How to strap rig to trailer?

[MattS]

After reading the chain vs strap thread I was wondering how everyone ties down their rigs. I have always gone over the axles. Anyone use a frame mount to compress the suspension? Is there a right or a wrong way?

[That Mick]

I go over the axle. It seems to me that causes less strain on the suspension, and nothing I've trailered has been extremly flexy.

OTOH, If I did have a really flexy rig on the trailer, I'd probably go to the frame and compress the suspension. The last thing I need is to have 4,000 lbs of steel be-bopping around behind me.

[smurfsdad]

I do both. Chain the axles and one strap lightly over the radius arms to keep it from swaying.

[Tx4x4Fun]

I always strap it to the suspension. Let the body bounce with the flow...

When I had my Hummer, you could find many "hardpoints", for lack of a better word, where the military straps them to skids or any other form of transportation. All of the hardpoints were on the frame. So the Mil compresses the suspension, just in case anyone has ever wondered...

I looked around my site for pictures of the aforementioned hardpoints but couldn't find any. :flipoff2:

[AzWebMan]

My plan is to chain the axles -- chain the rear axle solid and a kind of safety chain on the front axle, not real tight but secure. And then to use two ratchet straps (10,000lb each) to each corner of the front bumper.

I figure this way if the straps break, the chains should hold it until I can get stopped.

Maybe I'm just paranoid :flipoff2: since I've never towed my rig before....

[TODDK]

I strap to my frame two in rear two in front.
if I stap the right side of the frame i go to the left of the trailer..
hope this helps

[RustoleumWhite]

No "towing master", but 4-straps to the axles.


The fronts get crossed, and the rear strait. Even with my (becoming more) flexy, and HEAVY ASS Scout.. I never once felt uncomfortable.

If I had a light and super flexy buggy.. I may be tempted to go to the frame and compress it....


FYI, I cross the front straps to limit the posibillity of the rig sliding sideways on the trailer. Depending on where your tie-down points are, with stait straps a rig *can* slid side to side...

[kickinasphalt383]

i always do both: one from the rear axle to the front of the trailer, one from the front axle to the rear of the trailer, then one on the front shackles and one on the rear shackles to compress the suspension. holds the truck down real good

[camo]

in the front i use one rachet strap to the axle and one chain ( no binder ) to the axle. in the back i use two rachet straps to the axles. i also keep the rig in low low since i have no parking brake.

[85 rocrnr]

two straps to each axel snug up winch to front of trailer

[TEX]

Tried it both ways, prefer over the axle & preferably with chains.

TEX

[KYcrawler]

i haul 2 at a time on a gooseneck trailer i go to the axles on each 2 straps in front and 2 in the rear of each then i run a log chain around the axle to a tie down point on the trailer and leaving it slightly lose i snap a d ring or carabiner on it so it cant come unhooked that way there are 4 straps and 2 chains holding each rig if you think it is overkill just consider how much time and $$$$ you have dropped into the rig you are towing

[rockmutt]

cross bind them!! go around the axle tube where the spring attaches, then to some D-rings, the Jeep cant go forward, backward, sideways, bind them down hard enough to get a good footprind, its the only way to go:flipoff2:

[flexlarson]

Hello Matt How are ya ?
I personally take a chain and run it over the front axle and strap to the front of the trailer. I then back the truck up to pick up the slack. Then I do the same for the back but running the chain over the third member and to the back of the trailer and use a chain binder to hold it down.

I have had no problems (knock on wood)
I just towed a 79 scout II on 33s from KC to SD that way with no problems.

I personally trust chains more than straps for this application.

[jonscj7]

I don't tie mine at all!!

It fits so nice over the fenders it can't go far!

Since I do tie it sometimes i chain the rear axle then pull the chain tight to where a axles might snap then I tie the frame in the front with a chain and binder, towed it thousands of miles this way without a problem with speed excess of 90mph.

Jon

[tsm1mt]

Originally posted by The Mick
I go over the axle. It seems to me that causes less strain on the suspension, and nothing I've trailered has been extremly flexy.

OTOH, If I did have a really flexy rig on the trailer, I'd probably go to the frame and compress the suspension. The last thing I need is to have 4,000 lbs of steel be-bopping around behind me.

ONCE I hooked my springs/shackles to the trailer.. The Mick was on that trip when I cheated death.

Rig was too flexy (among too many other problems) and flexed itself right off the trailer..

So.. I hook a chain around the front axle, between the spring and knuckle, making a big loose "loop".. which I then hook a load binder (one per side) to, and secure to the front/center of the trailer deck.

