Hey all,
Well I asked if there was any interest in this and a few said yes so here goes.
I started this project with a bare housing from a 1976 Ford F150, or at least that is what I was told it was off of. I picked it up off Ebay for $100 and then had to hav eit shipped from PA to WA.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00481.jpg

I cut the ends off as close to the inner knuckles/inner C's as I could.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00485.jpg

Then ground down the welds on the inner C so that I could get the tube that was in them out.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00484.jpg

Tube thickness isn't in issue.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00482.jpg

I had done a search on Pirate before I started this project and was able to get some measurements. 1980-84 Waggy shafts are 15.8" short side and 32.12" long side. To make this housing fit those measurements I need to cut tubes down.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00490.jpg

I took the short side down to a length of 8" and the long side to 24 3/8" from the center of the casting hole on the pumkin to the outside edge of the tube.
We then heated the inner C up in 400 degrees in my buddies oven. (His wife was gone)
It slipped onto the tube no problem.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00493.jpg

We set the pinion angle to 13 degrees and the caster at 7 degrees.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00492.jpg

Checked 5 times and welded ONCE.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00495.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00500.jpg

Then it was time to install the Rubicon Express bracket kit.
Now this is more for a TJ/XJ/ZJ at this point but I figure I should add it.
First is the bridge over the pumkin.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00502.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00504.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00505.jpg

Next is the coil spring brackets/shock mounts.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00507.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00508.jpg

Next is the pass side upper control bracket. We trussed it too just for.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00510.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00511.jpg

Then it was time for the lower control arm brackets.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00512.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00513.jpg

Okay here it is all done.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00515.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00516.jpg

Then I installed a ARB locker/5.13 gears
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00528.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00531.jpg

I hope this helps.

Had this post subscribed to on JU. it helped me when i built mine up. thanks!

super sweet:eek:

Nice job. I am always a fan of using a Ford High Pinion housing for shorting... and to use stock shaft, nice job.

"I took the short side down to a length of 8" and the long side to 24 3/8" from the center of the casting hole on the pumkin to the outside edge of the tube."

Great post.
Could you post pics of where you measured from?

Agree. Thanks for taking the time to post an excellent tutorial on how to do something that a lot of people ask about.

Nice write up. I did the same thing w/ a Chevy 44 housing and it worked out reall well. In hindsight, it would have been the same amount of time & money to go w/ the ford hi-pinion....I chose poorly.

IMO, if you are going SOA or linking and have to adjust the caster, perch angles, etc, it is just as easy to deal with cutting down full width axles to a specified width than to try and cut and turn an axle that is already at the width you need (IE- cut down a Chevy or Ford to Wag width vs just using a wag axle).

Nice to see some tech like this on the non-hardcore board.

How did you end up getting the inner C's true? I understand that there is a u-joint that makes up for any imperfections but it was just as simple as slipping the Inner C over the tubbing and welding it up once u had the desired caster and pinion angle?

Great post again and thanks.

I did the front 44 in my jeep the same way. The inner c is 1 inch thick so it is self aligning, You just need to do pinion angle and caster.

Thanks for posting. I am getting ready to do this. I thnk the only question I have is about welding the C's back on. I am pretty decent now but still learning. About what heat and wire speed did you weld it with after the pre-heat? I don't have any experience on cast.....yet.

Thanks for posting. I am getting ready to do this. I thnk the only question I have is about welding the C's back on. I am pretty decent now but still learning. About what heat and wire speed did you weld it with after the pre-heat? I don't have any experience on cast.....yet.

I did the same thing not too long ago. welding to the C is not that big of a deal. if i remember correctly the C is not cast... every welder is different, so lay some practice beads down and get used to welding on tube.

i just cleaned mine up really good, turned the welder all the way up laid a couple practice beads on some 3/8 steel to check penetration then burned it home. one bead right at the seem, you want a fairly good patch of weld along the whole thing. my wire speed was almost 80% of max. i used a hobart 210 mig.

heres a pic of mine from the summer
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/88jeepcherokee/axles/008.jpg

I did the front 44 in my jeep the same way. The inner c is 1 inch thick so it is self aligning, You just need to do pinion angle and caster.

i disagree, i made that mistake, now i have about 3 deg. of neg camber...opps. it may line up for the most part...but it doesnt hurt to double check.

But how are going to change it on the tube? You can use an offset bushing in the upper balljoint.

I understand that there is a u-joint that makes up for any imperfections
Say what?


I did the same thing not too long ago. welding to the C is not that big of a deal. if i remember correctly the C is not cast...
Nodular Iron... Still you should know how to weld this, it's not for a beginner.


Ok, make sure you read this first before trying the above. --> http://4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/conv/dana44/fsj-cj/

I just rolled my TJ out the door. It also has a Ford 44 cut down to waggy width under it that I did. Worked out well, and fits the Jeep well.

But how are going to change it on the tube? You can use an offset bushing in the upper balljoint.

You can also use camber shims between the knuckle and spindle (NAPA sells 'em).

Nice! Just thought I would ask since I'm in the same boat: ford Hipin for $150 bare housing. What outers did you end up running? I've heard the only 5 on 4.5 (aka stock) lug pattern coming on D44 axles was from the 74-84 dodge pickups and the hub bearings were crap. I'm thinking I need to man up to 5 on 5.5 but haven't made the plunge yet. So what did you end up doing?

Nodular Iron... Still you should know how to weld this, it's not for a beginner.
]

Inner Cs should be forged steel, not cast iron.

Nice! Just thought I would ask since I'm in the same boat: ford Hipin for $150 bare housing. What outers did you end up running? I've heard the only 5 on 4.5 (aka stock) lug pattern coming on D44 axles was from the 74-84 dodge pickups and the hub bearings were crap. I'm thinking I need to man up to 5 on 5.5 but haven't made the plunge yet. So what did you end up doing?

You don't want the Dodge 5 on 4.5 axle unless you want unit bearings like you have now.
Travis..