what axles should i be looking for to run 37s on my cherokee? I was thinking d44 and ford 9 inch out of a 78/79 bronco or maybe d44/d44 out of a wagoneer. i also want to keep the stock steering geometry because i have the currie steering that i want to still use but if that wouldnt work could i modify it to work.

And if anyone has pics of thier cherokee on 37s could u post them i need some ideas on what to do

Thanks, Dan

I am kinda new at this so Im not going to completely bash you for not searching, but dude...fucking search!!!:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:

Here is a plethora of info on axle swaps and gearing:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80708

If you dont know about NAXJA, you are a complete fucking idiot if you own a Cherokee, btw...

Welcome to Pirate:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:

i am searching but figured id ask anyway to see what people had to say. so if you dont like it dont post. but i kinda figure that would be said because that seems to be the theme on this site. :flipoff2:

and thanks for the info

it depends on what you will use it for.:D

a little of everything its my daily driver but when offroad mostly trails and mud

44's would probly suffice for street/mud/trail usage.. upgrade shafts..

no one has ever put 37's on a xj...never...you should probably give up.












(use stock 60's or built 44 and 9in like im running)

how much disposeable income is in your bank account right now?

if you answered less than $8,000 USD... Dont attempt to put 37's on a daily driver.

stick with the 30/44 and run 35's...

Im probably 6 grand into my front HP44, and maybe 1.5 grand into my rear 9" + wheels, tires, steering, ladder bar, leaf springs...

and I'm still worried about breaking shit on 35's...

[QUOTE=XJ_ranger;7851372]Im probably 6 grand into my front HP44QUOTE]

:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

6000 us dollars spent to build a Dana 44 front axle?



I have a custom tubed HP44, chromo'd,super joints,detroit, re brackets, btf cover,flat tops, and all new parts and we have less than half of that in it.....


whats in yours?

how much disposeable income is in your bank account right now?

if you answered less than $8,000 USD... Dont attempt to put 37's on a daily driver.

stick with the 30/44 and run 35's...

Im probably 6 grand into my front HP44, and maybe 1.5 grand into my rear 9" + wheels, tires, steering, ladder bar, leaf springs...

and I'm still worried about breaking shit on 35's...



WOW! Crazy numbers

He's not that far off, to be honest.

You can build a front 44 all you want, but the weak link WILL end up being the little 760 u-joints. You throw CTM's at those and they'll hold up, but then you gotta have everything to match: 300m shafts, some kinda good traction-aiding diff, best hubs (or slugs) you can find, the list goes on. And even then you're limited by the sheer size of the stuff...it's just really not that big, good metallurgy costs money, and even that has its limits.

For contrast, I was breaking Spicer 760 joints in my Dana 30 pretty reliably on 33s. Throw all the upgraded shit you want to into a D44, and I'd still be breaking the same part as I was on a stock Dana 30. It becomes a slippery slope from there.

At this point I've got 35-spline 4340 alloy shafts, inside and out, in my front 60...and it's finally pretty reliable with 39.5s. I slightly twisted one but 185:1 low range will do that if you're bound up and not paying attention. It's also a low-pinion boat anchor that I built for $2k total, which is a bargain if you know what you're looking at.

37s are a bad size because they fall in the middle of those two axles, IMO. With a really light rig, a carefully managed steering angle, and super $$ shafts, you can make 'em last through anything with a 44. With a full-bodied trail rig you're pushing your luck even with the best stuff you can get.

Ideally, for 37's (and for my 39.5s even), I'd want to build a 609 hybrid. Get a Spidertrax or Diamond housing with a loaded 9" third of your choice, and run stock 60 stuff from the inner-C's out. Stock length 35-spline D60 shafts would be the cheapest route. This way you get a lightweight diff housing and a reasonably strong gearset, with the outer shaft & u-joint strength of a D60.

But, then again...there are people who run 37's on a D30, and claim to never have broken anything. I can guarantee you those same people will never follow me down most of the trails I run. YMMV.

I got 37's on a 44 and 9 built along with everyone else :barf:

im building a 44/9 for 39.5s...

:flipoff2:

:grinpimp:

what axles should i be looking for to run 37s on my cherokee? I was thinking d44 and ford 9 inch out of a 78/79 bronco or maybe d44/d44 out of a wagoneer. i also want to keep the stock steering geometry because i have the currie steering that i want to still use but if that wouldnt work could i modify it to work.

And if anyone has pics of thier cherokee on 37s could u post them i need some ideas on what to do

Thanks, Dan

Heres 37x12.50x17 MTR's. My first axle swap project.
It took me over 2 months. This is not a DD, but I drive it a lot on the pavement. No vibes, no death wooble, and no bump-steer and I can drive it 75 mph. My goal was a semi-comfortable family friendly, capable wheeler. I still have some work to do, stiffen unibody, longarms etc...
It handled Fordyce and the Rubicon well (no I don't do the box or JV). My only real issue is some rubbing and I wish I could get a lower COG, but I don't want to cut it up, at least not until I have trashed the sheet metal.

Front:
HP Dana 44 from a 1978 F250
Alloy shafts
Yukon super ujoints
Warn premium hubs
Ford 1 ton dual piston calipers
Highsteer, 1 ton Chevy TREs
ARB

Rear:
Dana 60 from a 1979 F250
35 spline alloy shafts
Disc conversion Eldorado calipers
ARB

Full width, 8 lug, 5.13 gears

I've lowered it an inch, moved the rear axle back some, and cut and folded the rear quarter panels since these pics. Nothing has broken yet, but I don't beat on it either. Oh yeah, and I have about $3k in the front axle, and about $1600 in the rear.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/SierraDrifter/Jeep%20Build/poser2.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/SierraDrifter/Jeep%20Build/poser3.jpg

I got 37's on a 44 and 9 built along with everyone else :barf:

same here, minus the :barf: . i've had good luck so far with the 44. one issue with a warrenty stub and one exploded warn hub. other than that no problems. only reason i'd like to go with a D60 front is cause i want to go with slightly bigger tires now. a built rear 9 should have no problems going up to 40" tires. only problem is matching a front 8-lug axle

so what i am getting from this is that it can be done but shouldnt be done unless you trailer it but if i were to doit i would need some cash

so should i just save for 60/60

6000 in a D44, fuck me. I could build a sweet 60 or even a 609 for that.

You'll need to run at leadt an hp d44 and 9" like was said. Personally, I'd go 1 tons but that's overkill for only 37s. If you plan to move up from there though, then definately do 1 tons.

You can still drive a rig on the road with 37s and full width axles, I know lots of people who do it with various trucks. You have to keep in mind that it is going to drive very very different from stock.

so what type of dana 60s should i be looking for like out of a ford,dodge,chevy and what years are best and what to avoid

Check the D60 bible in the tech section of the site.

cool thanks forgot about that

I am kinda new at this so Im not going to completely bash you for not searching, but dude...fucking search!!!:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:

Here is a plethora of info on axle swaps and gearing:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80708

If you dont know about NAXJA, you are a complete fucking idiot if you own a Cherokee, btw...

Welcome to Pirate:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:

nicely put

Personally, I would never run something with 760x-sized u-joints with 37s. It just ain't big enough.

For the record...I've broken two factory Ford 9" gearsets, nodular housing, 35's, stock Bronco 302. Put the best shafts in the world in there and guess what - I'd still have broken the gears. I did this while plowing snow. Just something to think about.

Personally, I would never run something with 760x-sized u-joints with 37s. It just ain't big enough.

Agreed.

Going from a D30 to a D44 front is kind of pointless imo. Especially if you want large tires.

how much disposeable income is in your bank account right now?

if you answered less than $8,000 USD... Dont attempt to put 37's on a daily driver.

stick with the 30/44 and run 35's...

Im probably 6 grand into my front HP44, and maybe 1.5 grand into my rear 9" + wheels, tires, steering, ladder bar, leaf springs...

and I'm still worried about breaking shit on 35's...

$6000 dollars??!! Wow all this time I thought that was yellow paint. Turns out it was gold plating all along.:laughing:

:eek:

How is that even possible???

I have about that much in both of my steering 60's COMBINED...

Yea, someone got ripped off with that front D44, unless you've broken chromo shafts, ring and pinions, lockers, and are counting replacement costs....

My built D60/10.5 combo was just under $4k with 5.38's and ARB's Professionally installed!!

to throw some real numbers in here - I wasnt just talking about the cost of what I am actually running, but I was talking about the cost of everything to get the axle in the vehicle, all the stock shafts I broke, all the stock U-joints I broke, the pairs of ball joints ive put in, wheel bearings, calipers, and all my spares...

suff Im currently using that is part of or welded to the Front Axle
junkyard housing:175
R+P (5.13, yukon): 125
master install kit (yukon): 100
new pinion yoke: $75
new yoke straps: 20
Detroit: 600
Wanr Premiums (2 sets, 1 as a spare set): 200
2 CTM's: $400
Superior 4130 Outers: $250
Warn Inners: $400
Small Super Flex Joint: $40
Dedenbear outer knuckles: $500
Parts Mike Parts High Steer Arms: $200
Misc steel for brackets (on the axle): $70
Calipers - $100
Pads - $30
Rotors - $100
Wheel Bearings - $75 (timken w/ national seals - both sides)
Brake lines: $40
Ball joints: $100 (I had PMP install them in my knuckles before they shipped em)
Jeepers and Creepers Diff guard - $70
New custom front drive shaft from Jess at HAD - $290

Total above - $3960 :eek:

Stuff I ran in previous revisons:
Yukon Alloys (2 inners, 2 outers): $450
JKS Trackbar bracket - $50
JKS OEM UCA Bushing Cradle (2x) - $50
OEM UCA Bushings (2x) - $50
Stock Spicer Stub shafts (one of the ones that came with my axle was fubar) - $50
3 sets of stock junkyard shafts from the pirate 4x4 classifieds - $300
Brand new u-joints for every shaft I've ever run - 11 Spicer 760's @35/per - $385
couple different sets of pinion yoke u-bolts - $30
Stock open carrier (3.55 and numerically higher) - $50

total above - $1415 :eek:

Shit I've had to buy:
Axle straigtening (my junkyard housing was bent, I blew thru like 6 shafts the same way, at the splines on the inner) $250
CTM Rebuild Kit (when I put the warn inners in, I destroyed like 4 CTM caps removing them from the Yukons) - $90
Spare spindle - $75
Spare brake rotor / outer hub - $70

another $485

grand total of parts - just off the top of my head - $6200... :eek::eek:

Can it be done cheaper? sure...
But im the kinda guy that buys parts to go wheeling... I generally don't ask EVERY vendor on pirate to low ball all the other ones - I just buy from company's that have treated me right in the past...
Parts Mike Parts - Great company, knowledgeable, ships quick, great to deal with...
Performance Off Road center - ill never buy from them again... (unless I am in Georgia and can physically walk out with the part and not deal with their shipping dept...)


The fact of the matter is - there are some things that we all (as backyard, bend steel with a torch and hammer, $100 welder, booty fab kings) wont get right the first time... and you will have to re-do them... and you cant neglect this cost...
also with a 44, you have to carry spares... I carry the Yukon's as spares now after waranteing 3 of the 4 shafts...
I carry a spare set of hubs...
My tow rig carries the spare spindle and hub shell assembly - because blowing a stub shaft will take out the spindle and the wheel bearings, and the outer hub...

you can probably make a 609 for cheaper now - and not carry (more importiantly - not have to BUY) the spares - have a lighter rig, with cooler bling factor, and more clearance... (my shaved 9 has more diff clearance than the HP 44)...

and are counting replacement costs....

I'd imagine he is...to give an accurate number for how much it costs to build an axle, I'd want to know the total amount of money spent on it. Someone saying they built front 44 for $500 initially sounds like a great deal until they talk about the additional $500 they've spent in replacement shafts, u-joints, and hubs since running it.

Just 'cuz I was curious, I just did a quick add-up of all the $$ I have in my axles.

Rear: $650
GM 14ff, 4.56, detroit, disc brakes. Bought complete & assembled w/0 miles.

Front: $2240
1982 Dodge D60: $0.
Yukon 4340 35-spline shafts with Spicer u-joints: $650
Detroit: $570
Detroit replacement parts: $330
Ring & pinion: $165
Install kit: $100
Brakes/bearings/seals: $250
Hi-steer arm: $120
Yoke: $65
Diff cover: $80

Total: $2890

That's enough for me to be fairly confident with 39.5s. If I build a new front axle for it, it'll be a Spidertrax 9" with a Hi9 center, and all my existing 60 stuff from the inner-c's out. I'd match the housing length so I can use my 35-spline shafts, and I wouldn't have to change steering or brakes at all. For this, I figure $500 for the housing, and $2100 for the Hi9 center geared and locked. If I do that, I'd still have under $5k in my front axle, which ain't all that bad.

I have about 5000 in my front rockjock iron HPD60 with arb and 4340 shafts w/dedenbear inner C. and about 1100 in my 14bolt rear anchor with detriot and disc brakes. everything was new except rear housing and front outer knuckles.

But I did a little body trimming to fit the 37's. :flipoff2:

an un-shaved 14bolt on 37's...

great choice for a rear axle... :shaking:

an un-shaved 14bolt on 37's...

great choice for a rear axle... :shaking:

It was a throw in, it is currently being shaved. But I fully agree! Dont go using a 14B with 37's haha... I will say though that nothing in Big bear caught up on it, and calico only touched it in a few places. But I am sure it will get hung up.

Just wasnt to sure what to do with it when I first put it in, and didnt have the time then either.

It was a throw in, it is currently being shaved. But I fully agree! Dont go using a 14B with 37's haha... I will say though that nothing in Big bear caught up on it, and calico only touched it in a few places. But I am sure it will get hung up.

Just wasnt to sure what to do with it when I first put it in, and didnt have the time then either.

Robert - everyone knows that Big Bear definitely requires 14bolt strength... :D

I missed you out at RockinXJ this year - what happened?

Robert - everyone knows that Big Bear definitely requires 14bolt strength... :D

I missed you out at RockinXJ this year - what happened?

Well that the only two places I had a chance to make before the wife was to far prego to leave the her alone. And that is why I didnt make it out there. Wyatt was born just over 2 months ago now, and I have a free leesh now. SO just got the heep back in my garage and going to Try and shave the rear, hyrdo assist it, and mount the winch before TDS. then see how all that works out there, then hopfully head out to bigger and better places.

I do wish I had the $ to do a better rear axle (higher clearance) that would handle 37's now and 40's later. But after all the coin on the front, That was all I could afford...

i was thinkin these axles from dynatrac but i dont know the price

http://www.dynatrac.com/products_jeep_97tjfaa.html

but they should be plenty strong for 37s and they bolt right up for the most part

Or hell only 1400 front and 800 rear fully rebuilt realy to install :D

http://usa6x6.com/products_and_services/2.5ton_rockwell/TRUCKSTV.jpg

some fab work required :flipoff2:

that would be sweet but not that street friendly

Consider this as an exptension of what Opie (XJ_Ranger) has been saying.




Budget 609s front and rear DIY style can be had for less the 6k front and rear. More clearance. More strength. More bling bling. :mr-t:

I am truly a believer that Dana 44s (front and rear) serve ZERO purpose in the off road world any more. The price to strength ratio is low compared to other newer options available.

Repeat after me.


609



Ready?



609



One more time.



609




:D

I am truly a believer that Dana 44s (front and rear) serve ZERO purpose in the off road world any more. The price to strength ratio is low compared to other newer options available.

Dammit, again! :flipoff2:

I would have been in a great spot if I had just done a 609 from the start. My TOTAL cost into the front axle, if I used the same shafts & 60 outers, would have been $3500. I wouldn't have had to buy the D60 detroit, or fix the D60 detroit, or regear the D60.

Dammit, again! :flipoff2:



Must be a weird feeling to have the right opinion on things... Lessons learned he hard way.:flipoff2:

I have always been right, it's just others are finally seeing why. :grinpimp:

Well, FWIW, I started building my D60 in March of 2006. The 609 stuff wasn't nearly as popular or versatile almost two years ago.

whats a good site to price out 609 parts or whole axles

whats a good site to price out 609 parts or whole axles


Are you a more than capable fabricator?

If so, do it through Hi-9 and spidertrax.

If not, I am more than willing to quote you a price to have them built to your specs by my shop.

Are you a more than capable fabricator?

If so, do it through Hi-9 and spidertrax.

If not, I am more than willing to quote you a price to have them built to your specs by my shop.

i probably wouldnt be able to build an axle thats why i was looking at complete ones but they were talking about 609s so i figured i would take a look.
what would you charge for a built axle that you could ship to me because you are kinda far from chicago?

i probably wouldnt be able to build an axle thats why i was looking at complete ones but they were talking about 609s so i figured i would take a look.
what would you charge for a built axle that you could ship to me because you are kinda far from chicago?



You would be over 10k paying someone... do it yourself or find a buddy to help. Unless you can afford!

There are 2 good ways to go 609. Junkyard style and bling style.

I think i figured i could do a junkyard style 609 for around 3500 with manual steering and detroit. Bling style is around 5500 with manual steering and detroit.

My TOTAL cost into the front axle, if I used the same shafts & 60 outers, would have been $3500.

I think i figured i could do a junkyard style 609 for around 3500 with manual steering and detroit.

:laughing:

The other problem I ran into with mine was that I drew the cost out over a VERY long time. I wheeled it with stock shafts for a few trips till they broke, then got the upgraded shafts and wheeled for a few more trips until the detroit finally gave out...and so on. I had gotten to the point where I'd been working on the thing for almost a year and I just wanted to get out and wheel it, so there were some compromises I made to make it happen sooner. I've learned a lot in the last year since I've been wheeling it regularly, and there are things I would have done differently...but you'll have that on just about any build. At this point I'm probably not going to make any significant changes to the XJ as it works pretty damn well as it is, and I'd rather concentrate those efforts (and $$) on a full buggy project later down the road.

BUT - there are some thing that don't have to be learned, and relative axle strength is one of them. Going to a 609 won't make for a stronger axle necessarily, just a lighter and more versatile one. Likewise, it's been proven that you can build a 44 to take some abuse, but you need to be prepared to service and repair it regularly no matter what you do to it. I dealt with that kind of bullshit on a Dana 30 for quite a few years before I decided that a 44 wouldn't solve my problems, and got to the point where I wanted the confidence to be able to drive like an asshole if the situation required it.

[QUOTE=XJ_ranger;7851372]Im probably 6 grand into my front HP44QUOTE]

:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

6000 us dollars spent to build a Dana 44 front axle?



I have a custom tubed HP44, chromo'd,super joints,detroit, re brackets, btf cover,flat tops, and all new parts and we have less than half of that in it.....


whats in yours?

I have a Tera50 with alloy shafts, ARB and hydro assist and im not into it for even close to that.

He's counting all the broken and replacement parts, as should anyone giving a cost for running an axle.

same here, minus the :barf: . i've had good luck so far with the 44. one issue with a warrenty stub and one exploded warn hub. other than that no problems. only reason i'd like to go with a D60 front is cause i want to go with slightly bigger tires now. a built rear 9 should have no problems going up to 40" tires. only problem is matching a front 8-lug axle

you can run 6 lugs d60 hubs and aftermarket 6 lug 9" shafts. check out Redcagetoy's Jeep he built for his wife.


I feel ok on 35's with my 44/9", but I think any bigger is a waste of money on the 44.

These guys know what they are talking about. Thanks for the input.

I guess it's time to build another front for when the XJ isn't a DD anymore.

You would be over 10k paying someone... do it yourself or find a buddy to help. Unless you can afford!

There are 2 good ways to go 609. Junkyard style and bling style.

I think i figured i could do a junkyard style 609 for around 3500 with manual steering and detroit. Bling style is around 5500 with manual steering and detroit.

Where are you getting your inners/outers from? That seems to be the expensive part.

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=446311

Make sure you upgrade shafts. Stocker's don't last long. I also broke a rear 9" third before going to a nodular third.

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=446311

Make sure you upgrade shafts. Stocker's don't last long. I also broke a rear 9" third before going to a nodular third.

Looks like your break may have started at the same place as mine...the little hole in the bearing cap where the retainer goes.

Where are you getting your inners/outers from? That seems to be the expensive part.

Stock dodge outers (the cheap 609 must be done uni-bearing). You get those shafts when you pull the complete outers and shafts out of the junkyard! You could possibly reuse a inner ( I dont know honestly) but Dutchman resplines shafts for a small cost and also does custom length OEM quality shafts for not that much. Your results may vary.

Stock dodge outers (the cheap 609 must be done uni-bearing). You get those shafts when you pull the complete outers and shafts out of the junkyard! You could possibly reuse a inner ( I dont know honestly) but Dutchman resplines shafts for a small cost and also does custom length OEM quality shafts for not that much. Your results may vary.

I meant the inner and outer knuckles not shafts. Sorry for the confusion. I assume you pull them from a dodge 60. If you're cutting up a 60, why not just use it unless you want less weight of the 609?

I meant the inner and outer knuckles not shafts. Sorry for the confusion. I assume you pull them from a dodge 60. If you're cutting up a 60, why not just use it unless you want less weight of the 609?

AFAIK most junk yards want alot for a complete unit. I dont think they would take kindly to you hackin on stuff that equals dollars. :)

With so so many aftermarket manufactures producing knuckles, you can spend the coil on some new ball joint inners. Bolt on the outers from the junk yard. Call it good. With the new dodge stuff, "high steer" is factory. So having to worry about all that expense is gone.

With the new dodge stuff, "high steer" is factory. So having to worry about all that expense is gone.

do you have any pictures of these? or an application (specific model and year?)

ive searched around after talking with you, but havent seen any pictures or anything...

do you have any pictures of these? or an application (specific model and year?)

ive searched around after talking with you, but havent seen any pictures or anything...


Quick search found me this! 06 Dodge 4x4 has it.

See how the TRE is mounted? toss a heim on top of that knuckle and high steer :eek:

http://images.4wheeloffroad.com/featuredvehicles/131_0601_03_z+2006_dodge_ram_megacab+disc_brakes.j pg

what axles should i be looking for to run 37s on my cherokee? I was thinking d44 and ford 9 inch out of a 78/79 bronco or maybe d44/d44 out of a wagoneer. i also want to keep the stock steering geometry because i have the currie steering that i want to still use but if that wouldnt work could i modify it to work.

And if anyone has pics of thier cherokee on 37s could u post them i need some ideas on what to do

Thanks, Dan

You will be fine with a D44/9" playing in mud/trail/DD. The big problem is steering with the 37's! anything over a 35 inch tire, you will need to change your steering if you dont want your cherokee to wondering all over the road. I have seen some D44/D44 wagoneer axles under cherokees, and it looks great. you could get away with this if you beef up the rear axle and stay away from the rocks! hope this input helps

Quick search found me this! 06 Dodge 4x4 has it.

See how the TRE is mounted? toss a heim on top of that knuckle and high steer :eek:

FYI, 03+ Dodge 2500 & 3500 uses an AAM 9.25 14 bolt front axle...it's not a Dana 60.

And Hadfield, I thought you were taking a break from the intardnet? :flipoff2:

FYI, 03+ Dodge 2500 & 3500 uses an AAM 9.25 14 bolt front axle...it's not a Dana 60.

And Hadfield, I thought you were taking a break from the intardnet? :flipoff2:


Correct... but the outers bolt onto a BJ D60 inner knuckle... :smokin:

You will be fine with a D44/9" playing in mud/trail/DD. The big problem is steering with the 37's! anything over a 35 inch tire, you will need to change your steering if you dont want your cherokee to wondering all over the road. I have seen some D44/D44 wagoneer axles under cherokees, and it looks great. you could get away with this if you beef up the rear axle and stay away from the rocks! hope this input helps

Sorry, I disagree (on the axle part not steering)... maybe i'm just lucky or something but I'm running a Waggy 44 up front w/ Alloy USA shafts and an Isuzu D44 out back (stock shafts)... I also run 37" MAXXIS Sticky's and only wheel rocks... nothing broken yet (knock on wood)...

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/CTFriel/144jpg.jpg

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/CTFriel/127jpg.jpg

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/CTFriel/DPP_0005.jpg

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/CTFriel/URE1.jpg

Sorry, I disagree (on the axle part not steering)... maybe i'm just lucky or something but I'm running a Waggy 44 up front w/ Alloy USA shafts and an Isuzu D44 out back (stock shafts)... I also run 37" MAXXIS Sticky's and only wheel rocks... nothing broken yet (knock on wood)...

I was breaking a Spicer 760x joint in my D30 every trip out with 33's running stuff like that.

Just sayin...Alloy USA shafts wouldn't have fixed that.

I was breaking a Spicer 760x joint in my D30 every trip out with 33's running stuff like that.

Just sayin...Alloy USA shafts wouldn't have fixed that.

but CTM's would :smokin:

then your ring gear would go instead :D

FYI, 03+ Dodge 2500 & 3500 uses an AAM 9.25 14 bolt front axle...it's not a Dana 60.

And Hadfield, I thought you were taking a break from the intardnet? :flipoff2:

I was researching and came across this. Had to ask the question. This way there are no expectations.:flipoff2:

Are you stalking me?:confused:


Damn you made me log in for this. :mad3:

bye bye

Damn this thread...now I can't not build a 609 :(



















:flipoff2:

I don't know why the iron rockjock isn't of some interest or at least equal to the 9" center. Only down side is like 30lbs but u get it done for less and stronger housing imo as well as great clerance

Sorry, I disagree (on the axle part not steering)... maybe i'm just lucky or something but I'm running a Waggy 44 up front w/ Alloy USA shafts and an Isuzu D44 out back (stock shafts)... I also run 37" MAXXIS Sticky's and only wheel rocks... nothing broken yet (knock on wood)...

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/CTFriel/144jpg.jpg


thats a sweet cherokee how much did you pay for the waggy 44 stock if u know? Iwas wondering because i found a grand wagoneer with d44 front and rear but they want $350 each at the junkyard. I thought that was expensive but maybe not.

Dan

I don't know why the iron rockjock isn't of some interest or at least equal to the 9" center. Only down side is like 30lbs but u get it done for less and stronger housing imo as well as great clerance

because D60 centersections suck!

my shaved ford 9 is higher clearance than my 44... no way the 60 has the same clarance...

I ran every trail I could find on 44's and 37's over a three year period. I broke shafts every now and again, but I am a technical wheeler, I dont use alot of throttle. I prefer proper suspension setup and a stable vehicle. I loved that setup, one summer I broke one too many shafts, so I got pissed and tore everything out and went one tons. While doing the swap I wished to hell I didnt do it, ended up spending 10k on top of what I sold my built up 44's for. Of course this wasnt just in axles, it was in upgraded suspension parts, doubler, tires etc. Now that it is done, I am still an technical wheeler, but not all the time, pounding on that hp60 and all custom shafts while bouncing off by rev limiter is fun every now and again. It was completely worth it.

As for the 44's, doing shafts would have been a bandaid, more reliable but with one obvious flaw I didnt see pointed out, knuckle strength. Bust out a ball joint dana 44 knuckle 3 miles from the trail head and see how your days goes.

Before
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l270/kidkrawler/131_0501_feat_01_z.jpg
After
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l270/kidkrawler/DSC03549.jpg

Before
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l270/kidkrawler/131_0501_feat_01_z.jpg
After
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l270/kidkrawler/DSC03549.jpg

Out of curosity.. what length is that trailer? 14 or 16'

Chris

because D60 centersections suck!

my shaved ford 9 is higher clearance than my 44... no way the 60 has the same clarance...

Have you seen my or any other currie rockjock center yet? It is prolly 3-4 inching more clearance then my NOW shaved 14bolt, and thats for only about 4", then the rest contures up significantly. Have you seen the BEEF of it? Nevermind the Mess under it, I am doing a hydro assist currently.

I have to say that the clearance is Not at all a pro or con between the two. The 9" center is not even close to contoured around the ring gear, but it may have 1/2"-1" Max at the ring gear area in better clearance. But the rest of the RJ is better I think in the center section area. Not to mention theres no way in hell that the 9" housing can be even close to strength to this thing. Maybe the pinion, but thats a argument better left for another thread?

And the rear all I got to do was clearance it down to the pumpkin and remove all the lip. That with the new 39.5's really helped there..

Have you seen my or any other currie rockjock center yet? It is prolly 3-4 inching more clearance then my NOW shaved 14bolt, and thats for only about 4", then the rest contures up significantly. Have you seen the BEEF of it? Nevermind the Mess under it, I am doing a hydro assist currently.

I have to say that the clearance is Not at all a pro or con between the two. The 9" center is not even close to contoured around the ring gear, but it may have 1/2"-1" Max at the ring gear area in better clearance. But the rest of the RJ is better I think in the center section area. Not to mention theres no way in hell that the 9" housing can be even close to strength to this thing. Maybe the pinion, but thats a argument better left for another thread?

And the rear all I got to do was clearance it down to the pumpkin and remove all the lip. That with the new 39.5's really helped there..


Looks heavy :D

Looks heavyDUTY :D

fixed it for ya :D