Ok guys, its almost time, I have been working at a carwash 6 days a week and I finally have the money. SO.... Who has a KluneV in their jeep? What did you do to compensate for the increased length besides an SYE. I look to lift it about 3 inches, if thats relevant. Thanks for your help.

u know u want a long arm kit instead:D lol:flipoff2:

Here is my take...

You need a SYE $350 and the klune about $800 and you get one dam short driveshaft....

go with a teralow/sye for about the same money or go atlas for $500 dollars more.... but you still got to take my gas skid.


And all require a new driveshaft.

You know some day you are going to have that tcase bolted high up in the belly and there is no way a klune will work , You basically lost everything you gained with a SYE

BILLING INFO!!!!!! i need the billing info. Check your pm's!!!!!!

::cough:: LONG ARM KIT ::cough::: ::sneeze:: scrap the 35c::: lol, do research about whats gonna have to happen if you get the klune or whatever. and dont get so caught up in gear ratios, too much gearing IS possible, like the last guy to go up the wall at carnage couldnt cuz he had too low of gears to get a run at it.:D

Well, cough, thats interesting, cuz i always thought you could shift the klune into 1:1... huh.... not to mention that i only have limited funds, and a new axle will put me high and dry, with no real benifit. Strong axle on something that cant go anywhere to use it.

i dont know shit about klunes or any low gear stuff, but i was just givin an example of too much gearing:p

So what would you run behind the Klune??

I mean surely you don't plan to run a 21 spline transfercase right.

Originally posted by JEEP_TJ_FREAK
So what would you run behind the Klune??

I mean surely you don't plan to run a 21 spline transfercase right.

whatever a stock 4cyl TJ has:D

Originally posted by Brad


whatever a stock 4cyl TJ has:D

Well that doesn't make much sence, the whole selling point of a Klune is it will adapt trannys to xfercases that normally would require an expensive adapter. See with an AX-5 he is basically fucked with getting a transfercase down the road, but with an AX-5/Klune if he is wise when buying it he can get about whatever xfercase he wants to mate up with no adapter or just the ones available from Klune. This allows for a D300 swap which he can't currently do.

Originally posted by mountain bronco
Here is my take...

and the klune about $800


WHERE?????:confused:

Well, cough, thats interesting, cuz i always thought you could shift the klune into 1:1... huh.... not to mention that i only have limited funds, and a new axle will put me high and dry, with no real benifit. Strong axle on something that cant go anywhere to use it. do you have lockers? bigger tires? lift? i think these items will get you way farther than any klune. rear axle upgrade will give you the benefit of not braking shafts. i think a klune is a VERY big waste of money for you at this point. answer me this one question, what will 100+ to 1 do for you stuck on your rocker panels with open diffs? ;)

Originally posted by FULLSIZE
answer me this one question, what will 100+ to 1 do for you stuck on your rocker panels with open diffs? ;)

Yeah, but now you can get stuck slower, and with less stress on the clutch. :D

Originally posted by stemp


WHERE?????:confused:

No shit.... WHERE!!!!!

Having a 4:1 klune for $800 would make me get to work sooner shoving my rear axle back 5-8".

Originally posted by FULLSIZE
do you have lockers? bigger tires? lift? i think these items will get you way farther than any klune. rear axle upgrade will give you the benefit of not braking shafts. i think a klune is a VERY big waste of money for you at this point. answer me this one question, what will 100+ to 1 do for you stuck on your rocker panels with open diffs? ;)

try closer to 190:1

try closer to 190:1 GOOD, so i can get even more heckling in!!!!:p

lol, thanks for the input. so let me answer the questions. I plan on getting a job during the school year, so i will actually be making money. IF I did go with the klune, i would upgrade my Tcase.

BUT, I only threw this out as a possibility. Yes, I have open diffs, but not for long. I plan to put a rear locker in ASAP, no later than november. lift in december, sye and 4:1 in hopefully next month. I am pretty sure I will be sticking with the 4:1, but i wanted to check all options before proceeding.

So here is my next Question. I have to regear (driving me nutz). What do you all think? 4.56 or 4.88? specs are as follows

2.5 4cly
d35c rear, d30 front
plan on 31" or 32" tires.

I dont even want to hear shit about my tire size. I cant afford/dont want huge tires. this is a DD that i want to be able to take to the rubicon, callico, and other fun stuff. nice easy and slow ride to, no gas pedal. So, please give me your opinion/experience with these gears. Thanks.

as ive heard from ken, the difference between 4.56s and 4.88s is 200 rpm. thats why im stickin with 4.56s.

I too am interested in this $800 Klune, the one I just called on was $1600 :eek: .

the $800 klune hangs out with bigfoot and the lockness monster.:laughing:

Originally posted by FULLSIZE
the $800 klune hangs out with bigfoot and the lockness monster.:laughing:

either that or it was 5 finger discounted from somewhere else first.

Originally posted by JEEP_TJ_FREAK
I too am interested in this $800 Klune, the one I just called on was $1600 :eek: .
That's the same price I'm getting. $800 Klune is likely hot. If you truely found it for that price, you better check it out and if it is valid, SHARE THE INFO . Dr Evil voice. I'm the Boss. Need the info.

Originally posted by JEEP_TJ_FREAK
I too am interested in this $800 Klune, the one I just called on was $1600 :eek: .


What was that noise? Oh, think it was someones dreams gettin squashed, ouch, that had to hurt. Oh well, back to the drawing board.


Wheel it, lift it, wheel it, break it, upgrade it, wheel it, lock it, wheel it, then worry about 190:1.


Kwrangln

There was never an $800 klune.....

I pulled it outa my ass..... GO GET AN ATLAS!

Then you will have a reasonably length driveshaft.

Originally posted by mountain bronco
There was never an $800 klune.....

I pulled it outa my ass..... GO GET AN ATLAS!

Then you will have a reasonably length driveshaft.

Hey there, why don't you quit pulling shit out of your ass. That is the whole point of this board DUMBASS!

An atlas only has 1 low range :rolleyes:

If he keeps his AX-5 and 231 combo and adds a Klune 4:1

He will have a 43.934 low range like he does now, thats perfectly fine for sand and trail running where an Atlas 4.3 blows.

Also a 64.609 low range for anything that requires a little more.

Than also a 175.737 low range for the rocks.

With an Atlas all he would have is:


61.378 low range (3.8:1 version)
or
69.454 low range (4.3:1 version)

Oh keep in mind that low range choice cannot be made on the trail but at the time of ordering.



Not that I have anything against the Atlas, it just pisses me off to come to a technical forum and read people spouting shit they have no knowledge of :rolleyes: . If you want an Atlas go get one this thread is about Klunes .

Hey I resemble that remark....

But, I do have an Atlas, and I know how friggin short my rear driveshaft is.

I'm just saying that I think the Atlas is a much more cost effective stronger mod.

I don't like the tera-low, because I have seen to many of them :nuke:

I do know that once you put a klune in front of 231, you are putting a lot of stress on it. Sure you have more choices in gears, but at what point do you need that many choices.

Used to be a 10spd bike was pretty styling, then 12spd the 15spd the 18spd then 21spd the 29spd. People are going the same places. IMHO that is what the shift lever is for.

But beyond all that. I think Seth would be better served with a longer rear drive shaft than anything else.

In a TJ you gain about 6" with a SYE, put in a klune and you lost that 6" add in a 4-5" lift, motor mount lift to help driveline angles and MAYBE you won't have to drop the t-case. I'll give up a "middle range" in a second to gain the belly clearance.

I have about 26-27 inches under my transfer case skid (atlas, 2"body lift, flat sheet of 3/8" aluminum skid with 36s) I could always use a little more.

To each his own, (thats why there is 12000 members on the board) but that is my opinion...

Opinions are like assholes, everyones got one.

First off LordRatner, you're on the right track regardless of what these guys are saying. I don't know what axles you're running and what "level" you are up to in your build-up, but a Klune is a good choice for lots of ratio options...

