Ok, on my CJ 5 (SOA with stock springs), I need to move the rear axle back about 2" to keep the tires from hitting the bulkhead. My though would be to weld onto the existing perch a piece of 1/4" plate 6" long. On top of that, weld another piece of 1/4" plate 8" long with a hole drilled for the center pin off-set 2" from the center. My questions:
1. Is a 1/4" deep hole enough for the center pin?
2. Will this set up be strong enough?
3. Would this set up also help with axle wrap?
4. Could it actually be this easy?

Thanks :D

Why the second 8" plate? I'd just drill the offset hole in the the first plate, and if you want to get really fancy, drill two holes, one centered, one with your offset, then stick a cut-donw center pin int the center hole and weld it in. Grind the weld down, located the pin in your spring pad, and weld 'er up, or just bolt it all together, I don't think it would move, but maybe a coulpe short beads just to be safe. The longer spring pad will help axle wrap a little. Yup, just that easy, oh, and you'll have to oblongthe center hole in your u-bolt plate too.

check your gas tank clearance

Good call, I was thinking early CJ-5 (I'm alway thinking about early CJ-5's, or this chick that works in my building, but that's another story) if you've got the rear tank that's a big concern, cuz there's not much clearance in the first place, especially if you're running a large rear axle. You could alway open up that false filler indent in the side of the body and switch to the ejector seat gas tank, those are cool.

Thanks guys.

My thought about the second plate is this. My existing perch is only about 4" long, so I can't drill a hole in that one. The 1st plate will allow the hole to fit, but will have nothing strengthing it. It will just be cantilevered out there. So, use the 1st plate to strengthen the second plate with the hole in it. Make sense?

I will have to take a look at the gas tank. I don't think its a problem as its already raised up 2" (flush with the bottom of the tub, 2" body lift).

Check out MORE. They have some center pin relocating brackets that may work for you. They ahve two different optoins on the same plate, something like 3/4" and 1.5 ". I don"t know if the width is right though.

It seems to me that your suggested set up would increase spring wrap in some respects. Sure, the long plate would reduce wrap some, it may also reduce sping compression. Depends upon how flexible your current springs are. Moving the axle away from the center of the spring would increase leverage on the spring. The center of the rotational torque (the axle) would be moved away from the strongest point on the spring. The spring may not be able to react the same to wrap up.
On forward take off, the pinion raises up, the now longer front of the spring is a little stiffer against wrap, but the back half is also weaker, trying to pull apart the leaves.
On reverse torque, with the pinion diving, the wrap up would become much more pronounced, although the longer perches may help.
I dont know, I may just be blowing sh!t out my a$$:rolleyes:
Try it out, but I think a set of custom springs, with offset center pins may be a better solution.

I have the MORE offset plates, 1" and 3/4", very similar to what I described above, a welded in center pin, with holes drilled on either side. XJ Cherokee rear springs are offset, 2.75" and are 51.5" long, you could relocate your front spring hanger and move your shackle mount back and end up with a sweet long-ass spring in the rear, but if you went through all of that trouble, you could just move your existing spring back 2"

Driveshaft length???

I don't know how long CJ5 springs are, but what about the Waggoneer springs every body seems to be using on YJs. If the CJ springs are close to the same length as a YJ spring, just address the difference in widths and run the Waggys.