit is the fuel only kit and has to be one of the easiest installations I have done..but I did have to read the directions alot...I also had to make a few calls to friends that have dealt with this kit before.All of this stuff is in the directions if you read them enough times but I thought I would post it up for people searching for info on this system...

Coolant temp sensor..mounted just below the throttle body in one of the two ports available..The existing threads are close enough to just rethread with a 3/8 pipe tap.(without drilling)
Map sensor....made a mounting plate and provided a vaccum source(mounting plate available from LC engineering)
TPS...flip it around and wire it up.read the directions a few times before doing this and make sure that the tps itself is in working order,three out of the four I had laying around didn't work.
ECU ...mount the ecu in a dry place with plugs facing down to avoid moisture issues (not water tight connection)
Mixture knob...mount someplace that you can reach while operating the vehicle..you need to use it during the tuning process ...after that you shouldn't need it....

more info in a bit..

The kit I used uses a carbed vaccum advance distibutor..Since I was setting this up in a buggy that had already been running with a stripped down Toy efi harness I ran into one problem...My shock brace/upper radiator mount got in the way of the vaccum pot on the distributor...after some research I found that the mechanical advance was enough advance without using the vaccum advance..I don't have any pictures of the process but if you look at a carbed distributor you'll be able to see what I'm talking about...

I removed the vaccum pot,cut off the end that stuck into the dis. and made sort of a plug with a little arm that held the assemly in place. ...poor description I know...but you CAN run this system with mechanical advance only..

for the ignition system I switched to a MSD box and coil..you can use the stock Toy coil and ignitor but I was lazy and the directions were easier to figure out if I made the switch :D

one really cool thing in my opinion is that you can get rid of the restrictive bulky AFM and mount the air cleaner directly to the throttle body.

everything after this is plug n play...Hopfully one of you smart fawkers gets on here a posts up some tuning/fuel mapping info :D


links
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324372&highlight=sds%2A
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=648546
http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/ProductSearch.aspx?Class=15010
http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/ProductSearch.aspx?Class=15011
http://www.sdsefi.com/
http://www.network54.com/Forum/150383/


If anybody has any info on the SDS please post it here ...I would have liked to find it all in one place when I was doing it.

Forgot this part..
Fuel rail..to plug the fuel rail where the cold start injector used to be(using the stock bolt) I took a small nut and put the original washers on each side..kind of hack but it has not leaked yet :D

You can get a short bolt for the fuel rail where the cold start was. The bolt has a different thread pitch so they might be hard to find

forgot this too..
air temp sensor..mounts where cold start injector used to be..I made this mounting plate but LC Engineering sells one too

some install pics

The quality of wiring on these cars is awesome.
I am going to have to go in and clean up some of my mess.

One thing to mention is that it is actually a 3/8" npt tap. Not 3/4".

I should have mine done this weekend. Still have a few wires to hook up as well as the coil packs. After that I will have some time for pics. I had to redrill the Hall sensor mount for the underdrive pulley I got from LC. THey have the magnets real far in on the crank pulley. Hope all is good there. Other than that it has bee a dream. Makes me feel like I know something about engines it is so simple.

Opps on the tap size. When you start tuning the system make small adjustments. its easy to over do it. The cool thing about the SDS is that you can run the electric fan and fuel pump with it,

I have the SDS system on my x-chassis and also on the Marlin Crawler formula Toy. My X-chassis is just like Aaron's, I didn't get the crank trigger ignition, I used a Carbureted distributor. The Formula Toy has the crank trigger ignition and I gotta say, I'm not totally impressed. I can't tell any difference in horse power (though they claim a 15hp increase with the crank trigger ignition) and the ignition is quirkey. It does weard things at times. Though it runs great, I have had to put ALOT of time into it getting it just right and it still does weard things once in while.
I would definitely reccommend that you buy the fan control and the fuel pump control when you buy the unit. They are already set up to control these items, they just add the wire in the plug for you. Both of these controls work great, with no problems and you don't have to worry about the fuel pump cause the computer handles it just like the oem system.

One thing to mention is that it is actually a 3/8" npt tap. Not 3/4".



fixed...thanks

Pardon me for hijacking this thread - Aaron, it seems your FT is running either 3 link or 4 link now. Sway away shocks got my attention. Inquiring minds want to know. :D

Pardon me for hijacking this thread - Aaron, it seems your FT is running either 3 link or 4 link now. Sway away shocks got my attention. Inquiring minds want to know. :DHis is an X-chassis, not an F-Toy

like todd said,it's an x chassis..I posted this in here because most of the questions that I hear/read regarding the sds system seem to come from f-toy builders

Got my SDS fired up and running this weekend. All was well and simple as had been said.
My only bad experience has been with the magnets and hall sensor.

I got it all hooked up and tried to fire with the sensor at the 10:00 position as I had seen on Marlins and from where it looked like the bracket fit the best as well as with the bolt lengths I recieved. Tried firing and no go.

Put a call into LC and talked to one guy who know a little.
Apparently this is the wrong location for what they set me. I recieved a thin bracket that does mount in the 10:00 position. Magnets are not drilled in this location though. They are drilled for the 6:00 position

I have a 94 engine and drivetrain. Apparently the oil pump is nearly an inch deeper on late model than early. This means the bracket is too thin. They do have a thick bracket for the application according to the pics LC sent me that mounts at the 6:00 position. I will have to talk to them today to get a hold of it. I did make it work with what I had, but a thicker bracket will be more piece of mind.

Once that was done and all magnets were seen by rotating by hand. It fired right up. No hasitation at all. Havent made any adjustments but all seems pretty damn good right out of the box. Get some more seat time shortly and dial it in.

All in all I am happy with it so far.

Finally got all my pics of the winter work. Here is my SDS setup.
sensors, all electronics in wigman box

finally no more wires at the passengers feet.

really cleaned up the engine compartment.

get it out this weekend for some testing. See how it does under load

Not a formula toy, but all Toyota aside from Front 60.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gallery/files/4/6/2/2/buggy3.JPG

Every Formula Toy should have a symbol from GreatLakes waterjet service though. :)

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gallery/files/4/6/2/2/grill.JPG

With the last post being from almost 3 yrs ago.... How's everyone liking these setups? Anyone deal with drastic altitude differences where they run, say 3-4k feet within a few hours.

Just did a rebuild of the buggy this winter and rerouted a few things got rid of my waterproof box. Going to fire in a week or so. Hopefully everything is still working.

I have not had one problem with the system at all though. Still havent played with adjustments either aside from Rev limiter. It just works.

No altitude over here.

Mine runs the same as it did when I put it on. I haven't had to mess with it at all.