Ok here we go, i am starting a big project for myself.
I am going to shorten my d60 front and a friends d44. I am planning to shorten them by removing the knuckle and choping the tube off and putting the knuckle back on. Does anything have to me machined? I am sure that they are by dana, but can it be done without machining? I know the knuckles don't come off easy, i have made a jig to pull them off, and another to turn them so that i can point the pinion up. Since d44's are cheap, i am going to do that one first and if it goes ok then i will do the 60.Are they made the same way? I am only woried about the 60,and if the work on the 44 goes smooth and if i repeat what i did should it work for the 60?

Thanks

P.S. you will most likely see more questions from me on this topic.

<IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0">

I know nothing about the 60, but as for the 44, no you don't have to machine anything, and the tough part is not pulling the inner knuckle off, but cutting/grinding through the weld without ruining the knuckle. It can be done though.

Originally posted by BillaVista:
<STRONG>I know nothing about the 60, but as for the 44, no you don't have to machine anything, and the tough part is not pulling the inner knuckle off, but cutting/grinding through the weld without ruining the knuckle. It can be done though.</STRONG>
I have taken a knuckle off of a 44 with a spun pinion housing, it was a little tricky, but i am not concerned about taking the knuckle off.

Thanks
Ian-

Nothing needs to be machined. I have done a few 60's and 44's and only the weight is the real difference between the 2. I cut the C off right down the C and then use a torch, a hammer, and chisel a to get out what is left in the C. After that I then cut the housing to length.

Another option that works well is to figure out the length that the tube needs to be and chop it off before you remove the knuckle. Then take the the knuckle and chunk of tube, chuck them up in a lathe and cut the weld out. Then just press the tube out and press the knuckle back onto the housing. This way there is very little chance of screwing up the knuckle.

As far as putting the knuckles back on, they just press on, no trick to it (though a little heat makes things much easier <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"> )

Thanks guys sounds great.
more complements are welcome.

I did the first 60 in the lathe and it takes longer to do but can be done. To press the C off takes a good press though.

Wasn't thinking for a second....it's tricky if yo do NOt want to shorten the tube (just turn the knuckle).

If you're shortening the tube, it's quite easy. As 66 said, cut off the knuckle flush, then grind down the back side a bit if there's any left, then stick a blade through the knuckle bore and cut the bit of tube still left in ther into 4 sections, then knock them out with a chisel.

Clean up your shortened tube a bit, and you can put the knuckle back on with a big hammer, no press required.

Sorry to jump in your post Complain but I am about to shorten a 60 myself and have a question that may benifit you also.

Is there any trick to assure that after you cut the knuckles off you put them back in the same spot to assure you do not have caster problems? I did a 60 already and just got lucky that the knuckle was put in the same place.

Any Ideas?? Thanks

Originally posted by TPI_Jeep:
<STRONG>Sorry to jump in your post Complain but I am about to shorten a 60 myself and have a question that may benifit you also.

Is there any trick to assure that after you cut the knuckles off you put them back in the same spot to assure you do not have caster problems? I did a 60 already and just got lucky that the knuckle was put in the same place.

Any Ideas?? Thanks</STRONG>

scribe a line on the knuckle and tube. Its just that easy

A question for those who say just cut the C off flush, what do use to cut it off??

i've done a couple myself and it's not to bad, i use an "angle finder" to ensure i get the knuckle back on correctly. this would be a good time to set your caster and pinion angle also.

also don't be afraid to use a big freaking hammer to persuade everything.
here's a link to one of my pages http://www.geocities.com/yj3qtr_ton/dana44front.html

Originally posted by NE-RokToy:
<STRONG>
A question for those who say just cut the C off flush, what do use to cut it off??</STRONG>

A portable band saw works great for this. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

I used a 14" chop saw to cut off the inner knuckle

BANDSAW, PROTRACTOR , WELDER , PATIENCE <IMG SRC="smilies/idea.gif" border="0">

Thanks again.

For those who asked about turning the knuckle, i am not taking it off to do that, i made a jig where i can use a hydraulic jack to do it.

I have another question for you guys, what kind of rod should i use to weld them back on i was guesing either a high nickel content rod, or 7018?
I don't have a strong enough mig welder.

Ian-

As stated before you need an angle finder befor you start cutting.

I used a 14" chop say to cut as flush to the bead as possible, maybe an 1/8" left, then used a grinder to remove the rest of the bead flush with the back side. Then used a angle grinder to taper the inside of the tube until the crack appeared all the way around (note factory got some serious penetration with those welds), if you have a press you can press remainder of tube out without sectioning it into pieces.

High nickel rod is not required, the knuckles are not cast iron or grey iron or even nodular. They are cast steel.

7018 will work well

if you scribe a good line on the knuckle and the tube it is easy to line back up. i cut the tube off with the "c" still on it (with a 14" chop saw)and then put the "c" with the remaining piece of tube in a vice and took to it with a grinder. once the weld was out an i could make out the ring where the tbe and "c" were separate i put it in a press and pressed the tube out. i then pressed the knuckles back on ensuring that my scribe lines matched and that was that other than sending the inner shafts to moser to have then cut and resplined and welding the "c's" back on.