92 f-350

New calipers, rotors, pads on the front. New shoes and drums out back. New brake booster and master cylinder. bled all lines, double and triple checked everything... Still no fawking brake pedal...?? What in the hell am I missing?:homer:

when you did the rears, did you adjust them out with a spoon first? And also, with the new m/c, did you bench bleed it first? What kind of shape are the rubber lines in? Not sure if you can do this on these trucks, but are your calipers on the correct side? upside down bleeders don't work. I'm sure you've checked all of this stuff, just covering the bases though.

Yeah man, I have checked and double checked everything... I am missing something that will jump out and smack me soon. Its just frustrating.
Anyways, Thanks for the input.


LMFAO...
Side thought

Free to a good home, 92 f350... I will even potty train it...:shaking:

Ill take it off ur hands for a small fee..... Have you done any kind of process of elimination with each branch of the brakes? Like tried blocking off the rears at the m/c, then testing, repeating with the front ect?

New calipers, rotors, pads on the front. New shoes and drums out back. New brake booster and master cylinder. bled all lines, double and triple checked everything... Still no fawking brake pedal...?? What in the hell am I missing?:homer:

Any chance you could have gotten a mc with the wrong length rod? If its full and bled, with no leaks, the only way I could figure that you wouldn't be seeing any hydraulic pressure was if the stroke was off on the mc/booster.

x2 on what pro said. I had that problem with my hydo. clutch once.

Pro, I checked the shaft length and I am getting fluid movement at 3/8's of an inch... Just no pressure, the pedal just goes straight to the floor. I am thinking that I have a pinched or cut line somewhere. The brake booster is holding vacuum, I checked the vac lines and they are all good. I am going to start going through all the hard lines to see if I can find a fawked line or something.

<~~~~~~~~~(( Scratching head on this one...??:homer: ))

Ill take it off ur hands for a small fee..... Have you done any kind of process of elimination with each branch of the brakes? Like tried blocking off the rears at the m/c, then testing, repeating with the front ect?

Yeah man, I have tried everything. I think maybe I did something out of order. I am going back to square one. I am going to check over everything again, maybe I can find what i am missing.

Thanks guys.:smokin:

hmmm....


try and re-bleed the master...

other than that...you've gotta have air in it SOMEWHERE...

that job SUCKS BTW...I made a pressure bleed kit for doing brakes...use a spare MC cap..drill a hole..put a airhose connector on it..turn the air down to 15PSI and hook it to the MC...and start bleedin it all over again...stop every so often and fill the MC back up...

works GREAT!!..1man brake bleed!!:smokin:

Thats sounds like one hell of an idea. I will look into it.

Well, I am off to try and figure this out.... Thanks again.:smokin:

Try blocking off the rears at the master cyl. If you have pedal after this I'm guessing it's the RABS valve. Ford trucks in the 90's had a rear anti lock system. The valve is on the left frame rail under the cab, they stick with age and can cause this problem. You can buy a new one or I've seen folks just bypass it with a length of brake line. HTH

That was my next idea in line if that didnt pan out. I've read about that shit system too....

Re-bench bleed the master in place. I suppose you don't have any issues with the pedal attachment point and fulcrum bushings? The rear ABS valve sounds like a logical point of concern. Whenever you void the system of normal residual pressure, various components with specific functions can rear their ugly head by not shifting as expected.

How did you fill the front calipers with fluid? The biggest problem I've seen with restoring brakes is replacement of front calipers. The air that gets ingested in the system during this process is very difficult to remove due to the proportioning valve giving priority to the rear portion of the system. This is why Ford advised to overide the proportioning valve during bleeding of the 70's series brakes. I have no idea whether that still applies on the 90's brakes, but what I would suggest is to leave the bleed screws open and the prop valve pulled out(or otherwise overidden) until you get fluid gravity flowing out of both front calipers. Once decent pressure is restored under normal pedal stroke, bleeding should be much more effective.

Pressure bleeding is definitely the best way to ensure the entire system is full and void of air if you can facilitate that.

did you bleed the ABS?

prop valve?

You guys are awesome. I am beat tired right now, But I got to thinking about wanderer post and I am working on a pressure bleeder.:smokin: I also didnt think to bleed the damn abs. I will get back at this tomorrow.

THANK YOU, for all the ideas, there are a couple now that I missed.

if the truck has rear abs only - there is no special procedure -
with the calipers dry it is best to let them gravity bleed alittle - make sure the MC is full and open the bleaders a little - this will get most of the air out - close them when fluid starts to leak -
it is best to start at the furthest point from the MC - the right rear then left rear - then the front right - left -
then bleed in that order untill the petal come back - you may have to do this a few times -
if the petal is still low - adjust the rear brakes up a little - ( or pinch off the rear brake line and check - then it will tell you the rears are out of adj )

92 should still be RABS, I dont think 4wabs came until late 93/94. good luck bleeding 4wabs if you got air in there.

You dont have the calipers on backwards with the bleeders facing down do you?

No, I got it fixed. It was the rabs unit. Started from scratch and traced the problem to the rabs valve/ solenoid...?? Couldnt bleed past it. Cut the fawker out and replaced it with hard line, and a flare kit from autozone. Bled from passenger rear wheel towards the front. Have brake pressure again.

Thank you for the people that offered input to my problem.

You all need a :beer::beer:

Sureee right when I post you fix it!

LMAO, No worries... You can have a beer too.

Ok, I am stumped now. Thought I had this all wired out. Driving today and now I have a new problem... Thinking its related.

Driving under normal conditions and all of a sudden I have a pop in my brake pedal. Truck stops fine with light pedal pressure, But if I push hard I get a pop and pedal goes to the floor...??

I traced it to the RABS last time, worked good for a few days and now its back.

Except for the fact that it stops fine as long as I dont push to hard on the pedal. Maybe the shaft from the booster is hanging up on the cylinder.? Maybe the master cylinder is fawked.? Could I be missing something simple.?

Thanks in advance, sorry for bringing back a dead thread.....