It is going to go on my rear dana 60/toyota hybrid (30 spline toy axles adapted to a dana 60).

Will a 1350 most likely be adequate for my cruiser w/ 36s V-8 and SM465?
or will a 1410 be advisable?

PS I've never even broken one of my cruiser u-joints yet (twisted the slip yoke splines though).

If I go to a bigger tires in the future I would swap in a 35 spline rearend and would definitely use the bigger u-joint at that time.

Tanks <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Tankota:
<STRONG>It is going to go on my rear dana 60/toyota hybrid (30 spline toy axles adapted to a dana 60).

Will a 1350 most likely be adequate for my cruiser w/ 36s V-8 and SM465?
or will a 1410 be advisable?

PS I've never even broken one of my cruiser u-joints yet (twisted the slip yoke splines though).

If I go to a bigger tires in the future I would swap in a 35 spline rearend and would definitely use the bigger u-joint at that time.

Tanks <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

The 1350 series joint will be plenty for your set-up. The 1410 is stronger and bigger;but, probably a little overkill for your set-up..Actually, overkill is good ,right? You should be fine either way. Hope this helps. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

[ 11-01-2001: Message edited by: onetonwillysands10 ]

Nothing wrong with overkill, and if you are thinking of going bigger in the future, why not go big now.

I run 1410 on the rear (because it's shorter and a larger angle) and 1350 in the front.

I ran 1350 in the rear a few years ago and blew out 3 joints. Never blown out a 1410 yet.

However, with the specs you listed on your truck, you should be fine with 1350's as long as your angles aren't too out of line.

Tim.

I know this might help you understand!!! There are exceptions to every rule....I Run 1410's..... <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
<IMG width=495 height=98 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/U-jointsinfo1.JPG">

Put the 1350 yoke on a couple days ago:) Thanks for the info and that chart.:beer:

Now I get to decide on the type of driveline:rolleyes:

It seems like 1410's are not way stronger, but you can run big angles though. I would like to have 1410's to be honest.;)

If you refer to the chart posted you will notice that he 1410 joint uses the same diameter bearing cap as the 1350.Practically speaking the 1410 joint uses the same bearing cap and the cross portion of the joint is the same diameter as a 1350 only it is longer across.Therefore , the 1410 is not necessarily stronger than a 1350.It does allow for a greater operating angle than a 1350 joint.Which if the joint binds it can cause it to break. Consider the following analogy: which is easier to break ....a 3 inch long stick with a 1 inch diameter or a 6 inch long stick with the same diamater and same material.A 1350 joint should be plenty for your set-up unless you have an operating angle problem .Then the 1410 would probably be more helpful.Hope this helps you out.:D

I look at the U-joint as an inexpensive fuse and carry these fuses with me so that I don't have to carry other bigger, more expensive parts. :smokin:

Bigger is better...

Wish I knew what my driveline angle will be:(
20 degrees for a 1350 compared with 37 degrees for a 1410 is a big difference in max operating angle:eek:

Well I'm already on the path of using the 1350 (got the yoke) so that is what I'll attempt first (of course I may use one of onetonCVs 1350 cv drivelines)

Thanks guys:beer:


Oh, I almost forgot...I'm now running 38.5 SXs with beadlocks (these things are ALOT bigger than the 36 TSLs!) so yes there will be more stress on the drivetrain (my right foot feels so heavy:D )

good luck finding a yoke to allow 37 degrees on a 1410, if there is one to fit a 70 input lemme know I need two of em

Just my opinion, but I definately would not make the driveshafts my "fuse." Imagine going down Lion's Back in Moab and your "fuse" let's go. You've already built up enough inertia and momentum in that split second that stopping would be difficult if not too late. Yeah, they are cheap and more accessible. I know what your're thinking, but in my opinion, save the shafts, lose the axle shafts or better yet, more beef.

Shaker do you have this chart still?

Info is in my 60 article