Hi,
I just bought a 2001 tj and I am looking for a long arm kit for it. I am looking for a fairly easy one to install (bolt-in if there is one out there). If you have any recommendation let me know. The reason I am looking for a bolt-in one is because I dont have a garage that I can weld in (in the Air Force and they dont allow welding in there auto shops).
Thanks
Kris

Rock Krawler or RE Keep the springs on the lower end if you can. 3.4 on the RE 4.5 on the RK. enjoy

all long arm kit's will require some welding ... the short arms kits reuse factory locations ... so the long arm stuff has to me mounted in different from stock locations there for the cutting and welding ...

u get what u pay for .... imo :smokin:

a cheap kit is a cheap kit ...:flipoff2:

go re if money is avilble and u want ride quailty ... :grinpimp:

don't have much loot and don't care how it drives the rockcrawler kit will get it done

I have 2 sets of (new) TJ Teraflex long arms (fr& rr). I can e-mail pics...
I'm sure they require welding.
I'm selling @ hundreds off list price (list is $700 for 2 prs).

Full traction is a bolt on system. It is a great kit.

Full Traction 4" or 6" Long Arm Kits are bolt on. You have to grind and cut old brackets and drill a bunch of holes etc... but no welding required. I have also heard great things about this kit, no personal experience tho. Just my .02

If you buy an RE short arm 3.5 or 4.5, it can always be upgraded to the RE long arm later on with the purchase of their long arm upgrade package. The RE short arm is all bolt on and very complete minus a SYE and CV driveshaft.

The only welding on the RE long arm kits is for the sleeves in the frame where the bolts go through the sides. Since you never have to remove the sides -- you could probably leave the sleeves in there without welding. I've installed the RE kit and once you get the new skid plate / link mount bolted on, its a pretty easy install.

I say RE.

but be carefull, if they don't want you welding they are going to frown on all the sparks from cutting/grinding of old lower c arm mounts, you could sawzal them off and just dont grind

BTW. that casino fire in Vegas today was from welders I think, welding has caused countless fires in shops hours after they stop work

I have installed 2 RE kits now, and would say they go on smooth, and would highly reccommend them. The only welding as stated is 3 small sleeves on each side of the frame, but the directions say it is not mandatory. The ride is well above stock, and off-road is un-matched IMO.

the RE kit is amaizing... i have not installed any other kits but i did install my 8" LA kit. im 19 and it went on smooth. their is no required welding but of course depending on tire size and what not you might want to later... out of opinion i welded the track bar relocation up and gusseted plus the c-mounts... 37's is what i run and i have tore stuff off more then once. finnally i tri linked it and let me tell you its bolt on and i wish i would have done the RE tri-kit from the beg. Tri-kit in RE = no track bar.

The Full Traction Long Arm kit is also available with the tri-link to get rid of the pesky rear track bar. I vot Full Traction. :flipoff2:

The Full Traction Long Arm kit is a good kit (I have the tri-link) but their customer service is so poor it's not worth the effort. If I could do it over again I'd go with RE (they have a tri-link kit also).

i might be wrong but i think the tri-linked upper on the FT is not adjustable just the bottom.... i might be wrong but i saw one a bit ago and it wasnt. RE is how ever ;)

Thats a good point I hadn't even considered that. The Full Traction rear upper mount is not adjustable at all. I don't know that this would at all be an issue. A friend of mine has that kit and it works great, awsome ride on and off road.