In the rear, a chain goes from one corner of the trailer OVER the axle, under the diff, OVER the axle, then a load binder down to the other corner.

So the front is pulled forward an in, rear is pulled rear and out.

No problems this way. Even with the flexy rig moving around.. I haven't noticed any problems.

But then, I use an IH to tow with.. 4dr long-box tonner.. which weighs in at 6,000lbs empty.. it doesn't seem to care what I do with the rig on the trailer. :D

[Rudezuk]

So far ive just used 2 ratchet straps per axle...and then bump up the 9000's all the way...(tried it all the way down, and it got kind of scary)

But im thinking of sticking some D rings on the bumpers and strapping to those??

[YELLER BLAZER]

I ALWAYS USE 2 10,000# STRAPS CROSSED OR ANGLED, OR 2 GRADE 70 CHAINS PER AXLE (I PULL ON MULTIPLE TRAILERS) MY BLAZER WAYS IN AT 7000#'S AND IT HAS NEVER SO MUCH AS FLINCHED, AND THIS IS OVER KILL ANY ONE OF THESE TIE DOWNS BY IT'S SELF, PER AXLE, IS ENOUGH TO SECURE THE VEHICLE TO THE TRAILER.

[GhettoRig]

Here's a vote for both. For very short pulls (<50 miles) I'll just strap down the axles, but for long pulls, or if I'm gonna be driving on especially curvy roads, I strap down the axles, then strap down the frame, to take the sway out of the suspension, then I go back and tighten the straps on the axles, cuz they loosen up a bit when the suspension is compressed.

[Insayn]

I just ratchet strap to the axles, 2 on each end. I tried the frame method once, hit a few bumps and it broke loose by popping the binder open. I would imagine allowing the suspension to flex relieves some stress on the trailers suspension acting as one big spring.

[CrazyCraig]

I think that trying to compress the suspension is not a good iea, you would have to compress the suspension to the bump stops and in doing so you are creating a lot of tension, just waiting to break free. If it does break free look out. Car carriers do compress the suspension, put I have seen some tie-downs ripped out of cars. I would tie the axles down tight and the vehicle isn't going to move, unless the tie down slips or breaks.


Craig

[dog walker]

All's I do is use one ratchet strap in the center of each axle. If it's a real trip I might pull the winch out and hook it to the front of the trailer too.

As for the comment about pulling over 90mph, thats probably not the smartest thing a man could do!

Jeff

[offroadr35]

Originally posted by dog walker
All's I do is use one ratchet strap in the center of each axle. If it's a real trip I might pull the winch out and hook it to the front of the trailer too.

As for the comment about pulling over 90mph, thats probably not the smartest thing a man could do!

Jeff

i use one on each axle too and haven't had a problem. Scott@Rockstomper also does it the same way and hasn't had a problem.

-Steve

[BillaVista]

btt

[woody]

two chains on the front around the knuckles, not crossed....single rear strap around the axle, center located. Never one problem.

[Devil Dog]

one grade 70 chain in the rear.. and one 15K lb strap in the front.. both to the axles..
then snug the winch to front of trailer.. to take out some of the flex...

[RE:Todd]

I have a double chain to the track bar mount on the rear axle, pull it forward to tension the chain. Winch the front down. Then two straps crossed from the front axle, and two straps from the receiver in the rear. Axle mounts keep it still and winch/rear bumper keeps it from bouncing.

[kwrangln]

I'm copyin my reply to the other poll, its lesson learned, so I think everyone could use it. Flaming is encouraged, if you think its warranted.

Just watch your ass with chain binders. When I delivered lumber, one of the yard monkeys was doing me a favor by binding the load together and the cheater pipe slipped off the binder. Handle of the binder caught him right above his left eye, fractured orbital and it lifted him a few feet off the ground, he landed on his ass a few feet away out cold. If you do use chain binders, always zip tie the handle so that it cant just be lifted open. Always put the binder (or ratchet of the ratchetstrap for that matter) on the passenger side so your not standing in traffic to check your load. Always face the handle of the binder toward the rear of the trailer so it wont snag brush etc and be forced open. Winches should not be used to secure the vehicle, they have a real small brake to be trusting. Secure the axles, not the frame, unless you snug the suspension to the bumpstops then there will be movement of the suspension when you drive over bumps, this will slack and tighted your straps/chains every time you go over a bump. OK, thats all for now.


For what its worth.

[wild1]

I use two chains over the axles.

"jonscj7 I don't tie mine at all!!

It fits so nice over the fenders it can't go far!

Since I do tie it sometimes i chain the rear axle then pull the chain tight to where a axles might snap then I tie the frame in the front with a chain and binder, towed it thousands of miles this way without a problem with speed excess of 90mph.

Jon "<<<<< And fawk I hope you are joking about not tieing your rig down assclown.

[jaluhn]

What I do depends on the rig and the trailer, but we'd typically hook into the frame, and cross at least on end. I've even done one chain off each corner before. Never had a problem with anything moving, even when I jackinfed a trailer with a 10k truck on it. I can see where it might harm the suspension, though I've never had any problems. We also haul alot of tractors and equiptemnt, so we just chain into anything that's strong enough.
~John

[mr4x42u]

I go over the rear axle with a chain,,and strap the front suspension down..never had a problem and keeps the truck from swaying on the trailor.....

[Toyman]

One thing to think about, it's not just about towing the rig down the road.

What happens to the rig if you get in an accident? Will your rig come forward and flatten you and your tow rig?

Anybody else worry about this? Like what happens if you go off the road and hit a culvert or bridge abutment? Head on collision? I wonder how much it would take to keep the rig on the trailer in something like that.

[mda]

Just presented this question to 7 transportation drivers at our auto auction today.

All seven said chains over the axles. Two added ratchet straps as a safety.

[tsm1mt]

Originally posted by Toyman
One thing to think about, it's not just about towing the rig down the road.

What happens to the rig if you get in an accident? Will your rig come forward and flatten you and your tow rig?

Anybody else worry about this? Like what happens if you go off the road and hit a culvert or bridge abutment? Head on collision? I wonder how much it would take to keep the rig on the trailer in something like that.

There was a Tuff Truck racer killed in Colorado a couple years back.. everyone in the tow-rig (ex-cab) but one died when the driver nodded off or something, put the truck in the ditch, and the racer jumped off the trailer and into the cab of the tow-rig.

Yeah, I think about it.

[Keith Strong]

I always do the axles. If the rig is SUPER flexy I might compress the suspension as well, but that all the more reason to do the axles. Early in my towing days i did the compressed susspension, and upon arrival somewhere would have at least one strap that had popped off because no matter how hard I try I couldnt get ALL the flex out of it.

[TXLUGNUT]

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
a rig *can* slid side to side...

Yes, they can........Mine slid off onto the rear of the fender well and crushed it against my tire.........I have to blame it on being a mudfest on my trailer and the rear anchor not being tight enough, or I just took that damn right turn tooooo fast!;)

[MattS]

Originally posted by Toyman
What happens to the rig if you get in an accident? Will your rig come forward and flatten you and your tow rig?

Anybody else worry about this? Like what happens if you go off the road and hit a culvert or bridge abutment? Head on collision? I wonder how much it would take to keep the rig on the trailer in something like that.

Another nice thing about a gooseneck. :D

I use Grade 70 3/8 (WLL 6,600) TRANSPORT/BINDING CHAINS.
http://www.pirate4x4.net/mstevens/uploads/bulk_c2.jpg
With 3/8 (WLL 9200) 33000 breaking strength ratcheting load binders.
http://www.pirate4x4.net/mstevens/uploads/ratchet.jpg

So I have 13,200 pounds of WORKING load limit holding down each truck. And 66,000 pounds of breaking strength. Yes they could fail but it's going to be one hell of a mess. I have close to $300 into the chains and binders but I don't worry at all about them breaking. :D I have used straps and they just fray and need replacing too often for the hauling of sharp objects that most of us do. IMHO

[KS Toy]

While we are on the subject of tie downs....How do you or what do you use to hook the, strap, chain etc. to? I use the front of the trailer (for the front straps) and put some D-ring type tie downs on the back. Like these only they lay flush in a tray and with grade 8 bolts. They are rated for 11,000# each.

[MattS]

Originally posted by Blue 84
While we are on the subject of tie downs....How do you or what do you use to hook the, strap, chain etc. to? I use the front of the trailer (for the front straps) and put some D-ring type tie downs on the back. Like these only they lay flush in a tray.

I use the pockets on the sides of my trailer. I feed the chain through the hole and then drop the hook on the top edge. Gravity keep the hook there till I can get the binder on. I do both sides this way and the excess chain is left in the middle. This is how my neighbor who works for a transport/crane company showed me.

http://pirate4x4.net/mstevens/trailer/6.jpg

[KS Toy]

Matt, that sounds like a good idea and no doubt strong and secure. The reason I put in the D rings was so I had something that was centered more and did not pull to the side so much. Hell I guess that wouldn't really hurt if it did. Also I have seen them on other car trailers. I am guessing that you put the chains back far enough that they do not hit the tires? I will be trying that next time. I never really felt safe with 4 bolts holding my Toy "back" Thanks for sharing.

