hey guys, for some reason my 4wd works sometimes and other times it doesnt. for the most part it doesnt. the 4wd light comes on, there is a vacum in the lines (when in 2wd the passenger side line has a vacum. 4wd, driver side) the driveshaft doesnt spin, unless its one of the fluke times that it decides to actually engage. i do hear a clicking sound (assuming that it is axle engaging) when i put the tcase in 4wd and most of the time the front wheels jerk a little forward when put into 4wd. (i have the car up on jacks) any ideas on what could be wrong? thanks

Sounds like the vaccum motor on the axle is on the way out.

Oh yeah.....................welcom newbie :flipoff2:

haha, thanks for the welcome and for the reply. any idea what they cost?

Not sure what they cost. If you are keeping that front axle you might as well get the cable actuator instead of the vaccum. Not sure on were to find those either, maybe Central 4wd or Four wheel parts. I feel pretty stupid when it comes to D30 and D35 axles. I only have D60 adn D70 axles :D

They wont be toooooo much. Call Jeff at Rancho Jeep Dismantler 916-638-3800 He can get you one asap.

ok, i found a check in the service manual to see if the motors working all right. ill take a loot at that and hopefully its a small and cheap problem. thanks for all the help guys, i didnt even think about the vaccum motor

Originally posted by The Rockslut
Not sure what they cost. If you are keeping that front axle you might as well get the cable actuator instead of the vaccum. Not sure on were to find those either, maybe Central 4wd or Four wheel parts. I feel pretty stupid when it comes to D30 and D35 axles. I only have D60 adn D70 axles :D

Its called the posi lock:
http://www.4wheelparts.com/product2.asp?imseqn=1859&occlass=4X4POSI%2DLOK&cat=DRI

$204

Dont buy the factory vacume shift motor its more expensive and sucks.

Here are some cool ideas, a one piece shaft conversion with 297x u-joints will also cost about the same as this shift motor, fix your 4wd, and will increase your axle shaft strength!! Down side your frondrive shaft will now spinn all the time causing a slight drop in gas mileage but its small.

Another good Idea, WELD your front carrier, a lincoln locker if you will. Then buy the posilock as your disconnect. This will fix your 4wd and give you a full locker that you will disconnect when in 2wd and the posilock shifted off! down side the drive shaft will always spin agian causing a drop in gass mielage, and this welded locker will add strain on your axle shafts and may cause breakage.

I chose to go with one piece shaft and currenly run an open diff not great for wheeling but is fairly strong for a d30. If i could do it again Id go posilock and the lincoln lock. If it brakes, carry spare axle shafts, there really not that hard to replace and yard pulls should be cheep.

have fun! but dont buy parts from the stealership!
:D

well i wanted to put a lockright up front and like the idea of vacum disconnect cuz then i can turn. i dont know, ill check out the shift motor and if its toast then ill throw it away and check out what you say. thanks again

save your money from not buying the lock right, then spend alittle more and buy a welder if you dont have one, and weld it up.

Welders are SO COOL.

buy the welder, a great tool that will get you locked, the best of both worlds!!!

Or even better, save the money to put towards a D44, cause locking a D30 only leads to the eventual inevitable.....:nuke:

You got a light?? A light that tell's you if your in 4wd??? WTF cool stuff will they think of next?

Originally posted by FearMe
You got a light?? A light that tell's you if your in 4wd??? WTF cool stuff will they think of next?

Mine doesnt come on, but my ABS light is always on...does that mean I am not in 4wd and my brakes are locked up? :rolleyes: :flipoff2:

Damn I am bored today!

ABS light? Does that tell you if your doing enough situp's? You Jeep guys sure got lots of lights.

And that , :CHECK ENGINE LIGHT

what a waist,

every time I check, its still there??[:nuke:











i dont think a tow trucks gonna do it.....:nuke:

EDIT: I agree with the Idea of buying a new axle, but Id buy a welder first:idea:

A buddy of mine was having the same sort of problem with his.
If I remember correctly, it was that "whatever you call it plastic ball" on the inner fender? We pulled the vacuum lines from it and spliced it together, bypassing the thing. It worked till he got another one.
I tried talking him into swapping out the whole thing for at least a 44, but he wouldn't listen. :rolleyes:
Friends don't let friends wheel with Dana 30 or 35's. :D

dont spend a fucking penny on that crap vaccum, all you need is a little mecahnical knowledge, i had the exact same prob and all you have to do is pull the cover off that contains that vaccum operated shift fork and pull the c-clips that hold the shaft in, reposition the fork so the collar is enguaged and use the c-clips to hold it there, cost??? :beer: