I just got off the phone with Kent from Moser Engineering and he tells me that they make an alloy 35 spline D60 front axle inner or outer, in the Ford or Chevy configuration.

It's made out of the same material as their race axles and does not have any taper the full length. They want $395 for the outers a pair and the same for the inners a pair.

It looks like us Ford D60 knuckles now have a convinent route to get to a full 35 spline set up. :)

WHAT?!?
Three ninety freaking five?
that's obscene!
what does Warn want for 35 spline blanks?

Originally posted by Sundowner
WHAT?!?
Three ninety freaking five?
that's obscene!
what does Warn want for 35 spline blanks?

set down and step away from the crack pipe.

Originally posted by Sundowner
WHAT?!?
Three ninety freaking five?
that's obscene!
what does Warn want for 35 spline blanks?

OK, they're Alloy shafts dude doesn't seem *that* bad to me

but go ahead and buy your ctms and alloy shafts for your 44 instead.

My friend just bought the warn drive flanges last week 200 dolla

You aren't going to break them. Think of it as a good investment. Until my money tree buds this fall I'll have to stick with my 30 spliners (got some spares too :D)

that's awsome
this is what I need to get rid of my necked down inner dodge shafts.
I think Alloy inner shafts would with stock 35 spline outers would get the weak link back to the u-joint where it belongs.

Though I prefer my weak link to be traction and gravity.:D

Originally posted by fcfred

this is what I need to get rid of my necked down inner dodge shafts

How about this instead:

http://www.gohumvee.com/images/Tech/60axleup/Images/3.jpg

660182-1 long side, 1.7" necks down to 1.5 at the 35 spline end
660182-3 short side , 1.7" necks down to 1.5 at the 35 spline end
3-82-871 - 1.5" 35 spline stub
SPL55-3x (non) or 4x (greasable)

For Dodge Dana 60.

Last time i checked, about $100 each from Spicer for the short side inner and outer and about $90 for the stubs. $30 or so for the u-joint

I've never broken any one of these part numbers (yet), even at TTC, w/44 boggers and 560 lb/ft torque through a TH400, 5.86's with a 203 and a 205.

They seem to be a pretty stout combo, available anywhere and relatively inexpensive.

Tim.

I guess my questions is with my current set-up
new 35 stubbys
new forged style u-joints
and old used necked down inner shafts
who has experience with this set-up and who has actually broken the inner shafts first?

(how long can I wait)
btw this is all attached to an arb and 38's

Originally posted by fcfred
I guess my questions is with my current set-up
new 35 stubbys
new forged style u-joints
and old used necked down inner shafts
who has experience with this set-up and who has actually broken the inner shafts first?

(how long can I wait)
btw this is all attached to an arb and 38's

8 years ago when I built my first 60 f I used the stock tapered down inner until I could shorten and respline a long "big style" for the inner. I was using the 35 spline outers with the "cast"style joints..The inner broke where it tapered down..When you can get some coins go ahead and get the big style to replace it.. Remeber the taper down part is effectively the same as a dana 44 ...You won't break it immediately, but, it certainly would not be unimaginable for it to break.I saw one break on a old style "small style" bronco that was running 36 inch tires.Good Luck

"Front 35 Spline Alloy Dana Axles"


I really, really hope that this is NOT A RUMOR… :D

thanks one ton that's what I thought

Cool, thanks for the info krcruiser.
I thought I would have to get the conversion kit from Differential Engineering to get my Ford 60 to 35 spline outers.
I'll be taking this route instead.
Do you know if the inners are available in custom length?
Being from Moser, I'm guessing they are.

thanks for the part numbers Wolf.
I seem to be copying a lot of part numbers from your occasional dana posts.
you have several 'word' documents in my HDD now

Wolf,

You happen to have the lengths on those part numbers handy?

Originally posted by WOLF359


How about this instead:

660182-1 long side, 1.7" necks down to 1.5 at the 35 spline end
660182-3 short side , 1.7" necks down to 1.5 at the 35 spline end
3-82-871 - 1.5" 35 spline stub
SPL55-3x (non) or 4x (greasable)

For Dodge Dana 60.

Last time i checked, about $100 each from Spicer for the short side inner and outer and about $90 for the stubs. $30 or so for the u-joint

I've never broken any one of these part numbers (yet), even at TTC, w/44 boggers and 560 lb/ft torque through a TH400, 5.86's with a 203 and a 205.

They seem to be a pretty stout combo, available anywhere and relatively inexpensive.

Tim.

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but at least I searched! :flipoff2:

Wolf, my Dana books don't list those numbers. They must be either really old or really new. Do you happen to know if I could use those same numbers for my Chevy d60 front? Also, the stubs don't neck down, do they?

J. J.

IIRC, Chevys use the same stubs, joints, and one of the inners. The other inner is 2" longer on a Chevy. I've got the pn's at home, I'll look for them tonight.

Pete

The same inner dimmensions as Wolf listed above? I wait in anticipation!

J. J.

The PN's I posted above are for a Dodge Dana 60. Chevy are different on the inners but they share the same outer stub. Chevy's are shorter on the long side and longer on the short side :) Get it?

As for the stubs, the Spicer PN#3-82-871 are the same for both Dodge and Chevy, and it does not neck down.

I only have the Dodge Part Numbers.

Looking at these, I noticed I futzed up the part numbers labels

Note:

The long side inner is: 660182-2
The Short Side inner is:660182-1

I labeled them in the picture both as 660182-2

http://www.gohumvee.com/images/Tech/60axleup/Images/0.jpg

http://www.gohumvee.com/images/Tech/60axleup/Images/1.jpg

http://www.gohumvee.com/images/Tech/60axleup/Images/5.jpg

http://www.gohumvee.com/images/misc/70stubs/IMG_0031.JPG

OK. I actually did have those part numbers in my Dana books. They list right next to the Chevy part numbers, actually. Here is, in theory, what one should order for a bog Chevy inner:

Short side: 660182-5
Long Side: 660182-6

I wish the damned catalog had thicknesses and necks listed, but it doesn't. So can anyone confirm that these are correct? If so, it's the same inner shaft that Chevy used from 1978 on. I wish I could remember if mine necked down or not, but it's been so long since I've had them out. I'm going to check next weekend when I go home to put my 44's on.

J. J.

Oh, and just in case anyone cares:

660182-1: 15.97"
660182-2: 35.20"
660182-3: 21.16"
660182-4: 44.53"
660182-5: 17.67"
660182-6: 35.07"

J. J.

PS: Wolf: In your pics above, the 35-spline outer DOES appear to neck down ...

Originally posted by patooyee
OK. I actually did have those part numbers in my Dana books. They list right next to the Chevy part numbers, actually. Here is, in theory, what one should order for a bog Chevy inner:

Short side: 660182-5
Long Side: 660182-6


Yes, those are the same pn's I bought for my Chevy. The part numbers are the same for the whole run ('77-'91), but around '81, they changed to the bigger shafts. (They were gradually phased in over a few years, depending on what was laying around.)

Just for the sake of confirmation, the stubs are pn 3 82 871.

And since you're converting, I think I saw somewhere that Milemarker(?) was making hubs for this application now (If you don't like Warns).

As for chancing the smaller inners, at least if they do break, they're not too likely to take anything else with them (as opposed to my 30 spline stub that took out the spindle, bearings, nuts, and hub dial).

Pete

Well, I may not have to convert now. I wish i remembered, but I thought my shafts tapered down in the middle last I checked, but my axle is a 1983 Dually. I can't be sure about the taper though. I guess I'll find out in about a week.

J. J.

Hey Wolf359....where do you get your shafts from. I want the Phone #...all the shops around here I could just kill them!!! :mad: I'm contemplating getting alloy inners for my other 60 front I'm building or getting these. How much did these "inners" run you? I already have 35 outters and the hubs/u-joints....just deciding on these.....Thanks-Tim

I ordered a few shafts with the p/n's wolf gave. They are NOT 1.7" They ARE 1.575" just as a standard non neckdown front 60 shaft is. I also got the 382871 stubs- they don't neckdown per say but the od of the shaft is the same diameter as the root of the splines (correct design) being, If I remember right 1.375" od. The od of the splines IS 1.5". I got all mine from randys ring and pinion.
660182-1 was $65
660182-2 was $50
and the stubs were $45 each
I don't know (think) that is standard pricing though.

Patooyee- 182-4 is that a typo? That seems like it would be a VERY wide front end even coupled with the shortest axle available (-1) What is the app if it is correct?

Aggro, I just went out and re-measured my spares, and they are 1.7" at the shaft for both of those PN's, no doubt.

The price you paid is awesome though. That's cheap.

Shaker, I'm in Calgary, Canada and get my stuff from Pat's Driveline. They're way more money up here. I'd buy them from where Aggro got them, those are awesome prices.

Patyooee.. there is a difference a bit at the spines, but it's not much, just enough to relieve the stress I would think. I'll pull my spare and try and get some measurements, but I think it's pretty close to 1.5 all the way through.

Tim.

If you go to Mosiers site they have a little info on the 60 axles but not all that much. Cool deal about the 35 spline Ford stubbs because anyone else who had them for sale was a ripoff not that $400 is a deal though.

660182-1 was $65
660182-2 was $50
and the stubs were $45 each
I don't know (think) that is standard pricing though.



Is there enough meat near the yoke on these to cut/ respline for a Ford 60? Im referring to the spindle bearing area...

@ $50ea + resplining, that would be much cheaper than $400 a pair

Originally posted by Aggro


Patooyee- 182-4 is that a typo? That seems like it would be a VERY wide front end even coupled with the shortest axle available (-1) What is the app if it is correct?

That's what I thought. I don't know the application, but that's what ti says in my Dana book.

J. J.

Well I guess im gonna order these and start saving for my alloy shafts....Thanks Guys.........

PS: Who has a good deal on 60 Detroits right now?

i have the alloy moser shafts for inner on my front 60, i am running stock 30 spline outers,, i blew up an outer this weekend at neurock,,and the clips blew off the u joint(not that it is a suprise i was not running full circle clips),, but when i went u put a new spicer joint in the it almost could be pushed in by hand,, i hard hammer the joints originally,, i ASSume that the yokes stretched,, has any one else had this problem??

my spare shaft seem to be almoast to small for my spicer joint. but it fit TIGHTLY! jiMMy

Originally posted by Shaker


PS: Who has a good deal on 60 Detroits right now?

Call Rocky from Essentially Off-Road (ROCKYJ on this board)
800-826-1623
Best price I could find anywhere so, I baught two. :D
Tell him I referred you. :)

If anyone still needs this stuff, I can get you a discount on the 35 spline outer kit. (35 spline outers, Warn hubs, needle bearings, and seal) for $329

PM me if that helps out anyone.

Thanks for all the good info in this thread, just found it when searching.

Phil

Originally posted by patooyee


Sorry to dig up an old thread, but at least I searched! :flipoff2:

Wolf, my Dana books don't list those numbers. They must be either really old or really new. Do you happen to know if I could use those same numbers for my Chevy d60 front? Also, the stubs don't neck down, do they?

J. J.


660182-1 Active Dana part#
660182-3 Obsolete part number
3-82-871 Active Dana part#


I'm told by a drive line parts person I trust (my wife) that the obsolete part may still be available under another dana PN (you would have search it out by dimension) or it may be a Dodge only part. (Or it could be that my parts books and the Dana site are not correct and it is still an active number availble at your local supplier.