i dont:(
i'm stuck using my back/arms

You are welcome to use it when you need it, if you promise not to cut your self. :D

har dee har har har :flipoff2:

I took some time today to get things ready for pulling the t cases and transmission. I bet everyone has one of these , but here is mine.


I like that! Ive been thinking about how im going to put the trans back in my work truck.:smokin:

Upates!...You gonna use my hood idea or what? BTW, I may need your tube bending expertise in a couple months.

We are trying to take him to the dark side, if he works on Jeeps enough he might think hell I work on them might as buy one :D:D:D:D

We are trying to take him to the dark side, if he works on Jeeps enough he might think hell I work on them might as buy one :D:D:D:D

But wouldn't you rather see a jeep get finished?

Upates!...You gonna use my hood idea or what? BTW, I may need your tube bending expertise in a couple months.

I could be easily distracted, on the hood, today I got some paint on the frame. I pulled the motor,trans and t cases. Then front and rear axles and shot three cans of paint on it . Then I put the axles back under it. That was enough for today. I will get some POR 15 under the tub soon. So give me a call or pm me if you are serious bout a cage.

We are trying to take him to the dark side, if he works on Jeeps enough he might think hell I work on them might as buy one :D:D:D:D

You know that mangler has a nicely built rig. That said , not much is left that is J**p.

You know that mangler has a nicely built rig. That said , not much is left that is J**p.


I wouldn't say nice Jeep but a badass Jeep. By the way nice job on the floor/doghouse cover

I wouldn't say nice Jeep but a badass Jeep. By the way nice job on the floor/doghouse cover

Thanks Ken. Did you check out the cool bump stops ?

Now that I got some paint on the frame, You find out what you forgot to do. The fuel line bulk head plates. Well I need some more paint now.

definitely serious. What size is your die?

Looks cool Dan, I made some arms for mine to hold the tranny/transfer case in postion. The t-case wants to rotate the whole thing. Plus after having the whole thing slide off the jack, I decide I needed something better. This way I can just slide it up and the tranny holes line up. but I used a tranny jack that has tilt up and down and side to side. If you need to barrow it for a few months or more let me know. It's nice and wide so it wont tip over either Best part is you can just leave it on the jack until you ready and it on wheels so you can move it around the shop:smokin:
Edit: I'm slow your tranny is out, but if you need it when going back in let me know.

Looks cool Dan, I made some arms for mine to hold the tranny/transfer case in postion. The t-case wants to rotate the whole thing. Plus after having the whole thing slide off the jack, I decide I needed something better. This way I can just slide it up and the tranny holes line up. but I used a tranny jack that has tilt up and down and side to side. If you need to barrow it for a few months or more let me know. It's nice and wide so it wont tip over either Best part is you can just leave it on the jack until you ready and it on wheels so you can move it around the shop:smokin:
Edit: I'm slow your tranny is out, but if you need it when going back in let me know.

Thanks Craig ,I did build one for one of my floor jacks. I put in a side to side tilt and a front to back also. But thanks again.

Great build. I am very impressed with your fab skills. I just picked up a 69 800a for my wife. She has always wanted one, so this will be a father son's project. Keep us updated.

Great build. I am very impressed with your fab skills. I just picked up a 69 800a for my wife. She has always wanted one, so this will be a father son's project. Keep us updated.

Thanks Badart, Get started and post up some pics.

hey doug, what spring rates are you using in the front?

hey doug, what spring rates are you using in the front?

Hey Damin, I think you want rkscout. :D

Sorry Dan, youre right.

I was able to get some paint on the cage today,and let it bake in the sun.shade sun shade.

how much would you charge to build me a cage?

rockthedog and his son mangler came by today. We got the tub back on the frame to check the fire wall clearence etc. Just a bit of changes and it should be fine. The exaust will be a trick.

Working on the trail oven, I could use advise on inslation. What have you guys used that will hold up to direct heat of the down pipe?

So has anyone used the header wrap on a turbo down tub? Not sure if that would be too hot and or would this produce noxious fumes that would be unpleasant in the cab area?

So has anyone used the header wrap on a turbo down tub? Not sure if that would be too hot and or would this produce noxious fumes that would be unpleasant in the cab area?

I have it on the downpipe of my duramax, I will try to run it and see how hot it gets. As far as fumes goes I have no idea.

I have it on the downpipe of my duramax, I will try to run it and see how hot it gets. As far as fumes goes I have no idea.

Thanks jard12381; If you have the wrap on the pipe and it is holding up then thats the kind I should look into.

Hey Moses...............

is this the same rig you started this thread with LAST DECADE?
01-26-08? :flipoff2:

Hey Moses...............

is this the same rig you started this thread with LAST DECADE?
01-26-08? :flipoff2:

Ha, It is and it will take even more time. I could cry about all the economy and lack of work and such but that is preaching to the choir I'm sure. This build is fun and yes it would be more fun to be done, But I will enjoy building it at a slower pace than most.

Ha, It is and it will take even more time. I could cry about all the economy and lack of work and such but that is preaching to the choir I'm sure. This build is fun and yes it would be more fun to be done, But I will enjoy building it at a slower pace than most.

A word of advise.
If you take a month or 4 years to make it look purdy, in two seconds, it will get torn up all the same.

I have rebuilt mine at least 4 times since 2000. I no longer spend the time on the little details as I will tear it up anyways! :D It used to bother me if I didn't get a year or two out of the rig before it needed a rebuild. Now I just look at it as it WILL happen that it WILL get torn up all to hell.

With that attitude, I sleep much better at night.:) Get it done and enjoy it. There will be plenty opportunity to redo something after you rebuild again and again because you wrecked and wrecked it and wrecked it.

Then again, you may want to ignore me becuase I just may be a shitty driver! :homer:

A word of advise.
If you take a month or 4 years to make it look purdy, in two seconds, it will get torn up all the same.

I have rebuilt mine at least 4 times since 2000. I no longer spend the time on the little details as I will tear it up anyways! :D It used to bother me if I didn't get a year or two out of the rig before it needed a rebuild. Now I just look at it as it WILL happen that it WILL get torn up all to hell.

With that attitude, I sleep much better at night.:) Get it done and enjoy it. There will be plenty opportunity to redo something after you rebuild again and again because you wrecked and wrecked it and wrecked it.

Then again, you may want to ignore me becuase I just may be a shitty driver! :homer:

Thanks for the advice Shadow man. Trust me,I don't loss sleep over the details. The details are all I can afford at this time. Plan to run the engine soon but for most soon is relative. Once was a time when I had to get a race car done to make a race. Now it is just another hobby and when it happens it happens. Try not to give up on the war pony , if you can and some day we will meet up on the trail. Thanks again.

what parts do you need? thanks for the advice on calling wfo. My buddy called them and they're gonna build him a nice waggy d44 high steer for cheap.

what parts do you need? thanks for the advice on calling wfo. My buddy called them and they're gonna build him a nice waggy d44 high steer for cheap.

I just need six correct loto numbers.:D And cool on the WFO Trever is a nice guy.

no seriously what do you need?

no seriously what do you need?

ARB front and rear . A set of 42" Iroks + wheels Two ring and pinion sets. Three PRP seats. Drive shafts. Then just some small stuff. And a check book to cover it all.Not much.

what about a ceramic coating on the down pipe? Supposed to lower it like 30 degrees, and a nice heat shield on the firewall?

what about a ceramic coating on the down pipe? Supposed to lower it like 30 degrees, and a nice heat shield on the firewall?

Hey plug ugly. I was thinking header wrap on the down tub and heat shield on both sides of the fire wall. Not sure about ceramic coating with a flex pipe. The trick is to not get the cab or fire wall hot but then get the oven box hot. I could go back and add lizard skin if I need more.

to get it going could you weld the diffs (miller locker) and use stock gearing? here's a craigslist deal for new 37" tires for 16.5 rims only $650.00 for four tires!
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/pts/2385166085.html

Thanks David, That is what I would do if this was a race car and we had a date for a race. I would prefer to spend money on tires with the size I am building it for. All be it that seems to be a good deal on tires. I will ride dog for a bit longer.

Header wrap seemed to bake the steel on mine. I removed some wrap and the steel tube flaked off. Could have been the water holes/mud holes,etc.

I now only have short sections of header wrap and that seems to work better. I cut some 3" exhaust tube in half for heat shield.

Insulation works great to keep the heat out of the cab too.

Dang that a good deal on tires. :smokin: :) They are great for mileage thats for sure as they wear like iron. perfact for an expo rig.

A word of advise.
If you take a month or 4 years to make it look purdy, in two seconds, it will get torn up all the same.

I have rebuilt mine at least 4 times since 2000. I no longer spend the time on the little details as I will tear it up anyways! :D It used to bother me if I didn't get a year or two out of the rig before it needed a rebuild. Now I just look at it as it WILL happen that it WILL get torn up all to hell.

With that attitude, I sleep much better at night.:) Get it done and enjoy it. There will be plenty opportunity to redo something after you rebuild again and again because you wrecked and wrecked it and wrecked it.

Then again, you may want to ignore me becuase I just may be a shitty driver! :homer:
But then you don't get a pretty picture for posterity :flipoff2:
ARB front and rear . A set of 42" Iroks + wheels Two ring and pinion sets. Three PRP seats. Drive shafts. Then just some small stuff. And a check book to cover it all.Not much.
Thats what your doubler is for!

The wrap I have on my down pipe seems to really help keep the heat down. I had my EGT's at 800-1000* than stopped opened the hood and I was able to hold my hand comfortably on the downpipe just post turbo, just prior to where the wrap started it was scorching hot. The wrap came with my twin turbo kit from maximized performance inc. If you call them up and speak to the owner Nathan I am sure he will tell you the brand of the wrap. Rob from Adrenaline Truck Performance in Idaho will know the wrap brand as well. I hope this helps.

The wrap I have on my down pipe seems to really help keep the heat down. I had my EGT's at 800-1000* than stopped opened the hood and I was able to hold my hand comfortably on the downpipe just post turbo, just prior to where the wrap started it was scorching hot. The wrap came with my twin turbo kit from maximized performance inc. If you call them up and speak to the owner Nathan I am sure he will tell you the brand of the wrap. Rob from Adrenaline Truck Performance in Idaho will know the wrap brand as well. I hope this helps.

Hey thanks jrad12381, Thats what I was looking for.

hey jerad, how long has the wrap been on there? does it get wet at all?

Its been on for 3 plus years. I have never checked but I am sure it gets a little moisture when I drive in the rain.

Dan,

I used DEI Titanium wrap on my down tube, it makes a considerable difference in the temps, as my downtube wraps around the back of the bellhousing also. I haven't had a chance to run it really hard, but so far it seem to be working well.

The DEI Titanium wrap is rated for higher temps than the usual fiberglass wrap.

DEI titanium exhaust wrap with LR technology is constructed from pulverized lava rock, extruded into fibers, and then woven into a tight weave, giving it titanium-like strength and toughness. This improvement in thermal protection helps to reduce underhood temperatures, resulting in cooler air intake for improved performance. And less heat in the engine bay means less chance of heat soak conditions on vital underhood components. Typical glass fiber wrap is rated at handling 1,200 degrees F of maximum direct heat, while Design Engineering's titanium wrap, using LR technology, is capable of handling direct continuous heat up to 1,800 degrees F and radiant heat up to 2,800 degrees F. And because it's pliable, there's no need to wet the wrap when wrapping headers or pipes, as many do in order to make the wrapping process easier to manage and to get a tight wrap. Titanium wrap will not shrink, and because of its material structure, it is more resistant to temperature and vibration breakdown, abrasions, and chemical and hot oil spills than glass fiber wrap. Plus, DEI's titanium wrap offers a very cool carbon fiber look as an added feature!

Dan,

I used DEI Titanium wrap on my down tube, it makes a considerable difference in the temps, as my downtube wraps around the back of the bellhousing also. I haven't had a chance to run it really hard, but so far it seem to be working well.

The DEI Titanium wrap is rated for higher temps than the usual fiberglass wrap.

