Well I am getting ready to drop a motor in my truck and I got to thinking. I dont like the front leaf setup I did a while ago and I figure I should try and make it a little better. I was under the truck looking and I see no fawkin way, with the motor and exhaust. Maybe doing coil springs and radius arms with a panhard but I would rather not. I havent seen much other than EB guys which I have noticed use that setup. I have a later d60 so I dont have much driver sude tube either so a truss may be in order. The rear will get a 4 link when I back half the truck later on.

Doing radius arms is very easy.
Cage off road makes a stupid simple to make their radius arms work on narrow tube'd 60's.
Radius arms are not the best suspension out there, but they do work.

I did some research and saw a jeep that did a three link with a panhard. I kind of liked that setup. I was thinking about it and I may consider doing fender headers and then I could probly squeeze in a 4 link. I havent seen many f100s done like this so I am wondering.

I have been looking into this for at least a year or two and figured that if
I link the front of my truck, it would end up with a three link w/panhard. A Tri four is possible if the speration between the two uppers is just right, but this would also require relocating the motor slightly to the rear and possibly strecthing the front out +/- 6". It all depends how involved you want to get, if you just want it done, radius arms are preaty damn simple.

My truck is a 86 Ford F-350 so the frame is a little wider which makes it a little easier than your F-100. Either way, if you setup any three of these suspensions right, they will all work great.

The 85 in my B2 was setup at first with custom radius arms. I hated them. Now it is 4 linked. The crossmember under the motor is similar to a truck. It was easy to work around. One thing you may want to consider hard is either full hydro or at least assist with a 4 link. Mine is under the knife getting full hydro now.

Well I pushed my front axle about 4-5" forward with the leaf setup I used. I would like it to be another 3 inches or so forward if I link it. With fender exit headers, I would think that I would be able to get enough seperatiion to run a 4 link. I would probly end up with hydro assist, since that was already planned.

Radius arms are not the best suspension out there, but they do work.

Yup. Or you could always four link the front with a trackbar (fivelink)....

SO just straight on basic links? Pro you have fender exit headers no? Do you think there would be enough room to triangulate some upper links in there? My truck isnt that high though! :)

SO just straight on basic links? Pro you have fender exit headers no? Do you think there would be enough room to triangulate some upper links in there? My truck isnt that high though! :)

IIRC Pro is running a full exhaust with chassis exits. I can tell you I couldn't put a 4-link in my junk without REALLY fucking with the links. (bending them Etc.)

IIRC Pro is running a full exhaust with chassis exits. I can tell you I couldn't put a 4-link in my junk without REALLY fucking with the links. (bending them Etc.)

Fawk it headers through the hood and a dry sump... :flipoff2:

SO just straight on basic links?

Yea, with the addition of a track bar....otherwise known as a "five link". But otherwise, as has been pointed out radius arms can be made to work pretty good, and just link the rear.

Fawk it headers through the hood and a dry sump... :flipoff2:

Hell yea, thats the only way to roll! :D

I confess, 94StepsideFord has it right though. I still like to take mine on the road (so no zoomies for me) from time to time to make the hippies in the yugo's duck and cover :laughing:

Mines going to get headers though the hood. I wanted fender exits but way too $$.

I dont think I have seen your rig before. How much lift you got? I only got 8" so you might have more room. With my 94 I could probaly swing a 4 link and have it work decent (~12" of lift).

Haha nice. Sounds like people dont do this tooo often so I am gonna have to figure out something. The 3 link with a panhard sounded good, or a four link with panhard, same idear.

I am sure youve seen it before. I would say around 6" or so. I would just make my own fender exits, I am going to have no tire there and am good friends with the sawzall so I dont see clearance being an issue?? I may be wrong though.

Problem with my truck is that the boggers would hit the headers. 8" of lift and 44's doesn't leave much room. I'm sure you can figure something out. With enought thinking, sawzall, and welder anything can happen.

Well with a front axle pushed forward around 8" And some 40's or so I think it would clear. Plus it would be bad ass :D

Yep just build your own, you can get them nice and tucked up in there, you can even hack a little into the floor, you've seen my pictures of my headers i built, and you can get them nice and tucked in there, passenger side is easy, driver side is more tricky as the brake p. valve and steering shaft have to be worked around, but other than that its pretty easy if you're not afraid to take away body material.

As far as linking, do a wisbone upper, and build it to work around the engine crossmember, then build a basic, but compact truss, then when building coil spring mounts incorporate the mount for the lowers into the mount.

I'm going to be doing a radius arm style setup closer to a ladder bar setup, the main bar will be bout 48" long with a big evo hiem at the frame end, bushing at the axle, with the bushing end going to the top of the axle tube, then the lower bar would be bout evenwith the bottom of the axle tube, bushing at the axle end, then would go roughly 2/3 the length of the main bar bolting to it with a bushing and the approiate bracketry.

Yeah your headers kind of made me see that I could do mine like that. Does a wisbone link do what a panhard would or not really? I need to get into it, its hard to plan out in your head

Yes a wishbone link allows almost no side to side movement at all, even better than the panhard in my mind as a panhardtravels through an arc as is goes up and down, whereas the arc a wishbone top link is in another direction.

So a wishbone is a basic "v" no? I alays thought that would load the heim side to side pretty hard... I would like to tap all my tubing but I need to figure out link material and what will tap for a given tube size. Lots of figuring out to do...

So a wishbone is a basic "v" no? I alays thought that would load the heim side to side pretty hard... I would like to tap all my tubing but I need to figure out link material and what will tap for a given tube size. Lots of figuring out to do...

oui. Just get monster heims like evo's.

I confess, 94StepsideFord has it right though. I still like to take mine on the road (so no zoomies for me) from time to time to make the hippies in the yugo's duck and cover :laughing:
Now THATS funnnnnaaaaaaaay :D:D

Is it ok to weld on the innner C?? I know the pumpkin area is cast but isnt the inner c forged? Ill probly use 7018 stick.

The diff housing on a D60 in Nodular Iron, so it can be welded safely after it's been heated to ~400 degrees. I used a nickle alloy rod. You can probably go to the welding supply and buy a pound or two (Stick welder), since it is expensive as hell.

I haven't done it, but I've seen a lot of guys weld to the Inner C's on this board.

I did the wishbone upper on my front suspension and used bushings at the frame end of the V. If I were to redo the upper link, I would use a JJ or a Heim, because I have a feeling it's gonna wear out the bushing faster then I like.

If ya start with a fresh frame it helps.........

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v26/buzziscrazy2/887bc12c.jpg

How high is that truck? I defintely dont want a subframe that low though. I dont know if I can do an upper wishbone like that. You mean the center section can be welded as well as the inner c's?? I just need to get some time now and get to work on this damn thing.

Yeah, the center section can be welded if you preheat the metal and keep it hot during and after welding. After you weld it, put a torch back on it and keep the temp up and let it cool SLOWLY for a while.

I'm assuming the inner C's can be welded, I've seen it done a lot on here.