How do I know that the clutch will work when I put in my 420? Is travel of the slave cylinder fairly standard? I'm using a s10 bellhousing, arm, throwout bearing and pressure plate . CJ clutch disc (right splines). I'd like to use my stock slave cylinder if I can. Any idea how to tell if it'll work? Is there a reference somewhere with travel comparisons?

Paul

I think you need about 1 1/8" travel from the slave to get 5/8" at the clutch fingers, you can measure the arm each way from the pivot to figure out the ratio (i.e. 2:1) I'm pretty sure the 5/8" is correct.
If you know the travel and bore size of the master cyl. and the bore of the slave cyl. you can figure it out...
Figure out the volume of oil the master cyl. is pushing in a full stroke and convert it to the slave cyls. bore.

Originally posted by nasvik
How do I know that the clutch will work when I put in my 420? Is travel of the slave cylinder fairly standard? I'm using a s10 bellhousing, arm, throwout bearing and pressure plate . CJ clutch disc (right splines). I'd like to use my stock slave cylinder if I can. Any idea how to tell if it'll work? Is there a reference somewhere with travel comparisons?

Paul


it seems to be fairly Standard unless you get a aftermarket type

you're stock TJ slave will be fine with the bellhousing it accepts the same type 2 Bolt flange.

you will need to check Clearance's on the Clutch fork on the Ball side it hits the Pressure plate ever so slightly. To fix this remove the washer behind the Ball and try that,,, then if that does not work use a Dremel and take a little at a time off the backside of the bellhousing then trial fit it untill it does not Hit

the crank sensor is pretty fun too I built a sweet Bracket to make them work and it does quit well! let me know if you need more info

you are slow I have one 2 of these already!!:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Adam,

Well that answers that - the TJ slave won't fit on the S10 bellhousing. The studs are off by about 5/8". S'pose I should have checked that.... :rolleyes:

So what do I do? As I see it, my options are as follows:

Use the S10 slave and master (assuming the firewall mount is the same)
Use the S10 slave and figure out a way to connect it to the TJ master - TJ has a 'one piece' system that isn't servicable.
Go to Wilwood parts and use a pull type slave.

Thoughts....? As I see it, they're all about the same price - about $200 by the time I'm done.

Paul

I was again thinking about the dilema of you'e slave.
how about??

convert to aluminum YJ clutch master with adapter to AN -3 with S10 slave it takes 12 mm weird pitch adapter from ( I have the numbers at work ) bubble flare to AN-3 at the Slave and then use 42 inch stainless braided for the line.

the conversions I have done are on a YJ
and we are looking at the TJ soon for another swap

the push pull would be a pain I think???( willwood type)

maybe it would work ?? the S10 master is kinda weird it has 2 lines that come together and I am not familar what it looks like under the dash


Does this Help??

Adam,

It helps, but I think the Wilwood master is the way to go - cheaper than YJ or S10. Weird. :D

I think the pull type slave wouldn't be that hard to rig, and I like it that it's fully adjustable. Nice that I wouldn't have to climb underneath and rip everything out to get the right combination of throwout bearing, clutch fork and slave. Right......?

Paul

Originally posted by nasvik
It helps, but I think the Wilwood master is the way to go - cheaper than YJ or S10. Weird. :D

I think the pull type slave wouldn't be that hard to rig, and I like it that it's fully adjustable. Nice that I wouldn't have to climb underneath and rip everything out to get the right combination of throwout bearing, clutch fork and slave. Right......?

Paul


I put one on my new setup and it works great alot of range to fine tune or adjust. ( so you are right) it would be nice!,,, To have it right the first time!:rasta: Before I used a CJ7 type slave and it seemed like it would not fully dis-engage. "lack of adjustment"


I would drill a hole into the S-10 clutch fork and use the supplied hardware from Willwood (conical type washer)
and add one bracket to the trans for a mount . And good to go!


Are you riping yours down this late in the season??

Adam,

use the slave that matches the bellhousing, anything else would be foolish, the factory already did the figuring on that end.
all you need to do is mount a master and plumb a line