[MattS]

Originally posted by Blue 84
Matt, that sounds like a good idea and no doubt strong and secure. The reason I put in the D rings was so I had something that was centered more and did not pull to the side so much. Hell I guess that wouldn't really hurt if it did. Also I have seen them on other car trailers. I am guessing that you put the chains back far enough that they do not hit the tires? I will be trying that next time. I never really felt safe with 4 bolts holding my Toy "back" Thanks for sharing.

The only way my neighbor would allow me to run the D-rings on the deck was to do some serious cross structure under the trailer and I just didn't want to mess with it. The side holes like in the pic are every 2 feet down the trailer. I pick the 2 just behind the tires. Loop over the pumpkin and back (or forward) under the axle. The chains catch on the webbing of the center section and don't allow side to side movement. I have never had anything shift side to side and I have taken a clover leaf onramp smoking the trailer tires by accident! :eek:

[sceep]

i tie mine like this. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=1419246

notice the chain in the back going across the tire. not good. but it has worked for thousands of miles.

when on the gooseneck there is enough trailer to get back far enough with the chain to not touch the tire.

[Wellsy]

Originally posted by Toyman
One thing to think about, it's not just about towing the rig down the road.

What happens to the rig if you get in an accident? Will your rig come forward and flatten you and your tow rig?

Anybody else worry about this? Like what happens if you go off the road and hit a culvert or bridge abutment? Head on collision? I wonder how much it would take to keep the rig on the trailer in something like that.

I have recently been through just such an event. Bad highway, 30+ vehicles involved including my 2002 Dodge 2500, and my '93 Toy. Trailer jackknived, hitch broke, and trailer/4x4 ran into side of my Dodge.

I was only running one chain per axle, binded. Truck barely moved, was enough that the front end shifted and one tire came off trailer though. I will change my procedure for the future. And if you wonder if the crash was hard, the frames on both the toyota and the dodge has been bent. So it hit hard...

Here are a couple pics..

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid51/p70b49085b22ee5bc6a848bad18c58007/fca0f8c5.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid51/pabf9c54a6d8d589a79bab2531844f02b/fca0f8ad.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid51/p647a8bbabf690bad454891df74e0baa6/fca0f875.jpg

Been 2 months since the accident, and hopefully I will get one of my trucks back next week...

Later All

[MattS]

Originally posted by Canuckbuzz
I have recently been through just such an event. Bad highway, 30+ vehicles involved including my 2002 Dodge 2500, and my '93 Toy. Trailer jackknived, hitch broke, and trailer/4x4 ran into side of my Dodge.
Later All



DAMN!!! :eek: :eek: :eek: I feel good about using chains even more now. :)

[70~K5]

It looks like your ball mount broke, but what happened to your safety chains?

[Wellsy]

The ends on the safety chains bent straight... They had those 'S' hook kind of ends on them. They must not of been very strong.

I'm already have new safety chains with better ends on them...

[70~K5]

Properly setup your safety chains or cables should cross under the ball mount and make a "cradle" so if it does break it'll suport the tounge of the trailer and not allow it to drag on the ground.

[Wellsy]

Originally posted by 70~K5
Properly setup your safety chains or cables should cross under the ball mount and make a "cradle" so if it does break it'll suport the tounge of the trailer and not allow it to drag on the ground.

I agree with you, in theory, if the ball mount broke, or the trailer came off the ball, it should be caught with the safety chains, and then your breakaway box should kick in and apply the brakes on the trailer..

But how often does the ball hitch break off when going straight?? I think most breaks would happen when the trailer jackknives, and then having a cradle underneath will not due too much.. The twist on mine was so bad, that the cable from the break away box, broke on the hitch side, the pin for the breakaway box never even came out...

[sceep]

Originally posted by 70~K5
Properly setup your safety chains or cables should cross under the ball mount and make a "cradle" so if it does break it'll suport the tounge of the trailer and not allow it to drag on the ground.

wow... i've never heard that before. great idea. all will be from now on.. thanks. :D

[70~K5]

Originally posted by Canuckbuzz


I agree with you, in theory, if the ball mount broke, or the trailer came off the ball, it should be caught with the safety chains, and then your breakaway box should kick in and apply the brakes on the trailer..

But how often does the ball hitch break off when going straight?? I think most breaks would happen when the trailer jackknives, and then having a cradle underneath will not due too much.. The twist on mine was so bad, that the cable from the break away box, broke on the hitch side, the pin for the breakaway box never even came out...

There's another thing too, The cable to your breakaway box should be attached higher than the rest of the hitch so it won't get fouled by it. For safety cable I prefer to use 5/8"s cable over chain and run them through a heavy duty loop under and just behind the hitch With only enough slack to allow a full turn. If your hitch comes off the ball the hitch shouldn't drop more than hafl the distance to the ground.

On 5th wheel hitches, how many of you go under the truck and check the engagement of the hitch to the pin. I've seen improperly hitched trailers bounce out the hitch sometimes as much as 300 miles latter. If you physicly check the hitch with a flashlight you'd see that the hitch was completely locked on the pin.

I've laid one trailer over in 25 years of driving and that was 24 years ago. Hauling 8" concrete pipe going around a corner at 5mph the dunage(wood) between the pipe fell apart and let the load shift off the side. It was determed that the dunage had termites in it and wasn't my fault. That was the pull trailer in a doubles set and the hitch broke but the safety cable held and when the air lines popped off the maxi's locked up.

[Hanr3]

Any new info to add?
More stories would be helpful as well as pics.

[CWBYinJEEP]

used to strap to the axles, but was eating up BDS springs left and right. Change my suspension set up to RE springs and started chaining straight to the frame in the rear with T hooks and cross strapping to the front bumper with ratchet straps, figuring that brakes and impact need ultimate strength and safety and the ratchet straps up front help ensure tension. I think most of the reason I dont use the axles any more is because I have a shackle reversal and consequently distorting the suspension when strapped to the axles. Now that I tie directly to frame the rig tows much better and much more stable and a tie wrap around the binders ensures they dont pop loose, but with 2 at each end, you can afford to loose one and still be "safe". After 2 years of compressing the suspension I have noticed no ill effects and better stability while towing. If I had a linked, coil sprung rig I would probably chain to the axles and throw a ratchet strap front and rear to keep the rig's suspension from bobbing.

[SlamChops]

i go around my front/rear crossmembers and tighten it up just enough to make the truck squat. the front i just get snug, then the rear i get down on.

[Po' riggity]

Once I get my trailer done, I'll loop arond the axles, front and rear, cross the straps, and ratchet the jeep down that way. My rig isn't flexy enough to need the suspension compressed.
Scott

[edubreuil]

chain over the front axle with a binder, chain over the rear axle with a ratchet binder.
whatever you use, you should check them at each stop.

[DutchTJ]

the way I've been towing is with towstraps over the axles (2 front and 2 rear)

[SanDiegoCJ]

I use axle ratchet straps front and rear. 2 front, 4 rear.

http://www.rallylights.com/M&R/M&R_Images/83350-45-46.jpg

[SolidAxleDurango]

I use axle ratchet straps front and rear. 2 front, 4 rear.

http://www.rallylights.com/M&R/M&R_Images/83350-45-46.jpg

Ditto. With very similar product. 2 front / 2 rear.

[JamisonWorkshop]

Those are nice. I wish I would have gotten the double ratchet set though instead of the non adjustables. Can only go so far forward with them. Very nice straps though.
No fraying out these things.

I think winching the front down also makes a big difference with the sway. recommend it if you got it.

[rock-rod]

I run straps over the axles- two front and two rear.

I used to strap to the frame and suck it down to compress the suspension, but I have found the trailer/truck rides better if the jeep is free to move a little with the bumps. The straps keep the jeep from rolling, and also compress the tires down pretty good, but the susp is free to move. I also crank the RS9000 up to max to control body sway.

[reddman]

When I had my Hummer, you could find many "hardpoints", for lack of a better word, where the military straps them to skids or any other form of transportation. All of the hardpoints were on the frame. So the Mil compresses the suspension, just in case anyone has ever wondered...
on an old all original mutt (m151) i did some work on, it had loops in the center of each wheel, there were also d-rings on the bumpers etc, but it looked to me as if they were more for extraction purposes, while the wheel flange loops were for transport tie down.

[dragoonranch]

The worse thing you can do is buy cheap straps or chains (wal-mart special). If you do it with junk thats gonna break, it doesn't matter where or how you strap it down. I have hauled heavy equipment for years, and the only way to go is with good chain and binder. Granted the straps take up much less room, don't rust out (but thats just because you have to replace them when they frey out), and are much lighter. The chain on the other hand, has very little strech to it when binding down and takes much less force to get it right. I put a 40" cheater pipe on mine when binding, so just how much force can you really put on a strap with a handle that is only 6" or 8" long. I use two chains at each axle. I put one chain on the drivers side of the pumpkin so it cinches up (like a semi-slip knot) and run it to the passengers side of the trailer. I do the opposite to the other side of the pumpkin, which crosses the chains. This should make sense, but you are in effect anti-flexing the load by crossing the chains (this does not mean taking the flex out of the suspension) and adding longitude and lateral support (forward and sideways support). I repeat this setup on the rear axle. This method also keeps the chain away from your suspension points (springs, shocks, and steering assemblys. If you have a super flexy rig, you could always use a strap to pull the frame to the axles. Proper tire pressure in the rig is something to look at while towing also. If you have a tire leaking, it will allow the chain or strap to become slack. Low tires will also bounce some, so even if you do strap to the axles, they will have minor slack.

I noticed some one mentioned the tie-down points the military uses. The military has come up with many great designs over the years, but they have had their downsides too. Remember that the military does things so that even the biggest idiot can figure it out. They put big stickers that say tie-down here in big bold black letters. They also need these things for quick load ups. They don't have the time for people to take their time and properly securing loads when they have to get a division worth of troops and machinery to the other side of the globe. I have seen 70 tonn (140,000 lbs)tanks roll onto base here with just 4 chains holding them down. Do you think that those chains or binders are rated at 17 tonns (34,000 lbs.) a piece. No way. Besides, I belive in the old rule of thumb, "your chains and binder shoudl be rated at or near double your load. For you buggy, jeep, and toy jockeys, that shouldn't be to hard. But I pay close attention with my chevy. I am sorry if this got too long, but it was just my $0.02 worth.

[masterbeavis]

What scares me about some of the methods described here is that you have more straps/chain holding the front down instead of the rear. I would rather have 2 straps in the rear and a piece of 3/16" twine in the front, if you have to stop, the straps/chains in the rear are gunna keep what you are towing from making contact with the tow rig. (no I am NOT saying I'd EVER use twine, but I think you should have more straps in the rear instead of the front.)

I have used both straps and chains, straps are easier, but the chains I have never had let go. I towed my blazer about 400 miles with straps, checked the load after the first 15 miles or so, everything was good. Got home 385 miles later, found the rear straps were laying on the deck!! With chains my buddy showed me to take the chain, go from one corner of the trailer, wrap the axle, go to the other corner, take the slack end of the chain, hook it to the first part of the chain closest to the axle (from the first corner) does this make any sense? I do the same for the front, plus use a comealong to ensure things are tight before I cinch down the binders.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a315/Masterbeavis/tiedownillustration.jpg

Is this a good way of doing it?

[landcru]

I would not use a chain like that. The problem is if either end comes
loose or the chain brakes at any point, you have lost the entire
tie down.
I prefer to use 4 axle type ratchet straps for light vehicles. Heavy vehicles
I use grade 70 rated transport chain with the best quaility binders
money can buy. I do not use binders or straps made in China.
Lever type or ratchet binders depending on the situation.

Here is what the Code of Federal regulations specify:

Sec. 393.128 What are the rules for securing automobiles, light trucks
and vans?
(a) Applicability. The rules in this section apply to the
transportation of
automobiles, light trucks, and vans which individually weigh 4,536 kg.
(10,000 lb) or less. Vehicles which individually are heavier than 4,536
kg (10,000 lb) must be secured in accordance with the provisions of
Sec. 393.130 of this part.
(b) Securement of automobiles, light trucks, and vans.
(1) Automobiles, light trucks, and vans must be restrained at both
the front and rear to prevent lateral, forward, rearward, and vertical
movement using a minimum of two tiedowns.
(2) Tiedowns that are designed to be affixed to the structure of the
automobile, light truck, or van must use the mounting points on those
vehicles that have been specifically designed for that purpose.
(3) Tiedowns that are designed to fit over or around the wheels of
an automobile, light truck, or van must provide restraint in the
lateral, longitudinal and vertical directions.
(4) Edge protectors are not required for synthetic webbing at points
where the webbing comes in contact with the tires.


The regulations are pretty wide reaching. The best way to tie down your
vehicle comes from using common sense, experiance and watching what
works for other truckers.
My highest suggestion is to always use the best quality straps or binders
you can buy. Saving a few bucks on cheap equipment will not feel all that
great when your load comes off the trailer and kills an innocent bystander.

[landcru]

6000 lbs humvee. 4 axle straps secured to the suspension
arms. Chain end dropped through the pocket and hooked on
the top edge. (hook will not bounce off is strap comes loose).

http://owens-export.com/loads/pict1040.jpg

[landcru]

20,000+ lbs M548 tractor, total of 5 securements.
Notice 3 seperate chains on rear. Two crossed, one hooked in V shape to rear hitch of tractor. USE EVERY TIE DOWN YOU HAVE!!!

http://owens-export.com/loads/pict1392.jpg

[lilox]

back in the fifties and sixties the railroad company used to strap down the new vehicles by the body mounts and not the suspension, it used to flatten the bearings so you'd drive down the road and feel the car going, "flop flop flop flop" as those bearings were turning over and hitting their flat spots. Not sure if the new bearing will do that but i have always strapped the suspension like my dad taught me to and i have never had a problem with the vehicle moving or hurting the suspension!

[Paul Gagnon]

back in the fifties and sixties the railroad company used to strap down the new vehicles by the body mounts and not the suspension, it used to flatten the bearings so you'd drive down the road and feel the car going, "flop flop flop flop" as those bearings were turning over and hitting their flat spots. Not sure if the new bearing will do that but i have always strapped the suspension like my dad taught me to and i have never had a problem with the vehicle moving or hurting the suspension!

Vehicles shipped on trains are tied to the frame (or subframe on unibodies). The vehicle ends of the tie downs are specially shaped to fit into slots that the vehicle manufacturer puts in the frame specifically for that purpose. If you doubt that take a look under your vehicle and you will see an oval or slot shaped opening on each corner of the frame.

[Shagnaz2]

I usually strap the axles, but I did have to strap my K5 down b/c it was swaying around from the big rigs on the hi-way.
I think it all depends on the rigs suspension.

[pitjeep]

whats the best way to secure saftey chains to the tounge of trailer? most i see use bolts & neither the bolts or most chains look like they would hold the weight.weld them or some type of add a link be ok?

[4x4not]

My safety chains are welded to the tongue...

[Albin]

My 3/8 safety chains are welded to either side of the tongue.

As far as strapping down my Toy: I use two 3/8" grade 70 transport chain with 2 3/8" racheting binders in the rear, one 3/8" G70 chain and one rachet strap in the front and then two rachet straps on the side to pull the body down and back. The two side rachet straps are cinched down enough to limit body roll and bouncing and that's about it. Pic below shows the arrangement.

ETA: Yes, I did tighten up that loose chain in the back after this pic was taken. :)

[StockChevy]

whats the best way to secure saftey chains to the tounge of trailer? most i see use bolts & neither the bolts or most chains look like they would hold the weight.weld them or some type of add a link be ok?


Weld them on

[Rockhales]

Vehicles shipped on trains are tied to the frame (or subframe on unibodies). The vehicle ends of the tie downs are specially shaped to fit into slots that the vehicle manufacturer puts in the frame specifically for that purpose. If you doubt that take a look under your vehicle and you will see an oval or slot shaped opening on each corner of the frame.http://www.awdirect.com/finditem.cfm?itemid=9253

[Travis Waldher]

Well, my trail rig is built with about 4" of compression in teh front end, about 6" in the back.

I tie to the frame with 10,000lb (3,333 working load) straps and cross them on to the D-rings on the trailer. Tighten until I hit the bumpstops.

4 straps = ~13,300lbs of holding force and my rig only weighs in at 5,000lbs.

Safety chains on the trailer are high test 3/8 chain. (5,400lb working load) with the appropriate safety clipped hook on the end.

[FreakAccident]

I strap to the axles with chains and binders. Works great and only takes a couple minutes to hookup. I won't ever use straps because chains and binders are so easy to use. Straps can get frayed, bound up in the ratchet, loosen when wet, etc. Chains and binders just flat out work and don't wear out. To each his own I suppose.

EDIT - I also zip tie the binder handle down just in case.

[Travis Waldher]

So I have 13,200 pounds of WORKING load limit holding down each truck. And 66,000 pounds of breaking strength. Yes they could fail but it's going to be one hell of a mess. I have close to $300 into the chains and binders but I don't worry at all about them breaking. :D I have used straps and they just fray and need replacing too often for the hauling of sharp objects that most of us do. IMHO

Of course, all of that is only as good as what you are tying down to on the trailer.

[Maintain]

I've been runnin tow trucks and when transporting vehicles on a flatbed we hook 2 chains to the front of the frame (pulled up by winch) and once there are about 6 inches left to go, put 2 more in the rear of the frame and then tighten down. Car doesn't move.

I hook to the frame :D

[Paul Gagnon]

http://www.awdirect.com/finditem.cfm?itemid=9253

Cool, I didn't know they were so cheap. :cool2:

[vanguard_anon]

I don't pretend to be a towing expert but I did make one good decision. I consulted friend of mine on what to buy and how to strap my rig down. My friend hauled heavy equipment for a living and has a lot of towing experience.

This is what he came up with. We used two chains and made them act like four. We tie the rig down at the suspension links and ratchet it tight. Here's a pic.

(I should note, I'm getting real trailer tires asap)

http://www.just4fun.org/images/buggy/Buggy%20detail%209-9-2006/images/dcp_3740.jpg

[dennhop]

One thing I've always done with trailering, if I'm using a single chain in the rear, I'll get the vehicle close to where I want it, hook my chain up so there's a little slack, and then either drive it or winch it forward, so that all the slack is taken off of the chain. Then, when you set the brake, get out, you can ratchet strap the front down, knowing that chain in the back is tight. I still always check my straps and chains everytime I get out of the truck, every time I stop for gas, food, etc, but I've never had a chain or strap come loose on me doing it that way.

[nissancrawler]

One thing I've always done with trailering, if I'm using a single chain in the rear, I'll get the vehicle close to where I want it, hook my chain up so there's a little slack, and then either drive it or winch it forward, so that all the slack is taken off of the chain. Then, when you set the brake, get out, you can ratchet strap the front down, knowing that chain in the back is tight. I still always check my straps and chains everytime I get out of the truck, every time I stop for gas, food, etc, but I've never had a chain or strap come loose on me doing it that way.

:shaking::rolleyes:

[DRM]

I don't pretend to be a towing expert but I did make one good decision. I consulted friend of mine on what to buy and how to strap my rig down. My friend hauled heavy equipment for a living and has a lot of towing experience.

This is what he came up with. We used two chains and made them act like four. We tie the rig down at the suspension links and ratchet it tight. Here's a pic.

(I should note, I'm getting real trailer tires asap)

http://www.just4fun.org/images/buggy/Buggy%20detail%209-9-2006/images/dcp_3740.jpg

I still say this method shown in the pic is one of the WORST ways to tie down, and anyone who has played with one of these as a kid should know why:

https://www.marshallgold.org/mercantile/images/DSCF0024-lg.jpg

Add a single tie town to the front and rear to keep it from lifting - and you'd be good to go.

[rajincajingt]

wow!!!

back from the dead... this is how i keep mine on the trailer. one MAC's pack, one strap per axle, straight in the front and crossed in the back. then one independent strap in the front and the back to keep the body under control.

i have chains, i just dont use em because they are a bitch to move around and use, but they sure as hell last longer and are MUCH more abrasion resistant then the straps...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v350/rajincajintj/b8c3c213.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v350/rajincajintj/9f9bcee7.jpg

[rajincajingt]

https://www.marshallgold.org/mercantile/images/DSCF0024-lg.jpg


complete hijack,

how in the hell did you find a picture of "the thing with wood and fabric that switches back and forth"

you rock at the innernet

[Pavemen]

two 3/8" chain in the rear, crossed, tied to the axles outside the leafs. ratchet binder. pull truck forward to tighten.

front is two ratchet straps with axle loops, straight to the trailer corners wrapped around the axles between the inner C and coil bucket.

truck is a 6500lb fullsize with fairly soft suspension for what it is and it tows fine.

[Bradford]

Old combo with the YJ I used to have

small rig <5000lbs YJ on 44/9 but leafs so not overly flexy

I ran 2 straps crossed in the rear >5000 working load straps one on each side of the pig (2.5in wide Kinedyne) WITH axle wrap straps at each axle wrap point to keep the sharp edges off the working strap(3 ft long with abrasion resistant sleave on them (over 10000lb rating each)). both tie down to d-rings welded to the trailer at rear edges of deck.

Same combo in the front at outer edge of axle, just before the inner c's wrapped around the leaf spring perch. Extend to the opposite side of mounting like the rear, mounted to d-rings like the rear is.

Never had a problem, check them every stop, never had one come loose.

Side note: I believe that the safety chains on the trailer should be both welded and bolted, preferably on different links. When you weld the grade 70 chain (or any for that matter) you make the chain brittle at the weld point just asking to fail. Personal opinion, I'm not king of metallergy, just a mech eng.

Bradford