:confused: I am trying to remove a rather stubern set of spring pins on my fj--60. Have tryed everything from 2 days of penetrating oil, to a 3lb sledge with pry bar on flange of spring pin. Can't cut it with sawzall !!! Its hardend. No room to insert small screw driver along pin to inject lube !!!!!!!!!! What the ?????
Short of a plasma cutter I am out of ideas. Hopfully somone can make me look like a dumb ass and give me the quick fix.:smokin:

If your replacing the bushings(which you should) burn the old ones out with a torch

Use the legendary "Blue Tipped Wrench".
AKA "Flaming Hacksaw"
Butch

Yeah, I just burn them out too, but beware of the black smoke, which will give you the black lung!! Open the garage door and let em burn!

Jeff

When I was changing out my suspension on my 60, I had the same problem. What I did was this. I heated up the spring itself using a torch, and I used a very large set of channel locks to twist the pin back and forth while pulling on it with the plyers. I also used a pickle fork to pry it loose.

Originally posted by texican

AKA "Flaming Hacksaw"
Butch

Hay was'nt that guy the mass murder in the bay area in the early 80's:question: :rainbow: :flipoff2: :rainbow: :flipoff2: :rainbow:


I am with Butch on this one, bust out the torch and BBQ some bushings!

You guys are serious about burning them out? I have gotten even the most stubborn ones out with a little tool I cooked up one night with a few too many beers. Here is the scoop:

Get a $10 hyraulic bottle jack from kragen, one with about 4" throw and a pad that screws out.

Now get a piece of about 3/4" pipe(the heavier wall the better). Length will depend on whether you want front or back. I made one for the back.

Find a piece of 1"x1" scrap plate, probably 1/4". Drill a 9/16" recess in it about 1/16" inch deep. I did not have a bit this big so I too a grinder and kind of made a concave surface on one side.

Measeure the distance between the ends of the studs on the inside of the spring hangers. Subtract the height of the jack compressed with the pad screwed out about 1". Subtract another 1/4" for the pad. This will give the length of pipe needed with a bit of room for tweaked frames etc.

Now weld the pipe to the pad being careful to keep it aligned with the plane of the screw pad and jack extension. Weld the small 1"x1" pad on the other end of the pipe with the concave surface out.

Let it cool.

Undo the nuts inside the hanger and the small bolts on the outside. Lift the new tool up inside the framerails and line up with the studs on the sspring hanger pins. While holding it up, screw out the pad and pipe to put the end of the pipe/plate against the spring pin. Make sure the bottom of the jack is against the pin on the otherside. The jack works best with the pump part on the bottom with the handle parallel to the ground.

crank away and POP!, it will come out about 1"and then it is easy to grab with pliers or pickle fork and get it all the way out. It takes minutes instead of hours to get them out. Spray the hell out of them with penetrant before you press them out.

I know it must be hard to visualize the tool, so I will post pics once I get home this afternoon. You may have to move the driveshaft...

Brett wrote:

"weld pipe a to plate b with jack x...."

I use the torch on 40, 55, and 60 series.

45 pick up and wagon have a cast body for rear springs which I bought a $7 puller and modified to catch the casting and press out the pin. Unlike the stamped 40/60 series, if the pin gets deformed it's stuck. Also, since the ring fittings for the outside are discontinued (there are no set bolts) one must be gentle wth them and not use channel locks etc. Heat helps, but hammering to start the pin can be foooked.