Second, a recommendation. If you have a 4-banger Jeep with a 21 spline t-case, order your Klune with a 21 spline input (to mate up with your tranny) and a 23 spline output... Then swap in a bigger 23 spline input shaft into your NP231... If you have the funds, now would be a good time to get the heavier chain for the t-case too...

Now, to make room in your drive train, rip out that fan and shroud, stick in an electric fan and move your engine forward about 6 inches...

Dave

Putting a 4:1 in that drive train is like "a naked gay dude with 19" in a locked room with 4 horny ladies"

Something is going to break.

Seriously, 4:1 is not the upgrade you need right now.

Go suspension/Tires and front LR for now. Maybe a rear 44 if you can swing it.

Hopefully, I'm not like the guy that thought kpj had a Subaru DT.:rolleyes:

for those asking hes got
2.5/manual tranny/231/30/35c/4.10s
and hes a pretty good wheeler, knows not to just gas it(like a 4 banger would get anywhere anyway) :flipoff2: seth i think he is progressing quite nicely

Originally posted by mountain bronco

Used to be a 10spd bike was pretty styling, then 12spd the 15spd the 18spd then 21spd the 29spd.

How the fawk do you get a 29 speed bike? Considering 29 is a prime number I guess you have 29 cog rings on the wheel with 1 ring on the crank?

I want one ;)


Back to topic, I agree with OverTech, moving your engine forward will give you plenty of room for the Klune, and you got room with the 2.5L.

With that low of gearing though, those axles may not last long if you gas it in the wrong spot and get some traction all of a sudden.

Originally posted by OverTech
Second, a recommendation. If you have a 4-banger Jeep with a 21 spline t-case, order your Klune with a 21 spline input (to mate up with your tranny) and a 23 spline output... Then swap in a bigger 23 spline input shaft into your NP231... If you have the funds, now would be a good time to get the heavier chain for the t-case too...

Yup, that is what I was getting at above but I was thinking more along the lines of D300. It requires the 23 spline output and is up to the task of that gear reduction plus it needs no SYE cause it already has fixed yokes. If you follow Dave's advise you will be primed for a good setup, of course Dave allways gives good advise. Another thing, if you do get the 21 spline output you will be stuck with your 231 forever or be forced to buy another Klune. If you do get the 23 spline output you can run your 231 until you can afford to put a 300 in.


Now, to make room in your drive train, rip out that fan and shroud, stick in an electric fan and move your engine forward about 6 inches...

Dave

Not only is that an excellent solution to drivetrain angles it will also help load the front axle more for climbing, and that is a very good thing. :D


I am torn because I too think you should be on at least 33"s before you need to think about a Klune. You can't get over the trails that require that kind of gearing on 28"s or 30"s so it really doesn't matter.

Originally posted by JEEP_TJ_FREAK

Another thing, if you do get the 21 spline output you will be stuck with your 231 forever or be forced to buy another Klune. [/B]

Wrong! You can get any output shaft you want for ~$80.00+ shipping directly from Klune. The input is the one that "cannot" be changed, sorta, unless you talk REAL nice to Luke. ;) :cool: I used to run a 21 spline input and 23 spline output into a teralow'd 231 and now I am running a 23 spline input and a 32 spline output into my Atlas. :beer: :usa: :smokin:

Cool and $80 bucks isn't half bad either. How bad was the changeoever? You really don't see too many Klunes in the field.

Originally posted by RokHeep


Wrong! You can get any output shaft you want for ~$80.00+ shipping directly from Klune. The input is the one that "cannot" be changed, sorta, unless you talk REAL nice to Luke. ;) :cool: I used to run a 21 spline input and 23 spline output into a teralow'd 231 and now I am running a 23 spline input and a 32 spline output into my Atlas. :beer: :usa: :smokin:

But for that same $80, it's just as easy to get a new input shaft for the 231 to begin with... Then you have a stronger input shaft to help handle the added torque and you're set up for a D300 later on down the road...

