: 4L60E not going into gear after rebuild??
jims4x4 02-23-2008, 04:29 PM Heres the deal,My tranny guy is outta town so I cannot get a hold of him to ask so here we go.
2001 4L60E out of a Silverado,I am also using the 5.3 from the same truck so they came together.I had the tranny rebuilt along with installing the Novak shaft/adapter to mate to my Atlas,all went well with the rebuild(supposedly),new converter new hd internals.I filled the TC ,put it on the input shaft ,felt my engagement,installed it into the truck bolted the TC to the flywheel,put the atlas on ,filled the system to proper levels,started it up and nothing,you can feel the shifter clicking into each gear and when you put it into gear nothing.With all the whhels on jack stands you can put it in park and it locks the pawl like it should,Put it in rev or drive and you feel resitance ,put in neutral and wheels spin freely.Start the motor and shift it in rev or drive and nothing.Any ideas before I pull this sucker back out???If the TC slipped off the input shaft when I was mating the tranny to the motor wouldn't I at least hear a grinding or something?
Grumpy_old_fart 02-23-2008, 04:57 PM Heres the deal,My tranny guy is outta town so I cannot get a hold of him to ask so here we go.
2001 4L60E out of a Silverado,I am also using the 5.3 from the same truck so they came together.I had the tranny rebuilt along with installing the Novak shaft/adapter to mate to my Atlas,all went well with the rebuild(supposedly),new converter new hd internals.I filled the TC ,put it on the input shaft ,felt my engagement,installed it into the truck bolted the TC to the flywheel,put the atlas on ,filled the system to proper levels,started it up and nothing,you can feel the shifter clicking into each gear and when you put it into gear nothing.With all the whhels on jack stands you can put it in park and it locks the pawl like it should,Put it in rev or drive and you feel resitance ,put in neutral and wheels spin freely.Start the motor and shift it in rev or drive and nothing.Any ideas before I pull this sucker back out???If the TC slipped off the input shaft when I was mating the tranny to the motor wouldn't I at least hear a grinding or something?
check the fluid level. *I know, you said it was filled to the proper level. you cant fill it to the proper level until the engine is running and you cant determine the proper level until the trans has been run through the gears.
check to see if you put the converter bolts in.
if they are in, remove the bolts and check to see that it spins freely and moves back and forth. reinstall bolts if it does spin freely. if not, remove the trans and replace the pump.
thats a start.
tunedportcj5 02-23-2008, 06:01 PM Bad pump or converter. You could have cracked the pump if you didn't have the converter fully seated when it was installed.
jims4x4 02-23-2008, 06:12 PM guess I ll pull the tranny and see thanks all
JK080 02-23-2008, 08:10 PM Too check to see if the pump is working check the level of trans fluid with the engine off then with the engine running, it should lower with the engine running.
Also you could unhook a coolerline or the pressure port plug, start the engine, makes a big mess, then pump is working.
If you have at least 8 quarts in the trans the pump should create pressure.
Breaking the pump gear because of not having the converter all the way in happens often. My shop just repaired one this week.
the_experience3006 02-24-2008, 05:45 AM I'd start with the simple stuff myself. Is the TCM commanding a shift? The transmission isn't going to do much if there is an issue electronically. The PRNDL/Neutral Safety Switch on those can bring teh suck. Being that you have the 5.3 as well I'm ASSuming you have the factory computer in there. If so I would suspect you have the factory ALDL in there. Find someone with a good scan tool (not just a code puller) and get them to command a shift and listen for the solenoids clicking. Unfortunately you will probably have to pull the pan to hear for sure, but it still beats pulling the whole tranny for what MIGHT be a simple problem.
lumpdog 02-24-2008, 08:28 AM First off, the 4l60e has full manual reverse and third gear, so without any electronics it will move forward and backwards. So that eliminates anything electronic.
Two things that I would say happened.
First and most likely, you jammed the converter and broke the pump, for some reason I see it alot with the full circle bell housing trans. Like was stated before, check the fluid level with the engine off and running, if there is not a significant difference then your pump is not pumping.
Next thing I have seen, but not often is a shop forgetting to put the plastic inline filter in the pump, this in essence dumps the fluid back into the pan right after the pump.
But my money is on a jammed converter broken pump, even thought I know it sucks.
the_experience3006 02-24-2008, 05:50 PM First off, the 4l60e has full manual reverse and third gear, so without any electronics it will move forward and backwards. So that eliminates anything electronic.
:homer:
You, sir, are correct. I just hate to assume the worst first, but you're probably right.
lumpdog 02-25-2008, 07:54 AM My point is nothing electrical can cause the concern he is having, so your advice was simply wrong.
Maybe you should have him check to see if the driveline was reinstalled in the truck too...HAHAHA!!
the_experience3006 02-26-2008, 09:52 AM My point is nothing electrical can cause the concern he is having, so your advice was simply wrong.
:shaking: And I got your point and corrected myself after thinking about that one a little more. The point of my post was that before he digs into it he should maybe check for the obvious stuff. You know...run down a check list and actually DIAGNOSE the problem instead of just assuming something and throwing parts at it. Now the electrical thing may not have been correct, but neither is telling him his converter jammed the pump without actually taking the time to diagnose the problem. Would you replace an entire EVAP system because you got a code on it? No, you'd take the time to diagnose it and check the simple stuff first like a gas cap sealing surface that is chewed up a little. That was the point of my post.
*edit* Oh yeah...HAHAHA!!!! :shaking:
lumpdog 02-26-2008, 03:45 PM :shaking: And I got your point and corrected myself after thinking about that one a little more. The point of my post was that before he digs into it he should maybe check for the obvious stuff. You know...run down a check list and actually DIAGNOSE the problem instead of just assuming something and throwing parts at it. Now the electrical thing may not have been correct, but neither is telling him his converter jammed the pump without actually taking the time to diagnose the problem. Would you replace an entire EVAP system because you got a code on it? No, you'd take the time to diagnose it and check the simple stuff first like a gas cap sealing surface that is chewed up a little. That was the point of my post.
*edit* Oh yeah...HAHAHA!!!! :shaking:
It's cool, I just hate seeing people go through left field when looking for a problem. And I didn't just say he jammed the pump, I gave another explanation as well, try to re-read the thread.
Your EVAP analogy makes sense, your trans diagnosis does not. Can't compare apples to oranges. Wouldn't you say checking to see if the fluid level drops on the stick an easy check? Much easier than rounding up a scan tool?
Anyways, I'm done with it.
Hijack over.
Any update on this, Jims4x4?
Filthy McChevy 02-26-2008, 03:50 PM I am still waiting to read if it had enough transmission fluid in it. :shaking:
jims4x4 02-27-2008, 04:12 AM well we found a cracked pump so another bad converter install.plenty of fluid by the way:flipoff2:
lumpdog 02-27-2008, 11:29 AM Well, I always hate to see that, but it's good you found the problem.
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