Snoopy
04-18-2011, 09:12 AM
Just to re-iterate, the point about the missed completion date vs how long it's taken me to get anything done to it are related.
Like I said Tom, I'm not here to argue. Back when we first started disagreeing about the racer, the time, the money... I posted here that I'll write and assume that its my fault, and I'm not trying to pass the buck to anyone else. If the chasis was done, if the payments were made ~ who cares. All in the distant past and frankly, I don't see the need to regurgitate the details. I'm just happy to have been apart of it, and hope you're better off for my part than not.
Sadly, technology has caught up and passed us while it's sat rusting in my field, but this should still be a step up from before.
Indeed. Tech has gone forward, but luckily, not too far forward. With your skills in the seat, and with the backing of the community at large, I picture a bright future for you.
Both sides where the upper "L" comes down to meet the frame, at about the B body mount, are only half welded.
That's what I saw too.
Also, both stand-offs under the A pillar for the body mounts are only half welded.
http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery2/d/97310-1/IMG_8380.JPG
Okay, here is why I didn't connect those joints. Namely, the stock body mount doesn't stick out enough to give you good leg room. I was thinking a big plate, then a big plate and some angle to strengthen it, but honestly, if I were to do this again, I would cut out the stock body mount on the frame, sandwich the floor with a cage foot under it, then take TWO pieces of tube and run from the lower cage foot to the frame. Kinda like this:
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/frametie.jpg
I also now plan to weld the seam on the "frame sleeves" - I'm sure it would hold up just fine as is, but it looks like a bucket to catch crud inside of and rust the frame apart when I'm not looking.
I do not seam weld them on purpose ~ realizing what you said before hand. May I suggest simply sealing the un-welded parts of the stitch. The reason I say that is we all know how welds can be hot or cold. To cold, no penetration. To hot, and the penetration can be so deep, that the welder may not adequately fill causing weak areas.
The problem lies in the fact that the sleeve is 1/4" thick, while the frame is 1/8" at best. To get the heat right for both sizes is tricky, if you turn it up hot enough for the sleeve, then you may be too hot for the frame. So, to keep the frame's integrity, I set the welder for 3/16" thick and carefully watch for proper heat. In case I was too hot, I stitch so that there are areas of the frame that are full-thickness Considering how much linear welding that holds the suspension on, even your old race truck, I think we're safe to say that the sleeves are secure. If all your worried about is rust, simply seem-seal the sleeves.
Making the floors removable, means I can get to some of this stuff should metal fatigue set it in and tear something up.
Ya, I had no qualms cutting that chassis up. It was a rusty piece. I didn't touch the floors (at least from what I remember) so what you have there is the work of the chassis's previous owner.
I knew "some assembly required" though if Doug hadn't caught the missed welds, or banged up the floor when flipping it over, I probably would not have noticed the missed welds, so I'm glad he noticed and made a point of telling me (Doug has been around the block a few times, and while visiting when dropping off/picking up, found out he's raced the Parker 425 a few times "back in the day" and knows Parnelli Jones and others)
I'm glad he saw them too. I simply missed them in the rush for getting it ready for Rob's pickup at RMIHR 08. It was my bad completely.
Thanks, Damian.
I'm sure it's still a long ways off.
Honestly, I did the easy stuff. What you have to do is the hard stuff. At the end of the day, I'm just glad I was able to help.
In with the new.
http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery2/d/97206-2/IMG_8346.JPG
:bounce2::bounce::bounce2::bounce:
Like I said Tom, I'm not here to argue. Back when we first started disagreeing about the racer, the time, the money... I posted here that I'll write and assume that its my fault, and I'm not trying to pass the buck to anyone else. If the chasis was done, if the payments were made ~ who cares. All in the distant past and frankly, I don't see the need to regurgitate the details. I'm just happy to have been apart of it, and hope you're better off for my part than not.
Sadly, technology has caught up and passed us while it's sat rusting in my field, but this should still be a step up from before.
Indeed. Tech has gone forward, but luckily, not too far forward. With your skills in the seat, and with the backing of the community at large, I picture a bright future for you.
Both sides where the upper "L" comes down to meet the frame, at about the B body mount, are only half welded.
That's what I saw too.
Also, both stand-offs under the A pillar for the body mounts are only half welded.
http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery2/d/97310-1/IMG_8380.JPG
Okay, here is why I didn't connect those joints. Namely, the stock body mount doesn't stick out enough to give you good leg room. I was thinking a big plate, then a big plate and some angle to strengthen it, but honestly, if I were to do this again, I would cut out the stock body mount on the frame, sandwich the floor with a cage foot under it, then take TWO pieces of tube and run from the lower cage foot to the frame. Kinda like this:
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/frametie.jpg
I also now plan to weld the seam on the "frame sleeves" - I'm sure it would hold up just fine as is, but it looks like a bucket to catch crud inside of and rust the frame apart when I'm not looking.
I do not seam weld them on purpose ~ realizing what you said before hand. May I suggest simply sealing the un-welded parts of the stitch. The reason I say that is we all know how welds can be hot or cold. To cold, no penetration. To hot, and the penetration can be so deep, that the welder may not adequately fill causing weak areas.
The problem lies in the fact that the sleeve is 1/4" thick, while the frame is 1/8" at best. To get the heat right for both sizes is tricky, if you turn it up hot enough for the sleeve, then you may be too hot for the frame. So, to keep the frame's integrity, I set the welder for 3/16" thick and carefully watch for proper heat. In case I was too hot, I stitch so that there are areas of the frame that are full-thickness Considering how much linear welding that holds the suspension on, even your old race truck, I think we're safe to say that the sleeves are secure. If all your worried about is rust, simply seem-seal the sleeves.
Making the floors removable, means I can get to some of this stuff should metal fatigue set it in and tear something up.
Ya, I had no qualms cutting that chassis up. It was a rusty piece. I didn't touch the floors (at least from what I remember) so what you have there is the work of the chassis's previous owner.
I knew "some assembly required" though if Doug hadn't caught the missed welds, or banged up the floor when flipping it over, I probably would not have noticed the missed welds, so I'm glad he noticed and made a point of telling me (Doug has been around the block a few times, and while visiting when dropping off/picking up, found out he's raced the Parker 425 a few times "back in the day" and knows Parnelli Jones and others)
I'm glad he saw them too. I simply missed them in the rush for getting it ready for Rob's pickup at RMIHR 08. It was my bad completely.
Thanks, Damian.
I'm sure it's still a long ways off.
Honestly, I did the easy stuff. What you have to do is the hard stuff. At the end of the day, I'm just glad I was able to help.
In with the new.
http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery2/d/97206-2/IMG_8346.JPG
:bounce2::bounce::bounce2::bounce: