I went to the Bible and the link for converting a 14 Bolt to disks is down. How do you get the drums off? By looking at other parts of the bible I'm thinking it might take some kind of special socket? Any help of links to build would be a huge help:D

Todd

Yea I got that tool. :D

Auto Zone has that tool for a 1/2" drive wrench if you want to pick one up. Looks like this.

http://www.tooldesk.com/images/previewFile/KDT-2467%20_std.jpg

Just make sure which spindle nuts you have because the sockets come in 4 or 6 prongs. :)

Or you can do it the ole redneck way with a screwdriver and hammer but I'm pretty particular to using the right tool for the job. You will need a press or hammer and brass drift to get the lug studs out of the hub.

found a picture of the 6 prong. I remember this being the tool required to pull the spindle nuts.

http://homepage.mac.com/darketernal/.Pictures/SASPics/DSCN6510.jpg

YOU DA MAN ANDY!!! Thanks bro! I pulled the bolts took the shaft out then got a dumb look on my face as I couldn't figure out where to start tearing into it. This will help a lot!!!

Todd

I can get you some pretty good deals on all the replacement parts if you are wanting to replace your bearings in the hubs while you have it tore down.

There will be a key lock in place on the outer spindle nut. Pry the lock washer out and use the socket to remove the outer spindle nut. Then the lock washer comes out. Then the inner spindle nut. After that the hub will almost fall off. Just make sure your toe isn't under it. Those 14 bolt drums are massive!

The drum is pressed onto the hub using all 8 lug studs. Press the studs out and the drum comes off. Your new rotor will press onto the hub in reverse order.

I can get you some pretty good deals on all the replacement parts if you are wanting to replace your bearings in the hubs while you have it tore down.

There will be a key lock in place on the outer spindle nut. Pry the lock washer out and use the socket to remove the outer spindle nut. Then the lock washer comes out. Then the inner spindle nut. After that the hub will almost fall off. Just make sure your toe isn't under it. Those 14 bolt drums are massive!

The drum is pressed onto the hub using all 8 lug studs. Press the studs out and the drum comes off. Your new rotor will press onto the hub in reverse order.

Does the inner spindle nut take anything special to take that off? Thanks again for leting me have at your know how.

Todd

This is a pretty good picture of my discs installed.

http://thedoubleduke.com/pics/Jeep/14boltdiss.jpg

and the spindle that holds all the hardware holding the hub on.

http://thedoubleduke.com/pics/14boltspindle.jpg

my 14 bolt was nasty when I got it.

i just used a hammer and screwdriver it was easy.

Does the inner spindle nut take anything special to take that off? Thanks again for leting me have at your know how.

Todd

The inner spindle nut is exactly the same as the outer spindle nut.

If you have tons and gobs of money laying around you can go with these.

http://www.stage8.com/v2/products_lsnb.html

http://www.pirate4x4.com/webster/stage8/index.php

I want them pretty bad. But there are more pressing items to buy first for my junk.

i just used a hammer and screwdriver it was easy.

I used that method many times. But now I like knowing how much torque I'm putting on them. Preload on bearings can get pretty picky. The huge socket method sucks. It isn't really a "high tolerance" part so most of the time I feel like pulling out the hammer to get it done. :laughing:

Where did you get the tool to get the bearing keeper ring out of there? I got the drum off got my disk brake bracked mounted up. Went out and got all new bearings. Then noticed that both the outer rings of the old bearings races are still in the hub. I think I can get them out with a screwdriver and a hammer once I pull the big keeper ring out that holds the larger bearing in. Took the hub to Tractor Supply and they didn't have anything big enough. Any suggestions? The old ones were still in good shape. I prob. should have just kept them in there if I'd of known I was going to run into this. Do you know how many foot punds to torq those nuts back down to once I have it put all back together? Thanks!
Todd

I'm kinda guessing that you are talking about the big snap rings. Are you talking about the yellow arrow?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/DCP_6347.JPG


Looks like this?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/DCP_6350.JPG

I can get them from Power Drive. We will just have to figure out what your axle came out of or find the specific part numbers and they can usually get them. I have a set of large snap ring pliers I use to take those apart. I use the snap ring pliers to open them up then a screw driver to pry it out. I had to buy a special set for installing my front drive slugs.


EDIT: All the torque specs are in the bible. Although I've never really paid close attention to it. The bearings and shafts all go back in by feel. :)

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/index.html

Tue dat. It was the snap ring that gave me a hard time. I only wish mine were shaped like yours was. I took it down to power drive on my way into work today and they took it out for Free:D Picked up all new bearings yesterday and I'll get to puting it all back together in the next day or so. I'll snap a pic of the snap ring that was in mine and then you will be able to see why I couldn't get it out. Thanks for the help!!

Todd

I have an account at power drive so I get parts there quite a bit cheaper. Let me know if you need anything else from there if you aren't already set up. :)

When I bought it one side was already on there:D
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0895.jpg
started un bolting
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0897.jpg
Pulled the shaft
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0900.jpg
looked like this and this is when I decided I didn't have the right tool and turned to andy the pro.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0901.jpg
Who sent me after one of these
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0903.jpg
Put it to work
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0904.jpg

I don't know what you call this part but it was jacked
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0905.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0906.jpg
Picked up a new one today and power drive. Didn't take a pic of it (Picture not needed)
Last washer
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0907.jpg
My brother in law and I took turns for 15 min. beating on the fucking drum to get it off:flipoff2:
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0909.jpg
Finaly geting somewhere
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0908.jpg

If you don't own one of these run out and buy one. It's a cheap ass elec. impact from harbor freight. It gets stuff off that my air impacts can't. Best 39$ I ever spent
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0910.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0911.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0912.jpg
Mounted up disk brake holder
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0913.jpg
Started knocking out the old lugs. That was much easier that I thought it would be
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0915.jpg
This is when I had to take the hub into and have that snap ring taken out.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0916.jpg
Came home and knocked out the races. Do I have to press the races in on the new ones? Or can you just tap around the edges until they go in?

Lookin good Todd. Lemme know when your ready to go wheelin!

Do I have to press the races in on the new ones? Or can you just tap around the edges until they go in?

Mine just tapped into place. I use a brass drift so I make sure I don't knick the edges of the race surface. Any minor imperfections in the race or bearing will cause big heart ache down the line. I always use some good moly lube on my bearings before install as well.

Lookin good Todd. Lemme know when your ready to go wheelin!
Will do:grinpimp: If I could get these pricks that I have bought stuff off of on here (cough) venders:flipoff2: to start mailing my stuff out I would be further along. I'll look ya up when I get this dude ready for the trail.

Mine just tapped into place. I use a brass drift so I make sure I don't knick the edges of the race surface. Any minor imperfections in the race or bearing will cause big heart ache down the line. I always use some good moly lube on my bearings before install as well.
Thanks again Andy:beer:

A brass drift will work. If you don't have one like me, I used my old race, turned it upsidedown, placed some 7/16 flat strap across it and tapped it down evenly. Turn the hub ober and use a long flathead screwdriver to tap out the old race if it gets stuck in the hub.

Figured I may as will post the pics that show the back side of this (puting it all back together). Might help the next guy.

After geting the snap ring out it was time to take the old races out. I ended up useing a large extension. Worked great.
Packed the bearings and used the old race to tap the new ones in. That worked great:D
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0960.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0962.jpg
A few of the tools I had to use
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0961.jpg
Time to mount the rotor. Used a hammer at first then went to the impact with the lugs to pull them all the way through.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0966.jpg

Pulling the studs all the way through
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0968.jpg
Time to slap it back together
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0970.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0971.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0972.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0973.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0974.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0975.jpg
Time to slap the shaft back in there
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0978.jpg

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0979.jpg
Time for the rotor. You will notice that the pad on the right is upside down. It was just a poser shot.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0980.jpg
Had to do a little grinding on the holder to get it to fit
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0981.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0982.jpg
All Done:flipoff2:
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14%20Bolt%20rebuild/DSCN0985.jpg

now pull it all back apart and paint those calipers. :flipoff2:

I can't exactly tell but it looks like when you rotate the housing around where it is supposed to be that your bleeder screws will be below the supply line. Which won't let the air escape. Or am I just seeing things??

now pull it all back apart and paint those calipers. :flipoff2:

I can't exactly tell but it looks like when you rotate the housing around where it is supposed to be that your bleeder screws will be below the supply line. Which won't let the air escape. Or am I just seeing things??


The paint deal has me pissed. I want to paint that bitch so bad but I know I have to keep it bare until I get my perches etc welded on. Thats when it will all get taken back appart again and painted up. I have a BTF rear truss that I haven't messed with yet either. It will be geting painted as well.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14b%20truss%20BTF/BTFTruss.jpg

As for the brakes..........Shit I don't know. I'm no brake god. I'll have to get my brother in law back over to take a look at that. But that was what came with the kit. You would THINK it would be the right stuff:shaking:

The paint deal has me pissed. I want to paint that bitch so bad but I know I have to keep it bare until I get my perches etc welded on. Thats when it will all get taken back appart again and painted up. I have a BTF rear truss that I haven't messed with yet either. It will be geting painted as well.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/14b%20truss%20BTF/BTFTruss.jpg

As for the brakes..........Shit I don't know. I'm no brake god. I'll have to get my brother in law back over to take a look at that. But that was what came with the kit. You would THINK it would be the right stuff:shaking:

I can see it better in that picture and it looks to me like the bleeder screws are below the supply line. It should be the other way around so air doesn't get trapped in the system. The bleeder screw should be the highest point. Looks like an easy swap though. You will just have to swap calipers side to side and they should be right. I'm not sure if those brackets allow you to swap calipers without moving the brackets.

I can see it better in that picture and it looks to me like the bleeder screws are below the supply line. It should be the other way around so air doesn't get trapped in the system. The bleeder screw should be the highest point. Looks like an easy swap though. You will just have to swap calipers side to side and they should be right. I'm not sure if those brackets allow you to swap calipers without moving the brackets.

Thanks for the heads up:D When I bought the axle one side already had the swap done to it and he gave me most of everything for the other side. rotor, calaper, pads and bracket. I just went and bought different bearings. If he put the one side on backwards then when I did the other it would have been backwards too. I'll have to see about swaping them. Good eye:grinpimp:

I found a pretty good picture of the way it should be. You can see the bleeder screw is above the banjo bolt and that is what lets air out of the system.

http://thedoubleduke.com/pics/Jeep/14bolttopplate.jpg

I went to Auto Zone to get the banjo bolt and went to Smileys on West Pawnee for everything else. They have the proper sized banjos with the -4 or -3 fittings. Then I ran a section of SS braided line out from there. They had all that stuff as well. But get ready to bend over cause that shat is expensive. :eek:

Todd

I probably mounted the first side upside, sorry.

But look, it gives you a reason to pull the calipers for paint now:flipoff2: