What's stopping me from taking a standard 1/2 ton GM style caliper bracet and and welding a second bracket to it for running dual calipers?
Iv'e done zero research on this (i.e. playing with junk on the parts racks).

Issues as I see them:

1) clearance. there *should* be room to stick a caliper in front of the top balljoint as I have sketched it, but I can try that myself

2) fluid volume. I think the bore size ofa CJ is 7/8", anda 1-ton is something like 1 1/8", so that's roughy 60% more volume, but not double. so there'd have to be a longer stroke on the brake pedal by 20%-ish. no biggie.

3) cooling. I'd be covering a lot more of the rotor, those things coould heat up and maybe warp pretty fast.

anythign else? for the price of a MC, 2 scrapyard brackets and 2 delco calipers, this could bea cheap way to upgrade front brakes signifigantly (assuming it works)

http://www.dana60.com/sundowner/bracket.jpg

I don't see the point...I have the stock dual piston calipers on my D60 and I can lock my 38's up just fine.

Adding another caliper to your rotor is just going to make it heat up and warp even faster....I think you'd be much better off spending the time/effort/money on larger rotors and calipers.

Originally posted by Sundowner
What's stopping me from taking a standard 1/2 ton GM style caliper bracet and and welding a second bracket to it for running dual calipers?
Iv'e done zero research on this (i.e. playing with junk on the parts racks).

Issues as I see them:

1) clearance. there *should* be room to stick a caliper in front of the top balljoint as I have sketched it, but I can try that myself

2) fluid volume. I think the bore size ofa CJ is 7/8", anda 1-ton is something like 1 1/8", so that's roughy 60% more volume, but not double. so there'd have to be a longer stroke on the brake pedal by 20%-ish. no biggie.

3) cooling. I'd be covering a lot more of the rotor, those things coould heat up and maybe warp pretty fast.

anythign else? for the price of a MC, 2 scrapyard brackets and 2 delco calipers, this could bea cheap way to upgrade front brakes signifigantly (assuming it works)

http://www.dana60.com/sundowner/bracket.jpg

The extra caliper would have to be from the opposite side so that the bleeder valve was pointed up. That, or make sure that the line went through the upside down caliper first and then to the upside right one so that it could be blead. I imagine that wrping your rotors would become a huge problem.

J. J.

You still can't push that much fluid with a standard MC. You'd need like a booster with three diaphrams, and another chamber in the MC.

By the time you work that out, just use a dual diaphram booster, and it'll lock them up.

Bryan

You still can't push that much fluid with a standard MC. You'd need like a booster with three diaphrams, and another chamber in the MC.

boosters control force multiplication at the pedal, not volume.

1-tons use dual piston calipers, stock, but I dont' know the bore size (yes I seached, maybe not hard enough).

I may steal a dual diaphragm booster, but that's a second option.

I know, I was thinking more about the volume, but threw that in there for effect. You acknowledge you'll need more volume from the MC, so why not start with the dual diaphram booster and go from there? If I could lock up my 38s on James with D44 1/2 ton calipers, then maybe there's just something wrong in your setup now.

Bryan

it would work it is done on racecars occasionally so that they don't have to change pads during the race. It was also done to allow them to run lower pressure in the brake lines to get a firmer pedal, but now they have better solutions for that. In that application they usually try to maintain a similar pedal force so they need to double the master cylinder area or increase the bore by 50% ie from 3/4 to 1 -1/8. if the two master cylinders have the same stroke this would also solve the fluid volume problem.

I really think the way to do 4x4 brakes is to change the mechanical advantage at the pedal It results in a lot of pedal travel which is bad for road racing but no big deal in a 4x4. This is also the typical desert race method.

If I could lock up my 38s on James with D44 1/2 ton calipers, then maybe there's just something wrong in your setup now.

that's true I had forgotten about James. the J20 booster looks identical to my Cherokee one.
I'll end up doing that, but it just seems too damn easy.:(