It's a shame, I know. :D

I should've taken some pics last night..

Finally re-re-measured for my front 'shaft on the race rig.

First off, recall I thought i had "a little slip" showing still the last time I replaced the t'case and sucked the suspension to the stops.

Turns out, with the shaft on the floor fully collapsed, I still have "that much" spline showing. D'oh.

Collapsed, my front 'shaft measures, from outside of cap to cap, 25.5" long.

With the front susp sucked down almost to the bump stops (the springs hadn't quite gone negative yet) I measured 25" from the backside of both yokes.

Meaning the 'shaft is 1/2" too long right there.. let alone any extra room for "serious" tweakage..

No wonder I broke the transfercase.

OK, so I put my floor jack between the spring and frame on one side, and the Hi-Lift between the axle and shock hoop on the other and lift it until the shackles are getting close to in-line with the springs..

I measure 30" outside of cap to cap. Should add a little extra for REALLY pushing on things.. but at least with a Hi-Lift under the bump at "just the tires pulling down" droop it only measures out to 29/29.5"

I was looking at the springs and thinking, "I could probably beat Hooper on the poser-ramp if I cut those spring clamps..."

'cept, the 'shaft is a 6.5" "long travel" from Tom Wood's.

25" comp, 30" ext is 5" of slip.. not much extra.

I think I'm going to try having it cut down another 3/4" (on top of the 1" I removed the last time)

Giving me a collapsed length of 24.75" - just 1/4" shorter than I think I need.

And a "not getting wobbly/ feels good" extended length of 30.75" - I'll still have about 3/8" more before the splines actually come out of the slip.

I'll just HOPE the front suspension doesn't give enough extra to use up more than the 1/4" extra stuff I'm giving it..

And as long as the clamps stay in place, I shouldn't exceed 30" or so, so I should be OK..

How long are Jessie's longer-slip shafts? I don't mean the "24 inch slip" stuff..

I thought about one of those, but everything I've read says, "Heavy, not for high RPM operation"

Well.. 5300rpm, 4.88 gears, 31s.. that's "high RPM", right? (it also works out to about 100mph.. )

So if, after this 'shaft bob operation I break another t'case, I'm going to have to find someone that can provide me with a "high RPM" 8" travel shaft..

Then I might cut the clamps and pose with Hooper.. 'course I'll probably still have to add limiting straps to stop from over-extending the shocks then...

-Tom

Originally posted by tsm1mt
It's a shame, I know. :D


Hey I wrote a song about it... like hear it .. here it go

I got the drive shaft blues......
OH yeah, I got the drive shaft blues
Been wheelin all-day-long
my slips to short..
and the shaft to loooong
........
I got the drive shaft blues:D:D:D

Jesse runs an ~ 13" slip course spline dealio...



I have 19" of slip on mine:D :flipoff2: Although, I only use about 8 or 9" of that

BUMP STOPS

ok, is that enought said...


Some serious bumps tops are ALLOT cheaper than all the adapters and t-case's you've gone through..... plus all the time.


Stop make the stops hit about 1" from bottoming, that will allow for compresion of the stop.


Then put a strap on it for extention to not pull out.


who cares about travel if you toss shafts or blow off t-cases

:rolleyes: Even the top dog race rigs limit travel to the extents of what componats can take it...

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
BUMP STOPS

ok, is that enought said...


Some serious bumps tops are ALLOT cheaper than all the adapters and t-case's you've gone through..... plus all the time.



I *have* some "serious" bump stops.. at least they haven't been destroyed yet. :D

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/6_11_2002/pic04.jpg

They're just not very "tall"..

I thought about lowering them to keep the pitman arm from hitting the springs when I land, too.. but why sacrifice the wheel travel? I changed the pitman arm and draglink out instead..



Stop make the stops hit about 1" from bottoming, that will allow for compresion of the stop.


My stops don't compress that much. They're steel impregnated rubber.

The stock frame mounts for the bump stops do give a little though. :D


Then put a strap on it for extention to not pull out.


That's probably going to happen.


who cares about travel if you toss shafts or blow off t-cases


You're right. Gotta finish the race before you can win.

But I want my cake and to eat it, too.

A longer-travel driveshaft would cure my problem.. and then I could cut the spring clamps and get that much more droop - which means that much more up-travel when landing to slow down the 700lbs 304.

So.. if I can't make this setup work, I'll be looking to order a longer travel front 'shaft that'll hold up to the speed.

Maybe aluminum? :D

Er.. wait.. any more droop and I'll probably just tear up U-joints.. never mind. :D

Update. Everything was fine throughout 2002 (until we lost the engine right after this post was started).. rebuilt the engine, went out again in Feb (2x), May (3 days), June, and then September... but in September it failed me again.

The banzai jump on my hot-lap broke the transfercase.. AGAIN.

That's about six times too many.

My new Woody ships tomorrow.

Goodbye 6.5" stroke...

Hello 14"

21" collapsed c-to-c, 35" extended.. about 3" more in either direction than I thought I needed.

Hopefully my problem will be behind me now, and I can get back to flogging the poor Scout. :D

No more zerks in the cross to tear off at full droop, either.

Tom's new U-joints have the zerk in the cap. Easier to grease, AND I can't pinch it apart at full droop.

What about those little nitrogen charged bump stops? give you 4 inches or so of bump stop but still gives you a little travel.

Originally posted by binderbound
What about those little nitrogen charged bump stops? give you 4 inches or so of bump stop but still gives you a little travel.

I'd really like some, but I'd prefer to not pay for them. :D

They're a little spendy.

Doubled up shocks are ahead of them in the budget..

Sheesh. This was an OLD thread you resurrected Tom!!!

I'm with Rusty. Bumpstops and stiffer shocks.... Slow that momentum down so it doesn't compress the springs as far....

BTW, Rusty beat me on the poser ramp this year by a good amount.... :( He has the longer springs on, and it makes a difference.... My springs were fully negative on stuff, and the shackle was pretty much inline with the springs on droop, so I think I have pretty much maxed out the springs.

I never could understand your fascination with making that thing fly though.... ;)

Originally posted by Hooper
Sheesh. This was an OLD thread you resurrected Tom!!!


Well, I was trying to find my measurements I'd taken back-then so I knew what I needed to change.. and since I lost a HDD, I... *gasp*.. used the SEARCH BUTTON. :D


I'm with Rusty. Bumpstops and stiffer shocks.... Slow that momentum down so it doesn't compress the springs as far....


I've slowed it down. The shocks (Bilsteins now) do a fine job of it - I can REALLY tell when I rip a shock mount off. :D :D

But slowing it down and STOPPING it are two different things.. and jumping a Scout just involves a lot of weight. ;)



I never could understand your fascination with making that thing fly though.... ;)

Let me take you for a ride....

Originally posted by tsm1mt


Well, I was trying to find my measurements I'd taken back-then so I knew what I needed to change.. and since I lost a HDD, I... *gasp*.. used the SEARCH BUTTON. :D



I've slowed it down. The shocks (Bilsteins now) do a fine job of it - I can REALLY tell when I rip a shock mount off. :D :D

But slowing it down and STOPPING it are two different things.. and jumping a Scout just involves a lot of weight. ;)




Let me take you for a ride....

Umm, sorry, I am a married man.... ;)

But, one of these days I will take your passenger seat for a spin or two... ;)