This is the only weld I am really concerned about for my rear one-link set up. It is 2x2x.25" square with a ballistic fab square weld in bung. Did a good deep bevel of the tube then did a root pass and a weave pass.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v724/Chrisbuilt/bungweld001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v724/Chrisbuilt/bungweld002.jpg

ugly, weak, pure case of PITIFUL:flipoff2:

definately wont take much to break that. :D

It'll hold.

I am having a problem with threading it back together though. I think the heat messed the threads up a bit. I hope there is a local machine shop with a 1.25" fine tap.

I am new to welding so this is a question.... don't welders usually insert threaded end in the nut when welding to keep from messing up the threads?

BTW, the beads may not be perfect (mine never are), but I think it will hold and that is the important thing. How did you weld it? MIG?

I am new to welding so this is a question.... don't welders usually insert threaded end in the nut when welding to keep from messing up the threads?

I read up a bit and every person mentioned getting the rod end stuck in the threads permanently and having to start over with all new stuff. I thought about it and it will be cheaper to get the threads chased.

welding weapon of choice (or lack of choice)
flux-core
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v724/Chrisbuilt/frame006.jpg

I think threads will be locked until you let all the metal cool down..... like I said, I am new to welding so I could just be full of shit. TIG welding doesn't produce as much heat as MIG or Flux core.... Not that I know anything about TIG because I know zip.

I let it cool to 15° F (COLD) and still a no go. I then heated it up in an oven to 500 and could thread it but didn't want it to cool down and lock together.

You shrunk the hole, tap it...

I Benn welding all my life & one thing I know is that you can find fault i n any weld ever made by any ONE!! Thing is most welders are egotistical jerks !!! :flipoff2:any way your bead Quality is fine. :smokin:If you did a good v job on the tube that will help a lot. By the looks I probably would run one cover pass around the whole thing. One thing tho you should be OK but personally I would never weld something I really wanted to hold with a 110 wire feed :eek:,you just don't get the heat to really penetrate any thing bigger than .125. Not to mention the inherent slaqe inclusion. Tig or stick W/a low hydrogen type rod (7018) will always be stronger.As for your threads ya you shrunk it the only way to fix it is to re tap it.heating and cooling is just a waste of time. Re-taping wot affect the strength at all. Any real machine shop should be able to help but, its ashame to have to pay for such a simple fix :( Next time try putting the bolt in with some (allot) never-seize on it/ anti-spatter on any exposed threads. A good auto parts store should have never-seize,you can get anti-spatter at a welding supply I think Ive seen it at HomeDeopt too. a cheep alternative to anti-spatter is a cheep spray cooking oil like Pam (it actually works) Hope this helps :confused:

This is why I went to threaded links, Most of the time they never thread in well.
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