I know most Pirates hate ABS, and I'm ready to join you. But I can't, because my Defender won't be road legal or pass inspections without it.

My ABS and TC has a life of its own. Sometimes the TC will pull hard on one front wheel, sometimes the ABS will freak out and not wanting to brake and most of the time the lights will go on and the system will disable itself. This has been going on for quite some time (years) on and off, but has now gotten worse to the point that the truck in not drivable nor street legal.

I have long thought that it was related to wear and play in various front end components, and still think it may be. In the past it went away when I changed badly worn wheel bearings and on another occasion the front radius arm bushings.

Testbook says that the front sensors have electrical error/weak signal/intermittent signal.

I have tested with front sensors and ABS ECU from a Defender 90 known to be working - no real difference.

We figured the harness may be chafing somewhere and intermittently grounding, so we replaced the cabling from the front sensors to the ABS ECU plug - no real difference. The new cabling is working, tested both for connection and resistance with sensors attached.

Sensors showed 864 and 875 Ohms respectively at about 0 C, which is in line with the spec of 870 Ohms or more at ambient temp (resistance rises with temp).

The battery is fine.

We found and fixed some corroded terminals close to the main fuses under the pass seat - no difference.

Mechanically i have replaced the holey bushes in the front radius arms with new rubber ones, replaced wheel bearings, tried without wheel spacers and moved the reluctor rings 2 mm inwards to better match the holes for the sensors.

I have Ashcroft super bling CVs in the AEU2522 size with Maxi Drive reluctor rings turned to fit the marginally larger OD of the Ashcroft CVs. I checked the position of the rings visually thru the sensor hole today while spinning the wheels - looks fine to me. As stated above, I have moved them marginally inboard to better match the sensor position - no difference.

It seems to either be a pretty advanced electrical problem, or a mechanical one that makes the CV's wobble, creating a variable gap between the sensors and reluctor rings.

My buddy the mechanic is talking about measuring the entire harness involved with the ABS.

I'm thinking that the extra heavy CV's, badly worn heims in my Bilstein 7100 shock creating wibrations, worn king pin bearings (no detectable play, but no preload either and down to no shims), and the lack of seals in the axle tubes not stabilizing the axle shafts compounds to wobbling CV's. The fact that the bronze bushings in the spindles that were changed when the new CV's were installed not many miles ago are already showing some wear may support this theory. This line of thinking says I should replace the shock heims and king pin bearing and reinstall axle tube seals to stabilize the shafts.

Soo, since the thread with the soaked engine came to an abrupt end, I am hoping for some love in this thread.

What are we missing?

Where should we go from here?

My buddy is a factory trained LR tech gone independent, and I have access to his shop where I can use testbook. But we seem to have exhausted the simple theories.

Anyone out there that has seen this before?

Individual sensors can be "read" by using a graphing voltmeter at the sensor. While turning the wheel, perhaps you could induce misalignment to either rule out this issue or prove this is the cause.

The cables right where they exit the sensor are also very frail and cause many problems with intermittent conenctions.

I'm sure Pendy will have some one in a bazillion obscure problem to share with us!

Individual sensors can be "read" by using a graphing voltmeter at the sensor. While turning the wheel, perhaps you could induce misalignment to either rule out this issue or prove this is the cause.

The cables right where they exit the sensor are also very frail and cause many problems with intermittent conenctions.

I'm sure Pendy will have some one in a bazillion obscure problem to share with us!

Well, we tried known-to-be-working sensors, and no change. Hence bad wires are unlikely. I haven't seen a graphic voltmeter in the shop, or I would try that anyway.

If it is misalignment, as in worn heims and bearings, the vehicle would need to be driven to see anything?

We tried to drive with Testbook rigged, but it will not work with a running vehicle, otherwise we could have read stuff in real time.

Maybe I should try driving with the sensors pulled out a cm or two to see how that changes fault codes?

If this isn't the bazillionth problem, it sure isn't ABS 101 either.

One more observation - there is a relay clicking away under the pass seat when the ligthshow on the dash starts.

Yes the graphing multimeter. Which I had to beat over PT's head for years to start using. I use an older Vantage.

You need to leave one hooked up and monitor what it does when the problems or codes occur. I have seen testers that are set up to graph ABS signals only if you do not want to own this type meter. I'll search for one later.

To catch that "one in a million" bleep. And then try to replicate it to find the problem. But I defer to sinister. He's the man on top today. Lets see what he thinks.

Yes the graphing multimeter. Which I had to beat over PT's head for years to start using. I use an older Vantage.

You need to leave one hooked up and monitor what it does when the problems or codes occur. I have seen testers that are set up to graph ABS signals only if you do not want to own this type meter. I'll search for one later.

To catch that "one in a million" bleep. And then try to replicate it to find the problem. But I defer to sinister. He's the man on top today. Lets see what he thinks.

OK, so we want to do this essentially to see if the CVs are moving around so excessively that the sensors give bad signals?

Do let me know what that ABS graphing thingy is called and where to get one.
Fortunately, things are so bad right now that any bad signal will be evident from the start.

Anything else to look for while I try to source that thing? Any chance the real issue is upstream in the ABS to ECU communication? Testbook hints at this and also talks about looking for issues in the hub area.

OK, let's look at what we have here.

Starting at the ECU, we have a fairly robust connector and a fairly robust cable running to each fenderwell. At the fenderwell, we have a good connector leading to a non-stress relieved connection at the sensor. The sensor is mounted to the end of the axle, the axle moves, hence the greatest chance for a mechanical issue causing problems with the sensors is right at the sensor. A guy on Discoweb tore one apart and reqired it using much more robust wire and a strain-relief.

However, you have indicated that is unlikely the issue as you've tried multiple sensors and had the same problem.

A graphing voltmeter is essentially a low-spec oscilloscope that allows one to observe voltage changes over time-graphically displayed.

If one hooks their nifty graphing voltmeter to a sensor and rotates the wheel, the "Signature" of the sensor can be observed under somewhat controllable circumstances, versus while driving. If you hook up the meter and turn the wheel, while trying to manipulate the wheel, you might be able to find a condition under which you get a less than suitable response from the sensor. (Just for Pendy-I have real-world experience using this method to try to find a similar issue!)

Well, I wouldn't mind a graphing multimeter, but the high end place I looked at that have a couple hundred multimeters on their site knows how to charge. The ones I looked at seem to cost in excess of $ 1000 plus 25 % tax. Still haven't found a graphing in there, though.

I don't want to sound defensive, but I doubt that spinning wheels on jackstands will yield anything. If the problem is indeed at the hubs, I think it is dynamic. A CV - axle combo is what, 10 - 15 kg, and is only supported at the ends? We would need to drive while measuring to catch any movement here.

Aargh, just figured out that the cheapest Fluke ScopeMeter 120 is 2000 US plus tax. What do you mean lo end scope?

That special ABS reader is starting to look really attractive...

The graphing voltmeters have sampling rates far slower than the lowest end oscilloscope. Pendy and I both have Vantage meters made by Snap-on. Mine was $1400 used, I don't know what they cost new, but they are absolutely worth it (when Pendy reminds me that I have one :flipoff2:)

Don't worry about being defensive, I didn't take it that way. You might just be surprised at what you can find by rotating a wheel on the jackstands! Think about it, if it happens on the jackstands, you can easily resolve it!

Christer:
Pendy found you a picture of the meter we are talking about. This one is available stupidly cheap on eBay.

Cheers,
PT

Its on Craigslist not ebay! His memory fails him.

Its on Craigslist not ebay! His memory fails him.

Craigslit, eBay... I noticed it when I went back to post the pic.
Either way, it's a long ways from Sweden:flipoff2:

Craigslit, eBay... I noticed it when I went back to post the pic.
Either way, it's a long ways from Sweden:flipoff2:

It is a long way indeed, and shipping, duty and customs processing will make it significantly more expensive when it arrives here. If it does...

I have just found out that I can get a new bench multimeter, portable with battery and more importantly a PC interface and loads of software for a hair above $ 150, which I may get instead.

No-one has suggested the problem is upstream in the computers, so I'm back in the hub area with confidence. New axle seals ordered, and I already have a kit with new king pin bearings and associated stuff waiting. This will all go in on Saturday if I have it my way. The bearings need to be replaced anyway, and the seals are $ 10 for the pair, so I only stand to lose some time. The wobbling CV theory is supported by the fact that I get more error codes on the left side where the axle shaft is longer and heavier, thus more potential for wobble.

Keep your fingers crossed, I have a new isspection time booked for Jan 28.

You can have it sent to me. I will send it to you USPS as a gift. And I'll check it over to see it works. If that helps. But I would expect you could have something similar available there locally. Something with a laptop interface would be good.

You can have it sent to me. I will send it to you USPS as a gift. And I'll check it over to see it works. If that helps. But I would expect you could have something similar available there locally. Something with a laptop interface would be good.


Thank's, I may pick you up at that. But I think I will start in the wrong end by throwing some parts on the problem. Because of time constraints and because of who I am. :flipoff2:

With the possible exception of the $ 10 seals, this needs to be done anyway.

I have an outlet for the store with the hook-up-to-the-PC thingie just blocks away, so I may take a look at that tomorrow as well. I like what appears to be a very simple user interface of the Vantage, though.

You have never said what wheel the fault is on.If it is showing intermittent signal or signal missing at left front the problem is most likely the control module.They are starting a core program for them and I have replaced a grip of them.Good luck.

Throw a computer at it. Paging brute force!

Good to know Sterlng.

Throw a computer at it. Paging brute force!

Good to know Sterlng.Since the guy said he already put a known good sensor in it with no change and did not want to spend 1200 bucks on a lab scope and was going to throw parts at it and the control module only costs 400 bucks seems like a good place to start.I have done complete diagnostics on all aspects of the abs system.It is highly unlikely that the wiring is bad. And like I stated IF the fault is on the left front and you know the sensor and wiring is ok the problem is the control module:flipoff2:

Sounds like you are going to be correct. I think he said at some point it was left front. <beer> <dribble>

Good to know Sterlng.:grinpimp:

You have never said what wheel the fault is on.If it is showing intermittent signal or signal missing at left front the problem is most likely the control module.They are starting a core program for them and I have replaced a grip of them.Good luck.

It's all in the first post. Front wheels, so both sensors.
And I have tried with a known good ABS ECU.

I get slightly more codes from the left, but both sensors will throw codes even with the shortest test drive.

FWIW, one of the possible causes Testbook suggests is wheelbearing/hub. It doesnt know about larger CV's, replacing the needle bearing with a bronze bushing, and removing the axle seal, but that would be close, I think.

I have a Wabco ECU in a 2001 Defender. Would that be within the production run where you replace ECU's? And what error codes do you see?

I appreciate all help, but this is not ABS 101.

I thought he'd said he'd tried a known good ECU:D.

My experience has been that one can spend an awful lot of time chasing their tail on ABS problems and it is very rarely the ECU. That said, I haven't encountered a situation with aftermarket CV joints, etc.

If the wheel bearings are bad enough, it might be the problem although, I've seen trucks with really, really bad bearings NOT have ABS problems.

As AFI would say, look to the mechanical parts of the circuit before you suspect the electronic parts. In this case, we have mechanical components inside the swivel and the mechanical connection of the wires to the sensor proper.

The meters with PC interface can be handy. AFI has one that he has used extensively with the only problem being battery life if one is tracking changes over longer periods of time.

I would install the seals in the axle tube and then try some OEM CV's. If the problem continues then you probably have a problem with abs system. If not, discard the Ashcroft CV's

Alright then lets look at it a different way.

My experience is that the ECU is just comparing signals. So if the new signals provided at the front with the aftermarket CV's is different from the stock rear. Consider changing the reluctor wheel in the rear axle to match the front signal. The Vantage to watch the signals in motion would help identify this. It is dual channel. I also have a couple switches I use with my Vantage so I can move around up to 8 different signals while on a test drive. So with a switch you could effectively monitor all four signals enough to compare their signals.

Of course what I propose will not help if the signal has glitches from mechanical problems/interference.

I remembered the left front code but did not remember a ECU substitution.

OK after actually reading the post again your only option for diagnosing the problem is a graphing multi meter so you can watch the wave form.I know this has already been said.Sounds like an air gap problem.measure gap between stock set up and your set up see what the diff is if any.I doubt the cvs are wobbling or out of round as you would feel the vibration while driving.

Also Mac tools makes a graphing multi meter.Not as user friendly but a good meter just no user menus.They sell for 900 dollars new so used one is probably cheaper.

most of the mac tools, snap-on...etc. graphing meters are limited in their capabilities. when you're spending that much, i would look towards a company that just makes meters and test equipment. they usually have much more usefullness. i know the meters that snap-on has are made by other companies, but the ones i have seen are somewhat stripped down versions.

If a Mac or Snap On tool costs $1000 in the US the same tools cost at least $2000 in Europe.

My experience is that the ECU is just comparing signals. So if the new signals provided at the front with the aftermarket CV's is different from the stock rear. Consider changing the reluctor wheel in the rear axle to match the front signal

These are Maxi Drive reluctor rings which I have used (not these but similar parts) on the very similar AEU2522's for tens of thousands of kilometers. With intermittents issues, granted, but the toth count and signals the rings generate were obviously good enough for the ABS ECU to boot.

Also, the rears are not rings, they are disks with radial grooves. What matters is that front and rear have the same tooth count, and I don't think Mal Story screwed up on that.

I doubt the cvs are wobbling or out of round as you would feel the vibration while driving.

Who said there is no vibration in a Defender? New axle seals helped, but the pulling TC issue remains.

I would install the seals in the axle tube and then try some OEM CV's. If the problem continues then you probably have a problem with abs system. If not, discard the Ashcroft CV's

Did install the seals and it helped. The Ashcrofts are staying, thank you very much. The rings are Maxi Drive, anyway, and they have been okayish in the past on AEU 2522's.

I think I got lost in all the combinations of cables and CD versions yesterday. O could read the codes but the system claimed memory mapping issues when I tried to clear them. So no fresh codes from after the seal install.

But here is what I think is going on:
There was likely a wobble issue and it was remedied by the seals. The ABS light didn't come one until I had driven with the TC pulling for a while.

The TC pulls to the left when I accellerate. Over several years, I have had a mysterious faint flicker fo the TC lamp when accelerating or going uphill. My theory is that this is a bad cable that has gone worse recently.

Soo, it seems that I have had two issues interacting, and one of them is solved now. I will talk to my buddy about proper operation of TestBook and hopefully get some real data before I try swapping sensors again. The effect of previously replacing a presumbably bad sensor was masked by the wobbing issue.

I have also found the real time test screen in TestBook where you can se the voltage and detected speed from the sensors. I will try that before buying any instruments. Doesn't work while driving, though.

I have never liked the conversion bush many use to put a AEU 2522 in a later spindle when they remove the little roller bearings. Have you considered boring out the spindle to accept the original bush used for the AEU 2522? I also wonder if you could use the female threaded hole in the end of the CV joint to somehow preload the CV to the output flange. With a spring somehow. I have a feeling the new seal will have a short lifespan to help center the large CV enough for a good reading.

Just some thoughts.

If you tap into the wiring harness it would be easy to leave a good connection or switching point to take readings anytime a problem surfaces to check the signals. I have a feeling this may prove useful in the future.

I have never liked the conversion bush many use to put a AEU 2522 in a later spindle when they remove the little roller bearings. Have you considered boring out the spindle to accept the original bush used for the AEU 2522? I also wonder if you could use the female threaded hole in the end of the CV joint to somehow preload the CV to the output flange. With a spring somehow. I have a feeling the new seal will have a short lifespan to help center the large CV enough for a good reading.

Just some thoughts.

If you tap into the wiring harness it would be easy to leave a good connection or switching point to take readings anytime a problem surfaces to check the signals. I have a feeling this may prove useful in the future.

I use a bolt and a set of washers to pull the CV all the way out and then put shims behind the lock ring to keep it in place. Not preloaded, but pretty tight.

Another road would be to get a seal with a slightly smaller ID for more positive positioning.

I have connectors on all four front sensor leads close to the ABS ECU. I considered soldering for a more permanent solution, but I may leave it as is for future diagnostics.

I have not personally seen the old style bush, what makes it better than the thin conversion bush? I'm reluctant to bore out the spindles of the truck I once hope to drive to Morocco and back. I am slowly learning what negative impact all those mods can have on a street driven rig...

Forgot to mention that I may be stronger than I thought. :flipoff2: I previously stated no dedectable preoload in the svivels.

When I finally got aroung to bringing a fish scale, preload in the svivels were actually 5X the specified number. I left them that way since they see a lot of stress with wheel spacers and 9.00X16 tires. I figure even with some flex I still have preload.

Also, the right hand side lower shock heim is actually OK, it's the left one that clatters. About 1 mm play. Hmm...

I can send you a picture of one of the correct bushes. And a picture of the correct spindle bored for the correct bush. It may be that your spindle can be bored without ill effect. I remember talking to Keith at Rovertraks about this once. Before his Longtracks success. I also think the solid style of you mounting the CV against the flange may not be a good idea. It needs to flex slightly away from the hub. The term oscillating comes to mind. But I imagine it needs to be able to self center a little better then a bushing may allow. That is why I wonder about a heavy spring pulling against the CV to the flange. Like a shortened valve spring.


Let me know if I need to take pics.

Yes please, pics would be highly appreciated.

The shimming is per factory practice. I think the spec is less than 0.1 mm play. The shims are actually OE parts. What would the ill effect be? The drive flange is MDE though. It started as press fit, but has gone a little smother will all this business. The spindle still has the fat bronze thingy protecting the thin bushing from axial loads.

OK, the saga goes on ... with some science and some brute force.

I cleared the codes and took a test drive. I can drive a little longer before the system shuts down, but TC is still a circus. This time the codes came mainly from the right side.

Now to the fun part. I lifted the front end and spun the wheels by hand with TestBook attached and the real time monitor on. I get a reasonable signal, but but the left side seems to skip part of the revolution. I know, a graphing mulitmeter is better. But I don't have one, I have TestBook, OK? On the right side, I get a pretty consistent signal, but also a grinding noice. The sensor is contacting the ring for several teeth every revolution at the same spot. Verified by feeling the slight vibrations in the sensor with fingertips, and the grinding went away when I pulled out the sensor a mm or so.

Soo, even without the dynamics of high revs, greater mass in the CVs and wheels hitting potholes, the CVs are throwing! It could be that the CVs have bent ever so slightly from the heat treatment, it could be the rings that don't have an even thickness after the turning, or it could maybe be the drive flanges that don't center perfectly on the hubs.

I consider pulling the CVs and putting them in a lathe to se what's going on, and maybe trimming them over the rings for roundness and concentricity (is that a word?). Or are the slim bushes the culprit, after all?

Paging Pendy, the bush photog.

Did you get photos? I sent em' I like the lathe idea.
If you have some movement between the flange and CV (you said 1mm at least) then I am less concerned. I though you had said that you adjusted it tight with no freeplay allowed.
Here is another way to look at it. Why not use the correct spindle and hub for the AEU 2522. I'm sure you could use the vented rotor still as I have done this before instead of using the expensive conversion flange from Maxi-drive.

Did you get photos? I sent em' I like the lathe idea.
If you have some movement between the flange and CV (you said 1mm at least) then I am less concerned. I though you had said that you adjusted it tight with no freeplay allowed.
Here is another way to look at it. Why not use the correct spindle and hub for the AEU 2522. I'm sure you could use the vented rotor still as I have done this before instead of using the expensive conversion flange from Maxi-drive.

Got photos, thank's a lot.

Not really any movement between flange and CV, maybe 0.1 mm with clinically clean parts, and really no play with some rust and silicone residue. 1 mm is my guess for the play in the shock heim, inducing some nasty vibrations in he axle.

Why do I want play? The current (stock) external bushing that takes any axial load is big and fat and has some sort of oil grooves in it, so I'm not worried about it running dry from lack of play.

Will the old style spindle not work with a modern hub? And help me understand why the old style bushings are better? The MDE flanges were expensive, but it is sunk cost and they are made from much better material than LR parts, so not to eager to junk them. Much tighter fit than LR parts, too, and I do like the screw on caps.

I think I'll call Ashcroft and hear what they have to say. I'm not suggesting the CV is the culprit, but they may have heard of this before.

Edit:
Just talked to the Tech who helped me turn the exciter rings. He agreed we will put them in his lathe to try to figure out what is going on. A skiing trip is coming up, though, so there will be no progress for a couple of weeks.

No can't use the newer hub with the older spindle. You can get a flange from Maxidrive for the older hub though. I need a set for a customer as well. Share what Ashcroft says. I'm interested in this.
Let me know on the local meter-if you want it. Or just have your sister call me. Thought I forgot did you?

Have fun skiing! Hmmm snow bunnies----------

No can't use the newer hub with the older spindle. You can get a flange from Maxidrive for the older hub though. I need a set for a customer as well. Share what Ashcroft says. I'm interested in this.
Let me know on the local meter-if you want it. Or just have your sister call me. Thought I forgot did you?

Have fun skiing! Hmmm snow bunnies----------

Thanks, throwing MDE parts on it is just what I needed, as if OE parts were not bad enough! :flipoff2:

On the meter, If you are willing to get it for me, I will certainly refund you, and treasure the instrument, though I may not need it to identify this particular problem. Hell, I may even put a word for you with my sis. You thought I forgot? :flipoff2:

I will share any relevant information from Ashcroft.

You still haven't told med what is wrong with the slim bushes? Bear in mind that they do not carry any axial load, that is taken care of by the original fat
external bushes that presumably was put in place to protect the needle bearings.

Every time I have one of those conversions apart there is something wrong with that small bushing it seems. Can't fight the idea of the mass of the original correct type. I'll help you round up parts if you want. And I'll try to pick up the meter this weekend for you. Maybe I could deliver parts for cost of a plane ticket if you have sis meet me at the airport:D

I'm due a midlife crisis soon! Think Sweden can handle that?

I still think your spindle could be cut for the larger bushing.

Just off the phone with Dave Ashcroft. He is as puzzled as I am. There are a few that have added exciter rings to the big bad CVs (one in Holland Dave mentioned, one i Aus that I have seen here) but the volume is with the slightly smaller CVs that they now offer with ABS grooves cut into them.

We'll see what the lathe turns up (he, he) but not for a couple of weeks. Based on that I will decide what to do with the spindles etc.

No one in my immediate family will help you with your crisis. You are more than welcome here though, but like most Americans you need to work on not trying too hard. Working on your celebrity status helps, too. I understand Bode Miller was pleased with the social life in our skiing village, as are the big air hot shots competing there...

I still think your spindle could be cut for the larger bushing.

Possibly, but why not source a needle bearing if there is enough beef to machine?

Possibly, but why not source a needle bearing if there is enough beef to machine?

Yes, why not. A lot less material to cut if you find a needle bearing. My initial searches for one came up empty. But you may be more motivated.

Of course no one in you immediate family. Try to remember I'm all talk when it comes to your sis and any midlife crisis I might like to start up. And I always try to hard its the 'aMerican way.

But I would strap on my banana hammock for a hot tub full of swedish babes. What man could resist?


To bad Dave did not have more input.

Don't worry, we all know you're bigger on the Internet. That midlife thing might be for real, though.

SKF has a wide selection of needle bearings. I don't have CV's here to measure on, though. Needles come in diameters down to 3.5 mm, so it might work. The thin bush is in the ballpark of 2 mm.

I take a break from this now and will devote next week to skiing and fun in the snow with the TT:ed P38 on studded Hakkas.

I'll try to have some measurements on this thread when you get back them. If that will help. Midlife is better then the Eve I guess.

You got any snow over there this year. Seems our continent has so much I wonder if there is any left for the rest of the world. Unless that Ice Age is creeping in.

C' ah'

I'll try to have some measurements on this thread when you get back them. If that will help. Midlife is better then the Eve I guess.

You got any snow over there this year. Seems our continent has so much I wonder if there is any left for the rest of the world. Unless that Ice Age is creeping in.

C' ah'

Stockholm has no snow but there is more than usual in the mountains, though not the bitter cold of last season. Just like I want it. Is this off topic? :flipoff2:

OK, finally som tech after skiing, recovering from bruised ribs and then some work.

We put one of the CVs in a lathe today. It was so visibly warped that we thought we didn't get it right in the spindle. After rotating it 120 degrees in the spindle twice and getting the high spot at exactly the same place every time, we concludet it was warped after all. The dial shows a 1.3 mm difference between min and max measured at the bell. This explains both the premature death of the bronze bushings and the ABS ring grinding on the sensor once per rev.

We didn't bother to measure the other CV, but as I recall it, this was the good one regarding ABS issues.

I haven't had the opportunity to speak to Dave Ashcroft after finding out the fact, but I have every hope that this will be resolved amicably. Even without ABS, this is too much. I think have one wheeling trip on the truck after installing CV's and new bushings, max 500 km. And the bushings are gone already.

So maybe you need the spring loaded ABS sensor!

Bruised ribs--so may options there

So maybe you need the spring loaded ABS sensor!

Bruised ribs--so may options there

Fell in a steep part, dindn't stop sliding for a while and got a little airborne in the moguls. Painful.

I'd much prefer straight CV's.

Dave measured a few from his stock and it appears that most, if not all, are a little banana shaped in the stub axle, but none as bad as my CV's.

I'm sending my CV's back and will get a new set that hopefully are straight enough.

In all fairness, I replaced the bushings when I installed the new CV's because one of the old bushings were fairly worn, so it appears genuine AEU 2522's can have similar defects, probably due to heat treatment.

So no big drama, just took a while to figure this out.

I guess the conclusion is that a quality check of CV's in a lathe is recommended prior to installation if running the thin bushings, regardless of manufacturer of the CV's.