Look I know there are a bunch of threads on this topic but.....They are not specific and always turn into well I would.....or I think you can..... I would like to hear from some people who have actually DONE this to their rigs..Yes im a newbie to the site but not the hobby.

1980 cj7 SOA ...I recently scored a 78 waggy dana44 and want to slap it under the front end...I know I could outboard the springs But I am wanting to know if anyone has swapped this w/o outboarding the springs. I know the inner c has to be cut , housing trimmed and new axle shaft made ( long side).
1. what kind of money are we talking for a new shaft being made?
2.If I convert the hub back to 5x5.5 can I use the waggy stubby shafts?
3. Steering without flattop knuckles???
4.last are all the internals ie carriers the same spline count?

thanks...

If you don't want to outboard your springs, you're better off getting a Chevy or Dodge(non cad) Dana 44. They both already have the spring perch on top for the SOA. Just shorten the long side ~4" and slap a waggy shaft in it. You also will already have a driver's flat top knuckle tapped for high-steer, which you need.

I recently did this to mine using a Dodge axle I picked up for $100.

The Dodge is already 5x5.5 but they say the knuckles are weaker than the Chevys. If you want to swap the 6 lug to 5 lug you can do it pretty easy with Waggy/Chevy and F-150 parts. There's a ton of info on this.

Good luck:beer:

I have the waggy front in my 83 CJ7, but I did outboard the springs, wasn't a big deal. I did the shackle reversal at the same time.
If you decide to go that way, use the inner waggy shafts and chevy outers. Ford 150 spindles and hubs for the 5x5.5
You do not need to rotate the Cs for steering to be stable, I don't remember what degree I set it to, but if you want to run the CV driveshaft . . .
I ran the stock waggy links until I went high steer.

It is a good swap for a CJ if you don't want to be full width.

Just my $.02 but outboarding the springs seems like less work than narrowing the housing, plus then you can use stock replacement parts.

If you don't want to outboard your springs, you're better off getting a Chevy Dana 44. They both already have the spring perch on top for the SOA. Just shorten the long side ~4" and slap a waggy shaft in it. You also will already have a driver's flat top knuckle tapped for high-steer, which you need:

i went to this route becuase i would like to be able to have the maximum turning radius with 36's whitout have the tires rub in the springs

and use a waggy rear stock rear it end a little wider than stock waggy 44 but my turning radious its great and i still have 1 free between tire and spring package

i have re-set the caster to stock CJ
and put a J20 passenger Knuckle to put high steering arms
when i build my front axle

actually i could drive all day long at 60 miles , no steering stabilizer , and its pretty stable , vib free

Ok I have done both outboard and not. I started not outboarded and cut down the axle. I regreted it and ended up outboarding and leaving the axle full width. Here is why.

1. SOA raises the COG alot. Stock NT Waggy Dana 44's are 62" width. That gives you alot more width to make up for the added height.
2. As mentioned if you plan on running big tires you will need the added width to not hit the springs with you tires.
3. Outboarding gives you more stability.
4. Finding a matching rear for you cut down Dana 44 is difficult.

not really, a cab and chassis 14 bolt is 63" wide so get a chevy 44, narrow 4", use waggy longside and 8 lug outers. gives you the same distance between springs and wms as stock chevy, bolts into cj and front is 65" wms. perfect combo for a mid grade build. o and shave the 14 bolt and you can get 4.10's factory so you don't have to regear if you have good tranny or tcase gears