Dave

I changed the input on my 231 to 23 spline, it was easy. Now with the motor in its stock location, and my 5spd tranny (also stock) I've been wheeling with the Klune since it was first made (I got 1 of the first 10 or so made) with a 16" rear CV Style drive shaft. Works great. it was less $$$ than an Atlas, and I have More gearing choices. The only that I don't have that an Atlas does is Front Wheel Drive only. I can do 2 Low in the rear at about 80:1, but I can also do 4 Low @ 40:1, 80:1, and 180:1. So suck my left nut.:flipoff2:

I've thought about a Klune, just wished they made an underdrive/overdrive in the same unit, with my 2.5l (I can't move it forward due to short nose CJ-5 clip on my YJ) SM420(7.05:1 first), NP231(2.72:1 low) without SYE Ive got a 21" rear shaft (9" rear adds a little too), I'm looking into a flipped Dana 300 (2.62:1 low), so add another 6", I've got plenty of room for the Klune, but do I really need a 400:1 low with a stock Dana 300 or a 600:1 low with a 4:1 300? I'm at 103:1 now (5.38 axles) and what I miss is overdrive.

Enough about my junk, I'd do some suspension work on yours before I'd run a Klune, and prolly lockers, although I kinda miss my open diffed axles, made everything a lot more challenging, makes you plan your moves a little more than having a "point and shoot" Jeep

hehe.. Atlas cost effective. not.. You gain 136% lower gears (2.72:1 vs 4.3:1) for what.. nearly $2,500 after potential tax?

You also get stuck with the gearing drawbacks/lack of options.

a Klune at $1,600, a 32 spline SYE, and 1310 CV around $600. At $2,200 you gain 750% lower gears. (2.72:1 vs 10.88:1)

Which on is more cost effective?

In my case.. I extend the frame out 6-8", get my wheelbase to 105" or so. and drop the klune in. Driveline is still ok length wise.

Originally posted by desertjeepin
I changed the input on my 231 to 23 spline, it was easy. Now with the motor in its stock location, and my 5spd tranny (also stock) I've been wheeling with the Klune since it was first made (I got 1 of the first 10 or so made) with a 16" rear CV Style drive shaft. Works great. it was less $$$ than an Atlas, and I have More gearing choices. The only that I don't have that an Atlas does is Front Wheel Drive only. I can do 2 Low in the rear at about 80:1, but I can also do 4 Low @ 40:1, 80:1, and 180:1. So suck my left nut.:flipoff2:

What are you running for axle's with your set up?

I know that I'm a year late, but what the hell I ran across this lookin for sumthin else and thought I'd chime in.....



Developed as a replacement for the Wrangler NP231 Tcase, this combo capitalizes on the early Bronco Dana 20 transfer case. Since this unit is Left Drop, and is only 10,5" long, it puts the front driveshaft on the correct (driver) side for a Jeep Wrangler, The assembled combo is 18.5 inches long, from the front mount surface to the center of the rear yoke (Where the center of the U-joint would be). This is about 3" shorter than the stock NP231 as used in a Wrangler, and is only about 1" longer than an NP231 with a slip yoke eliminator kit on it! It will bolt in where the stock NP231 Tcase comes out. It comes with 1310 CV type yokes, front and rear. It can be made to work with the factory Wrangler shifter, by extending the linkage rod.

Klune/Wrangler system comparisons:
Stock NP231: Typically 21"
NP231 with 32 spl Slip Yoke eliminator: 17"
Klune/NP231 with slip yoke eliminator: 23.5"
Klune/Atlas combo: 21.5"
Klune/Dana 300 Combo 19.5" or 21.5" depending on if D300 has short or long tail housing.
Klune/Bronco Dana 20 Combo: 17.5"

Of course you'll need bigger axles, they will break....

:flipoff2:

Originally posted by LordRatner
.............
BUT, I only threw this out as a possibility. Yes, I have open diffs, but not for long. I plan to put a rear locker in ASAP, no later than november. lift in december, sye and 4:1 in hopefully next month. I am pretty sure I will be sticking with the 4:1, but i wanted to check all options before proceeding.
................

:laughing: Sorry, had to. SO just how much of this has happened??:flipoff2: