Some guys I know were telling me that the t-cases can twist enough to rip the tranny housing off. There fix was a bracket that went from the t-case to frame rail where those 2 bolts connect that rod to the tranny. Would I be better off getting/making a solid tranny mount? I know I am getting some rotation as it is, I hear the front cv grinding cross member under heavy throttle(normally has 3/4inch clearance). The braket they are talking about seems like too much force on the weak frame of my blazer. Have you guys ever dealt with this?

Charlo

The T-case isn't twisting anything, the motor does all the twisting and the rest of the drivetrain just tries to resist it. I've seen a number of NP208's break the front of the transfer case or 205's break the back of the trans, or the adapter, usually they break one mounting ear on the adapter. Nearly all of these failures were due to faulty motor and trans mounts, the t-case hits the crossmember and the rest of the drivetrain wants to keep twisting, either the whole engine-trans-t-case combo flops over the passenger side frame rail, or something breaks. If your front shaft grinds under load, your mounts are probably shot. The early NP205's used a large rubber mount next to the front output that went directly to the frame, later 205's used a torque rod that bolted up in the same place. I've never heard of anyone breaking the frame with one of these mounts, but they will not make up for wore out motor mounts.

I used to chain-down the driver's side of my motor when my mounts got so bad that the clutch linkage would fall out onto the ground when I revved it up, usually followed by my rear driveshaft, or whatever tree was in front of me (the ultimate demise of that truck, pushed the clutch in to back up, the motor stumbled, so I revved her up and the linkage dropped at about 5 grand with the trans still in 2nd, talk about some whiplash, my 38's through some serious mud on the truck I was about to pull out for about six feet until I smucked the 36" Oak that was in front of me)

Thats kinda what I thought, This guy was trying to spin his 44s in 2nd gear on pavement when it happened to him, but he said he had seen it on several chevys. Ill just replace my mounts then, I wont have big power for a couple months anyways.

charlo

I know in my trucks I put a few extra "braces" on the "mounts" because with low gears and big HP they get moving around pretty good and you don't want that. Get some new "Poly" motor mounts from (energy suspension) and put 1 on tranny too. If it still moves a lot put a chain on the D-side mount with 1 "link" of slack that will solve your problems.....Good Luck

I used a two short chains with small turnbuckle and jam nuts in the middle, also, I attached the chain to some kind of funky old A/C bracket I had laying around that bolted up to the head, that way I had more leverage. I had to keep tightening mine, not sure why, maybe cuz teh truck was a heap, every time I pushed the clutch in the driver's door would pop open.

Yeah its prolly time I change my mounts, might as well go poly since I sell energy at my work. I always thought the twisting motion came from the t-case since my front cv rubs and my current mouse has no power. I guess even a 150 ponies @5500 rpm and compund low can twist a little. Well maybe its just the momentum when the tires finally grab. Hopefully my 383 will change things some.


Charlo

is this what u are talkin about

if you chain the motor from the driver side it should help tremondously.I have also seen people chain the drivers side of the motor(back of the head to the frame rail) and put a chain on the transfer case from the driver side to(better with cast housing like a 205)..The chain will definately reduce the twisting coming from the motor.If you mount the transmission solid ;but, do nothing to control the engine twisting you will break transmission housings more than likely..Good Luck.:D

From the pic it looks to me like a TH350 to a NP205, those factory adapter are notorious for cracking, I have two of them I pulled from parts trucks that had been welded by previous owners, and those were stock trucks. Unfortunately, GM doesn't make that part anymore, I bought one of the last new ones through my Chevy dealer for $300.00 about seven years ago. Strangely, no aftermarket adapters are available for such a common setup.

Originally posted by 4Bangler
From the pic it looks to me like a TH350 to a NP205, those factory adapter are notorious for cracking, I have two of them I pulled from parts trucks that had been welded by previous owners, and those were stock trucks. Unfortunately, GM doesn't make that part anymore, I bought one of the last new ones through my Chevy dealer for $300.00 about seven years ago. Strangely, no aftermarket adapters are available for such a common setup.

strange indeed since the th400/205 adapter is still available..Ever thought of making one out of cold steel instead of cast? Works much better..Just my two cents.:D