Now why wont this work

Get a Caliper bracket from AA manufactring (http://www.aa-mfg.com/)
http://www.aa-mfg.com/catalog/Aa049a.jpg

and some of the calipers that i use on the front the same 1/2 chevy stuff

maybe throw in an adjustale prop valve

other then that it should work

I will loose my e-brake, but i am sure it has not worked since 1971, so no loss there

Congrats.....You successfully just did what 90% of the people who put on rear disks do :flipoff2:

Only other thing you need it a 1/2 ton Ford rotor (your is still 5 lug right?) and you're set

I don't know if it will work I've got small bearing bracket on the 9 inch with cadilac calipers and it sucks. I have to remove the calipers everytime I need to bleed them cause they don't point straight up. I like the bracket from bc broncos fixes that problem.
Those brackets are sweet if they work and you can't beat that price.

Originally posted by FordPowr
Congrats.....You successfully just did what 90% of the people who put on rear disks do :flipoff2:

Only other thing you need it a 1/2 ton Ford rotor (your is still 5 lug right?) and you're set

LOL, opp's Add 1 jeep hat style rotor
so far this is still like under 100 bucks for all new stuff

Originally posted by welndmn


LOL, opp's Add 1 jeep hat style rotor
so far this is still like under 100 bucks for all new stuff

Actually more like 95% of the people.

Check your PM

Yes use caddy calipers and you can keep your e brake use the ford 1/2 ton rotors and some chevy brake hoses ( the calipers float so you need them ) and langer wheel studs I have the master cylinder out of the 78 camper special and have not needed anythig else. If you use the ford rotors you have to clear them to get to the axel retaing bolts and make sure you point your bleders up.

I remember a conversation with you about rear disks are not worth the effort on a 9"

what gives? :rasta:

Originally posted by jopes
I remember a conversation with you about rear disks are not worth the effort on a 9"

what gives? :rasta:
Trying to use up all my parts laying around the garage, so far all i need is a bracket


Ohh yeah, i have yet to meet anyone using the same calipers front and back, that was my main question if it was going to work

Y not use Versailles disks?? If you use regular axles 5-5.5", and a front rotor, it should work right?? the rotor spec.s seem to be realy close minus the bolt patterns. I'm thinkin of goin this way. Any reasons not too??
I'ld keep the E-brake option, just incase, but I get V.I.s too often to go without it, it don't work, but its there.

Sh!t, About five years ago I did my first disk conversion and what I used on my 9" rear were ford front rotors w/ 1/2 ton chev calipers and for backing plates I used the 1/2 ton chevy front full circle 1/4" thick type and they work great. Just take the bracket and hog out the center so the bearing will slide on after the bkg plt is on then slide in the axel . The custom part is to get the rotor to fit over the axel hat, What I did on my first one is put the vehicle on stands in the rear and put it in gear and start it up. Then tack a hand grinder and just grind the axel hat down to fit inside the rotor ( some were around 3/16" off). I do a very simular conversion to the front D44's and this way you run the same sh!t at all four corners with the exception of right and left calipers.

Oh, this set up cost's about $200 and that is all new parts but the bkg plts.

Originally posted by Rogue Bronco
Y not use Versailles disks??

Versailles are 5 on 4 1/2. I think Mark V is 5 on 5 1/2.

Versailles are 5 on 4 1/2. I think Mark V is 5 on 5 1/2. [/B][/QUOTE]


From what I remember the Versailles is a solid rotor and not to big. And the mark-v has to much crap for mounting and the e-brakes are not worth what they cost. Also in my opion I like to run parts you could find in K-mart if needed. The 1/2 ton chevy is in every parts house and the ford rotor has been the same one since 1975. And to top it off my set up works front to back for spare parts.

Originally posted by Paul Gagnon


Versailles are 5 on 4 1/2. I think Mark V is 5 on 5 1/2.
Bolt pattern wont matter if I use my EB axles and front rotors.
The disks I have of a Versailles are vented rotors. the caliper bracket is also the bearing retainer, same flange pattern as EB big bearing. the axle shaft to housing flange is about the same, and the rotors are real close to the same. 'Theoreticly' it should all bolt up, but not sure if the Versailles calipers & E- brake are worth a shit. (not like my E-brake works now anyways).

The Chev. set-up sounds pretty sweet but I wanna E-brake, I've had 3 vehicle inspections so far, haven't failed one yet but a missing E-brake would give them something to bitch about. And without an E-brake, there would be no more E-brake slides, were's the fun in that??
:smokin: :smokin:

Sweet info. I was just searching on line for new rear slaves for the drums on my 79' 1/2 ton. Screw that... If I can convert it to disk......So what year of Caddy's would you look for? Ohh also was told Chevy Monty Carlo Rear Calibers would work and still get the E-brake. Any Idea/Opions on that and what years?
What rotors would slide on with out having to modifing them?


Ohh sorry welndmn for jumping in on your post like this..


LOL great minds think alike at times I guess hahahahaha.

I like rokcrln idea sounds and looks good....Probly doit cheaper if you bought from the Junk Yard, you think?

I have the AA brackets/ jeep front 5x5.5 rotors and some type of floating GM calipers that cam with a 9" EB rear I bought- like the set up that started this thread.

My ? is what do you do to take up the space of the drum backing plate? and Do the rotors just slide on over the end of the axle shaft? then just mount the wheel and that holds it on?

What is the best way to figure out where to mount the weld on brackets?

Thanks

My plan for mounting them is simple, and I think it will even work. My calipers have an e-brake. I'll mount the caliper on the weld-on bracket, mount the rotor, position the caliper on the rotor and use a clamp to engage the e-brake. Then weld away!

-Jack

Mark I am currently doing the same thing. The speed shop here in town has those brackets for 15 a pair so that was the route I was going. I use my e-brake all the time so I was going to go with new calipers I think they were 35 a piece with a 55 dollar core. (I got some old calipers laying around that I'll toss in the box for that ;) Didn't think about the ford rotor I've got some of those too... Should be into a complete functional system for under 150.... MXPAZ just did his for around that with BC Broncos bracket and the $13 front chevy calipers and $20 jeep rotors.
Good luck, Jake

Still great info........ Has anyone taken pics and done a write up of this?


My big big question though is what years of these above mentioned donor caliper vechiles am I looking for :question: :question: :question:

When buying Eldorado calipers, there is a year break. The space between the pads on a 77 down is the same as a 77 CJ (I think 1 1/8"). The spacing on a 78 up caliper is the same as an 82 CJ (I think 7/8", I may have these measurments backwards). If you just order parts for a 77 Eldo and 77 CJ, or 82 Eldo and 82 CJ, you will have matching parts. This is what I have planned for my SF D60. Will still have 5x5.5 pattern, and Ford big bearings.

The only thing is, the splined part of the wheel stud was made to slide into the rotor, then through the front hub, so the holes in the rotors are too big to self-center the rotor. I may have to slide the rotor over the axle shaft and press the studs in that way, instead of having the rotor on the outside of the wheel flange, like I had planned. Is this how everyone else is running it?

Willis

I bought the brackets (2 different ones from the pic) and they don't fit my calipers, pin spacing is too wide. Not sure if I wanna cut n weld or get different calipers..

As far as the pin spacing being to wide it sounds like if you are using the chev caliper what the prob is the mounts are for the 3/4 ton chev. In my pick of the full circle backing plate, they are 1/2 ton and the same one comes in 3/4 ton but the caliper holes are like a 1/4" off if I rember (it has been a few beers and the girl friend is rapping me so I may be confused) Right.

Hey is there a bolt on braket for the calipers that you can get to do this swap?

I have no access to a welder and it would be a hella of alot easier to do in my drive way then hual my truck and/or axle to some place for 10 minutes of welding

The Versailles caliper bracket bolts to a big bearing EB axle.

I have been working on my Rear Disc 9" for a little bit and this is what I came up with.

I used a Lincoln Mark V rear with Rear discs but they had the wrong bolt pattern and the caliper bracket had to be pressed on. So you had to find a spare in order to have a spare axle shaft I didn't like that Idea i wanted to be able to find my 31 spline 9" axles easily. And I didn't like the idea of having to have something pressed on.

I took the Caliper brackets off and then I modifed them a little. I cut a hole in them so they would be able slide between the axle and the bearing retainer. The calipers from the factory face straight up but I wanted to angle both of them backward so to prevent as caked with mud. It also helped with the way I notched the bracket I had to drill new holes for the axle and had to buy longer bolts. As a spacer between the bearing retainter plate and the axle I cut the old Drum brake backing plate up and used that as a spacer.

I have a pic of the factory Mark V bracket and my modified bracket if someone with a red star would email me. dangerranger33@hotmail.com

Now for the rotor problem
Inside the rotor "hat" diameter is 6" on the stock Mark V rotors. I wanted to keep same rotors front to rear so I measured the stock F150 rotors and the "hat" diameter is 6.5" a lot Closer to fitting the axle flange diameter is 7" so that's less modification. But the depth of the "hat" on the F150 rotors is too much for this caliper. SO I measured a buddies CJ7 and those rotors have a 6.5" inside hat diameter and they have the right bolt patter and the "hat" depth measured correct for what I need.



As a side note this is on a project vehicle that is not completed so I don't know how well any of this will work but all of seems to be simple enough to work out. This is just what i've tried to do.

I bought the axle for $100 then add bolts, new CJ7 Rotors and cutting blades my Rear disc is about $170.

THis is the Pic of Dangers (IMHO Sweeet) disk break conversion brakets:smokin:

I got my axle flanges machined down just to fit inside a CJ7 rotor and they work great. It is a must to have the CJ7 rotors because of the hat depth. Autozone part #5110.

Hey Ranger if you got pics I will be glad to post them again. I am almost ready to start my swap hehehe

Does anybody know what the differences are in the Cj rotor and the ford 1/2 ton rotor? Going to the parts store to check them out. I'm using the weld on brackets and figured why not run the same rotors front and rear. My axles/rotor need minor clearancing to fit over the axle. Thanks, Jake

Originally posted by dangerranger33

But the depth of the "hat" on the F150 rotors is too much for this caliper. SO I measured a buddies CJ7 and those rotors have a 6.5" inside hat diameter and they have the right bolt patter and the "hat" depth measured correct for what I need.

Originally posted by dangerranger33
Now for the rotor problem
Inside the rotor "hat" diameter is 6" on the stock Mark V rotors. I wanted to keep same rotors front to rear so I measured the stock F150 rotors and the "hat" diameter is 6.5" a lot Closer to fitting the axle flange diameter is 7" so that's less modification. But the depth of the "hat" on the F150 rotors is too much for this caliper. SO I measured a buddies CJ7 and those rotors have a 6.5" inside hat diameter and they have the right bolt patter and the "hat" depth measured correct for what I need.



From this information I gathered that the inside dimension was the same between both rotors (6.5") and that the "hat" depth was different. "What is the difference in the depth's?" should have been my question. Thanks, Jake

Hey just a strange question here ut instead of grabbing a bunch of parts from this and that why not just grab the WHOLE rear axle off a MarkVII or Cady that has a 9" rear and disc brakes? Is it possible to do a straight swap and if not, why?

the problem with a complete Mark V swap is that it has 28 splines NOT 31..... the other problem I see is that in order to have a spare shaft you must have a spare caliper bracket so that let me to fabricate up what I did. ALSO the Mark V ran a 5 on 5 lug pattern not 5 on 5.5 I got some finished pics of mine but gotta have them developed still, If someone really wants em lemme know.

But as for the Hat depth..... the CJ7 rotors is about an inch or so less than the F150. I'll measure in the morning

and yes the inside diameter are the same on both of them.

Ranger shot you a e-mail