Thanks guidolyons, I have been looking at that stuff, the volcanic rock stuff and I think it will be the way to go.I have not had time to call on the stuff that jrad12381 suggested. I bet it is the same . I think that wrap then the foil type of insulation on both sides of the fire wall should work. if not then I will have a do over. Again the hard part is to get the heat in the box and out, the trail oven that is, not in the cab. thanks again guidolyons.

I can't sit by and watch this thread die. Get to work.....:mad3:
Is it running yet. Ive' waiting for the call:shaking:

I conquer with Neil.....get to working on your rig. I need to fab something, so if you need help give me a call.....

You guys are killing me :flipoff2:

Updates???

:lmao:

see what I did there?

Updates???

:lmao:

see what I did there?

funny... I was wondering the same about you. :flipoff2:

well, i'm unemployed for the next few months sooo......Less money, more time. Kind of a shitty sitch.

Updates???

:lmao:

see what I did there?

I parked right next to your rig.:flipoff2: Not to much as far as the scout, working on a deal to possibly get some funds for tires. Picked up the Harbor freight 36" brake so I can make some stuff for the rig.

Not a significant update, but it is forward progress. I picked up two prp seats , a ruff stuff diff cover and a new ring & pinion for the dana 70 5:13. All from pirate misc.:D

I parked right next to your rig.:flipoff2: Not to much as far as the scout, working on a deal to possibly get some funds for tires. Picked up the Harbor freight 36" brake so I can make some stuff for the rig.

used the brake yet? I was considering buying one for floor pans, etc.

used the brake yet? I was considering buying one for floor pans, etc.

Yes, I have been playing with that and a bead roller. Floor pans are on my list as well as tunnel and dash. It works OK just dose not go high enough to remove a brake bend on the back side, so I have had to unbolt it a time or two.

how thick are you bending?

Damn, I was hoping for some significant progress :flipoff2:

I ordered myself a set of PRPs this week, too, should be ready in about 2 weeks.

Check out this thread on the HF brake by Yager, with a few mods, it's pretty decent.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=553583&highlight=brake

how thick are you bending?

I have been using scrap from my shop. 16* 22* and some 1" strips of 14*. I need to run up to Blue collar and get some more to play with. The 1" 14* is just to look at a profile and get a better idea on some bends. The mods look good on the post from Guido, I would like to get it to raise off the plate some more.

Damn, I was hoping for some significant progress :flipoff2:

I ordered myself a set of PRPs this week, too, should be ready in about 2 weeks.

Check out this thread on the HF brake by Yager, with a few mods, it's pretty decent.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=553583&highlight=brake

Thanks for the linc. I picked up the seats used but they are in pretty good shape. Show some pics when you get em in that shiny red beast.:D

I got one of these if you need to bend something thicker.
Made this vid a while back.

SWAG Press Brake kit - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VoC9evhKwnE)

I got one of these if you need to bend something thicker.
Made this vid a while back.

SWAG Press Brake kit - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VoC9evhKwnE)

Hey Craig, Saw that when you put it together. I need to put one on my press. I did make a mini version to bend some parts for rockthedog, but it is only about 2" wide.

Had a broken stud on the exhaust manifold side of the head. Got a good center and went at it with a left hand bit. Then went to the snap on easy out and broke it off in the head. The head was untouched till this weekend. Had some shop time with the fellas and we got that stud out with some magic stud extraction rod. All better now.

magic stud extraction rod.

I'm scratching my head........Cuz I been drinkin....:flipoff2: WTF???

He simply pulled out his rod and magically extracted studs. How much more complicated could that be? :flipoff2:

I picked up another trans, mine was broken. I got a 700r4 from crazykooter, thanks Josh. This should work fine.

Had a broken stud on the exhaust manifold side of the head. Got a good center and went at it with a left hand bit. Then went to the snap on easy out and broke it off in the head. The head was untouched till this weekend. Had some shop time with the fellas and we got that stud out with some magic stud extraction rod. All better now.

I'm scratching my head........Cuz I been drinkin....:flipoff2: WTF???

I use the SS 312 rod as that seems to work well. Dan set me up a couple years back, and I've done this a couple times now. Once at home and twice on the trail. :smokin: Well worth learning how to do.

From this years Fall rubicon run
Did two studs here, both were busted off below the surface about 3/8" too.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/scout254/rubicon/P1010169.jpg

I use the SS 312 rod as that seems to work well. Dan set me up a couple years back, and I've done this a couple times now. Once at home and twice on the trail. :smokin: Well worth learning how to do.

From this years Fall rubicon run
Did two studs here, both were busted off below the surface about 3/8" too.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c101/scout254/rubicon/P1010169.jpg

Hey Craig, You used the magic orange paint too.:D

I use the SS 312 rod as that seems to work well. Dan set me up a couple years back, and I've done this a couple times now. Once at home and twice on the trail. :smokin: Well worth learning how to do.


Linky??? Always like to learn something cool.......:D

It's back. I have not done much but here is the battery tray that I put together. This will be mounted down on the frame driver side opposite of the fuel tank sump. I needed the batteries to be removable from the back side of the tray, with the quarter pnl. on, this will be the only access. So I used two 5/16" bolts on the aft side and the forward end it hooks to the top bar, for an up and out removal.

I picked up four of these. I will be running the battery cable in the frame. With the bulkhead connectors, two at the battery location , one at the starter and one at the winch area. I will wrap the cables in that plastic coil armor to prevent chaffing.

My wife put some cash on my WFO account so I had rockthedog pick me up a few things. Thanks Glenn. I got a torque arm kit. Some shock mount tabs for the rear axle and a 1350 out put flange so I can measure for drive shaft. I was also able to pick up a gasket set for the Isuzu engine, now I can put the head back on.

Hey Dan,

I forgot to mention, there are a few different flanges for the 1350. I want to say the HA one is shorter than the parts mike ones. I will see if I can find out which. Its not enough to make a difference in driveshaft length really, but if you have any tight clearances with xmembers and shaft bolts, it helps some.

also, was there anything you wanted me to drop off for a while for mock up or measurements?

Hey Dan,

I forgot to mention, there are a few different flanges for the 1350. I want to say the HA one is shorter than the parts mike ones. I will see if I can find out which. Its not enough to make a difference in drive shaft length really, but if you have any tight clearances with xmembers and shaft bolts, it helps some.

also, was there anything you wanted me to drop off for a while for mock up or measurements?

Hey Damon, If you have a short drive shaft, 1350, that could help. Thanks. So how did that panel work out?

its a pretty tight fit still I may trim one side but am goint to wait till I get the rest of the pieces in.

Shortest shaft I have is what i cut down for me rear, I think 27"

So I got some work done . Yeah it's still alive. I am just a few more hook ups away from a test run of the engine. Need to find out what kind of pipe thread for a temp and oil press. gauge, is on this engine.

I also picked up some wheels from mangler, they should work out nice. Thanks Clint.

Lookin' good... :)

looks great Dan. You want to borrow that driveshaft? Its cut into two pieces so you can make it longer than 27" if you need.

Thanks Damon, but It's about 24". I am looking at how get the angle and such but I may need to put some weight on it to get it more in the ride hight.

we can cut this down some more, its a mock up shaft and the tube has to be replaced anywy, does that change your mind?

That sounds like a plan. I'm not in a big rush but we can work it out.

Dan, glad to see some progress :beer:

I see you went for the DEI Titanium wrap on the exhaust. I've been real happy with mine, almost 100*F difference.

267*F Turbo v/s 181*F wrapped (86*F) at idle.

That was the best I could find and thanks for the tip. I need to hook up a oil press. and temp gauge to run it for the first time. I need to find out what kind of thread this is. OP looks like 1/8 npt but just a bit smaller, and the water ports may be 16mX 1.5 not sure. Then I can address the flywheel prob. I can't find a manual Isuzu flywheel, I have the auto and it is heavy like a flywheel just not as heavy. It may have a hard time at idle.

Dan, I believe the threads for the oil pressure hole in the block are BSPT (British Standard Pipe Thread). I have a temporary gauge on mine, and 1/8 NPT did not fit. This is also true for the turbo oil line on the filter adapter, though it's larger. I also vaguely remember matching up the size for the coolant lines. I want to say those are BSPT, as well.

Let me dig through some old receipts and see if I can find the oil adapter size.

Yup, they're British threads. I was wrong about the designation, though. BSPT is British Standard Pipe Tapered. There's also a BSPP, which is British Standard Pipe Parallel.

I only found one of my old receipts, but I think it'll help. The oil pressure threads should be 1/8-28 BSPT. The coolant threads, if I recall, are parallel. I don't remember what size I bought, but it's probably somewhere around 3/8" or 1/2" BSPP. You can put a micrometer on the threads and see what you're working with. Check out this link (http://www.newmantools.com/taps/bsp.htm) for the specifications.

For the oil pressure gauge, I used a BSPT-to-NPT adapter, into which I threaded the gauge adapter (see below). The coolant lines I temporarily plugged. I wish I could remember the size -- it's been too long! :laughing:


http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh194/tehintranets/Diesel%20YJ/photo1.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh194/tehintranets/Diesel%20YJ/photo2.jpg

Thanks a bunch Andy, That is very helpful. I was thinking British pipe then someone said no it's metric, so i was ???? any way thanks.

OK not a big deal for some of you , but I did fire up the engine for the first time today. It was good, but I do have a weepy injector seal on number two. I may need a new seal, but it was a runner. For me that was a big deal.

Sweet :smokin: great progress... feels good to hear it run I bet :D

SWEET!:beer:

Nice! Now get us some video... :D

OK Andy test run on video. Only a few of us can appreciate a 4 cyl tractor engine.



http://youtu.be/A69ukDTUdRw

very cool :smokin:

There we go. Looks awesome!

So refresh us -- that intercooler is the smaller Isuzu version, right? I believe they made those in three different sizes. The one from my '94 GMC W4 is taller. What are your expectations for the horizontal mount? A while back you had said about running an electric fan up there... still doing that? I've been contemplating mounting the intercooler for my project in a similar manner.

awesome. thats gotta feel good.

There we go. Looks awesome!

So refresh us -- that intercooler is the smaller Isuzu version, right? I believe they made those in three different sizes. The one from my '94 GMC W4 is taller. What are your expectations for the horizontal mount? A while back you had said about running an electric fan up there... still doing that? I've been contemplating mounting the intercooler for my project in a similar manner.

Andy, I have a ton of room between the radiator and pulleys. That also gives me room under the cooler for say a trans cooler fan. To that add some louvers to the hood, or some kind of scoop, and it should work fine. I think it was Beefcakescout that pointed out the Pontiac scoops, and Guidolyons showed me some Marine louvers. I have not gone to the hood for that yet, rockthedog would shoot me for not staying focused.Yes this is the cooler that was on the Isuzu truck, it did'nt fit with my radiator.

The motor sounds like a beast! Yes Dan , FOCUS!

Things lookin good.

Andy, I have a ton of room between the radiator and pulleys. That also gives me room under the cooler for say a trans cooler fan. To that add some louvers to the hood, or some kind of scoop, and it should work fine. I think it was Beefcakescout that pointed out the Pontiac scoops, and Guidolyons showed me some Marine louvers. I have not gone to the hood for that yet, rockthedog would shoot me for not staying focused.Yes this is the cooler that was on the Isuzu truck, it did'nt fit with my radiator.

Gotcha. Thanks for the details. Any chance you could measure the dimensions of your intercooler for me? I might have to go to an aftermarket version for my project, and I'd like to get something within the stock specifications.

Gotcha. Thanks for the details. Any chance you could measure the dimensions of your intercooler for me? I might have to go to an aftermarket version for my project, and I'd like to get something within the stock specifications.

Andy I will try and get this to you as best I can. The core is 19 5/8" X 8 1/2". With the tanks the narrow side is 23" and the wide end is 27 1/2". Looks like 23" between the in and out. the tanks are 3" thick. The in and out are 2 1/2 ". The mount holes are 21 1/2" X 10 1/2". Hope this helps.

Andy I will try and get this to you as best I can. The core is 19 5/8" X 8 1/2". With the tanks the narrow side is 23" and the wide end is 27 1/2". Looks like 23" between the in and out. the tanks are 3" thick. The in and out are 2 1/2 ". The mount holes are 21 1/2" X 10 1/2". Hope this helps.

Thanks, Dan.

I hope you could decipher my attempt to measure that cooler. I have a new crank adapter coming to use the Isuzu auto fly wheel. just one more step in the forward direction. Hope you can get some time for yours.

SUMMER 2013 ! Just sayin:homer:

SUMMER 2013 ! Just sayin:homer:

Yes Glenn, 2013 !

It's just about time to rebuild the transmission. Yesterday I built this jig to hold the trans for rebuilding. This is why you have that extra engine stand and that box of " what will I use that for" some where in the shop.

It's just about time to rebuild the transmission. Yesterday I built this jig to hold the trans for rebuilding. This is why you have that extra engine stand and that box of " what will I use that for" some where in the shop.

Nice, I am a big fan of making life easier with your scrap metal as well!

Nice, I am a big fan of making life easier with your scrap metal as well!

Thats what makes the world go round:homer:

I went to order my hard parts today but the guy was on vaca, so I painted the pan just to be ready.

So any one have an opinion on automatic full manual reverse shifter with or with out engine braking? I plan to go 5 pinion planetary and the beast sun shell. Borg Warner clutches and a 10 vane pump. If any auto guys can add to my list to buy let me know.

SUMMER 2013 ! Just sayin:homer:

Yes Glenn, 2013 !

Standard 5 year build plan :flipoff2:

Glad to see some more progress :beer:

Hey Dan, I'd suggest getting the one with engine braking. I'm running a tci full manual reverse pattern v/b with engine braking. I do feel it holding me back a little. Mine's a th350 though. I also went with a low stall converter with an anti-ballooning plate in it. I also found a 36 tooth second gear sprag (same as an upgraded th400 one) as I broke the hardened 18 tooth upgraded one. Most of my stuff is all tci. The thing with the full manual v/b I was told, is you can get a lot of line pressure, and that holds very well. I have a huge drop in oil temp now.

So any one have an opinion on automatic full manual reverse shifter with or with out engine braking? I plan to go 5 pinion planetary and the beast sun shell. Borg Warner clutches and a 10 vane pump. If any auto guys can add to my list to buy let me know.

x2 on the low band apply. I got my rev man valve body w/ low band apply from Cope racing for my 727. As John explained to me, typical racing valve bodies do not apply full pressure in reverse (allowing the clutches to slip), since racing applications don't need a lot of power backing up. The low band apply in a rock crawler will extend the life of your trans and give you full power when rocking the truck. My 727 has been beat on for over 3 years now with no issues.

Thanks guys, I did get my parts ordered . I got talked out of the engine braking because it's diesel.

You got talked out of engine braking? I'm curious why. The high compression ratio of a diesel is a real advantage here.

You got talked out of engine braking? I'm curious why. The high compression ratio of a diesel is a real advantage here.

Andy , I was told it would be very hard on the T converter. I did want to go that way , if you know if this is not true then let me know.

Andy , I was told it would be very hard on the T converter. I did want to go that way , if you know if this is not true then let me know.

Why should it be any harder on the torque converter than driving? I would imagine that so long as you done engine brake faster/harder than normal acceleration, it shouldn't be a problem.

The only think I can think of is IF the gears were shaped differently front to back, like a differential ring gear.

I would like to know the reasoning behind whoever told you that. It may be a valid reason, but I can't think of it.

Andy , I was told it would be very hard on the T converter. I did want to go that way , if you know if this is not true then let me know.

I don't have any firsthand experience to back up my thoughts, but I'm with Joe on this one. High-performance torque converters can take hundreds of horsepower, so I couldn't imagine a 140 hp diesel hurting anything. Many of the trucks these engines came in were automatics and had vacuum-operated exhaust brake controls. Those converters were huge and built for the task, but then again, you aren't going to be hauling a 20,000 pound load down an 8% grade.

I would be interested to hear the transmission shop's justification. Maybe when they hear "diesel" they think you have a high-torque Duramax or Cummins?

Well I will continue to look in to this.

So I did speak with the TCI guys again and they think the engine braking will be OK. I am in the middle of the trans rebuild and I am held up on parts. Some how they got returned. Should be in next week,so in the meantime I got the disc brake brackets for the 70. The calipers from Napa look nice all painted right out of the box.