I have been looking around for some pics/write-up to tell me what gear I am in... yea, it sounds retarded, but I have never driven with a NP205 let alone a twin sticked 205. LOL. I put the 'safty notches' in the shift rails - but that was so long ago I dont remember what/where 4H, N, 4L is on both sides. I would love to see some pictures so I can mark things accordingly. Go ahead and flame... I feel like a tool for even asking. :shaking:

I can get the Left shifter (front) two clicks. I know one of them is N because there is no friction when I turn the front Yoke. I can pull back on the shifter and the rod moving out of t-case... I am guess 4 Low? I would really like some pictures of the location of the shift rail, easier to understand over the internet.

Thanks.

The right stick should be for your rear axle, left stick should be for your front. Just remember "right rear"

Both of them should go like this:

L
N
H

Make sense?

That makes sense... If the left shifter is in N and lets say 2" of the shift rod is out, would 2" of the shift rod be showing for the right shifter if it was in N also??

Nope. the right rail is only about 2" long at it's longest, the left rail is about 4" at it's longest.

Just feel for the detents.

And the shift pattern also depends on how your linkage is setup. Pro is right that the typical setup is "LNH", but when I put mine together I reversed the pattern to get "HNL". It makes it so when I'm not in 4wd, there is more room for a middle passenger. That space is already at a premium due to the 4 speed shifter.

So the rail all the way into the case is L and all the way out is H.

Justin

If you didn't reverse the pattern, then what everyone is telling you is correct. Push the shifter foreward pushes the rod into the case, and into low. Pull it back all the way, it pulls the rod out of the case, and into high. One shift shaft is about 2" longer than the other, so once you get them both in nuetral, look at it or measure it for reference. From the center point, its about a half inch either way for high or low on either one of them.

The way to be sure you are in nuetral is to get them both forward, then each one back one detent(obviously), but to be sure, when they are both in nuetral, you can move the opposite shifter forward or back to high or low. Put that shifter back in the nuetral(center) position, and now you will be able to move the other shifter forward or back into high or low. If either stick is in low, the safety rods you mentioned will only allow the opposite shifter in low or nuetral, and likewise for high. Once you tried all these shifting scenarios, you should be familiar enough with it again.

Thanks... felt like a tool asking but better then F'ing something up.

Thanks... felt like a tool asking but better then F'ing something up.

Don't mind stupid questions so much....as guys being douchebags about asking stupid questions (which we've had more than our fair share lately). You weren't so its all good :D

Johnny sent me this a while ago
How To: NP 205 Twin Stick Cheap
It has some good pictures of the shift rails positions and is marked as to what is what
you have to scroll it back up to the top

http:www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6704292&posted=1#post6704292

Yea, one of the best write-ups done and commonly cited on here is by my good buddy Ivan: http://www.nwuonline.com/twinsitck-205.html

Thats pretty sweet, I love to read write ups.
I really like ones that pertain to do it yourself type stuff,
cheap alternatives to paying out the butt for something someone else has done for you.
I like to learn how, and do it myself

I think I have a hang of the shift pattern... practicing in the garage.. LOL. I went on a hill and put it in 4H and locked the hubs, and I put it into Drive and she didnt like that very much. The Jeep would inch forward then POW and leap forward. I had some strange dude climb into my Jeep and after explaining to him what is what I had him ease off the brake... as I watched the front drive shaft slowly turn and the POW it leaps forward a quarter of a turn forward? WTF?

The 205 which has a bit of a dribble coming out the front now has a steady pace drip. I took it out of 4 wheel unlocked the hubs and drove back to the garage.


When its in N it freely spins...

Any help would be great... I am leaving for Uwharrie in 4 days. LOL.

oh...

'74 EB Dana 44 & '79 F250 NP205

I'd say one of 2 things, neither very good. Most likely you had the ranges split front to rear and you damaged either the shafts or bearings, and probably even the gears also in the case. That is why it is leaking. Bent shafts or broken bearings. The POW meant the gears slipped, and are probably chewed up. The other possibility, which I don't think would have made a POW unless the case was worn and weak to start with, would be that you don't have matched ratios in the front and rear axles, and that is what is causing the binding. Either way I think you need a new case, and you had better match your modified shift rail very close to the article posted, because if done right, you can't get split ranges.

I'd say one of 2 things, neither very good. Most likely you had the ranges split front to rear and you damaged either the shafts or bearings, and probably even the gears also in the case. That is why it is leaking. Bent shafts or broken bearings. The POW meant the gears slipped, and are probably chewed up. The other possibility, which I don't think would have made a POW unless the case was worn and weak to start with, would be that you don't have matched ratios in the front and rear axles, and that is what is causing the binding. Either way I think you need a new case, and you had better match your modified shift rail very close to the article posted, because if done right, you can't get split ranges.


I bought the shift rails pre cut... http://www.jkwoffroad.com/offroadproducts.php

I was able to put it into 2 hi and drive away... My front driveshaft has a crappy angle so I am wondering if it is binding and maybe one of these will fix that...http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

The front axle has 4.88's and ARB, the rear is a true hi-9 w/ 4.86's I guess...

Im gonna pull the front cover off the diff and pull the shaft and replace the front seal on the tcase while looking to see if anything is broke.

:confused:

All I need to do is replace the t-case and the front axle before I even get one wheeling trip on them. LOL. :mad3:

Hopefully it is another issue then, and not as gloomy as I predicted.

All I need to do is...


That's a very dangerous phrase...

That's a very dangerous phrase...

ain't it though... the wife is looking at me like Im a nut (Atlas & spyder 9). :smokin:

kinda on the same subject, but i was wondering if you twin sticked the 205 if it lets you have a 2hi 4hi N 2lo 4lo option. i'm sure its possible but just thought i'd ask if anyones had any expiraince

How goofy is this...

Removed the PTO plate, everything looked great. Removed both yokes... everything looked great (changed the leaking seals). Im going to pull the t-case and replace the rear output on the tranny and input on the t-case.

The front gears looked great... no chips or even a single flake.

However, I didnt see the problem... When I was pushing the Jeep (yes, but as a Ford drivetrain) back with my foot I saw the front drive shaft fully lock with the yoke. talking about binding. I ordered two super flex ujoints - I hope they will work until I get back from uwharrie so I can order a double cardon CV shaft.

kinda on the same subject, but i was wondering if you twin sticked the 205 if it lets you have a 2hi 4hi N 2lo 4lo option. i'm sure its possible but just thought i'd ask if anyones had any expiraince
Thats one of the pluses, along with front digs.

How goofy is this...

Removed the PTO plate, everything looked great. Removed both yokes... everything looked great (changed the leaking seals). Im going to pull the t-case and replace the rear output on the tranny and input on the t-case.

The front gears looked great... no chips or even a single flake.

However, I didnt see the problem... When I was pushing the Jeep (yes, but as a Ford drivetrain) back with my foot I saw the front drive shaft fully lock with the yoke. talking about binding. I ordered two super flex ujoints - I hope they will work until I get back from uwharrie so I can order a double cardon CV shaft.

I was just going to ask if your d-shaft was binding.

Just an update...

I put in the superflex u-joints and they are working great.. No issues at all.


HOWEVER - Is there away to "loosen" the shift? I was in 4 high and went to put it in 4 lo, front first - no problem. rear, its so damn stiff that i busted the welds on the shifter to the bracket that bolts to the rail. :mad3:

Thanks. :homer:

HOWEVER - Is there away to "loosen" the shift? I was in 4 high and went to put it in 4 lo, front first - no problem. rear, its so damn stiff that i busted the welds on the shifter to the bracket that bolts to the rail. :mad3:

Thanks. :homer:

Change the grind on the rail. With a properly executed twin stick all shifts should be smooth as glass with only a noticable click into gear. Hell, that smooth as butter shift more than anything is why I went to twinsticking everything.

Front digs are just a bonus because they confuse the ignorant :D

he might have had the driveline all bound up, cant recall if your's is auto Pro.
if the driveline has pressure on it, it will not want to shift.
gears are a solid link, so any pressure is going to make shifting difficult, in a 4 speed we just use the clutch to get the gears turning a bit to free them for shifting, auto must be a different technique as you have no direct control over the gears

Driveline bind for sure, but also be if the detent springs are new; they can be very stiff and just by backing off the retaining nut a bit until they “break” in may help.

Just an update...

I put in the superflex u-joints and they are working great.. No issues at all.


HOWEVER - Is there away to "loosen" the shift? I was in 4 high and went to put it in 4 lo, front first - no problem. rear, its so damn stiff that i busted the welds on the shifter to the bracket that bolts to the rail. :mad3:

Thanks. :homer:

ive got the same shift rails from them and they were REALLY stiff when i did the install... so much i was concerned also, but after getting it all together, and working them some it has loosened up, and is getting better with more use.

hey guys dont mean to bug you with a stupid question but what is the advantage to a twin stick?

hey guys dont mean to bug you with a stupid question but what is the advantage to a twin stick?

This isnt going to go well for you...

Ask it here
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=43

& Search eather here or on google

ok thanks